tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41189603436608612312024-03-13T13:30:04.644-04:00SV Cool RunningsThe Adventures of a Sailing FamilyDavid Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11564117309719105455noreply@blogger.comBlogger212125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-20284218806845578002018-07-09T22:08:00.000-04:002018-07-09T22:08:06.194-04:00The HomecomingWell, I’ve tried to stretch it out for as long as I can, but before it becomes irrelevant, here is the final Cool Runnings journey blog post! OK…maybe I can squeeze in one more a few months down the line to let you all know how the “after cruising” life is, but for now, here’s our recollection of our homecoming.<br />
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When we left Venice on that Friday morning, June 9th, I think we all had our own thoughts about our final homecoming. Well, the kids were still sleeping, so they were not thinking anything at the time, but we had certainly talked about it in days prior! We all clearly remembered the stress of leaving back in 2016, and sailing under John’s Pass Bridge, knowing it would be a long time before we would be doing that again. And now that time was here. In a few hours we would be asking the bridge to open for us once more, letting us return to our dock.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving our dock in April 2016, Ben and Gaby contemplate what's about to happen. John's Pass Bridge opens for us and our journey begins. Now it was coming to a close.</td></tr>
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Thinking back to the places we’d visited, the people we’d met, new friends we’d made and old friends we’d reconnected with, and the thousands and thousands of sea miles we’d covered, we knew that a new (old) life awaited us, and we would be leaving this one behind. But the experiences and memories were ours to keep, forever in our hearts and minds.<br />
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The wind was light, and the sun was shining. We slowly edged our way up the coast and familiar landmarks came into view. The most significant was the Sunshine Skyway. This landmark bridge connects Pinellas and Manatee Counties, spanning 4.1 miles (6.6km) across Tampa Bay. It has a clearance of 180ft (55 meters), so it is a bridge I quite happily go under, knowing that we have plenty of clearance with our 70 foot mast! It is a cable-stayed bridge which has two towers (or pylons), from which cables support the bridge deck. The cables run directly from the tower to the deck of the bridge, forming a fan-like pattern, and making it a very unique, and well-recognized landmark. The cables on the Skyway are painted yellow, further owing to the name, the Sunshine Skyway. We are very proud of our bridge, especially since the Travel Channel rated the Sunshine Skyway number 3 in its special on the "Top 10 Bridges" in the World! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailing under the Skyway at dusk a few days before we left in 2016 and our first view as we sailed home in June 2018</td></tr>
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As we slowly sailed past the Skyway, we soon spotted our next most visited spot…Egmont Key. This island was our weekend getaway. Ever since we have owned a boat in Florida, we’ve spent weekends and many holidays anchored off Egmont Key, enjoying exploring the island and its beaches. Egmont Key is a Florida State Park and the Egmont Key Lighthouse and the ruins of Fort Dade, a Spanish–American War era fort, are located on the island. Sailing past it now brought back so many memories, and it felt like we had just been there yesterday!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailing past Egmont Key island with its historic lighthouse just visible against the light sky</td></tr>
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We had just spotted the Don Cesar hotel, also known as “The Pink Hotel”, when we heard someone hailing “Cool Runnings” on the radio! We answered, not knowing who it was, nor seeing another vessel close by. Turns out it was the first of our welcoming committee!!! Jeff and John, both residents of Normandy Road where we live, had come out on Jeff’s boat to greet us and welcome us home! John, who lives two doors down, has been a wonderful support to Dave’s parents while we’ve been gone, routinely cutting and edging our lawn, cutting back out of control plants and checking on everyone, especially during the harrowing 2017 hurricane season. And now he and Jeff were the first to officially welcome us home! They came along side, and tossed us two cold Budweiser beers! Thank you, John, for your help in keeping the home fires burning, and to both you and Jeff for taking the time to come out and meet us!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeff and John welcome us with a cold beer!</td></tr>
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After a short chat across the water, they returned home and we continued sailing. We were taking our time, slowly sailing along because we were waiting for Dave’s mom, Rosemary, to finish work, and make her way down to John’s Pass Bridge so she could watch us sail in. We took this time to string up all our flags of all the countries we’d visited and hoisted them up the back of the boat. We were getting ready for our grand entrance!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stringing together all the country courtesy flags and flying them off the stern</td></tr>
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We could see a typical Florida afternoon thunderstorm forming on the horizon, but we were so excited about getting home, we didn’t pay it much attention. The weather was still good, and we had our full sails up. Our canvases were rolled up and our country flags were flying. Before long, our second welcoming committee boat came out to see us! This time, it was Mike Auton, who lives a few roads down from us, and had been following our journey on our blog. He came out on his sailboat to greet us. We were busy waving and shouting hello, when I distinctly remember Dave shouting to Mike, “Looks like we might get a bit of a storm”, pointing to the dark clouds on the horizon.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike sails past us, and takes some photos of us. I do believe that is quite a storm brewing on the horizon!</td></tr>
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<br />By now we had received word from Dave’s mom that she was at the bridge, so it was time to come in. It was almost within minutes of getting ready to hail the bridge for an opening, that the first wind hit us. It was so fast, and so strong, it took us totally by surprise! While Dave managed the boat in the strong wind, I radioed the bridge and asked if he could open up for us. The answer was negative. The wind was so strong, that it was not safe for the bridge to open! We watched the wind instruments reading the wind strength…20 knots…25 knots…30 knots…it just kept rising! We were way overpowered with our full main and jib. We had to put a reef in the mainsail. Dave pointed the boat into the wind, and once again we were crashing up and down as we faced directly into the wild waves. We also had to watch the depth…soon our depth alarm was going off! 5 feet of water…we were about to run aground!! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This series of shots from the GoPro tries to capture the waves</td></tr>
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Our safest course of action was to sail away from the bridge and the entrance channel to John’s Pass. Our friends and family waiting on shore, also being buffeted by the strong winds, had to watch us sail away! We were so close, but we had to turn around! On board Cool Runnings, our country flags were being shredded, and with our canvases up, we were being soaked by waves crashing into the cockpit.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We got pretty soaked!</td></tr>
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We continued watching the wind strength…30 knots…35 knots…we had gusts up to 38 knots, but sustained 32 – 33 knots! We tried to get our country flags down, and in the end, had to cut the halyard that held them, so twisted and torn were they! We were still way overpowered with one reef in our main sail, so we had to drop it. In dramatic fashion, we quickly faced into the wind once again, and just let the main halyard go, and with a bang, the main sail crashed down onto the boom, landing in a messy heap on the sail bag! But that was the least of our worries…at the same time, we realized that we had lost an engine! We had put the engines on when the storm first came through, and when Dave revved them this time, to turn the boat into the wind, only one engine engaged. We had lost our port engine!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby mourns our sodden mass of flags dumped unceremoniously on the floor, never having lived the glory they were meant for!</td></tr>
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About 45 minutes had passed since the first winds hit us and the bridge couldn’t open, but we soon heard them on the radio. The bridge tender advised that the wind was now at a safe enough strength for him to open, and he would do so when we were ready. With now only having one engine, we had to raise the sail one more time, to have some additional maneuverability going through the bridge. We put a sliver of sail up, with 3 reefs in the mail sail. We turned the boat around and once again headed towards John’s Pass, limping into the channel that leads to the bridge. Throughout this whole drama, Mike Auton was also stuck out here on his boat, single-handedly keeping her under control in the storm!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We turn Cool Runnings around for the final time and head toward John's Pass Bridge. Mike is in front of us also waiting for a bridge opening</td></tr>
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Soon we were close enough to see our land welcoming committee! Waving flags and holding up a huge sign that read “Welcome Home Hibberd Family”, there were cheers and shouts of joy! We radioed the bridge and asked for an opening. The bridge tender came back and said, “I understand you are just returning from a world circumnavigation”.<br />
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“Yes, that’s right,” said Dave. “We’ve been gone for just over 2 years, and we are now coming home!”<br />
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“Well,” said the bridge tender, “we at John’s Pass salute you and are honored to have you amongst us! Welcome Home!” It was so moving, I had tears in my eyes!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As we get closer, we see them waving to us from the shore!</td></tr>
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Unfortunately, Dave missed most of the transmission and the kind words because he had spotted Mike in a bit of a pickle! During the rough seas in the storm, his anchor had come loose and fallen over the bow of his boat! He was having to pull it up by hand, and keep his boat somewhat into the wind! There was little we could do, as we ourselves were a bit bruised and battered, limping along with one engine and it was still rough and blowing about 20 knots!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike working on pulling up his anchor</td></tr>
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As we sailed through the bridge, the bridge tender gave us a very long, very loud blast of his horn, and announced through his microphone, “Welcome Home, Cool Runnings!”. Even the cars on the bridge, who normally get annoyed with the boats going through, (because it inevitably delays someone), were honking their horns in welcome! It felt wonderful!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-cyLgvO4SUjznBu_njajj9MUgL1arEsabOhN43ae-DqAaVrK1-VB0UmmFOR6hY02gyWHmxu3Nh3tK099maxbBzYMk3YhIYJZ0mtFp1GlExdWkdgb94fXYmtZKUT0zIn9vpveMi81gkV6U/s1600/IMG_2478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-cyLgvO4SUjznBu_njajj9MUgL1arEsabOhN43ae-DqAaVrK1-VB0UmmFOR6hY02gyWHmxu3Nh3tK099maxbBzYMk3YhIYJZ0mtFp1GlExdWkdgb94fXYmtZKUT0zIn9vpveMi81gkV6U/s640/IMG_2478.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On shore, Allen, Dave's dad, Kayla, our niece and Rosemary, Dave's mom, cheer us on</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_7pEVVWZDiUHzecZRMd3RgZTw44ZplDP8Mv30GO9BmqzdjdExmXzON0FjNg86rrbZ5lC0PvTdcL07EO1tlAoZwA_LEXiZXd3fTuZ7iuPCEeHh3CpMOwloqGD2OTdBC-okknjYX1kw_7yF/s1600/DSC_1165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_7pEVVWZDiUHzecZRMd3RgZTw44ZplDP8Mv30GO9BmqzdjdExmXzON0FjNg86rrbZ5lC0PvTdcL07EO1tlAoZwA_LEXiZXd3fTuZ7iuPCEeHh3CpMOwloqGD2OTdBC-okknjYX1kw_7yF/s640/DSC_1165.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby waves back as we get ready to go through the bridge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7UgyOMUixjwQK1yrY70gVfW4wqWeoI1jwhzySI-DPpnHyCXQHlOwNPWz11eys79gPyPHb-hIS4tMfegmIvN523mcGMYI8S61srgo3yi5J9QnYnJoBA3weYVUvpRRds6r51cfmISm26K3D/s1600/DSC_1167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7UgyOMUixjwQK1yrY70gVfW4wqWeoI1jwhzySI-DPpnHyCXQHlOwNPWz11eys79gPyPHb-hIS4tMfegmIvN523mcGMYI8S61srgo3yi5J9QnYnJoBA3weYVUvpRRds6r51cfmISm26K3D/s640/DSC_1167.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In calm water at last as the bridge closes behind us. Mike is still out there, and had to wait for the next bridge opening!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEhlKXofLeJ5XYklTnAZtZ2ZxTpMvO42Jves1Jdzd6um1XSP4a2NjVDBbCOBG08kDeLz3HqWxFnj290AX2oCeiXPOIThFpoxz8NnMTql6vLcnx7yYIAbiQYqq89yS3wta5niC_7TEaowG/s1600/DSC_1168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEhlKXofLeJ5XYklTnAZtZ2ZxTpMvO42Jves1Jdzd6um1XSP4a2NjVDBbCOBG08kDeLz3HqWxFnj290AX2oCeiXPOIThFpoxz8NnMTql6vLcnx7yYIAbiQYqq89yS3wta5niC_7TEaowG/s640/DSC_1168.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben takes the helm as we watch the bridge slowly close behind us</td></tr>
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Now in the calm waters of Boca Ciega Bay, Dave had a quick look at the engine to see what the problem was. We had a broken fan belt - it had literally shredded! But no worries for this circumnavigator! He pulled out a spare fan belt that we had carried with us all around the world, and quickly changed it! 30 minutes later, we were back to 2 engines! We dropped our sail for good this time, and motored the rest of the way home.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWLcXScpzEaFP8B7kbwP4-IfAZ2uTdASq4u-wvTZ5S5tGuYL0XlgGSg08dfegs5ccvqA01hlvWDeefEuFTswz3a3fW2t-maVkqcKsLCalhcQNbH-Nr14fNkwdQKaBto5xBsZNl6VfwHhDf/s1600/fanbelt+fix.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWLcXScpzEaFP8B7kbwP4-IfAZ2uTdASq4u-wvTZ5S5tGuYL0XlgGSg08dfegs5ccvqA01hlvWDeefEuFTswz3a3fW2t-maVkqcKsLCalhcQNbH-Nr14fNkwdQKaBto5xBsZNl6VfwHhDf/s640/fanbelt+fix.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The broken fanbelt lies on our cockpit table as Dave huddles in the engine room installing a new one!</td></tr>
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As we entered our canal, we spotted David and Kay, who live at the end of the road out on their dock, waving, cheering and welcoming us home. Next to them live Patty and Dave Simmons, and as we passed their house, I saw Patty running out, both arms waving, shouting “Welcome Home!”. Jeff was out on his dock, clapping and shouting “Bravo, Bravo!” We felt like celebrities!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTNEJsqhOs0hgx-T7-OoRx77dAFqovnHklY0RcJnlr-ETcYtDB1F40-vnHzh00YwtKfx1M-IV4egVEVSJ2CJMvKWWK4T-P3-f0hFrvTS-BASw0AGdCKmzbTb2wnArTPSFXZsfCjTK0Fzsf/s1600/canal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTNEJsqhOs0hgx-T7-OoRx77dAFqovnHklY0RcJnlr-ETcYtDB1F40-vnHzh00YwtKfx1M-IV4egVEVSJ2CJMvKWWK4T-P3-f0hFrvTS-BASw0AGdCKmzbTb2wnArTPSFXZsfCjTK0Fzsf/s640/canal.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coming down our canal. </td></tr>
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And then there it was…our house, our dock, our family and Dave’s friends from work, (Kim, Cindy and Edette) all cheering us on and welcoming us home! Thank you so much, Ladies, for making the drive out on a Friday afternoon, and for sitting through the ridiculous storm, and waiting the extra hour or so until we were finally at the dock! We know it turned into a much longer expedition than you had probably planned, but we really, really appreciated it! To all our neighbors and friends, thank you for welcoming us home! Mike, Jeff and John, thanks for coming out on your boats to see us. It certainly wasn’t the homecoming we had planned, but boy, was it a story to tell!! How ironic, that we made it all the way around the world, and one of the worst storms we encountered was a few miles from our house!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOi_AbMD1MaQpdYZ9JmdVcd_gVrXIz6prCirdXJSwd2PEhQMAIyYHKQtiJxnj_-S_RuqHx2bttDDOcYAfpn03OG7nzjvDCm9x8-XKh6l7tCODIpmx3zfNXugYC5pADY99WDBnS529m0nm4/s1600/arriving+at+the+dock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOi_AbMD1MaQpdYZ9JmdVcd_gVrXIz6prCirdXJSwd2PEhQMAIyYHKQtiJxnj_-S_RuqHx2bttDDOcYAfpn03OG7nzjvDCm9x8-XKh6l7tCODIpmx3zfNXugYC5pADY99WDBnS529m0nm4/s640/arriving+at+the+dock.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving at the dock...Gaby is bursting with excitement!</td></tr>
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Stepping onto our dock again was a little surreal. It was like we had never even left, and yet, it was a world apart. We had all grown so much (literally and figuratively!), and yet we were still the same. It’s not something I can easily explain. Our adventure was over. The trip; the saving, the planning and preparation that had consumed us for years, was over. We had accomplished and experienced something of epic proportions, and I was sad that it had come to an end. But standing there on our dock, watching the joy in the kids’ faces as they hugged their grandparents and squealed with delight over seeing our dog, Lucy again, made me realize that it’s also OK to let that go, to savor the memories we made, feel proud of what we accomplished, and move on. Move forward, to this new, old life, and who knows, to maybe one day, do it all again!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0VAKJbi1hxN_P4BLX_-SypOq0g2_4lEWl7WFSpcwq3QCqLfjiPyHeraqrAKm5NObXOY5nR1EAaq2zqNcB9lL467B9cPcnPgFXxzmXF9YLahYOK9A0PLZQCjaWUi0s-zJRYXJ_D_Oi3oLP/s1600/back+on+land.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0VAKJbi1hxN_P4BLX_-SypOq0g2_4lEWl7WFSpcwq3QCqLfjiPyHeraqrAKm5NObXOY5nR1EAaq2zqNcB9lL467B9cPcnPgFXxzmXF9YLahYOK9A0PLZQCjaWUi0s-zJRYXJ_D_Oi3oLP/s640/back+on+land.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back on land!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLZIElW_BeDEKtIF4ujBOfaHrlsiiumCse0bmLGOVIO0ge3cUMd9y-GVqHREhxChdotiDkM_a4Gt0Cl4vVXnd-bNeHI-dJSxdJc0g5ZyWPdGE059GUgHHW9SnoVIFXHqBBhN4OEoNytacQ/s1600/more+welcome+home.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLZIElW_BeDEKtIF4ujBOfaHrlsiiumCse0bmLGOVIO0ge3cUMd9y-GVqHREhxChdotiDkM_a4Gt0Cl4vVXnd-bNeHI-dJSxdJc0g5ZyWPdGE059GUgHHW9SnoVIFXHqBBhN4OEoNytacQ/s640/more+welcome+home.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More Welcome Home!</td></tr>
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We hope you enjoyed travelling virtually with us on our journey around the world! We loved having you along, and appreciated every single comment, email or phone call we received. A special thank you to those of you who propped us up when we were down, who helped us out when we were in need, who welcomed us and hosted us when we visited you. There are too many to mention by name, but we hope you know who you are! You are all welcome to come and visit at any time! Cool Runnings is enjoying a well-earned rest right now, but she’ll be ready for some trips to Egmont Key or even the Florida Keys in the near future.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8KPoLc9ZQZYCIQwdZN9v-zyP7Tu2mD_tGKimwTt5k0S3kiSyeVH3ibdTNo1He9-QSf9JbwbL0CRAZR7NEN-hn2677n3nHCzpd5XAVm2pOVVXXJ5eQdbkBgNzyA3gt6tGi5TydqqMjJ0X_/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8KPoLc9ZQZYCIQwdZN9v-zyP7Tu2mD_tGKimwTt5k0S3kiSyeVH3ibdTNo1He9-QSf9JbwbL0CRAZR7NEN-hn2677n3nHCzpd5XAVm2pOVVXXJ5eQdbkBgNzyA3gt6tGi5TydqqMjJ0X_/s640/image.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool Runnings at rest at our dock at sunset</td></tr>
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Please note that our Iridium email address (hibberd@myiridium.net), that we used while we were at sea, is no longer working as we have ended that subscription. You can reach us now on Dave’s email, which is <b>dthibberd@gmail.com</b>. We look forward to seeing old friends and new, if your paths ever lead you this way, we welcome you with open arms!<br />
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So what does the future hold for us? Well, we know what the kids will be doing, but for Dave and I, we are not quite sure! Both Ben and Gaby will be attending new schools. Benjamin will be starting 9th grade at Northside Christian School and Gaby will be starting 7th grade at Madeira Beach Fundamental School. Both Dave and I will be looking for jobs, I will hopefully return to freelancing, taking on meeting planning or project management jobs as they become available, but am open to anything at this point!<br />
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Although Dave is also open to anything, he has thought of starting a charter business in the interim. He will get his Captain’s License which will allow him to take paying passengers. We think he has a wealth of knowledge that he can somehow impart to others who either want to do what we did, or enjoy just a night, a weekend or a week on the boat. We have beautiful cruising waters right here in Florida that we can and should utilize, and a beautiful boat to do it in! With that in mind, we’ve spent the last couple of weeks since our return, furiously working to give Cool Runnings a make over, and she is looking fantastic! She’s lost a lot of weight, which will make her much faster in the water, and she’s had a few nips and tucks to make her beautiful again!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNK-eCjSJmu7wU0vJyjIjENulWVCEm4CUpphIw6RuqYv5YGRGc9JgQKY9UxPxp3Mrl9yPmnCyw_IqWoT9xy5k59Pf0iU-06AA629yhiFRRZeASImMKlNX_e5XX0LulLhEH3jxN98hFsjWN/s1600/new+CR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNK-eCjSJmu7wU0vJyjIjENulWVCEm4CUpphIw6RuqYv5YGRGc9JgQKY9UxPxp3Mrl9yPmnCyw_IqWoT9xy5k59Pf0iU-06AA629yhiFRRZeASImMKlNX_e5XX0LulLhEH3jxN98hFsjWN/s640/new+CR.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Revamped Cool Runnings...ready for a new adventure!</td></tr>
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We will see what this new, old life has in store for us, but for the time being, this is Cool Runnings, over and out. We hope you enjoyed the journey...we certainly have!<br />
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-18674076225559725542018-06-19T12:12:00.001-04:002018-06-19T12:12:22.678-04:00Back in Florida...But Not Quite Home!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Upon our arrival in Florida after crossing the Gulf Stream, we needed to get to Key West in short order so we could check in. We spent the first night at anchor in Card Sound, on the inside of North Key Largo. The next morning we left early, as we were aiming for Bahia Honda, about 70 miles south.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiS84oNUON6v28lU2sndLfKlAyMLYBqy1x0ddGI9x4YPXYbEKHzxIGLDQ4aPBbovo1RZlA0lEw8YvWsEwqwWni4C7vsnlR4PIfJ4vFhjXFEuX9Bo26y8neWyukkwjQPvQc-FquOQ8-Luv5/s1600/DSC_0873.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiS84oNUON6v28lU2sndLfKlAyMLYBqy1x0ddGI9x4YPXYbEKHzxIGLDQ4aPBbovo1RZlA0lEw8YvWsEwqwWni4C7vsnlR4PIfJ4vFhjXFEuX9Bo26y8neWyukkwjQPvQc-FquOQ8-Luv5/s640/DSC_0873.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good ol' Florida sunset - Card Sound</td></tr>
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We had a really great sail, with light winds, but enough for a peaceful meander down the chain of islands that make up the Florida Keys. Our only hiccup occurred when we were sitting down for lunch, and Dave noticed that the auto pilot was making a strange sound. He sprayed it with some silicone spray, and then decided to continue hand steering. It felt like something was caught on the rudder or propellers. Luckily, it was calm enough for us to completely slow down, and Dave jumped in the water to have a look, and see if anything was caught. There was nothing. After continuing to alternatively hand steer and put it on auto pilot, he came to the conclusion that our auto pilot was just tired! It looks like the hydraulics may just be worn and will need replacing. After a whole loop around the world, and an additional trip across the Atlantic (by the previous owner), plus the trips we did before leaving on the circumnavigation, we reckon the auto pilot has more than served us well! We mainly hand steered from then on, to minimize any use of the auto pilot.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVeGsnGHFQX0LYVcBlZCjb1i1esObKx3eLxlIDFDUXF3oBYpI-WSQ4vGgbMUCwv5MoDPXuv6pRkq6-kKBkK7YAriK_P3EVs21YG5dJX_HBYfHD6BitYJP9BoR8JtktcOqTBX3TQ-wvi12E/s1600/sailing+FL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVeGsnGHFQX0LYVcBlZCjb1i1esObKx3eLxlIDFDUXF3oBYpI-WSQ4vGgbMUCwv5MoDPXuv6pRkq6-kKBkK7YAriK_P3EVs21YG5dJX_HBYfHD6BitYJP9BoR8JtktcOqTBX3TQ-wvi12E/s640/sailing+FL.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailing down the Florida Keys. Familiar marker buoys help us to stay in deeper water; dolphins come to greet us...it never gets old! Gaby enjoys the calm sail </td></tr>
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The first thing we noticed when we arrived at Bahia Honda was the lack of vegetation. We keep forgetting how hard all these areas, including the Florida Keys, were hit by the devastating 2017 hurricanes Irma and Maria. We had been to Bahia Honda quite a few times, both on Cool Runnings and our previous boat, and the walk up to the bridge and the view down to the anchorage was always through thick palm trees. Now the trees are gone, and a good portion of the old bridge looks like it was damaged. The anchorage is nestled between Henry Flagler’s old railroad to Key West and the Overseas Highway, that runs from Key West to the mainland, linking all the islands together. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7z1Z-hMeRVDwmpj5xuzd-wz-4jfise_FIXpV_x0lDb6roSjsRMwhnVu8nAnPIDzIZVd9wYevIzeE07mt8wjMox3OyIaifNhvX-RIVbGAznexpvfcf-mf6wwvGqq6qW2ofdYUycD34Ioo/s1600/DSC_0843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7z1Z-hMeRVDwmpj5xuzd-wz-4jfise_FIXpV_x0lDb6roSjsRMwhnVu8nAnPIDzIZVd9wYevIzeE07mt8wjMox3OyIaifNhvX-RIVbGAznexpvfcf-mf6wwvGqq6qW2ofdYUycD34Ioo/s640/DSC_0843.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving at Bahia Honda. The old railway bridge in front with the new highway behind. A gap in the old bridge provides an entrance into a calm anchorage</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0zqqrIkPCC0aJi9OjDlittk8ZpFsvRHZqVu5AwgQrRTq2zxWqoVl04ccAHENJjhia_biF8z_vhfnK1bPS1gFKtriQF9X19vuTVwtdp8dX3qpdcDe6jd9VP_7kaHMjYmCoI6xpuOuI5DnB/s1600/bahia+honda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0zqqrIkPCC0aJi9OjDlittk8ZpFsvRHZqVu5AwgQrRTq2zxWqoVl04ccAHENJjhia_biF8z_vhfnK1bPS1gFKtriQF9X19vuTVwtdp8dX3qpdcDe6jd9VP_7kaHMjYmCoI6xpuOuI5DnB/s640/bahia+honda.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Henry Flagler's old railroad to Key West</td></tr>
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We stayed the night, and didn’t even go ashore, as we had not officially checked into the country yet. The following morning, we left early again, and headed down to Key West. It was a shorter trip, with about 40 miles separating the two destinations. We had dropped our sails and were motoring in the busy channel past Mallory Square and the busy Key West waterfront. A big cruise ship was docked in front of the Hilton Key West Marina, from which we departed in April 2016. Benjamin was at the wheel when we crossed our wake, our current track crossing over the one we made back then, completing the loop around the world! It was an emotional moment and we felt extremely proud of ourselves for what we had accomplished!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi27dmm30ITSulib1-dorH_LYeoJFr3l4E-CcM1Rj07SSsKkaN2uvUD_n0-xxA6eRykYPl2sDqujqtnz3r62jFMF4_iOgz7S9clGRMZk-ox41T9Tj5kLz6qs0qdlUNBt-oqfJTmcxc8Pc5G/s1600/IMG20180531120705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi27dmm30ITSulib1-dorH_LYeoJFr3l4E-CcM1Rj07SSsKkaN2uvUD_n0-xxA6eRykYPl2sDqujqtnz3r62jFMF4_iOgz7S9clGRMZk-ox41T9Tj5kLz6qs0qdlUNBt-oqfJTmcxc8Pc5G/s640/IMG20180531120705.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Celebrating our arrival in Key West and our moment of circumnavigation!</td></tr>
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Everything was familiar now. We went back to the fuel dock where we had filled up before we left. We enjoyed walking up and down Duval Street. We walked around Mallory Square, watching the street performers as we had done before we left. Except now we were feeling relieved, happy, proud. Then we were feeling excited, somewhat anxious and a little bit overwhelmed!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqjkV63DXgfXU-REwjo0K4Urg3w-SQlrgELmLQw9V9rxCXDVA0L2W-Ac6d1DM28VsrAQNf4dkFYz5UNnJlXlZV_CntdPl1ahr0PuQhIx9-hy0z6aa7ZTjoulG2kl6DMNEQaOHRLbJh0_j0/s1600/key+west+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="974" data-original-width="1200" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqjkV63DXgfXU-REwjo0K4Urg3w-SQlrgELmLQw9V9rxCXDVA0L2W-Ac6d1DM28VsrAQNf4dkFYz5UNnJlXlZV_CntdPl1ahr0PuQhIx9-hy0z6aa7ZTjoulG2kl6DMNEQaOHRLbJh0_j0/s640/key+west+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meandering around Key West</td></tr>
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We allowed ourselves one night at the Galleon Marina, and then headed out at lunchtime the next day to start the final leg of our journey back home. We retraced our steps and sailed to Marquesas Key, roughly half way between Key West and the Dry Tortugas where we anchored for the night. The shallow water was crystal clear and provided a good opportunity to clean the hulls. They were not too bad, but Cool Runnings likes a clean bottom (don’t we all?! 😆), so we spent a few hours in the water giving her a good scrub. The following morning, we headed off to the Dry Tortugas, one of our favorite spots in Florida.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgYcyIVtM6RDiFUC0EVr_cfHMvJS8BTk1QxcLS_4FQysnPGxI2nf_cOU8ocsxtqACajEP3b0SUm4wRIeK5bgs_ArkB7uesTBG-fXFkC8fhzOTh9UAuj53z3taeexXz25I1AF_WWuLrQ1W7/s1600/DSC_0877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgYcyIVtM6RDiFUC0EVr_cfHMvJS8BTk1QxcLS_4FQysnPGxI2nf_cOU8ocsxtqACajEP3b0SUm4wRIeK5bgs_ArkB7uesTBG-fXFkC8fhzOTh9UAuj53z3taeexXz25I1AF_WWuLrQ1W7/s640/DSC_0877.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A breathless evening at anchor at Marquesas Key</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2-AIPLiUuKga8_yxVErE1IbTi6Vl2ICEvjCtcyP_9DnExFxSq-BXUZ-d6IjfImbbkmH080GXfI3rBljVOj8G56TwUaKjgLNy8_zPXoML4KcKOhOy5pV_aVbeiu3LaVR-r1Jmt42t8VFb/s1600/marquesas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2-AIPLiUuKga8_yxVErE1IbTi6Vl2ICEvjCtcyP_9DnExFxSq-BXUZ-d6IjfImbbkmH080GXfI3rBljVOj8G56TwUaKjgLNy8_zPXoML4KcKOhOy5pV_aVbeiu3LaVR-r1Jmt42t8VFb/s640/marquesas.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's become Gaby's tradition to blow our conch at sunset. Ben pops his head out of his cabin hatch to watch the sun go down</td></tr>
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In Key West, Dave had purchased a book called “The Slumbering Giant” about the history of Fort Jefferson. It was short, full of old pictures and an easy read, so we all managed to read some, if not all of it before we arrived back at the fort again. While we had known most of the key facts about the fort, reading the book provided us with a little more insight into, and appreciation of, the enormity of building the fort, and the conditions of life at the fort back in the late 1800’s. Let’s just say I’m very glad I live in the 21st century!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xLx1ViDnO1VR-Mju0NMyM4-Hb_LaUQqVbItSWGJsFdQdSsi1GEcRdYtyShYFJqsIiwCLLa2kJf3orowKm2n0UbEd2Y-d4PNXb3S50xzf8APcfaeCI_iLxS_hsKw5mQe5kjKfNlREOart/s1600/DJI_0005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xLx1ViDnO1VR-Mju0NMyM4-Hb_LaUQqVbItSWGJsFdQdSsi1GEcRdYtyShYFJqsIiwCLLa2kJf3orowKm2n0UbEd2Y-d4PNXb3S50xzf8APcfaeCI_iLxS_hsKw5mQe5kjKfNlREOart/s640/DJI_0005.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our drone captures this image of Fort Jefferson from the air</td></tr>
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Construction began in 1846 and continued for some 30 years, when, in 1874 the fort was abandoned by the army. It was never completely finished, and nor fully armed. It was never attacked, and a shot was never fired from it. During the Civil War, the fort was used as a prison, mainly for Union deserters, its most famous prisoner was Dr. Samuel Mudd, the physician who set the leg of Lincoln's assassin, John Wilkes Booth. 16 million bricks were used to build the fort, and it has 2,000 arches! The engineering of building this fort, with foundations that continued to sink, let alone the logistics of getting the materials to this remote location, is staggering. We have visited many times, and never tire of its history nor its beauty.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjNdblbx0l83ZfL8AGN6Fho_UQN4Ustb22H1phfuq9PWGugOJM1BqHHeffw8ENsP5M66MwNqD3bVq0Bvih32ARq9_u4lTvxEXPD3NY0pf2JM1cakKSelwZ88NSDuHDQrN6bdtfIahZk6dx/s1600/fort2+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjNdblbx0l83ZfL8AGN6Fho_UQN4Ustb22H1phfuq9PWGugOJM1BqHHeffw8ENsP5M66MwNqD3bVq0Bvih32ARq9_u4lTvxEXPD3NY0pf2JM1cakKSelwZ88NSDuHDQrN6bdtfIahZk6dx/s640/fort2+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Images of Fort Jefferson: From the inside looking at one of the walls; the bricks, especially those facing the ocean side, are subject to some serious erosion. There was a lot of restoration work going on while we visited this time. Arches and moats and a selfie on top of the fort walls</td></tr>
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On Sunday June 3rd in the late morning, we took the boat over past Loggerhead Key and tied up to a mooring buoy which marks the wreck of the Windjammer. We had done this on Benjamin’s 12th birthday before we left, but on that day, the water was cold and the current was incredibly strong. Only Dave was able to really snorkel the wreck, while Ben, Gaby and I sat in the dinghy, ready to pick him up. This time, the weather was perfect, the water was warm, and the current was non-existent. In other words, it was a perfect day to snorkel the wreck.<br />
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The vessel has been identified as the Norwegian <i>Avanti</i>, which sank January 22, 1907 while en route to Montevideo, Uruguay from Pensacola. The <i>Avanti</i>, originally named <i>Killean</i>, was an iron-hulled three-masted ship built in 1875 by the British company, John Reid & Co. It had a length of 261.4 feet, a beam of 39.3 feet, a draft of 17.5 feet, and a gross tonnage of 1,862 tons. This wreck site guide, taken from the National Parks Service website, identifies all the pieces of the wreck:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipct7GpfjFIQx3HEgf1BXn2lNAmnyAztDv5wSzDkj_CP6hRXrCfHhqLp_VeCeVZ7AABtg25FWFSioM1GejDlhg-NsGwV6AmXj8z1u-g_X7BKMdnrGK09HTlB9YI43xbpuCHiidhn3EfsEo/s1600/Windjammer_Guide-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="508" data-original-width="650" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipct7GpfjFIQx3HEgf1BXn2lNAmnyAztDv5wSzDkj_CP6hRXrCfHhqLp_VeCeVZ7AABtg25FWFSioM1GejDlhg-NsGwV6AmXj8z1u-g_X7BKMdnrGK09HTlB9YI43xbpuCHiidhn3EfsEo/s640/Windjammer_Guide-front.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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While the kids went off on their own, Ben on a paddle board and Gaby swimming alongside, Dave flew the drone to capture some incredible shots! If you turn the wreck guide image above, upside down, you can clearly see the wreck in the water below!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwB5UL-MhKMeqna620pesiLSguwsm7ae-86eYQEDSJ2SBQ_6W4yWk9x53L975rys4cPyJhEfdYtIblMS9A4rd9jN-rpWSfkjDo0TwVd_-8SkKMYX3yOmtwSg2KsNTHo3jBBz_QGAEWcWJ7/s1600/DJI_0009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwB5UL-MhKMeqna620pesiLSguwsm7ae-86eYQEDSJ2SBQ_6W4yWk9x53L975rys4cPyJhEfdYtIblMS9A4rd9jN-rpWSfkjDo0TwVd_-8SkKMYX3yOmtwSg2KsNTHo3jBBz_QGAEWcWJ7/s640/DJI_0009.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool Runnings next to the Windjammer wreck. The midship wreckage with the bowsprit and the main mast can be clearly seen...the stern wreckage is closest to our boat! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0P9KzD_jwq1E5CckhX1e2v2Sxvy9WBIqGc1LbRIXpOwWMR9S1Co9iNF5sla7Ee6gSBPTmu8VMD5ypK_MZ0_NAaZ_e0_a1Gukt_DlOlWpAfy6jISUrJ9yzzL8bm4JtENAFq_PJrWE7v1J/s1600/wreck+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="974" data-original-width="1200" height="323" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0P9KzD_jwq1E5CckhX1e2v2Sxvy9WBIqGc1LbRIXpOwWMR9S1Co9iNF5sla7Ee6gSBPTmu8VMD5ypK_MZ0_NAaZ_e0_a1Gukt_DlOlWpAfy6jISUrJ9yzzL8bm4JtENAFq_PJrWE7v1J/s400/wreck+%25281%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The guide turned upside down to correspond with our photo of the wreck</td></tr>
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<br />We were lucky that there was no wind and the water was crystal clear. The drone captured some amazing shots!<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmafZHkF5hQHqpdYnYpxxyH_FOUGl-OKatNsiBoZkbIOWCxyGUb4p5bva8n4_A734VPOlCwioyGSiSufoFN2RRhBtP9vAiI3UpII0ahxIug3PkHM9HkRF67jrCWhPUNwsA_L4MGgwvIwrw/s1600/drone+wreck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmafZHkF5hQHqpdYnYpxxyH_FOUGl-OKatNsiBoZkbIOWCxyGUb4p5bva8n4_A734VPOlCwioyGSiSufoFN2RRhBtP9vAiI3UpII0ahxIug3PkHM9HkRF67jrCWhPUNwsA_L4MGgwvIwrw/s640/drone+wreck.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben paddles out on the SUP, while Gaby swims behind, exploring the wreck. Bottom right: The drone captures Loggerhead Key, with Fort Jefferson way in the distance</td></tr>
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We soon joined them, and together we explored the wreck, not caring about the huge Barracuda eyeing us, or the nurse shark resting on the sandy bottom. How times have changed!! Both Gaby and Ben dove to the bottom, swimming in and out of old port holes, checking out the coral, schools of fish, and identifying what parts of the ship were now resting on the sea floor. It was amazing to see how they have progressed, how comfortable they were in the water, and how they were able to appreciate such and amazing sight…not only what it offers us now in the form of recreation, but to understand the ship as it was in its day, how it hit the reef and sunk, and what it must have been like for the captain and crew aboard the Windjammer.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBThnaM6SwCPM8p2Gs9VoEsymSxMWxNQAI08WZhMviGnQI2Opw0ABkjHXBqWhwYobl2qZ7Ow0EzdHoR7yZ46V0KFPoqY48ngBkJjhb2mF7emejBiI9Bm3mZOBrB36aPRGMJ4zBSom2I2YZ/s1600/diving+the+wreck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBThnaM6SwCPM8p2Gs9VoEsymSxMWxNQAI08WZhMviGnQI2Opw0ABkjHXBqWhwYobl2qZ7Ow0EzdHoR7yZ46V0KFPoqY48ngBkJjhb2mF7emejBiI9Bm3mZOBrB36aPRGMJ4zBSom2I2YZ/s640/diving+the+wreck.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diving the wreck</td></tr>
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Once back at anchor outside Fort Jefferson, we waited for the early evening, when the heat was a little more bearable, before we explored the fort again with our new-found knowledge. We noticed that there were many new informational signs posted around the fort, and a big lighthouse restoration project was underway. While we could definitely notice additional erosion on the windward facing fort walls, we could see that a lot of work is being done to restore the fort and keep it from falling into disrepair. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF0KsG7opRP7RXMPi1nl0bm5Cv9TBcxvXcmIlAworGqS9crluW9TEDTEfjE2z8E8wYxkyF_7ePzEnzQK6loqX3ltmxNSzp-8BUSiONPcG3PqeaffCa0riYb1ToB7IrScn4XunVbQNG5CpK/s1600/fort3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF0KsG7opRP7RXMPi1nl0bm5Cv9TBcxvXcmIlAworGqS9crluW9TEDTEfjE2z8E8wYxkyF_7ePzEnzQK6loqX3ltmxNSzp-8BUSiONPcG3PqeaffCa0riYb1ToB7IrScn4XunVbQNG5CpK/s640/fort3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the new informational signs; Fort wall and moat; and the weathered bricks</td></tr>
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That evening, back on the boat, Dave did a weather download, and we started seeing the possibility of some weather coming our way. While we had initially planned to stay 3 – 4 days in the Dry Tortugas, we didn’t want to be stuck out there with our homecoming so close, so we decided to leave the following day, Tuesday, June 4th (which, coincidently, was our 24th wedding anniversary!). Our destination, Captiva island, was 124 miles away. Our typical 24 hour distance is 150 – 160 miles, or we can do about 80 miles in a full 12 day. In order to arrive in the morning, we needed to leave at about lunchtime, so we did a last outing to Loggerhead Key, where Dave flew the drone again. While he was flying, I heard some shouts of amazement…he had captured a huge Hammerhead shark chasing a Tarpon in very, very shallow water! That quickly put an end to any thoughts of jumping in the water for a quick swim!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lHB8pNyNlM1kKjHo-5rLzh0essPhgWoeI8VtLIm53Mic1SWs3PFndRnY4uRQjnZjnqMJsYTT8YTxYx1_EixAB53UDouhV158rZ4RyBJZvH3U2aqF3d31MgQmAnOxVVvNKO_nlratxJa6/s1600/loggerhead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lHB8pNyNlM1kKjHo-5rLzh0essPhgWoeI8VtLIm53Mic1SWs3PFndRnY4uRQjnZjnqMJsYTT8YTxYx1_EixAB53UDouhV158rZ4RyBJZvH3U2aqF3d31MgQmAnOxVVvNKO_nlratxJa6/s640/loggerhead.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool Runnings anchored off Loggerhead Key; the hammerhead shark the drone captured - look how close it is to the beach! Do you recognize the lighthouse on Loggerhead Key? (Take a look at the header at the top of this blog page!)</td></tr>
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We did go ashore and went for a walk around the island. We noticed some major erosion here too, and while we remember some great snorkeling on the reef on the far side of Loggerhead in the past, there was no coral, and only rock left. We were so hot that halfway around the island, we decided to go for a quick dip. Keeping a sharp lookout for the Hammerhead shark, we sank into the cool water…only Ben forgot to take his phone out of his swim shorts pocket, and it sank to the bottom, where it rested for a few seconds before he realized what had happened! Even though we rinsed it as carefully as we could with fresh water, and immersed it in rice for a day to two to absorb any liquid, the damage was done. It only took a tiny bit of salt water to get into the phone, and it fried the circuit board. The phone, sadly, was as dead as a door-nail. Poor Benjamin…both he and Gaby had put in $100 of their own money in Australia to buy these phones…their link to their friends and the outside world.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPph3aXY-en8hdEzzv-CjWw7wDgMf8BgnqUyBN0JOmiS2mJvopNdHLCqro9ouPZ_paDcqtWaNRA3sVo0EOYmB7wwaBGEka2bLsiENbRpOOQYzQ9tdT-NnBfhXUgk_vL78glOjlCXHQHq4f/s1600/DSC_1047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPph3aXY-en8hdEzzv-CjWw7wDgMf8BgnqUyBN0JOmiS2mJvopNdHLCqro9ouPZ_paDcqtWaNRA3sVo0EOYmB7wwaBGEka2bLsiENbRpOOQYzQ9tdT-NnBfhXUgk_vL78glOjlCXHQHq4f/s640/DSC_1047.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beauty on our doorstep: Cool Runnings at Loggerhead Key, Florida</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSaym75-2fSDWfotwp9CraiO1oSkMFu1aDnFSTjostSDyjdHxiSY8IR_pDydUFEiZVk-skvWL1NP7Vl9EAD98UrreWZjbzNIGSy6DpDarSbXXEYNYpi9vPNW6Xlua1FSv5FHJpAeNezWj/s1600/loggerhead+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1077" data-original-width="1200" height="574" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSaym75-2fSDWfotwp9CraiO1oSkMFu1aDnFSTjostSDyjdHxiSY8IR_pDydUFEiZVk-skvWL1NP7Vl9EAD98UrreWZjbzNIGSy6DpDarSbXXEYNYpi9vPNW6Xlua1FSv5FHJpAeNezWj/s640/loggerhead+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exploring Loggerhead Key. Erosion caused this pump house to literally break in half!</td></tr>
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We anticipated a motor sail in very light wind all the way back across the Gulf of Mexico, but after a few hours, the wind actually picked up, and we were able to sail all through the night…the last nightshift of our journey!! We negotiated the pass into Pine Island Sound, looking for marker buoys that provide a safe passage past the ever shifting sandbanks, and with breaking waves all around us, we were thankful for the green and red buoys! We had arrived much earlier than anticipated due to the unexpected wind assist, so we sat outside the South Seas Marina debating what to do. We had booked a night at this much-loved resort. We have spent many a fun-filled holiday here, and the kids were looking forward to the resort’s water slides! Dave took his time getting mooring lines and fenders ready, while I stayed at the helm and hovered. Just before 8:00am, he tried the marina on the VHF, and amazingly enough, the person who had taking our booking over the phone the day before, answered the radio! He was just arriving at work and was walking to the office from his car. He called us back within a few minutes with a slip assignment. No problem accommodating us so early in the morning! We were met by two dockmasters who helped us tie up, and once again, Cool Runnings and crew were in a familiar spot!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFDXjzIPEEaxRtNtqZQ2RatrEQe0H9VmW_QXjq4of1cDovHb_jMROW5e_k5rMjceXNbAHzjeyEPfrGtrL-UmzOmPmAWlcjOiDW980DNvm3zkmT8O89CYKDQmw6H_PoMXMYjjPuCcis6ZMt/s1600/south+seas+arrival.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="974" data-original-width="1200" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFDXjzIPEEaxRtNtqZQ2RatrEQe0H9VmW_QXjq4of1cDovHb_jMROW5e_k5rMjceXNbAHzjeyEPfrGtrL-UmzOmPmAWlcjOiDW980DNvm3zkmT8O89CYKDQmw6H_PoMXMYjjPuCcis6ZMt/s640/south+seas+arrival.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise arrival at Captiva Island, and Cool Runnings at the South Seas Marina</td></tr>
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We made the most of our time at South Seas, enjoying the beautiful grounds, taking multiple rides on the water slides, and taking the trolley into the little holiday town of Captiva, where we enjoyed great Mexican food at Cantina Captiva, another place we had frequented before! We watched the sunset over the Gulf of Mexico, from the land this time and continued making plans for our homecoming. From the previous blog posts you’ll know that we kept moving up the date up, and it was here that we downloaded the weather again, and decided one last time, to make the final push home, to be back by Friday, June 8th. We were enjoying the familiar sights, but by this time, it was almost like we were just killing time, and we were so close, it seemed silly to stretch it out any longer.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMDRUVGPNY9ouGuvsgbZJePhpy7iYJQUMOcVvKphVSSyyPgjrPJG2t6oTWe4h8edGMVXC_QjMiMzqCpzwMkWgXdcxnZfI7AdzvuoziWKoPv3jLQv_CdSOUsuJzVRyjJ9Kxu5KjR1ifBtFo/s1600/south+seas+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="974" data-original-width="1200" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMDRUVGPNY9ouGuvsgbZJePhpy7iYJQUMOcVvKphVSSyyPgjrPJG2t6oTWe4h8edGMVXC_QjMiMzqCpzwMkWgXdcxnZfI7AdzvuoziWKoPv3jLQv_CdSOUsuJzVRyjJ9Kxu5KjR1ifBtFo/s640/south+seas+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking the trolley from South Seas to Captiva; Ben and Gaby at Cantina Captiva; Gaby coming down the water slide and sunset at South Seas</td></tr>
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After a last side down the water slide, we left the marina and entered Florida’s Intracoastal Waterway. We raised the main and unfurled the jib and had a fantastic sail on the smooth, flat water. The wind was about 15 knots from about 90 degrees and we reached all the way down the channel, avoiding the shallow water on either side. We could see storm clouds brewing on the horizon, and watched them to see which way they were moving…definitely towards us! After about an hour’s sail, and when the storm looked to be a little closer, we made the decision to drop our sails and we did this with possibly a minute to spare. The storm was upon us in no time, with heavy rain, and wind sustained 30 knots!! I suddenly remembered Florida’s afternoon thunderstorms! We had just arrived at our destination of Cabbage Key, but with the strong wind and pouring rain, we just dropped anchor just outside of the channel to wait out the storm. Once it passed, (and it did so pretty quickly), we weighed anchor and moved to a better spot where we settled in for the afternoon.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYxB4P4DOOO0KFaxoLNCQuQqeuUNXlsmRNYBxj29bX0XxjN3TLdZSIXlxbcaWwEii3iDhkjQKkP8tq2ZXkHLsh_-In3y0zgZI_nji-TA1ioEJVM9IV4dUxdQFoQuMv6XjDD071hyX6-V6Y/s1600/DSC_1101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYxB4P4DOOO0KFaxoLNCQuQqeuUNXlsmRNYBxj29bX0XxjN3TLdZSIXlxbcaWwEii3iDhkjQKkP8tq2ZXkHLsh_-In3y0zgZI_nji-TA1ioEJVM9IV4dUxdQFoQuMv6XjDD071hyX6-V6Y/s640/DSC_1101.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MUcNmi2koCX4r5ZYYGdxttPQpqgQzBOnxBbrDsb2GWKdxp4YqgKCJNv7U3C5PzEG_YfwVgmBy9iZGV5X7DrKZPupn7szbKH7ZIeXn-po1i64hgaR12RixeV_xwmUjNBzIsgytMuOCSdH/s1600/DSC_1102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MUcNmi2koCX4r5ZYYGdxttPQpqgQzBOnxBbrDsb2GWKdxp4YqgKCJNv7U3C5PzEG_YfwVgmBy9iZGV5X7DrKZPupn7szbKH7ZIeXn-po1i64hgaR12RixeV_xwmUjNBzIsgytMuOCSdH/s640/DSC_1102.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">During...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwPrsmZ5fiaItiYYiP3hfqn0PFgdCna20wnHQ71_wLWHpQpHVYBVgOB4iJPa28-piAb5wHrdSvVlpfNHS7k0xtJQVEKlaqERFVcVGEt64MgU9u0E1W5A7qUQIsKVdXlezXC0LHkQfbEhav/s1600/DSC_1112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwPrsmZ5fiaItiYYiP3hfqn0PFgdCna20wnHQ71_wLWHpQpHVYBVgOB4iJPa28-piAb5wHrdSvVlpfNHS7k0xtJQVEKlaqERFVcVGEt64MgU9u0E1W5A7qUQIsKVdXlezXC0LHkQfbEhav/s640/DSC_1112.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And after the storm!</td></tr>
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The following morning, we took the dinghy to Cabbage Key, a small island with an old Inn and Restaurant on it. It also has one of areas oldest water towers that is still standing. Most others have been destroyed in hurricanes, but this one has stood the test of time and weather. We treated ourselves to breakfast at the little restaurant, and climbed the water tower, as we have done many times before!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlXcI4ZvT1hd-mwt0YJW5sg5kvDJsaYvSU7MaiWNLp9iVh4-sxJChaUJqDgo6tU8O9X-qTUEH2OHW91JU9BILE8htGpuKwov1BvsmdjLJUoyQrigwI7ldyDnM1d1esGYM5Tulc9HjT4Kqh/s1600/Cabbage+Key.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="974" data-original-width="1200" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlXcI4ZvT1hd-mwt0YJW5sg5kvDJsaYvSU7MaiWNLp9iVh4-sxJChaUJqDgo6tU8O9X-qTUEH2OHW91JU9BILE8htGpuKwov1BvsmdjLJUoyQrigwI7ldyDnM1d1esGYM5Tulc9HjT4Kqh/s640/Cabbage+Key.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cabbage Key is on the National Register of Historic Places</td></tr>
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It was then on to our second last stretch before reaching home. We are able to navigate the Intracoastal waterway as far as Venice, after which time, we need to exit and continue sailing on the outside, as there are fixed span bridges that we don’t fit under. The majority of the Intracoastal Waterway bridges are 65ft high, and our mast is 70ft high. We had a couple of bascule bridges to pass through which opened either on a set schedule or on demand. We soon heard another boat on the radio asking for a bridge opening and soon we could see it. It was another catamaran. We were sailing (pretty slowly) and they were motoring, and soon they caught us up. We chatted on the radio and discovered that we had anchored together at Fowl Cay in the Bahamas! We recognized the dog they had on board! So we continued to move along together, allowing the bridges one opening instead of two.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNzw-DeFj8Gbs-gSa_dwCe-GIl6GZAynQ-SWXYAy-VQSJfLmnMJFZArJZ_hyZMLzxNac424LHicLG9uti-QC-C5T6pccJsVklZp5m38zaD39rYQVcRDQezv5ep9tVVPyRjEsTyYTyS57T/s1600/DSC_1113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNzw-DeFj8Gbs-gSa_dwCe-GIl6GZAynQ-SWXYAy-VQSJfLmnMJFZArJZ_hyZMLzxNac424LHicLG9uti-QC-C5T6pccJsVklZp5m38zaD39rYQVcRDQezv5ep9tVVPyRjEsTyYTyS57T/s640/DSC_1113.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben at the helm as he takes the boat through one of the bridges on the Intra-Coastal waterway</td></tr>
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Close to Venice there are 2 bridges in very close succession, and the last 2 before we spilled out into the Venice inlet. We passed through the first bridge together with Ohana, the other catamaran. Then we sat and waited for the second bridge – the last bridge we had to get through. The bridge tender said he was going to open for us, and we got ready. And then nothing happened. Soon the bridge tender was back on the radio. Only one side of the bridge was operational, and he couldn’t lift the other. So we waited. And waited. And waited. Back and forth on the radio. He said it would take a while as he needed to wait for maintenance to come and fix it. The space was tight for 2 big boats to try and hover and we eventually decided we would tie up to a small public dock and Ohana would raft up next to us. It was so frustrating being that close, and not being able to move forward! Just one more bridge and we would be free, but it was like being imprisoned!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW72P29AiK9AHUWCPfLWcX4BLYvTG_-_aNRgfVjZWewdL9tmax43PaoQpKceLFK6Bn-Fk-Kyo_x1k6H9g4Ow-ve6sPynuYKOL97nhVjpdQ4FsMlU3aSZq6MtiBFCQaxvYwwN5H697IglNg/s1600/DSC_1116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW72P29AiK9AHUWCPfLWcX4BLYvTG_-_aNRgfVjZWewdL9tmax43PaoQpKceLFK6Bn-Fk-Kyo_x1k6H9g4Ow-ve6sPynuYKOL97nhVjpdQ4FsMlU3aSZq6MtiBFCQaxvYwwN5H697IglNg/s640/DSC_1116.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ohana waiting for the bridge that couldn't open!</td></tr>
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Eventually, we heard the bridge tender on the radio, saying he would try and lift the bridge for us, but only the one side that was operational. We would have to squeeze through, and make sure our masts didn’t hit the top of the arm that was up. Ohana went first, and we squeezed through behind them. We were free!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3vE7V_tAi9uGGVc30zHkIvDZc0rtm-kxFfoH0SSk3-aeSOR-LG2MZncGlfES7m76limYLaDBhL985I0bjBzakaufEAC3ltNrK-x0sFG-JiOxitJDLSBwMhnSPnC4VuTDgndnDJUjkB9H8/s1600/venice+bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="974" data-original-width="1200" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3vE7V_tAi9uGGVc30zHkIvDZc0rtm-kxFfoH0SSk3-aeSOR-LG2MZncGlfES7m76limYLaDBhL985I0bjBzakaufEAC3ltNrK-x0sFG-JiOxitJDLSBwMhnSPnC4VuTDgndnDJUjkB9H8/s640/venice+bridge.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ohana squeezes through one side of the bridge as we follow shortly behind. Ben and Gaby check to make sure our mast doesn't touch...it's a lot scarier when you're on the boat looking up!!</td></tr>
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We continued along to the Crow’s Next Marina where we tied up, almost in exactly the same place we had on April 17th, 2016. This was our first stop on our trip when we left, and it would be the last on our return! We enjoyed a lovely dinner at the Crow’s Nest Restaurant, and a restless night at the dock. Another storm came through with strong wind and swell coming in from the ocean. We were up a couple of times during the night checking and adjusting the lines and moving fenders. This was one thing I would not miss about cruising! We left early the next morning, motoring into the now calmer ocean, ready for our very last stretch, Madeira Beach, about 50 miles away! It was the last day of our circumnavigation. We would be home that afternoon. It was hard to comprehend! But Mother Nature had one more test for us before we were finally allowed to go home…<br />
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-81239835890561081462018-06-07T14:17:00.001-04:002018-06-07T14:17:56.838-04:00Crossing the Gulf Stream<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As a quick prologue to this post, I just wanted to let our local friends know that we have made one more change to our homecoming! We will be coming through the John's Pass bridge at about 3:00pm tomorrow, <b>Friday, June 8th</b>. If you happen to be caught at John's Pass bridge around that time, it'll be us passing through ~ give us a wave! <br />
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Getting from the Bahamas to Florida, should, in theory, be a “piece of cake”. A little over 50 miles separate the two countries, the closest point of entry/exit, are the small islands of Bimini, and further south, Gun Cay and North and South Cat Cay. In between, in this small stretch of Atlantic Ocean, the Gulf Stream current brings warm water from the south, to cooler waters in the north, ripping at a rate of up to 3 knots. This makes it a stretch of water that needs to be crossed with care.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNbMlVOvxH5nR0j-oL9XOEgyB_Cm1BsN6-sp8Am50zEpptJXLLfjHgK6hZQ3qvPlGv_kzmosMs1QHDvjx3fsk4THOaUnw3YmVNi2Nz0sQ57LIrjmTe6E3wlsbWeMU85a0I71fMJ1dMWX0i/s1600/gulf+stream.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNbMlVOvxH5nR0j-oL9XOEgyB_Cm1BsN6-sp8Am50zEpptJXLLfjHgK6hZQ3qvPlGv_kzmosMs1QHDvjx3fsk4THOaUnw3YmVNi2Nz0sQ57LIrjmTe6E3wlsbWeMU85a0I71fMJ1dMWX0i/s400/gulf+stream.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The flow of the Gulf Stream current taken from our weather routing program. The intensity of the current, and the position of it will change, but there is always a strong current between Florida and the Bahamas. The red arrow on the lower pictures shows roughly the relatively short crossing that we needed to make.</td></tr>
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We left the Berry Islands on Memorial Day, May 28th, in rainy, overcast weather, the remnants of Tropical Storm Alberto still in the air. We had to cross the shallow Bahama Bank to get to Cat Cay, about 80 miles away. On a sunny day, it would probably have been beautiful, the shallower water always reflecting so blue on a clear day, but we had the far outer storm bands still moving north, resulting in fresh winds and grey, heavy skies. It was an uneventful day, a little bumpy at times, but roughly 12 hours later, we arrived at tiny North Cat Cay, to anchor for the night, and make the Gulf Stream crossing the following day. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRKqC1x6kosue-sbSTkMRjHh24-khv_XWdFFYIAodRGEL6BcxAHBXPb8xG6ggvJTiU_e0860gWoAF3w27oOisrVePQv9RZyS2qRJ4YjDmgG1nP9ivRSCMK8VwGAaz9yXAytYHobpswhzCW/s1600/DSC_0768.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRKqC1x6kosue-sbSTkMRjHh24-khv_XWdFFYIAodRGEL6BcxAHBXPb8xG6ggvJTiU_e0860gWoAF3w27oOisrVePQv9RZyS2qRJ4YjDmgG1nP9ivRSCMK8VwGAaz9yXAytYHobpswhzCW/s640/DSC_0768.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving at Cat Cay</td></tr>
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Lighter wind was forecast, as often is the case after a storm passes, and we were OK with that. Heavy winds, even in the right direction, can whip up the waves, and with the strong Gulf Stream current, make for unpleasant, if not hazardous conditions. Wind in the wrong direction, fighting the strong current, make it an absolute “no-go” zone. Light, southerly winds were forecast, so we had wind with current, and were set to go. Leaving Cat Cay we still had a couple of squalls to negotiate, and we put a reef in the mail sail and furled the jib to 60%. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzEKTo0rjlM_hdrq_60kvfq3UmPYOU5eiT57-wChtKIZATYoPphH6Nvg72J-L2st4i0W5bMYFWIthV01UgLwAAY69dxMECCfE6qbGRMOUnWL1-co_r6kZM5b99vNniUhdRXWn4_Vj7Qk54/s1600/stormy+start.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzEKTo0rjlM_hdrq_60kvfq3UmPYOU5eiT57-wChtKIZATYoPphH6Nvg72J-L2st4i0W5bMYFWIthV01UgLwAAY69dxMECCfE6qbGRMOUnWL1-co_r6kZM5b99vNniUhdRXWn4_Vj7Qk54/s640/stormy+start.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A stormy start to the Gulf Stream crossing</td></tr>
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After a few hours, the storms passed, and the wind died. We shook out the reef and unfurled the jib, but it was still not enough to keep us going…and we started to feel the effects of the current. With no wind to help us, even motor sailing, we were starting to be swept sideways! We pointed further south than our intended destination of the bottom of Key Largo, but the current swept us to points north of Miami!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFA1EbwrqEaCz_e1Z6LiTlQd_NMYK0Qvm72fFpkUmm4nzPZkBanihsIPQRp2qmyxWPiQ_dN84NI5R_eQQqFTSoWw3Lv5w7xJZHk20ASZWWpTOvzD4HaxwgwJaVPL51mm5A4txhT1IDFjjb/s1600/swept+aside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="920" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFA1EbwrqEaCz_e1Z6LiTlQd_NMYK0Qvm72fFpkUmm4nzPZkBanihsIPQRp2qmyxWPiQ_dN84NI5R_eQQqFTSoWw3Lv5w7xJZHk20ASZWWpTOvzD4HaxwgwJaVPL51mm5A4txhT1IDFjjb/s640/swept+aside.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This shot of our chartplotter shows how we were being swept sideways. The yellow circle with the "X" in the middle is where we were trying to get to (our waypoint). The red arrow shows the direction the boat was pointing in (our heading), and the green arrow points to our COG (course over ground), ie. where we would end up! The purple is bad weather that is being transposed from our radar (top left).</td></tr>
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Gaby was the first to cry “Land Ahoy!” when she spotted the high rises of Miami sticking out like building blocks far on the horizon! We also knew we were back in US Waters when we heard the transmission on Channel 16, of Coast Guard Cutter 04, warning vessels in the area to stay clear. They were conducting live fire gunnery exercises, and after providing their position, gave a radius that had to be clear: 5,000 yards for vessels, 10,000 feet for any aircraft. We were passing to the north of them (we had a visual of the cutter, but they had turned off their AIS signal). Dave radioed them to make sure we didn’t have to change course. They said we were fine, but if we wanted to alter course slightly away from them, that they would appreciate it (increase the safety zone slightly, they said!). Soon we could see the plumes of smoke as they conducted their exercises. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkneeG4_I_iJkOH69r_gsDyO0j6aqd7j3azkxm1DVBNmZcSiYciZAfqaAplGuU6bekRD5qZ1UOaCWjMzr6uSXUOHUeyCrUZUiVomBNn5Y-PfB8jtwgkr74xLwoTIxL7Coqc71yOMcyUptu/s1600/skyline+and+cutter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkneeG4_I_iJkOH69r_gsDyO0j6aqd7j3azkxm1DVBNmZcSiYciZAfqaAplGuU6bekRD5qZ1UOaCWjMzr6uSXUOHUeyCrUZUiVomBNn5Y-PfB8jtwgkr74xLwoTIxL7Coqc71yOMcyUptu/s640/skyline+and+cutter.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Miami skyline appears on the horizon and plumes of smoke are seen as the Coast Guard Cutter conducts live fire exercises</td></tr>
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This went on for a few hours, and certainly kept us entertained and passed the time. In normal conditions, 50 miles, depending on our speed, would take anywhere from 6 – 8 hours for us to cover. Due to the current, we were, at times, making speeds of 2 – 3 knots VMG (velocity made good) to our destination. That means, although we were going 6 knots through the water, our calculated speed to get to our end point, was half, or less of that! In other words, it was taking forever!!!</div>
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We eventually managed to cut free of the current at about 6:00pm, about 12 hours after leaving the Bahamas! And we still had about 12 miles left to go to get to a channel that would allow us to get to the inside of Key Largo, where we could safely anchor for the night! We had daylight until about 8:00pm, so once free of the current, we motored south until we found the channel at Angelfish Creek, where we negotiated some shallow water, and saw some beautiful spotted eagle rays in the water, and stoic, white egrets standing like statues in the mangrove edge. This was all familiar. We were back in Florida. We were home.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMu-5e84B-_tiisS9jjymz2lHiIoK2ocaB7EH9_kQQ1sbkDTtT7GFBtkcRoI-gf7QRlMuI8YgM45aiEnUMjRWXpD554VvjZsMCKSREP5vJ-gws0njqaQ4ir9oOzC1xLBhjYQeruhiXNwnj/s1600/Keys+track.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="1132" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMu-5e84B-_tiisS9jjymz2lHiIoK2ocaB7EH9_kQQ1sbkDTtT7GFBtkcRoI-gf7QRlMuI8YgM45aiEnUMjRWXpD554VvjZsMCKSREP5vJ-gws0njqaQ4ir9oOzC1xLBhjYQeruhiXNwnj/s640/Keys+track.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our actual track across the Gulf Stream and down to Key West. The red dotted line shows the route we would normally have taken. The blue line shows our actual track, and how the current swept us sideways towards Miami!</td></tr>
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-21762109873912690442018-06-06T08:19:00.000-04:002018-06-06T08:19:59.478-04:00How Quickly the Plans ChangeOur return home keeps getting earlier and earlier! Originally, it was going to be end of June, then we moved that up slightly to the second last weekend in June, and then, once we arrived back in Key West, we settled on a leisurely 2-week cruise up the west of Florida, our old stomping ground, and planned a homecoming for Saturday, June 16th. <br />
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A few days ago, when we were anchored in the Dry Tortugas, we did a weather download for our trip across the Gulf of Mexico to Sanibel Island. The forecast models started showing another closed cell low-pressure system forming in the Gulf, and we knew we'd have to watch this one too, so decided back then to accelerate our departure from the Dry Tortugas. This morning, Dave downloaded the weather again, and this is the outlook for next week!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx4Y3mKoaVqETnr6Q5-TVC42SVx-8cb7iHwxJYAbUIGPT2jtnzs1tXdECqvvaxhASSgmQAfOePH9BC1GKJel6m5IYdXtg8BWYlLLshJBGKr_vbjIJB63Nl-KZ5XfxCpDK_PXifUWPxbi3I/s1600/Low+Pressure2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="468" data-original-width="770" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx4Y3mKoaVqETnr6Q5-TVC42SVx-8cb7iHwxJYAbUIGPT2jtnzs1tXdECqvvaxhASSgmQAfOePH9BC1GKJel6m5IYdXtg8BWYlLLshJBGKr_vbjIJB63Nl-KZ5XfxCpDK_PXifUWPxbi3I/s640/Low+Pressure2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forecast of the location of the low-pressure system next Thursday, June 14th. The grey in the center of the system shows winds of 60+ knots! We were planning on coming home on Saturday, June 16th. We're speeding up!!</td></tr>
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This system shows winds of 60 knots in the grey area in the center of the circle, and according to this model (GFS), its heading our way! Now, again, its just one model showing this intensity, but we don't take any chances. Something is out there, so we are accelerating, and getting to shelter! We are currently in North Captiva, near Fort Myers. We will now be safely tied up at our home dock, in Madeira Beach on <b>Saturday, June 9th, </b>another week earlier than planned. The pull of home is strong...the weather just gave us a little push to get there more quickly!<br />
<br />Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-11568394921623230862018-06-05T21:34:00.000-04:002018-08-26T14:04:01.190-04:00The Bottle That Went Around the WorldWhen we left on our circumnavigation in April 2016, our first stop (or our last stop in the USA), was the Dry Tortugas, about 70 miles west from Key West, Florida. Anchored off the magnificent Fort Jefferson, we saw another Lagoon catamaran, a Lagoon 440 anchored not too far from us. Dave and the kids went over to say hi, and chatted for a while, and so we met Gary and Brenda aboard s/v Pandion. Before we left, Gary dinghied over and very kindly presented us with a bottle of champagne and wished us well on our journey around the world.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUY3zIWrEb_V4bIoMJ9o-je-v_Y8sm13l3QzHhY5gE2bGHWbud5ZpjUcPzRZ0ch66xXFUh3t85pY9YRSgtsADlizRHjZ7EYij8fivhO5bTwQI5ysjg-TXoYUEwHa3vUutIC2z_oLGCEDZI/s1600/2016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUY3zIWrEb_V4bIoMJ9o-je-v_Y8sm13l3QzHhY5gE2bGHWbud5ZpjUcPzRZ0ch66xXFUh3t85pY9YRSgtsADlizRHjZ7EYij8fivhO5bTwQI5ysjg-TXoYUEwHa3vUutIC2z_oLGCEDZI/s400/2016.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">s/v Pandion (left) and s/v Cool Runnings anchored in the Dry Tortugas, FL in April 2016</td></tr>
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We had planned to drink the champagne on many occasions: when we crossed the Equator from North to South; on our first year anniversary; when we crossed the Equator the second time from South to North; on our second year cruising anniversary, but the timing was never right, and the bottle remained in our small locker that safely holds a few glass bottles.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Bottle that went around the World!</td></tr>
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Fast forward two years, and we were heading back towards the USA. One day, not long after we arrived in the Bahamas, we received a really nice email from Gary and Brenda aboard s/v Pandion. In the 2 years that we had been gone, they had retired, sold their house, moved aboard Pandion and were now cruising in the Bahamas! All this time, unbeknownst to us, they had been following our journey around the world on the blog! They had hoped we could possibly meet up somewhere in the Bahamas, but we were on opposite ends…they were cruising the Bight of Abaco, and we were down in George Town on Grand Exuma. We said we’d stay in touch, and hopefully meet up along the way. <br />
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When we made the decision to skip the Abacos, and go to the Berry Islands, we thought that unfortunately we would probably miss meeting up with s/v Pandion. Amazingly enough, we received an email the day we were leaving Nassau for the Berries from Gary, letting us know that they were heading to the Berries, and they were thinking they would probably miss us, since we’d said we were going to the Abacos! And so luck would have it, we were both heading to the Berry Islands from opposite directions! <br />
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We finally met up with Pandion on Thursday, 24th May, 2018 in Bullocks Harbor, Great Harbor Cay, Berry Islands, Bahamas! We were both sheltering there from the tropical cyclone Alberto, that had been threatening to come our way for the last week, and we were still unsure of its track. On our second evening together, we finally uncorked the bottle that Gary and Brenda had given us two years earlier, and that had accompanied us the whole way around the world! There was no better celebration to finally drink the champagne, than to share it with the wonderful couple that had given it to us! Thanks, Gary and Brenda for the great time we spent together in Great Harbor Cay! We are so glad we were finally able to meet up, and to share the special bottle with you! We wish you all the very best with your future cruising, and we’ll be following your blog http://pandionsail.blogspot.com !!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">CHEERS! Finally drinking the Champagne with Brenda and Gary</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Cruising the Berry Islands </span></b><br />
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Prior to our rendezvous with s/v Pandion, we had spent a week exploring the Berry Islands. After anchoring off Rose Island, near Nassau for one night, we left on the morning, Friday, May 18th and headed towards Bond Cay in the Berry Islands. The wind was blowing 15 – 20 knots and the sea was quite rough. We still flew our spinnaker, as the wind was directly behind us, and we made good speed towards the Berries. Prior to arriving at the pass in Bond Cay, we snuffed the spinnaker and motored the rest of the way in. We had wind against current, with the tide ripping out through the pass creating some uncomfortable seas and rough conditions. We carefully motored in, and were happy to find shelter behind Bond Cay as soon as we turned the corner.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM6q-3KlwpQuUGo0_QlSn9q2qs2W-VuPpPTAvvTHm5PrX811qXE3IaVVsrs8XrOv7ZktUGzejkxZKIwy8N9YsgTyh7Z1nnUDAkgA0YjcWCHO6ExNDKfMaVgZv2nvOCLgP8lXFQ0ZY2fsMb/s1600/Bond+Cay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM6q-3KlwpQuUGo0_QlSn9q2qs2W-VuPpPTAvvTHm5PrX811qXE3IaVVsrs8XrOv7ZktUGzejkxZKIwy8N9YsgTyh7Z1nnUDAkgA0YjcWCHO6ExNDKfMaVgZv2nvOCLgP8lXFQ0ZY2fsMb/s640/Bond+Cay.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top: Entering the pass at Bond Cay. Bottom: Outside the pass, the waves break onto the rocks, inside, we finally find some calm water</td></tr>
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But the outlook for the foreseeable future was bleak…the rain and wind that we had experienced in the Exumas looked set to continue for the rest of our time in the Berries. Since we couldn’t control the weather, we decided to make the best of what we did have, and that was a weak cell phone signal, so we spent the following day anchored off Bond Cay and did blog updates, caught up on email, did school, read and watched movies. There was not much at Bond Cay, so even a dinghy ride in the rain and wind wasn’t warranted!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA6VX56BNtwSoDT81dfxkXTVdPcEHccFBm84DpioxD2cwVWDgthfSoZXIqg9UjClTq2peJ-miZzbJP4ea8gx6NGaWl9kr_8zd_xqLrUgQoxGTuhng8LBWQpZTxr3tE13Rv8Q4ack5Rqkum/s1600/Screenshot_2018-05-18-09-20-47-28.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA6VX56BNtwSoDT81dfxkXTVdPcEHccFBm84DpioxD2cwVWDgthfSoZXIqg9UjClTq2peJ-miZzbJP4ea8gx6NGaWl9kr_8zd_xqLrUgQoxGTuhng8LBWQpZTxr3tE13Rv8Q4ack5Rqkum/s400/Screenshot_2018-05-18-09-20-47-28.png" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
A screenshot of the weather outlook when we arrived in the Berry Islands!</td></tr>
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The lee of the Berry Islands is extremely shallow, but we’d checked the charts and it looked like we could stay on the inside from Bond Cay to Hoffman’s Cay. On Sunday, May 20th, we relocated from Bond to Little Harbor Cay. The weather was slowly improving, and it was here that we explored the beach that prompted the kids’ reports on plastic. We stayed anchored here for 2 nights, continuing to do schoolwork in the mornings, and exploring in the afternoon. We were enjoying the Berry Islands. Although not as stunningly beautiful as the Exumas, they were still very pretty, and we were loving the solitude! There was nothing out here, including very few other boats.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHOubpHzm9i2HDwtg8yO8Pazs5CsO630iUckkbbbX-7ah27yS1uYaX1ShxS_3KjwbQQWOGko466g8D_nvr1V7WbSZjfrSCxEMfXlY-ffEwEFWbZM-pBecWHTwDW5WUThyphenhyphengHvNDeb4CKKyG/s1600/Little+Harbor+Cay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHOubpHzm9i2HDwtg8yO8Pazs5CsO630iUckkbbbX-7ah27yS1uYaX1ShxS_3KjwbQQWOGko466g8D_nvr1V7WbSZjfrSCxEMfXlY-ffEwEFWbZM-pBecWHTwDW5WUThyphenhyphengHvNDeb4CKKyG/s640/Little+Harbor+Cay.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exploring Little Harbor Cay. The image on the bottom left is a satellite image of the Berry Islands. The light blue / white areas are the shallows and sand banks...as you can see, there are many! And, by the way, don't the Berry Islands look like a Conch Shell?! Gaby displays this beautiful Conch that we found on Little Harbor Cay</td></tr>
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We were also closely watching the weather. There was a closed low pressure cell that we had been monitoring ever since we had first seen it on one of our weather models back in Cambridge Cay in the Exumas. What was frustrating us was that none of the weather models were agreeing on its path. The GFS model had it moving in a westerly direction, directly over us, with winds up to 45 knots. The European model showed it as a weaker system, moving eastwards. The other 2 models didn’t even show it at all! As the days went on, we learned that it had become a named storm, Alberto, an early storm forming outside of the “official” hurricane season. It looked like we would experience its impact on Friday and Saturday, May 25th and 26th. As a precaution, we decided to book a berth in the Great Harbor Cay marina, which had the reputation of being one of the safest marinas in the Bahamas, due to its location in a hurricane hole.<br />
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While the storm was looming, the weather where we were was actually improving! (the calm before the storm?!). We moved neighborhoods once again, and edged our way through the shallow banks to anchor off Hoffman’s Cay, a really beautiful spot! Getting there proved to be an adventure all in itself, when we decided to take a short cut, close to the edge of the Cays. The charts did show some shallow water, but it looked to be doable. And it was, except for one hairy corner where our master mariner Dave went around backwards! Yes, backwards, the reasoning being that if we ran aground, we would have some better thrust in forward gear on our engines to go forward and get us off the sand bank, as reverse thrust is not as powerful. We bumped a few times on the sandy bottom, but slowly edged our way (backwards) around the corner, and then executed an impressive 3 point turn, coming within touching distance of the extremely sharp, jaggered rocks that line the shores of these islands! Fun stuff! There were a few other boats at Hoffman’s, but it seemed that, with the geography of the cay, each boat could have its own little bay and beach to anchor in! Originally we had planned to meet up with Gary and Brenda on Pandion here at Hoffman’s, but with the pending storm, they had decided to also stay in Great Harbor Cay, and go into the marina if necessary. Since we were heading that way to weather the storm, we planned to meet up with them there.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnPp3g6CtyL1LtMDLNAHY_Fgs3Fqjr4G3md07e5vbpDXbBUhyvKgCGGtcu4HwF4mo1hJeHr-33KfdanZtXv0AzYmPaDdp4geBDKiNXWc7v_wgWpdkRtSpY3WvKD5bEu3lmuYJMpw1uOUyh/s1600/getting+to+hoffmans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnPp3g6CtyL1LtMDLNAHY_Fgs3Fqjr4G3md07e5vbpDXbBUhyvKgCGGtcu4HwF4mo1hJeHr-33KfdanZtXv0AzYmPaDdp4geBDKiNXWc7v_wgWpdkRtSpY3WvKD5bEu3lmuYJMpw1uOUyh/s640/getting+to+hoffmans.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting to Hoffman's...executing the 3 point turn and coming rather close to the rocks! A private anchorage with beach for each boat! Cool Runnings at the Hoffman's Cay anchorage as seen from the beach</td></tr>
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There is a “blue hole” (some called it a “black hole”) at Hoffman’s that was quite famous, which we set out to find. After a few wrong paths, we found the correct one, and came upon this hole. It was quite incredible. We saw 3 turtles swimming in it, and wondered how they had gotten there…this deep, landlocked hole, filled with water, in the middle of the island! We decided it had to somehow be connected to the ocean via an underwater tunnel for the turtles to be there. How else could they have gotten there? We hadn’t known what we would find, so we didn’t have our swimming gear with us, and it was late in the day, so we decided to come back the following day to swim in the hole.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUKg7gim4018gxHXjJdjt8phOFhCeKbRKRrR6VKtmg19A5Y6HqW2oI8ghIkpSbuD95tfI28QnKOmwXsgrOpkxeUruqDehGqXg1YNaWLWVLaE7bIZfobiHfg4e9W5KBNf0ye6_ScUQ_IGI3/s1600/DJI_0012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUKg7gim4018gxHXjJdjt8phOFhCeKbRKRrR6VKtmg19A5Y6HqW2oI8ghIkpSbuD95tfI28QnKOmwXsgrOpkxeUruqDehGqXg1YNaWLWVLaE7bIZfobiHfg4e9W5KBNf0ye6_ScUQ_IGI3/s640/DJI_0012.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our drone captures this image of the Blue Hole (the front, round hole), with Cool Runnings anchored off Hoffman's Cay</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGrKJXvLakWmvxZmfGBcggAc2WQJ6VDrRwPmrXX1HS4afDnUbdG3DlB-hX28UmyJDBztXnjtrt1tlcbMZFQZUgDa3VkjFXUY4Ne3kNHPrrXRRhrYrUGOqyAtvArmVmlTs9W0b3Ipajm57/s1600/blue+hole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGrKJXvLakWmvxZmfGBcggAc2WQJ6VDrRwPmrXX1HS4afDnUbdG3DlB-hX28UmyJDBztXnjtrt1tlcbMZFQZUgDa3VkjFXUY4Ne3kNHPrrXRRhrYrUGOqyAtvArmVmlTs9W0b3Ipajm57/s640/blue+hole.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photos of the Blue Hole</td></tr>
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The next day, after school and chores were done, we headed back to the blue/black hole, this time armed with swim suits and snorkels. The first dip revealed cool, clear water. A short dive down into the black depths, revealed hot water!! It was usually the other way around! We had fully expected to feel the water temperature decrease the deeper you dove. But with warm water underneath and cool water on the surface, we could only deduce that it was being fed by thermal vents from within the depths of the earth. How deep the hole actually is, we didn’t know (and have not had the opportunity to research), but it was a weird sensation swimming in this hot/cold water, and not knowing where the bottom was. Being used to swimming in the crystal clear Bahamian waters, and always being able to see the bottom, swimming in this never ending blackness was a little creepy for me! My imagination ran wild thinking of the monsters that lurked below!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLVqd7U-fA9fSo7S8QZk6sLT9WG1fZ2KCv0vvZNt1z4XoLltLNPvo757CWwnFLB8f1bDtPNdvhkUmh1HMqOaudTtY2wuMrAceej9PafUJ4yCnsovHTIV9BqHTZivFRSY4IR6l5TD2UwTAd/s1600/GOPR8511_Moment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLVqd7U-fA9fSo7S8QZk6sLT9WG1fZ2KCv0vvZNt1z4XoLltLNPvo757CWwnFLB8f1bDtPNdvhkUmh1HMqOaudTtY2wuMrAceej9PafUJ4yCnsovHTIV9BqHTZivFRSY4IR6l5TD2UwTAd/s640/GOPR8511_Moment.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The kids are already in the water, coaxing me to get in!</td></tr>
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The kids decided it would be fun to jump from a cliff ledge, perched about 30 feet above the edge, into the water below. Gaby was the first to suggest it, but Dave was the first to jump. Then Gaby got up the courage and jumped. Benjamin was next, and they loved it! They urged me to jump. “C’mon, Mom, you can do it! We all have to jump!”. Ugh…how could I be the scaredy cat? After all, hadn’t I almost sailed around the world? Hadn’t I weathered storms and big seas? Hadn’t I once before bungee jumped (yes, I had!). What’s jumping 30 ft into an inky well of nothingness?! I remember doing this when I was a kid and our family would spend summer holidays at Uvongo on the south coast of Kwa Zulu Natal, about 2 hours drive from our family home in South Africa. There was a cliff we would jump off of into the lagoon below. The higher we could climb and jump, the more fun it was. Strange how age and being a parent changes you from a carefree cliff jumper into an apprehensive, nervous Nellie! My heart was pumping and it took some coaxing from the rest of the family, but I did it…I jumped! And it was fun, but once was enough for me! The kids kept running from our cave below to the ledge on top and jumped a couple of times each, just as I had in Uvongo, so many, many years ago!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqA5G4Xk3UsuxQo19amkTXKExfKnYr7-eIAobqHYID4stEIbrFme9wp6bJNIp2PqOUf23_LJiZDlQeB2stwFiw4GyUeGNJc4lIZLQXMAYFISVetbR_mu0Hb6wKjzJ2AreAAmz0XcDl6ZRF/s1600/jumping.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqA5G4Xk3UsuxQo19amkTXKExfKnYr7-eIAobqHYID4stEIbrFme9wp6bJNIp2PqOUf23_LJiZDlQeB2stwFiw4GyUeGNJc4lIZLQXMAYFISVetbR_mu0Hb6wKjzJ2AreAAmz0XcDl6ZRF/s640/jumping.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben gets ready, looking over the edge....and then jumps! Gaby's view as she looks down at Ben in the water and Mom and Dad looking on...and then she's also in mid-air!</td></tr>
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To get from Hoffman’s Cay to Great Harbor Cay we had to negotiate some very shallow patches. We also had to exit the shelter of the Cays and sail on the “outside” because the inside route was too shallow. We had listened to, and then spoken to, a small boat with a shallower draft than ours, who had attempted the inside route together with another boat the day before, but they both had to turn around after running aground too many times. Just getting to the pass to get out was a challenge, with us having to turn around once, after our keels gently kissed the sand below, and we knew we couldn’t make it any further!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrVAvV6ZUUO6A7CWTLNc6bjWK5o07-ktGN_DukmXIl3nyVV2OFL_8hGxLP25J53cTec1Iq_kOOmbtUjjTSiE21xlOvl5l15C4ULd5ECQOYv3kChNVmed2fN-2dwa_roPb33Ty9eWhAOn1k/s1600/DSC_0700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrVAvV6ZUUO6A7CWTLNc6bjWK5o07-ktGN_DukmXIl3nyVV2OFL_8hGxLP25J53cTec1Iq_kOOmbtUjjTSiE21xlOvl5l15C4ULd5ECQOYv3kChNVmed2fN-2dwa_roPb33Ty9eWhAOn1k/s640/DSC_0700.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shallow, shallow water...but oh, so pretty! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cRTB0Op2LEPJ2bcQYubbIcw-6dkOsN_kDvoO2gkE_pFdURixKIzH1n8JC9-9JCxWcN5veIDmGH0_qb2-TmuvRnxwatCIqKDrMpOVoFJkX5KPrrKdIuAunIe46F_MW-3xLQS2SmcWbggg/s1600/shallow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cRTB0Op2LEPJ2bcQYubbIcw-6dkOsN_kDvoO2gkE_pFdURixKIzH1n8JC9-9JCxWcN5veIDmGH0_qb2-TmuvRnxwatCIqKDrMpOVoFJkX5KPrrKdIuAunIe46F_MW-3xLQS2SmcWbggg/s640/shallow.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave scanning the shallow waters as Gaby stands in the sail bag to get higher up and spots a safe route out</td></tr>
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But once out, we had a great sail around the rest of the islands and over the top of Great Harbor Cay. The very top island is called Small Stirrup Cay, and is used by the cruise ships as a stop over. There was one cruise ship anchored off when we sailed by. Little boats ferried the passengers to and from the ship, while its occupants enjoyed the sandy shores and warm waters of the Cay. Hundreds of umbrellas and chairs lined the beaches and the contrast of what we had just left behind, complete isolation & natural untouched beauty, to what we were seeing now, took a little time to comprehend! But this was their paradise, if not ours, and we realize that we are so very lucky to be able to experience the solitude of the uninhabited islands, to move our little home to wherever we want, whenever we want.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt7o-wBek-9fn5VAJqPLZYeh7msDYiQQHX4wFbda7iMDKj6UiBnAitG7xrrXQB1oq1MqJ_oL3fD6JBat79SSJm8cCxrKpaUgtURr5D1lTQ7Hyo9Ic9cP5m4OiyCTjnZBoEVveXH6a_tpRi/s1600/cruise+ship.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt7o-wBek-9fn5VAJqPLZYeh7msDYiQQHX4wFbda7iMDKj6UiBnAitG7xrrXQB1oq1MqJ_oL3fD6JBat79SSJm8cCxrKpaUgtURr5D1lTQ7Hyo9Ic9cP5m4OiyCTjnZBoEVveXH6a_tpRi/s640/cruise+ship.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cruise ship and its occupants</td></tr>
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Our fishing lines were out and we trawled as we sailed on by. Other than the mackerel we caught just as we were coming into the pass at Bond Cay about a week earlier, we had not had much luck fishing. All of a sudden, we had a fish on the line! Dave reeled it in, and it looked to be a great fish! It was a good size, but we were unable to identify it, and being a little weary of ciguatera poisoning, we decided to let it go. Ciguatera poisoning is quite prevalent in the Florida Keys and the Bahamas and is a result of consuming larger fish that eat the smaller reef fish that eat the coral. Symptoms include nausea, diarrhea, very low blood pressure, joint and other pains and a host of other ailments. It can be dangerous and possibly deadly, depending on the degree of poisoning. About an hour or two later, we had another fish on the line…another great size and good looking fish! We quickly scanned our fish identification books and although we were not 100% sure of the exact type, we were pretty certain it was a snapper, and decided to keep it. Photos were taken and sent to more experienced fishermen (nephews back in Florida) for further identification, and confirmation of its type came back as a mutton snapper…good to eat!! Yay! (Thank you, Ashton!).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw3ulp3tiRdzBxDSNHWMZWRdkFOjWuZPl22oEJmnZQm1Xis4WTSLL6hifm1EepNL4pqPgu2xN9YUjHfk6ot7JtyiY9npqCr8bvT6PQLSLeWmXhflfKtY2inENb5WbLb4vuqMH2lVl13YL5/s1600/fish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw3ulp3tiRdzBxDSNHWMZWRdkFOjWuZPl22oEJmnZQm1Xis4WTSLL6hifm1EepNL4pqPgu2xN9YUjHfk6ot7JtyiY9npqCr8bvT6PQLSLeWmXhflfKtY2inENb5WbLb4vuqMH2lVl13YL5/s640/fish.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave with the catch of the day!</td></tr>
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By this time we were now around the corner and once again in the lee of the island, Great Harbor Cay. All traces of the cruise ship and its passengers were gone, and we were faced with a calm, open bay with only one other boat anchored there. It was the boat we were looking for: s/v Pandion. Gary and Brenda had let us know that they were out on their dinghy, so we knew they were not aboard. We anchored next to them and Dave went about the task of cleaning and filleting the big fish. Not too long after, a dinghy came to our stern. It was Gary and Brenda returning from their excursion! It was so great to see them again after all this time since our brief meeting in the Dry Tortugas just over 2 years ago! Gary also identified our fish as a mutton snapper, and told us that he had had ciguatera poisoning after eating a fish in a restaurant in Nassau a few years prior! He said it took a couple of years for the symptoms to completely go away. If he was happy to eat the snapper after having suffered from ciguatera poisoning, we knew it was definitely fine to eat!! <br />
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Gary and Brenda had invited us to dinner aboard Pandion that evening, so we were happy to be able to contribute! We decided to bring the fish, and Brenda made rice and a green salad, something we had not seen for quite a while!! And of course, we brought the famous bottle of champagne! It turned out that we had so much fun and did so much talking, that we forgot to drink the champagne that night!! It stayed on Pandion until the next night, when we got together again for dinner, this time onboard Cool Runnings. Before our dinner of hot dogs that Gary and Brenda brought over, we finally popped that well-traveled bottle of champagne and toasted to a new friendship borne out of a short dinghy ride to say hi in April 2016!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkV6Nzn9V415xlIR7exRbU2iEecB2AVn6UnB6O2Ns1WBMJ7WDvDGlCC69KS6T_M0Xk1YhJZC9x2zFS1N-6Ulk0FhCZE7I_e3C8pqT-sVLHVVA6lhTML93TRc2ZtopC7lc6UnEoy31gSlF4/s1600/DSC_0761.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1025" data-original-width="1600" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkV6Nzn9V415xlIR7exRbU2iEecB2AVn6UnB6O2Ns1WBMJ7WDvDGlCC69KS6T_M0Xk1YhJZC9x2zFS1N-6Ulk0FhCZE7I_e3C8pqT-sVLHVVA6lhTML93TRc2ZtopC7lc6UnEoy31gSlF4/s640/DSC_0761.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another shot with the now famous bottle of champagne!</td></tr>
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By now, Alberto had made its path more well known, and we looked like we would be spared the brunt of it, as the storm would move into the Gulf of Mexico and up the west coast of Florida and into the pan handle. We cancelled our marina reservations, but decided to stay anchored off Cistern Cay with Pandion and wait for the weather to pass. We had 2 days of torrential rain, and wind gusts up to 30 – 35 knots, but we were sheltered and safe.<br />
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To pass the time, we went on a rain-soaked walk and explored a drug lord’s house that had been abandoned and left to decay. How quickly they abandoned it was evidenced by a car still parked in the garage, now stripped and rusting in the elements. In its day, the house must have been grand, but the termites have ravaged the wooden beams, and the elements have found their way into the house through the holes in the roof. There was even a ramp for a seaplane. How easily they would have been able to smuggle the drugs in and out of the Bahamas back in the day!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDiYn2mwTslTyt6iL5n929QxFErhCmDGoTblT_zZPHlYCkAXWT0gRUvBFrdsn77SKhIqroxRK5S0Z3nPgbzBF8xLHCjZDTVmzMI5X19EYNI8-uCsEhY5bKiPbEYYywDf8fXUPmXgDGdAky/s1600/drug+house.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDiYn2mwTslTyt6iL5n929QxFErhCmDGoTblT_zZPHlYCkAXWT0gRUvBFrdsn77SKhIqroxRK5S0Z3nPgbzBF8xLHCjZDTVmzMI5X19EYNI8-uCsEhY5bKiPbEYYywDf8fXUPmXgDGdAky/s640/drug+house.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A once beautiful house left to decay</td></tr>
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By Monday morning, May 28th, the worst of the storm was over, and, after having said our farewells to Gary and Brenda the evening before, we decided to leave as planned. We had a long day ahead of us, about 80 miles from the Berry Islands to North Cat Cay, the jumping off point for our trip across the Gulf Stream and back home to the United States of America.
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-60148531537484512018-06-01T00:31:00.001-04:002018-06-01T00:31:53.791-04:00We Did It!<b>CIRCUMNAVIGATION</b>: <b>✔ </b>Check! <br />
(<i>or as they say in Australia and South Africa, </i><b>☑</b><i> "tick the box"!</i>)<br />
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Today, May 31st, 2018 at 12.07pm, we crossed our wake in Key West, Florida, officially making the 4 of us circumnavigators! We have been away for just over 2 years, traveled 33,021 nautical miles, visited 39 countries and crossed 3 oceans!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxz2nr_Zvb54uowIYL5YtLQP4PlqMkg4ccevoxUX6rr0cqPwznP0UkglFWz2wA4KgU_rv3ZN7nZ7D8_6I6J-NG1nm6u3tYiOreH37XsfqVRCe3LF0WFcwAhG9MkRSPSKsDlnOHHnBVyYwz/s1600/GOPR8632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="961" data-original-width="1600" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxz2nr_Zvb54uowIYL5YtLQP4PlqMkg4ccevoxUX6rr0cqPwznP0UkglFWz2wA4KgU_rv3ZN7nZ7D8_6I6J-NG1nm6u3tYiOreH37XsfqVRCe3LF0WFcwAhG9MkRSPSKsDlnOHHnBVyYwz/s640/GOPR8632.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Circumnavigators!!</td></tr>
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We also experienced the fastest, easiest and most efficient check-in of our entire journey. The US Department of Homeland Security / Customs and Border Protection have developed an App called "ROAM" for check in. We pre-loaded information about the boat and the crew and uploaded copies of our passports to the app. When we arrived, we created a trip notification, and submitted it. Within seconds, we received an email telling us that our submission was being reviewed, and we should stand by for a video call with an immigration officer. That call came within a minute. We could not see him, but he could see us. He first spoke to David, confirmed where we had been, and asked if we had anything to declare. He then asked to see me, then Benjamin and then Gaby. He greeted each of us and then it was done. He said "Welcome Home"! And that was that. We received a confirmation that we were now officially checked in to the USA. All in the comfort of our own home, over the phone. Brilliant. THE. FASTEST CHECK-IN. EVER!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijctwdHXJ_dx0BPkq-LaPX_YiowR9YTfxEMyeADOjG0Y27ZEaPfU9eIv77Oval-06uSRIvNp6uPxGSIBqEH4uVMnamdMJdpIBBMrRqNcQIxoNE5Sc5Muc1j_QSKqHaplXD9BRzdYWb8Iz4/s1600/IMG20180531124226.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="948" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijctwdHXJ_dx0BPkq-LaPX_YiowR9YTfxEMyeADOjG0Y27ZEaPfU9eIv77Oval-06uSRIvNp6uPxGSIBqEH4uVMnamdMJdpIBBMrRqNcQIxoNE5Sc5Muc1j_QSKqHaplXD9BRzdYWb8Iz4/s320/IMG20180531124226.jpg" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A screenshot from Dave's phone immediately after our video call..we're officially home!</td></tr>
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We also decided to treat ourselves and stay in a marina for one night. We had a number of things we needed to get done, and being at a marina was helpful. The boat got a really good scrub down, inside and out. I did 5 loads of washing at the marina laundry: bedding, towels, blankets, mats, clothes...everything got a good, hot wash and tumble dry! Dave got a US SIM card for his phone, so we have a local number. And we each had a big, fat cheeseburger and fries for lunch! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzEtOBcSSmDMOjTd1kjFcniVet52j3FfDXoiewwJZHROrx4TVI29ePsBzG6IPseDenUoYThzqt5vyYusrM5NwydC_e8FbuWfMVhYPiEQuCsLUfQ17K21QDeIT_QLyCAZVr8QGZl6aYa8QB/s1600/key+west+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1199" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzEtOBcSSmDMOjTd1kjFcniVet52j3FfDXoiewwJZHROrx4TVI29ePsBzG6IPseDenUoYThzqt5vyYusrM5NwydC_e8FbuWfMVhYPiEQuCsLUfQ17K21QDeIT_QLyCAZVr8QGZl6aYa8QB/s400/key+west+%25281%2529.jpg" width="397" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool Runnings gets a well-deserved break at a dock. She's taken us safely around the world!<br />Celebrating our accomplishment and enjoying our American sized cheeseburgers!</td></tr>
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We plan to take another 2 weeks before docking back at home. Weather dependent, we will spend the next couple of days at the Dry Tortugas, which was also our first stop on this trip two years ago. We will then slowly make our way up the west coast of Florida, and plan to dock at our home in Madeira Beach on Saturday, June 16th!<br />
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I have a few more blog posts to do before then...an update on our time in the Berry Islands in the Bahamas, the rest of our journey home, and a cool story about a bottle that went around the world...stay tuned for that!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGwRF8PySe_LOyQlPaDEyt0rEPqBVAjSOaOxKtfIdTb3B2lXB-S8K746MaiL2pMqN-GylOmBOr_AaMhd8-2OxbEFi9C0CICaeRDsqRJNZzxQqieH92sXzvdlq07EKtb8eaCZhKiAVbwMi/s1600/circling-around-world-14770561.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="762" data-original-width="800" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGwRF8PySe_LOyQlPaDEyt0rEPqBVAjSOaOxKtfIdTb3B2lXB-S8K746MaiL2pMqN-GylOmBOr_AaMhd8-2OxbEFi9C0CICaeRDsqRJNZzxQqieH92sXzvdlq07EKtb8eaCZhKiAVbwMi/s400/circling-around-world-14770561.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We Did It!<br /></td></tr>
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<br />Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-84655822351520768372018-05-25T11:21:00.000-04:002018-05-25T11:21:22.386-04:00Cool Runnings Special Report: PlasticCool Runnings is currently in the Berry Islands, a small, remote group of islands in the Bahamas. On the one end of the string of islands is Great Harbor Cay, where there is a marina and a small settlement. On the other end, on Chub Cay, there is another marina, where many of the big sports fishing boats go when they come over from the USA to go Bonefish fishing in the Bahamas. In between, there's a whole lot of nothing...which is what we love. The little islands (Cays), are uninhabited, wild and solitary.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ciighCYyvgjSgwgf4CEX5xsAFBX4yzm5mgevxf_1LasuMCpvUB2HIODBG6466P0xObjL1HFPIG1kt4R20h-_COeZNABnCz7IFsefCxvRaHd2h4HBMpzoRAqxdMtfpk3LRNl_I3gsqxc4/s1600/Berry+Islands2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ciighCYyvgjSgwgf4CEX5xsAFBX4yzm5mgevxf_1LasuMCpvUB2HIODBG6466P0xObjL1HFPIG1kt4R20h-_COeZNABnCz7IFsefCxvRaHd2h4HBMpzoRAqxdMtfpk3LRNl_I3gsqxc4/s400/Berry+Islands2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A few days ago, we anchored off Little Harbor Cay, about half way between Great Harbor Cay and Chub Cay. We had gone exploring on our dinghy and found a path that led to the beach on the ocean side of the small island. At first sight, it was beautiful: rugged, wild, unspoiled. But as we looked closer, and walked down onto the beach, we saw the reality. Plastic everywhere! It was not the first time we had seen it, but somehow, it just suddenly really made an impact on the kids. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaI5KcVfOrzXjBodqlfTd2SEhOERcx7G3uNEnjf5V1MDh-7jQxGBCD1ZZb9bti2LxohdBdNp8SAVJaiVFfe9z_YYLg0jwj-BQC6UgoZx3GxT79h9XV_ODziLuZ1NGSRZQOmr0lNJVd0REC/s1600/plastic+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaI5KcVfOrzXjBodqlfTd2SEhOERcx7G3uNEnjf5V1MDh-7jQxGBCD1ZZb9bti2LxohdBdNp8SAVJaiVFfe9z_YYLg0jwj-BQC6UgoZx3GxT79h9XV_ODziLuZ1NGSRZQOmr0lNJVd0REC/s640/plastic+beach.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plastic Beach: From afar it looks beautiful, but close up, the pollution is heart breaking</td></tr>
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We decided that the following day, the school assignment would be to write a report on what they had seen, how it made them feel, and what could be done about it. I am pasting both Ben and Gaby's unedited reports below. We encourage you to read them, and share them, especially with kids. The problem seems overwhelming, and often you feel that you, as one person, can't possibly make a difference. But we strongly believe that if each and every person just makes an effort, the effect will snowball, and the impact will be great! I have lots to say on this subject, but this post is about how our children reacted to it, and they are the future, so what they think and how they react, is critical. <br />
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<span style="font-family: "AR DARLING"; font-size: 36.0pt;">Plastic Oceans<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">By
Benjamin Hibberd<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Yesterday I
walked along the sea shore, looking at the beauty of the ocean… and the heaps
of plastic covering its shores.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are
in the Berry Islands, a small group of islands in the Bahamas, and yesterday we
took a walk to the ocean side of an island that we were anchored off of.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The amount of plastic on the shore was
staggering.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I saw tires, sunscreen
bottles, fishing nets, oil containers, light bulbs, and hundreds and hundreds of
bits and pieces of broken down plastics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was saddening to see such a beautiful coastline polluted. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>This is not the first place we have
seen it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having almost completed our
circumnavigation, we have been to many different places and have sadly seen it
almost everywhere. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The worst of it being
Indonesia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here, rivers were used as
trash cans, and the people didn’t even think twice about littering!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The streets and gutters were brimming with
trash, and the beautiful landscape was so polluted that the entire place looked
like a trash heap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And for the rest of
our time in the Indian Ocean we saw evidence of this problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact, we saw it in every ocean we
crossed:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the Pacfic, the Indian and the
Atlantic Oceans.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even in Chagos (in the
Indian Ocean), one of the most remote places on earth, and completely
uninhabited, we found rubber flip-flops, plastic bottles, and fishing buoys and
nets, on the otherwise pristine beaches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We picked up what we could and had bonfires to burn it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Seeing all of this pollution saddens
me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think about the effect it has on
our environment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have seen so many
turtles on our travels and love watching them, but since some turtles’ main
diet is jellyfish, many of them mistake plastic bags for jellyfish and eat them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over time plastic breaks down into smaller
and smaller pieces until it becomes plankton sized micro-plastic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wonder what effect this has on whales, who
get their food by filtering through the water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Seabirds are also effected by plastic. They either eat fish who have
ingested plastic in their bloodstream, or mistake a piece of plastic for a
fish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They can get tangled in fishing
line and plastic six-pack rings. When we catch fish we wonder how much plastic
we are in fact eating!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>What can we do about this terrible
substance known as plastic?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For starters
we can follow the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">four</i> R’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’re probably familiar with the three R’s,
“reduce, reuse, recycle” but there is another part that is key to this
cycle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>REFUSE!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Refuse plastic straws, refuse to buy plastic
bottles or containers, and refuse the store’s plastic bags…bring your own
reusable bag to the store!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Use or buy glass
when possible! Spread the word!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tell
your friends and family how they can help reduce plastic usage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The more people are educated on the problem,
the more chance we have of stopping this once and for all!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Don’t feel like you can’t make a difference!
Together we can and will make a difference! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">must</i>
make a difference, or we face looking out onto plastic oceans… <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiocWH0nSPO5gf2ksdJRsHg8_8nyEy59qaCM1-eOicTgGMpI-u3O4rq-PPC6S5axkdJb4llhbhE4ugXc1jNS3LduKatZEt5Q2iC8UHX4pJXTvp-_tFJJLhHW0wpqsdAzMgTvw31cPB0Wa2l/s1600/DSC_0603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiocWH0nSPO5gf2ksdJRsHg8_8nyEy59qaCM1-eOicTgGMpI-u3O4rq-PPC6S5axkdJb4llhbhE4ugXc1jNS3LduKatZEt5Q2iC8UHX4pJXTvp-_tFJJLhHW0wpqsdAzMgTvw31cPB0Wa2l/s640/DSC_0603.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pieces of plastic make for a colorful, but saddening mosaic in the dried seaweed on the beach</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjQE8iEaLY3hB2VUxk_GWqmSja06qZcfqGh_rQQkslGmXLVgUGCT2PMpZprGrQmKveFvaZzBF0E9lGrYEgsBKwDZmuOyfkeA6B4iVs5D97il6QUa9C_aE-w5Klnhz7Ew5sfxqJyFg2jIp/s1600/plastic+on+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjQE8iEaLY3hB2VUxk_GWqmSja06qZcfqGh_rQQkslGmXLVgUGCT2PMpZprGrQmKveFvaZzBF0E9lGrYEgsBKwDZmuOyfkeA6B4iVs5D97il6QUa9C_aE-w5Klnhz7Ew5sfxqJyFg2jIp/s640/plastic+on+beach.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This huge fishing net (top) stretched all the way to where Dave and Ben are standing (they are holding up the end of it). You can only imagine the turtles, birds and fish that can get caught in this when it is floating freely in the ocean. Bottom left: the plastic breaks down into tiny pieces, making clean up difficult, and ingestion by sea animals easy. We found a big part of the problem was from fishing paraphernalia: fishing nets, especially the nylon type, buoys and rope</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Impact",sans-serif; font-size: 28.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Plastic
Planet<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Impact",sans-serif; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> BY
Gaby Hibberd<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> Plastic is a <b>huge</b> problem. Sailing around the world for 2 ½ years has truly
opened my eyes to how much trash is really out there and getting thrown, blown,
and washed in the ocean every second. I am writing this because I want people
to be aware of this problem that we all face, and that we can only fix together.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 24.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">How
does it get there?<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> Small pieces of trash tossed into the street
are often washed down storm drains during rain storms, which deposits the water –
and the trash – into the sea. Rivers and other waterways can also wash into our
bays and oceans. Then with the help of ocean currents, that trash gets traveled
around the ocean and deposited somewhere else, with animals such as birds and
fish eating some of it along the way. </span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-font-family: "Book Antiqua"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Book Antiqua"; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">L</span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "AR JULIAN"; font-size: 14pt;">The contents of a seabird’s stomach: plastic.</span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 24.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 24.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">The
real awakening…<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> Ever since I was little I was aware of
garbage and pollution. But this trip around the world has opened my eyes to the
frightening truth. Indonesia was particularly scary of how much plastic was
produced by the 266,794,980 people living there. In one town called Wera, we
were walking on a bridge and looked down to see the river below us. But there
was no water at all. It was a river completely filled with hundreds of bags of
trash. It seems that that “river” was where the town dumped its trash. When it
rained, all the plastic would get washed out into the sea and “disappear” from
the town so they didn’t have to worry about it anymore.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKw9x7top4EB4QB2ugHfDPgsBoDYiDNnBn0BU1CHBm-tpdikmOHKDT1z7OaGkvoQWwpYJ32IlKC1lBOW-qmGZ0NEvFgX9NKZ2_eIwOzHdY2GXBup8j1_NXfk0GF38OtKuPGwBnBOfgSsMd/s1600/indo+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="468" data-original-width="720" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKw9x7top4EB4QB2ugHfDPgsBoDYiDNnBn0BU1CHBm-tpdikmOHKDT1z7OaGkvoQWwpYJ32IlKC1lBOW-qmGZ0NEvFgX9NKZ2_eIwOzHdY2GXBup8j1_NXfk0GF38OtKuPGwBnBOfgSsMd/s400/indo+beach.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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visibility:visible;mso-wrap-style:square'>
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o:title="Indonesia Beaches"/>
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<span style="font-family: "AR JULIAN"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Indonesian Beaches… </span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-font-family: "AR JULIAN"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "AR JULIAN"; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">L</span><span style="font-family: "AR JULIAN"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">We once went to a beautiful bay on the coast
of Flores in Indonesia. We swam in the beautiful water and watched some little
boys paddle around on their wooden boats. They came by our boat and said hello,
and then my mom gave them each a lollipop. They paddled away saying thank you
and eating their lollipops. I was devastated when I saw them throw their
lollipop wrappers in the water. I tried to swim after them and tell them not to
do that, but they spoke very little English and didn’t understand. It just shows
that you have to educate people for them to know not to create bad habits like
what I had just experienced. I have countless stories of experiences like that,
but it would get boring telling them all.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 24.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Single-use-plastics<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> There are many things you can do to stop the
use of plastic. For example, refuse that straw in your drink, or skip that
little tasting spoon on your ice-cream cone, because you will end up throwing
these all away after using it <b>once. </b>These
are called single-use-plastics. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> Instead of buying plastic one-time-use water
bottles, use a reusable metal one. The water that comes from a plastic water
bottle is the same water that comes from your tap. Also, try and by foods with
less packaging on them when you go grocery shopping.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 24.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Microplastics
& microbeads<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 22.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></i><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Plastic is <b>everywhere.
</b>A lot of it ends up in the ocean. Most plastics in the ocean break up into
very small particles. These small plastic bits are called “microplastics.”
Other plastics are intentionally designed to be small. They’re called
microbeads and they are used in many health and beauty products. They pass
unchanged through waterways into the ocean. Aquatic life and birds can mistake
microplastics for food. Avoid microbeads
in health and beauty products, because when you wash it down the drain, it
leads to the ocean. Fish eat the microbeads, and then we eat the fish. Fish are
becoming toxic, because they are eating these plastics, and if we don’t do
something about it, <b>by 2050 people who
regularly eat seafood will have plastic in their blood streams…<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "AR JULIAN"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">A baby turtle mistaking plastic for food<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 24.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">The
Facts<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ There are 5.25 trillion
pieces of plastic debris in the ocean </span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-font-family: "Book Antiqua"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Book Antiqua"; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">L</span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ By 2050 there will be more
plastic than fish in the ocean if we don’t do something about it<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ The equivalent of one
garbage truck full of trash is getting dumped in the ocean <b>every minute<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ 2.5 billion Disposable
cups are thrown away in the UK annually<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ 1 billion toothbrushes are
thrown away in the USA – that is enough to span the globe x4<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ 500 million plastic straws
are used <b><i>daily</i></b> in the USA<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ Of the 260 million tons of
plastic the world produces each year, about 10% ends up in the ocean<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ Over 100,000 marine
mammals and 1,000,000 seabirds die each year from ingestion or entanglement in
plastic litter<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ A plastic bottle will last
for more than 450 years if left on a bench<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ Over the last 10 years we
have produced more plastic than during the whole of the last century<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ 50% of the plastic we use,
we use just once and throw away<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ China, Indonesia, the
Philippines, Thailand, and Vietnam are spewing out as much as 60% of the
plastic waste that enters the world’s seas<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ Enough plastic is thrown
away each year to circle the Earth 4 times<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">~ Every piece of plastic
ever made is still around today<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 24.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">What
you can do to help </span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 24.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-font-family: "Book Antiqua"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: "Book Antiqua"; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span></b><b><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 24.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Bring your own shopping bag.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Use a reusable water bottle
instead of multiple plastic ones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Pack your picnics in
reusable containers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Say NO to plastic straws and
disposable cutlery.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Do not use products with
microbeads found in face wash, soaps, and toothpaste.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Use biodegradable sunscreen
that does not contain oxybenzone – a chemical that kills coral.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Buy products with less
packaging on them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Refuse, Reduce, Reuse,
Recycle! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-87454954622223804182018-05-19T18:33:00.001-04:002018-05-19T18:33:54.645-04:00Exquisite Exumas<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUkUjwehvI4pCm1yfpbuE6KQyjFB0WSpK1F6b1WQysmzWpPyokbcf-ROWmIainhfV4Q0_WxhVcx45zX0lmmATMf_ex33FaBENcg9cbULPE52o1OhVFGlMkrVbmrEo1HcIgrYi-nR_loW2/s1600/exumas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUkUjwehvI4pCm1yfpbuE6KQyjFB0WSpK1F6b1WQysmzWpPyokbcf-ROWmIainhfV4Q0_WxhVcx45zX0lmmATMf_ex33FaBENcg9cbULPE52o1OhVFGlMkrVbmrEo1HcIgrYi-nR_loW2/s400/exumas.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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We saw these words on a wall at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, and thought that they captured the essence of the Exumas perfectly. Even though the weather has been terrible, with primarily cloudy, windy, overcast days with plenty of rain and thunderstorms, during the few moments when the sun did peek out, we saw the beauty of the Exumas. Although we have not seen the rest of the Bahamas to make a comparison, we can’t imagine them being more stunning than the Exumas. We feel blessed to have this beautiful playground basically on our doorstep, and can’t believe that we had never before made the short trip over from Florida. Maybe it’s a good thing we hadn’t been here before…we may never have left on our circumnavigation! Out of all the places we have now seen sailing around the world, the Exumas are right up there as one of the most beautiful!<br />
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We left Norman’s Cay on Friday, May 4th, having said our farewells to Moby the night before. It was a strong north east wind that blew that day, the perfect direction we needed to head back south, and with 2 reefs in the main, and about 60% jib out, we were fine to handle the often 30+ knot winds that came our way. It took us about 5 or 6 hours to sail back to Black Point, a small settlement along a nice, protected anchorage on Great Guana Cay. There was some not-so-nice weather coming, and we wanted to be secure to hunker down for a few days. And hunker we did! We spent a windy, rainy weekend at Black Point, catching up on all things that needed internet, as we now had access again! When there was a break in the rain, we took the dinghy ashore and explored the small town.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-kjrha6mP2mEjU6valruMr9MJQlEHvkN27FUByVWIa8n9JJMKD1MyocRvWKni95q46_TxmYLui54ie0LXkMg1KrqJD59Gu3QO60ZrDGz8M1OXzIYI_Pl_IxZ1GS1v_he8SmMY2YKjEAw7/s1600/blackpoint.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-kjrha6mP2mEjU6valruMr9MJQlEHvkN27FUByVWIa8n9JJMKD1MyocRvWKni95q46_TxmYLui54ie0LXkMg1KrqJD59Gu3QO60ZrDGz8M1OXzIYI_Pl_IxZ1GS1v_he8SmMY2YKjEAw7/s640/blackpoint.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top: Ben and Dave walk down the one and only street in Black Point; Middle: the clinic (it was closed), one of the boats we had seen racing at the Island Family Regatta in George Town, and Gaby and Dave take in the view of Exuma Sound from the top of Great Guana Cay</td></tr>
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When Monday morning came around, we decided it was time to move on. The weather was still not great, but it showed no signs of improving, and we couldn’t stay in Black Point forever! Next on our agenda was Staniel Cay, just a few miles further north. As we headed in that direction, the weather seemed to improve a little, and by the time we anchored near “Thunderball Grotto”, the sun made one of its rare appearances! Thunderball Grotto is a spectacular skylit underwater cave that has featured in several movies, one of them being the James Bond movie, Thunderball. We were excited to snorkel there, as we had heard a lot about it from both SandStar and Moby. We were dreading the many tourists and tour boats, but luck shone upon us, and when we arrived, we were the only ones there! Having the Grotto all to ourselves was wonderful, and only a few people arrived during the time we were there. There are numerous way to enter, and we found one, where we dove under the rock through a tunnel, and when you came up the other side, you were in the cave! The fish were glad to see us, obviously used to being fed by the many visitors, but we didn’t bring any food for them. They still hung around in hopes of finding a scrap or two, but soon went about their business as usual. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBjFZDJLejZGBGuSPl3JhrXredph2bfNK6J0v2JOfzo_iC4tIUSzzyMWG1nD02Q6utVVxXh5cKDjCsvvhmu5fbigTbJvqy8-rpCCsbd-aH4k_rfYHgeSsgBZc31bJrfi_ncE8gAhyphenhyphenB-f7F/s1600/GOPR7869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBjFZDJLejZGBGuSPl3JhrXredph2bfNK6J0v2JOfzo_iC4tIUSzzyMWG1nD02Q6utVVxXh5cKDjCsvvhmu5fbigTbJvqy8-rpCCsbd-aH4k_rfYHgeSsgBZc31bJrfi_ncE8gAhyphenhyphenB-f7F/s640/GOPR7869.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby enters the grotto through one of the entrances, making a striking image.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjok0CJ5v-L7BPTab6PkeHY0Q64c-hSW1bHBQkBsdH4jvIw3bbAbzEOPYCeUUbUpX0wRB0iYFxEHpTn2C5Wx3XjRXSVpMAtQJNIuhTySitLX-UDRPMsCmqwZRlEra_DycbDm_cQMQyOcwZD/s1600/grotto2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjok0CJ5v-L7BPTab6PkeHY0Q64c-hSW1bHBQkBsdH4jvIw3bbAbzEOPYCeUUbUpX0wRB0iYFxEHpTn2C5Wx3XjRXSVpMAtQJNIuhTySitLX-UDRPMsCmqwZRlEra_DycbDm_cQMQyOcwZD/s640/grotto2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Ben enters through another, narrower one, inside the grotto, you can see the skylight, and the fish swim merrily in and out</td></tr>
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Once our snorkeling expedition was done, we moved Cool Runnings around the corner to Big Majors Spot, another big bay, and secure anchorage for the wind direction we were expecting. But the weather has a mind of its own, and during the night, the rain poured down, the thunder rolled and the wind blew…from the west. We found ourselves on a lee shore, facing into the waves that were rolling in from the Exuma Bank. It was a rough night, but our anchor was secure, which was the main thing. The following day was still grey and rainy and for a while, the wind still blew from the west. We considered moving and finding a better anchorage, but anchorages with shelter from the west are few and far between in the Exumas, and since we were only mildly uncomfortable, we stayed, and soon conditions improved. It rained all day, and only late in the afternoon, after being sequestered on the boat all day, did we finally have enough and we launched the dinghy. Although it was raining on and off, we went exploring, through a narrow cut at Fowl’s Cay resort where we watched as the current pulled us and then turned us in the many whirlpools that were created!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGbdSmUVpBPlMnrzZkEclMGYLzkfgatzS_kuQadz1HMO0u96nBwFgHAJ2bE01FpNA4TZV_tDzB2P-ygvI1kdNFY-9cKqbSFh-ha8mZ_amGJNIeCoXzEubWoOcLvtDuEA2jFm7v3THZkjO6/s1600/staniel+outing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGbdSmUVpBPlMnrzZkEclMGYLzkfgatzS_kuQadz1HMO0u96nBwFgHAJ2bE01FpNA4TZV_tDzB2P-ygvI1kdNFY-9cKqbSFh-ha8mZ_amGJNIeCoXzEubWoOcLvtDuEA2jFm7v3THZkjO6/s640/staniel+outing.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The current rips, pulling us in the dinghy. Even in the grey weather, the landscape is quite beautiful, the water still crystal clear</td></tr>
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Big Majors Spot is the place where the famous swimming pigs are located. The kids and I had been so excited to see these swimming pigs…and I’ll go on record as saying we were sorely disappointed! We’d seen plenty of videos that made it look like they were all over the Bahamas, in the most remote locations, no other boats or people around, swimming happily up to the boat. Not so. There are some big, fat pigs on the beach, that is aptly named “Pig Beach”, but they know they are going to be fed by the stream of boats bringing tourists to see them, and if you’re lucky, you’ll get a pig to go knee deep in water to take a carrot from you, if you wait long enough, and dangle it long enough. But we were here, and a visit to Pig Beach was sort of mandatory.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiajPO59yHfvmbdDDmcV_ZpkRnR0ItZ4o1e-aDsbNOgfOSixgZl3nDY2CJGSBC334opVBQG63JsL6RIlr1LLfmWcPdDnz5j0pZ-9j2fyWnYYPuntJnUmbdOldGtGjofCYnuq3a4FKhLlsSC/s1600/DSC_0309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiajPO59yHfvmbdDDmcV_ZpkRnR0ItZ4o1e-aDsbNOgfOSixgZl3nDY2CJGSBC334opVBQG63JsL6RIlr1LLfmWcPdDnz5j0pZ-9j2fyWnYYPuntJnUmbdOldGtGjofCYnuq3a4FKhLlsSC/s640/DSC_0309.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hi Big Piggy</td></tr>
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So after our little exploration trip on the dinghy, we took along our “expired” vegetables, and went ashore at Pig Beach. Because of the time of day, and the weather, there was no one else there. A small, brown pig came up to greet us, to see what we had to offer. I had some sweet potato that I had hung on to for too long, that was now more suited to pig food. A much larger pig then ambled up and also enjoyed some sweet potato. And that was probably the extent of our “swimming” pig visit. We watched with fascination the next morning, when the weather was a little better, as boat upon boat arrived with their guests: our favourite name was “swimmingpigtours.com”. We even heard the one guide tell his guests: “You’ve paid a lot of money to see swimming pigs, so make them come to you. You can feed pigs on a farm, but you can only make them swim here. So stay in the boat, make them come to you”…and so on. Poor Pigs…<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrWgYe1Xpzw5QX_cIhamFS12-id7p6-e3BW_CkAfTtw2aBuEQjChnJN_j8K6M8KW7Lg-ntM89FbA7yG2avwkH7WSvv2fyI0LefRt_Ol0UxYRalYW5XjaJUOgbUW-tWSEH4CqbA56ZvNNzW/s1600/pigs+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrWgYe1Xpzw5QX_cIhamFS12-id7p6-e3BW_CkAfTtw2aBuEQjChnJN_j8K6M8KW7Lg-ntM89FbA7yG2avwkH7WSvv2fyI0LefRt_Ol0UxYRalYW5XjaJUOgbUW-tWSEH4CqbA56ZvNNzW/s640/pigs+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pigs on Pig Beach</td></tr>
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The weather the next day, Wednesday, May 9th, was looking a little better and Thunderball Grotto was calling our names! We all really wanted to snorkel there one more time, so we left Big Majors Spot, and went back around the corner to Thunderball Grotto. Perhaps because we are late in the season, or because someone was feeling bad about all the bad weather being sent our way, but we had the Grotto to ourselves again! We relished in the solitude of the place, and enjoyed swimming around one last time. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPzzcBExncYkeFrXHwMRtCz3PC4KWIK7FxvoAUvNDfKjHwj0MmeokFoAWUDMRi-MEejpIgjeJQpsSFc5epQIG3Uq2ILh9pYntVjvf_QE3FKCNL2DMM2sHBl-5m-vgF-h-QwY6N2ecDg3Zy/s1600/grotto4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPzzcBExncYkeFrXHwMRtCz3PC4KWIK7FxvoAUvNDfKjHwj0MmeokFoAWUDMRi-MEejpIgjeJQpsSFc5epQIG3Uq2ILh9pYntVjvf_QE3FKCNL2DMM2sHBl-5m-vgF-h-QwY6N2ecDg3Zy/s640/grotto4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave snorkels through the north underwater entrance to the cave; So many fish!;Iinside the grotto; Family selfie inside Thunderball Grotto!</td></tr>
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We then took the dinghy over to the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, the happening place on Staniel Cay. A short walk beyond the boundries of the Yacht Club proved it was really the only place on Staniel Cay! We found a church, a small grocery store, and a few small guest cottages, but that was about it! Moby had vouched for the burgers at the Yacht Club, so as a treat, we decided to have a late lunch there. The food was great (any food I don’t have to cook is AWESOME!).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ1dNwBHc8iFXr5Ss0IbUj-Dd98ZswyBEj4pxrLu8wq-piWSJxKvU5gd7OePxOFWWQo9gtu0VoHq1od-whdXUpTlPTjllcjQkFnLjvmU0VdZWZIQsCv-fIYfx7L2aucaOSJ3SZJc7rSn7T/s1600/staniel+cay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ1dNwBHc8iFXr5Ss0IbUj-Dd98ZswyBEj4pxrLu8wq-piWSJxKvU5gd7OePxOFWWQo9gtu0VoHq1od-whdXUpTlPTjllcjQkFnLjvmU0VdZWZIQsCv-fIYfx7L2aucaOSJ3SZJc7rSn7T/s640/staniel+cay.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the Yacht Club and Staniel Cay from the water; The Yacht Club dinghy dock/beach; A walk around the town revealed some lovely old trees and beautiful flowers; The Yacht Club napkin and the Church at Staniel Cay</td></tr>
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After our late lunch, we upped anchor and slowly wound our way through the shallow waters between Big Majors and Little Majors, past North Gaulin Cay and Fowl Cay Resort, and finally past Dennis Cay and dropped anchor for the night at Sampson Cay. It was a great day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvwtqsrUMUnUd4G0ihEOpnqzPxDZspNNOT1u1unbfZzdd30cgK9X9DN5pBLHZRXyoCkKW5ZACVqYp5F3wsKaSFMSfmc3wvmHKWspbEw9F-zAAtd0DR8lygls3XaP5O92QcUDyGOXQuDxW2/s1600/IMG20180518181422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvwtqsrUMUnUd4G0ihEOpnqzPxDZspNNOT1u1unbfZzdd30cgK9X9DN5pBLHZRXyoCkKW5ZACVqYp5F3wsKaSFMSfmc3wvmHKWspbEw9F-zAAtd0DR8lygls3XaP5O92QcUDyGOXQuDxW2/s640/IMG20180518181422.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The chart of Staniel Cay and surrounding area: The circle at Fowl Cay Resort shows where we took the dinghy through with the very strong current; the circle at Big Majors Spot is where we anchored for 2 nights: so with the wind coming from the west (or the left as we are looking at it), you can see there's no protection! The pigs were on the beach in the corner just above the word "Majors". The circle around the small islands indicated the position of Thunderball Grotto, and then Staniel Cay Yacht Club and the small settlement of Staniel Cay's position is also circled. <br />On this chart you can also see the route described above (Dennis Cay is right at the top and cut off)</td></tr>
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Having enjoyed our little sojourn through the shallow, narrow channels the day before, and with the day (Thursday, May 10th), again looking somewhat promising on the weather front, we decided to thread our way through the narrow channels from Sampson Cay up to Compass Cay. It was delightful, and although lookouts on both bows were needed most of the time, to spot for coral heads or shallow water, it was beautiful, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. We picked a beautiful spot between Pipe Cay and Compass Cay and dropped our anchor in crystal clear, shallow water.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxQmi3XXl54FxLtDjvxXwoKLammvvGIWECOCnk1SOuCdIkn-71U6LaHjmWDw9frYYltBwJfiZHPuZW3E7DT1dIVqngx4jqjQsWbgg57Gtq1eLiwuwJNJSLEjlYjeDUoSMi9X1BdymJXH85/s1600/On+the+way+to+Compass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxQmi3XXl54FxLtDjvxXwoKLammvvGIWECOCnk1SOuCdIkn-71U6LaHjmWDw9frYYltBwJfiZHPuZW3E7DT1dIVqngx4jqjQsWbgg57Gtq1eLiwuwJNJSLEjlYjeDUoSMi9X1BdymJXH85/s640/On+the+way+to+Compass.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making our way to Compass Cay. It's so beautiful when the sun shines!! Checking the depths en route...when you have a 4ft draft and the depth meter reads 4.1ft, you know you don't have a lot of wiggle room!</td></tr>
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We spent the afternoon swimming and snorkeling around the boat, the kids having a blast doing I don’t know what, but enjoying themselves tremendously for hours in the water! Sun-downers were enjoyed on the deck...this is what it was all about!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmnc3HOokw7JFlfozP6WPabunQjCZvaQ5V6sAJx0NaTlzYMxNY1H5cfgZ4JGr5gO4iZbz94B_77tY2aakHy7xdFF9YGkGYI3t8MmLB8nQvnxmerTavfJd9JbB0xqZCxV70DdqC2q3-MHU_/s1600/compass1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmnc3HOokw7JFlfozP6WPabunQjCZvaQ5V6sAJx0NaTlzYMxNY1H5cfgZ4JGr5gO4iZbz94B_77tY2aakHy7xdFF9YGkGYI3t8MmLB8nQvnxmerTavfJd9JbB0xqZCxV70DdqC2q3-MHU_/s640/compass1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave and Gaby check the anchor; the water is so crystal clear, it blends right into the sky; diving to the sandy bottom; Ahhh...yes please!</td></tr>
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The following morning, after watching a nasty storm pass by, Dave flew the drone, and got some amazing footage of the area.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkjM9Vgv71CdYyfEuqMCJYZuZ48NDKnNlcv79gvUO-XApRzC0fv5bAY7bDwpw6mLVEyiKO9wcD_0217G92OD1CKqJvaPRm2vUm25EZuR5vNEhIzkt0XBwDfDXFXBiRjMekJ6E-3hZ2uNu/s1600/Storm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkjM9Vgv71CdYyfEuqMCJYZuZ48NDKnNlcv79gvUO-XApRzC0fv5bAY7bDwpw6mLVEyiKO9wcD_0217G92OD1CKqJvaPRm2vUm25EZuR5vNEhIzkt0XBwDfDXFXBiRjMekJ6E-3hZ2uNu/s640/Storm.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The storm approaches</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwtVdyY83XXav1sSZ7KDVoCr-q96INATDn2dcEUj6XdS1qbaPpn94t6sd4x9HD5tQwcj9zbaTlHlFx2TxLorFBSwH8O34ZvPELLPHbpM9kMfzh8vbwsM6KBJiULKwKi7PAvaZrXCiCjd_R/s1600/DJI_0029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwtVdyY83XXav1sSZ7KDVoCr-q96INATDn2dcEUj6XdS1qbaPpn94t6sd4x9HD5tQwcj9zbaTlHlFx2TxLorFBSwH8O34ZvPELLPHbpM9kMfzh8vbwsM6KBJiULKwKi7PAvaZrXCiCjd_R/s640/DJI_0029.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The water is so clear, the "blemish" you see on the bottom right, is a patch of rock under the water</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYbvPYY9u4Y7Lef0W3Nm5_v7x7_19S-cYsKMYYTA33HVl_5yM6OEhVq6sBOBWI2ggAiG3XrEb_J4yvC4ZtSH6SAROxUXhjMggcn8SKLAr-tWWngVYHH0_QHGFI6vs8O2iiHEiF0VwUP8oN/s1600/drone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYbvPYY9u4Y7Lef0W3Nm5_v7x7_19S-cYsKMYYTA33HVl_5yM6OEhVq6sBOBWI2ggAiG3XrEb_J4yvC4ZtSH6SAROxUXhjMggcn8SKLAr-tWWngVYHH0_QHGFI6vs8O2iiHEiF0VwUP8oN/s640/drone.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few more images captured by the drone</td></tr>
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It was now Friday, May 11th, and time to move on again. We edged our way out of channel at Compass Cay and headed to Fowl Cay ready to snorkel on the “Rocky Dundas”, two more grottos we had heard about. We approached the beautiful anchorage at Fowl Cay (different from the Fowl Cay at Staniel Cay!), and anchored a bit off the beach with 2 other boats already there. Fowl Cay is a private island, and we were not allowed to go ashore there. We lowered the dinghy and headed over to the “Rocky Dundas”, where we found dinghy moorings and secured the dinghy. We had heard that these grottos were just as spectacular as the Thunderall Grotto, but maybe we caught them on a bad day. There was a lot of surge, and it was difficut to enter them. Although spectacular in their own way, we still thought Thunderball was much nicer! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5l1pPrP7-LrBKMnHR6KkPUH4kZbLep5nfSta-baQi1e-vUt5haO3bJBoMd-tzB-MnX0h5ccYkPLwZ3JqLqlgIMhi9_nwRlYw82xuDWG0n-7zuLzpEdEupozC3GMgWOz_BbaqXfBrGNoh9/s1600/rocky+dundas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5l1pPrP7-LrBKMnHR6KkPUH4kZbLep5nfSta-baQi1e-vUt5haO3bJBoMd-tzB-MnX0h5ccYkPLwZ3JqLqlgIMhi9_nwRlYw82xuDWG0n-7zuLzpEdEupozC3GMgWOz_BbaqXfBrGNoh9/s640/rocky+dundas.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the Rocky Dundas rocks - you snorkel under the edge until you find the opening; Inside one of the grottos with the skylight from a hole in the top; Looking from the inside out: this is the gap in one of the grottos you swim through to get out; We found a huge piece of coral just outside one of the grottos</td></tr>
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After a dingy ride around the Rocky Dundas and Fowl Cay, we once again lifted our anchor and headed to Cambridge Cay. We had seen this anchorage when we had entered the cut into the Exuma Bank from the Exuma Sound, on our mission to catch up to Moby, two and a half weeks earlier. It looked beautiful, and I wanted to go there! Once again, we carefully edged our way through the shallow water and picked up one of the Exuma Land and Sea Park mooring buoys. It was our home for the next 2 nights.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDoKU1m0hfPTq5Y9q0v_eY3AtaLwi-w14s8uYp5g6L86z_T9fo07uOXIjX-vTHw0fn40HlNkJFYJD7fZP0o-Ke3sfdQJK3q748owICXz9-MNhIfGh-7uBs_mgmsR0CJz5Hhitx5emyI8T_/s1600/DSC_0381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDoKU1m0hfPTq5Y9q0v_eY3AtaLwi-w14s8uYp5g6L86z_T9fo07uOXIjX-vTHw0fn40HlNkJFYJD7fZP0o-Ke3sfdQJK3q748owICXz9-MNhIfGh-7uBs_mgmsR0CJz5Hhitx5emyI8T_/s640/DSC_0381.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The anchorage at Cambridge Cay snapped during a short spell of sunshine!</td></tr>
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The next day, Saturday, May 12th, although overcast and grey in the morning, it managed to stay somewhat dry. Dave decided that a trip up the mast was a good idea, since it had not been done since Cape Town, South Africa, and he wanted to check the rig. Up he went and a “quick trip up the mast” turned into a 4 hour exercise. It was a good thing he went, because he discovered that the spinnaker halyard block needed some repairs. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi89cVquvc_z5ayGbTMI5FTOT2Oghacu9lro36btg1zv-X8BWsD34tMbab61h2TmkNzbKQx4W9UST1bWMb5jXZ_bWjPuE3z5s9tLNa0EOtyluQ_TSiaegnJa7MEdU-VRnY8_AArFAtqTCby/s1600/up+the+mast.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi89cVquvc_z5ayGbTMI5FTOT2Oghacu9lro36btg1zv-X8BWsD34tMbab61h2TmkNzbKQx4W9UST1bWMb5jXZ_bWjPuE3z5s9tLNa0EOtyluQ_TSiaegnJa7MEdU-VRnY8_AArFAtqTCby/s640/up+the+mast.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave at the top of the mast from the bottom looking up; Dave does a selfie, 70ft up in the air; A view of the boat from the top down; and an aerial view of the Cambridge Cay area taken from the top of the mast</td></tr>
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While he was up there, the skies cleared and we saw patches of blue for the first time in a while! We were anxious for him to finish his work, so we could go and explore. We saw on the chart that there was another sunken plane, a mile or so from where we were anchored, and the chart also showed some coral gardens we wanted to explore. Get down from the mast, Dave!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRrLhdS-fMqYUxTCUPZe71D7OOktaBDOFK-nFpjetk_ZYpNAiNQ1dIdzGnqguER6M8F7op73uU4TIgTDZiGsECXK9d71MyAx-n6LZJwGcIVr822Jem0d2oIBSr7ZjlSiw1zRhiswX-rpJ7/s1600/IMG20180518181622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1174" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRrLhdS-fMqYUxTCUPZe71D7OOktaBDOFK-nFpjetk_ZYpNAiNQ1dIdzGnqguER6M8F7op73uU4TIgTDZiGsECXK9d71MyAx-n6LZJwGcIVr822Jem0d2oIBSr7ZjlSiw1zRhiswX-rpJ7/s640/IMG20180518181622.jpg" width="467" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The chart showing, from the bottom, our anchorage area; the position of the submerged plane and the coral gardens</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAESKQZj2egjIVBB37B_DLGEfjpZwi7AUyOZSU2rXPetumCjX87XhW8cmdS-gxVhrqaEJhbDorTJA3Zhwpet8sAvKmFwecNKMAneuVvjyYqPZylZKh_ARphvnXbdNRYMcp3LkRLrQsavHv/s1600/plane+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAESKQZj2egjIVBB37B_DLGEfjpZwi7AUyOZSU2rXPetumCjX87XhW8cmdS-gxVhrqaEJhbDorTJA3Zhwpet8sAvKmFwecNKMAneuVvjyYqPZylZKh_ARphvnXbdNRYMcp3LkRLrQsavHv/s640/plane+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The plane was a small Cessna sitting upside down on the sandy bottom. It was quite deep here and there was extremely strong current. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuA7KXsTd40cJ8b6InOusBmBD6VFEbSJG-yPWpn3daLrMhq_bEkuKXTSY9nALSI7cthzAxUC6U9gMis3-s9bzsoh1VbeYuN3lC6BcDK2EWtcIBt86cGiIMd5ktUi-VcaNoOAiGJ7XJ2drg/s1600/coral+gardens.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuA7KXsTd40cJ8b6InOusBmBD6VFEbSJG-yPWpn3daLrMhq_bEkuKXTSY9nALSI7cthzAxUC6U9gMis3-s9bzsoh1VbeYuN3lC6BcDK2EWtcIBt86cGiIMd5ktUi-VcaNoOAiGJ7XJ2drg/s640/coral+gardens.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the very pretty coral we snorkeled on</td></tr>
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Sunday morning dawned partly cloudy, and we were on our way again. It was Mother’s Day…who knew?! We certainly didn’t, until we received a quick Whatsapp message from Dave’s sister, Kim! With us now being back in the Exuma Land and Sea Park, cell phone reception, and thus internet access was sketchy to non-existent, so all Happy Mother’s Day wishes had to be done via text messaging, with a hope that they went through! Our destination today was Shroud Cay, about 12 miles north. We arrived and anchored sometime after lunch, and were surprised at the number of boats that were anchored there. When we had been there previously with Moby, there were only one or two other boats besides us there. Now I counted 10 or more! The other difference from when we had last been there with Moby, was the weather. Our first visit was in pouring rain, today, it was partly sunny!! We were excited…we wanted to do the river trip again, but this time in sunshine!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI0zwukIJYyAqlu7sJUlmG3qxCI7l33iG24QFo6Jr3oatwuMYj2QP132I1M8pIuzoaGCfhvTxmAmXF1rbR6ak3iIPTZMHobXRrST4o4QBZ358kKF4xr1LbT3vJ2s0sFBHLKOLapml6e4ZS/s1600/DSC_0407.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI0zwukIJYyAqlu7sJUlmG3qxCI7l33iG24QFo6Jr3oatwuMYj2QP132I1M8pIuzoaGCfhvTxmAmXF1rbR6ak3iIPTZMHobXRrST4o4QBZ358kKF4xr1LbT3vJ2s0sFBHLKOLapml6e4ZS/s640/DSC_0407.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby's footprints are the only ones in the sand!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil4vSwK6I7eXPBtxlQCdnU5tO2h_FH8VK3aCaTK61JXH_Z1xzvMfW6YTeXgFsxnZMiKfvfmmsqoRXL03Ycam3qeB0PAw5Q-ZTLxX7qjzvvHbpkOHc_gnK0XMtwfalH1tPN6A_jMtOjKSxt/s1600/shroud+sandbanks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil4vSwK6I7eXPBtxlQCdnU5tO2h_FH8VK3aCaTK61JXH_Z1xzvMfW6YTeXgFsxnZMiKfvfmmsqoRXL03Ycam3qeB0PAw5Q-ZTLxX7qjzvvHbpkOHc_gnK0XMtwfalH1tPN6A_jMtOjKSxt/s640/shroud+sandbanks.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Exquisite Exumas I was talking about: Sandbanks at Shroud Cay</td></tr>
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We launched the dinghy and noticed one other difference: when we had done the river trip with Moby, it had been high tide…now the tide was at the low end, and many sandbanks, that we had not previously seen, made themselves visible! It also proved a little more challenging getting up the river, but it was not impossible! We made our way through the mangroves, this time marveling at the beauty of the water colors, and enjoying spotting a few little turtles on the way. As soon as they saw us, they dove and swam away at an impressive speed! Soon we saw the ocean! And the colors were spectacular! We again climbed the little hill to Camp Driftwood, where in days gone by, authorities would perch and watch the drugs coming and going on at next door Norman’s Cay.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX3_daz0IWVC50UXWaaiFt49EcCn4plZSrBnoJz_PLvySOw9JJmXf6t11vg5KmwBdHYxBgWIFLlX9iye8aV-H0NcfQfNyHSGvtcBrRjd1w3k8SWfwjjDH7rukBm-3lYmG0jg7urCEedkTk/s1600/shroud+river.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX3_daz0IWVC50UXWaaiFt49EcCn4plZSrBnoJz_PLvySOw9JJmXf6t11vg5KmwBdHYxBgWIFLlX9iye8aV-H0NcfQfNyHSGvtcBrRjd1w3k8SWfwjjDH7rukBm-3lYmG0jg7urCEedkTk/s640/shroud+river.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quite a difference to the time we made this trip with Moby in the pouring rain! <br />We enter the river on the Exuma Bank side, wind our way up through the mangroves, and eventually come out the other side: we see the ocean!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6zMmpmyKBFHrTJ0Ve8eVg_h3QaYkAQLLCiCCwWXsgX6r1VVos6dcC5Ksg0sK6tefljUpPvqgoCW4fKlKQU8_yf1aYgj6vsFhHP2aZl5mmYKOfD74Y7JoWdQON8yIBKjFzmq5-sWbXLGSy/s1600/DSC_0424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6zMmpmyKBFHrTJ0Ve8eVg_h3QaYkAQLLCiCCwWXsgX6r1VVos6dcC5Ksg0sK6tefljUpPvqgoCW4fKlKQU8_yf1aYgj6vsFhHP2aZl5mmYKOfD74Y7JoWdQON8yIBKjFzmq5-sWbXLGSy/s640/DSC_0424.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The river spills out into the sea, which is much calmer this time around!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHSU1DB4rdxW73sLxzDpv6pVm2eeEO0Sn7_-FV52MJEwDqQIVwNLN9CxwTxIdvti0a6wmZ5_rvovTkPzNFjHwMt88qqh-89cK5RnELxFnft0a3XXTEBXMlZCqzinVAzVaZsw7kB6jkd3Ye/s1600/shroud+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHSU1DB4rdxW73sLxzDpv6pVm2eeEO0Sn7_-FV52MJEwDqQIVwNLN9CxwTxIdvti0a6wmZ5_rvovTkPzNFjHwMt88qqh-89cK5RnELxFnft0a3XXTEBXMlZCqzinVAzVaZsw7kB6jkd3Ye/s640/shroud+beach.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We just can't get enough of the beautiful colors!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Hl0FXeBk4Yo0xf00uG1Wopnc2qoqzbJq_wxU5FhTDAUxduw1zU8EfBD4LHTNJCbZNG5bGl3PIPxudtvimawT72kBCK9C59DHIimXyyFCwfxjmeMXnBieZ9H5LWg1-u9AuXZeqaxHiu8d/s1600/Camp+driftwood.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Hl0FXeBk4Yo0xf00uG1Wopnc2qoqzbJq_wxU5FhTDAUxduw1zU8EfBD4LHTNJCbZNG5bGl3PIPxudtvimawT72kBCK9C59DHIimXyyFCwfxjmeMXnBieZ9H5LWg1-u9AuXZeqaxHiu8d/s640/Camp+driftwood.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the top of the hill at Camp Driftwood</td></tr>
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On return to the boat, we noticed one last difference: it was much rockier than it had been when we were there last. Even though it was about 4:30pm, we still had enough light to seek shelter elsewhere, and not wanting to endure an uncomfortable night, we picked up our anchor and headed to Norman’s Cay, about 4 miles away. Before the sun set, we were comfortably at anchor with 3 other boats, enjoying sundowners. I was treated to a Mother’s Day dinner (Dave made bangers and mash, and Gaby laid the table, adding the flowers). It was simple, but once again, because I didn’t have to cook, and it was the thought that counted, it was very delicious and very special!<br />
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On Monday morning, we left Norman’s Cay, having explored it pretty extensively already with Moby, and headed about 7 miles north to Highborne Cay. The wind was blowing and the day was overcast. We sailed with our jib only, and on approaching Highborne, we looked at the boats in the anchorage. They were rockin’ and rollin’ and we didn’t want to have any of that! We looked at the charts and noticed another anchorage on the north side of Highborne that looked like it would provide much better shelter. We had to weave our way through some pretty extensive coral reefs, but made it into the sheltered bay and shared it with two other boats. We edged our way as far as we could towards the beach, in order to get the maximum protection. During one low tide, we saw how close we were to the bottom…only inches between our keels and the sandy bottom!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The light blue color means shallow water ahead. Ben is posted on the bow to keep a lookout. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once safely anchored at Highborne...our keels almost touch the bottom at low tide!!</td></tr>
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Once again due to weather, we were sequestered at Highborne Cay. All of Monday was spent “indoors” as it rained and the wind blew. Tuesday was a repeat of Monday’s weather, and during a very short spell on Tuesday afternoon, the sun made an appearance and Gaby and I, suffering from a case of cabin fever, went for a swim off the back of the boat. This little expedition was cut short when we were joined by a big stingray, a creepy barracuda and a rather large nurse shark! Even though they would probably all be more afraid of us, we still felt better being in our own environment than in theirs!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXO0Qsxj3IqjJwbX-LUfSPcqAVhAvDR6eMQzAsQosuo6ArsnnKvDI7Rv5r53DEMZeo_1u-uJtbBVXPIV6Fbi8hbEYKRyb7SzhKc7RwpYXyk9GV1txiGW-e40SLInPdtwJ4XUQOumg7hpw0/s1600/underwater+highborne.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXO0Qsxj3IqjJwbX-LUfSPcqAVhAvDR6eMQzAsQosuo6ArsnnKvDI7Rv5r53DEMZeo_1u-uJtbBVXPIV6Fbi8hbEYKRyb7SzhKc7RwpYXyk9GV1txiGW-e40SLInPdtwJ4XUQOumg7hpw0/s640/underwater+highborne.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underwater Highborne: the friendly stingray, tiny fish just under the surface of the water; we found so many sand dollars and some pretty shells</td></tr>
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On Wednesday, May 16th, the rain stopped and it was partly cloudy. After lunch, we decided to take the dinghy over to Allen’s Cay, about a mile and a half away, to go and check out some Iguanas. Once again, we didn’t take food for them, but we know that people do feed them. We landed the dinghy on the beach and soon enough, they started appearing. At one point, there were 14 iguanas, big and small, that had made their way onto the beach to check us out! They are prehistoric looking creatures, but some I found quite beautiful, with green heads and shades of pink on their necks or legs.<br />
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We explored a little more and then on the way back, stopped at a coral reef and did some snorkeling. I had never really associated the Bahamas with good coral reefs, but we have found quite a few beautiful ones and have enjoyed snorkeling on them.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivTbfJ3e8M70kM_MzSmQOldm3u3jHuxpOJU5MNVec_Sj7OrIpIj_KVmj0gWOZZRttMrlPmQAgpCoBDyvKHQbUxLpFJxOs0ovGkj2H8BGHyze1O7wL1EGPpXIbk010MS9gnCw3XNIPMlDLJ/s1600/iguana+outing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivTbfJ3e8M70kM_MzSmQOldm3u3jHuxpOJU5MNVec_Sj7OrIpIj_KVmj0gWOZZRttMrlPmQAgpCoBDyvKHQbUxLpFJxOs0ovGkj2H8BGHyze1O7wL1EGPpXIbk010MS9gnCw3XNIPMlDLJ/s640/iguana+outing.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top: At Allen's Cay with the iguanas, more iguanas, the coral we snorkeled on on the way back, and Bottom: exploring the beach at Allen's Cay after our iguana visit</td></tr>
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The rain and bad weather had given us a lot of time to think and talk. We had been discussing our next movements because we had reached the top of the Exuma Cays chain, and were at a crossroads. One road led us to the Abacos, the other lead us towards the Berry Islands.<br />
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Our original plan had been to sail over to Spanish Wells at the top of Eleuthera, then over to the Abaco group of islands, then back track a little over the Bight of Abaco (on the west side), then over to the Berry Islands, to Bimini, then to the Florida Keys and then home. We then started talking about possibly skipping the Abacos, and sailing to Nassau, then the Berry Islands and the same route home. We thought that maybe we were trying to fit too much into the time we had left. We thought that maybe we just wanted to get home. We thought that maybe we had just had enough of cruising. <br />
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Maybe it was the depressing weather that played negatively on our minds, but in the end, we made the decision to skip the Abacos and leave them for another trip, when we would have more time to devote to them, and to enjoy them properly. One thing we have learned while cruising is that you can't see everything. Often we have had to make a decision to skip a destination or two. Rather than try and "touch" every place, we'd rather spend quality time in one place, while missing another. It has also taught us to be flexible. We never quite know where we'll be when, and we often change our minds at the last minute. Living in such close proximity to the Bahamas certainly allows us the opportunity of going back to the Abacos at a later stage, and so the decision was made: skip the Abacos, head straight to the Berry Islands via Nassau and then back to Florida by the end of May.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWTJYx8EMc-QdYPZ1w_IoncDI7zVsTboSCj1gvwJGubTP3Tibscks0nr5qhOMnd-bzQCQPb3LIIasx2wRv1zmXDisp05OfNOUaknSTgULCY_6exSUH_dRINJVn61Pdz18whDkHMP6j_kn_/s1600/the-islands-of-the-bahamas-map+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="863" data-original-width="1213" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWTJYx8EMc-QdYPZ1w_IoncDI7zVsTboSCj1gvwJGubTP3Tibscks0nr5qhOMnd-bzQCQPb3LIIasx2wRv1zmXDisp05OfNOUaknSTgULCY_6exSUH_dRINJVn61Pdz18whDkHMP6j_kn_/s640/the-islands-of-the-bahamas-map+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Islands of the Bahamas with our 2 route options home: Route A via the Abacos (in brown), and Route B (in green), the route we ultimately decided on <i>(image from OnTheWorldMap.com)</i></td></tr>
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On Thursday morning, May 17th, after nudging our way out again across the coral reefs, we hoisted our big blue and yellow spinnaker and had a great sail, 30 odd nautical miles to New Providence Island, Nassau.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk4cqNvk2c4rCge-hX4eRQDCXX4FNWJdE1kiv5_aWS3Cpe045PGAm64OeWe6K4GrK5PlGFRCvy4P5_luTeJoSoj9HdGiyhH7I4oDLwCsHRenu1by8pWgMNzW8umOKsl6Qx9kB3-zcgrk08/s1600/sunset+highborne.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk4cqNvk2c4rCge-hX4eRQDCXX4FNWJdE1kiv5_aWS3Cpe045PGAm64OeWe6K4GrK5PlGFRCvy4P5_luTeJoSoj9HdGiyhH7I4oDLwCsHRenu1by8pWgMNzW8umOKsl6Qx9kB3-zcgrk08/s640/sunset+highborne.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset at Highborne Cay. Gaby's keen eye for photography catches the raindrops on our sail bag...rain has pretty much defined our stay in the Bahamas!</td></tr>
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On a fun note, ever wonder what we are eating?! ( I last went grocery shopping in the Turks and Caicos!).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkwh69QPrLMoTVbRMrtkE3Y2RVHtbkDmOvG7lcG5CSmasUg9Piac30gNlRRLsE9T8u8tA75uAsyHeTsHYdsoKBU_UqtdP4fDniONoy51iGWFBtpJm9xr9mTkDP01o9-17ugh5LSwPQrIM/s1600/eating+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkwh69QPrLMoTVbRMrtkE3Y2RVHtbkDmOvG7lcG5CSmasUg9Piac30gNlRRLsE9T8u8tA75uAsyHeTsHYdsoKBU_UqtdP4fDniONoy51iGWFBtpJm9xr9mTkDP01o9-17ugh5LSwPQrIM/s640/eating+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I still bake break almost every day, sometimes it is Foccacia (pictured here with cheese, salami and a delicious chickpea salad made with tomato, cucumber and feta); We once traded 2 cold beers for this huge lobster tail!; We still fish: Dave caught this Spanish Mackerel on the way to the Berry Islands, and from the ocean to the table doesn't take long: The Spanish Mackerel is grilled and served with rice and veggies! We are not starving!!</td></tr>
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-87115237770700014782018-05-13T08:28:00.001-04:002018-05-13T08:28:24.391-04:00Meeting Moby (in the Exuma Land and Sea Park)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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April 29th is a very special day. 14 years ago on the 29th of April, Benjamin was born! He has now had 3 birthdays while we’ve been cruising: his 12th in the Dry Tortugas, 70 miles off the coast of Key West Florida; his 13th in the Whitsundays, Australia; and now his 14th in Grand Exuma, Bahamas.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy Birthday, Benjamin!</td></tr>
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We woke up early on that Sunday, the 29th April, 2018, and quietly slipped out of the anchorage in George Town. We didn’t yet have a plan as to where we would end up that day, but we knew we had to make the most of the wind direction, even though it was light, in order to make headway north. We let our birthday boy sleep in, and slowly motor-sailed out into Exuma Sound. Our goal was to get as close as possible to where our friends on Moby were anchored, or if possible, to catch up to them once and for all!<br />
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It was a simple birthday…no big presents, actually no presents at all other than a packet of Jellytots (South African candy) that I had stashed away, and home-made cards. The only thing Ben had asked for was a “pudding cake” also known as “Yoav’s birthday cake”! When Yoav (on Shuti) had his 13th birthday in Chagos, we were all treated to a delicious “pudding cake”. It has now become a favorite of both our kids, and when it was Gaby’s birthday in Cape Town, Shuti made her a pudding cake too! (It’s literally just cookies and pudding in layers – very simple, very yummy!). So using the very detailed directions from Lilach (with drawings!), I managed to produce a pudding cake for Benjamin! Thanks to all on Shuti…your pudding cake will live on for many years!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lilach's most excellent directions on how to make the pudding cake! (thanks, Lilach, and I hope you don't mind me sharing your recipe with the world!!); Ben thanks Gaby for her card, and Ben and Gaby are ready to tuck into the pudding cake!</td></tr>
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We were making good progress up the chain of the Exumas, and decided to check the last email we had received from Moby the day before to check on their position. They were in South Warderick Wells. We checked the charts: If we took the cut above Warderick Wells, we would still have to back track a fair distance south (about 4 miles), to get past the shallows and into an anchorage. If we took a cut further south, we could be in the shelter of the islands, and then look for an anchorage anywhere between there and Warderick Wells, if we didn’t make it in time. Just as we were discussing this, we were coming up to a wide opening, and were watching a small cargo ship go through. We decided that this cut was as good as any, and decided to go in.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrTcDmLngJ61cE5ZrCtLYr_iR2WESqP6LfftF_ystcD2t_eS2kYRKhZgeaS3IdsRnj1nFOeI_WV0pqJf0-gTcO3umGdzLUF68CYpMIENtVj7aOeOtwUHPiu0YFZUFnOsgGnUc0zrYuee0/s1600/DSC_0136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrTcDmLngJ61cE5ZrCtLYr_iR2WESqP6LfftF_ystcD2t_eS2kYRKhZgeaS3IdsRnj1nFOeI_WV0pqJf0-gTcO3umGdzLUF68CYpMIENtVj7aOeOtwUHPiu0YFZUFnOsgGnUc0zrYuee0/s640/DSC_0136.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby at the bow, watching for shallow patches as we enter the pass</td></tr>
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We entered at Conch Cut, between Compass Cay on the south, and Cambridge Cay to the north. This is the southern boundary of the Exuma Land and Sea Park, a national park. Luckily sunset is around 7:30pm, giving us plenty of daylight to continue north. Our final decision had been to make it in one go, meet up with Moby, spend a few days with them, and then head south again, to explore all that we had missed. At about 6:00pm that evening, after a full 12 hours underway, we entered the anchorage behind Warderick Wells Cay, near Emerald Rock, where we had read that you could anchor. We could see Moby on a mooring buoy on the northern mooring field. Their dinghy was not on the boat. We watched for a while, and soon saw them returning. We thought they might see us, but we watched as they lifted their dinghy up and seemed to settle in for the night. Dave decided he should go over and let them know we were here. I was busy making pizza for Ben’s birthday dinner, so I didn’t go along, but Dave, Ben and Gaby dinghied over to Moby. Apparently they snuck up on them, and then shouted “surprise”!! And a surprise it was! They had not been expecting us, so were thrilled to see us! A plan was made to get together the following morning and work out the travels north from there.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbxPT0gkB5tFzmOABfTQW9q7NtfTgpdR5DKEqtkUVanDTx82xB-Af6dTtGz3c5EI4098Vf8OTOa19gDidml8t1jsXBmDd9klIY351gHNi0D0-oOV6vGqKOeAhV6qJ8rjIQk26StH0liX5-/s1600/DSC_0138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbxPT0gkB5tFzmOABfTQW9q7NtfTgpdR5DKEqtkUVanDTx82xB-Af6dTtGz3c5EI4098Vf8OTOa19gDidml8t1jsXBmDd9klIY351gHNi0D0-oOV6vGqKOeAhV6qJ8rjIQk26StH0liX5-/s640/DSC_0138.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from my kitchen window: Sunset at Warderick Wells while I was making pizza!</td></tr>
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The following day, the new convoy of Moby and Cool Runnings headed north to Hawksbill Cay. There are many shallow sand banks that are constantly shifting, so eyeball navigation is absolutely required here. The water is crystal clear, and the shades of turquoise amazing. There was only one other boat anchored off the long beach at Hawksbill Cay, so we managed to find a good spot in nice sand off the beach. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiengjc7jCyEhnO7dFyClWzv1zMIf-UeY_U4zh6jQMTPlU3tF94AvqxwOCftO1JTB2l7izoBUDsoxKXzYKmwsVpo8-njN_9huvyZa6f86OwLtrHe78VOMUiYaa_pmh5PnG-I9Ajng3hwF7T/s1600/exuma.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiengjc7jCyEhnO7dFyClWzv1zMIf-UeY_U4zh6jQMTPlU3tF94AvqxwOCftO1JTB2l7izoBUDsoxKXzYKmwsVpo8-njN_9huvyZa6f86OwLtrHe78VOMUiYaa_pmh5PnG-I9Ajng3hwF7T/s640/exuma.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A map of the Exuma Cays to provide some orientation; Ben at the bow watching the shallows on the way to Hawksbill Cay and Moby races past us!</td></tr>
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It didn’t take long before everyone was in the water, the paddleboards were out, and the kids were soon on the beach. The parents followed, and while the kids played we got caught up on all our experiences over the last 4 months since we’d last seen them in Cape Town. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying Hawksbill Cay</td></tr>
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The evening ended on board Moby, where Benedicte opened a bottle of champagne, and we toasted to friendship, to the accomplishment of a circumnavigation, to Loic’s 50th birthday (on the 28th), Ben’s 14th birthday (on the 29th), and good times ahead! Lots to celebrate!</div>
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We stayed at Hawksbill Cay the following day, and Loic and Victor made the most of the wind, kiting and windsurfing, while the Hibberds, Benedicte and Anna went exploring. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loic enjoying some windsurfing</td></tr>
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We found a small cave, and then a path that led us over the island, to the ocean side, where the fury of the wind could really be felt! We were glad we had taken the window and made the trip up north when we did, because the angry sea we were looking at, bore no resemblance to the calm ocean we had been in just a few days prior. But the beauty was still there, and we walked up and down the beach on the ocean side, Anna enjoying catching the foam, and watching it blow away! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcFE71E6Enr2atkBGagArRrOO-QfSH4ENwLc77yVWfFbT-i7ymoWPzEg15ahh4QeGwCPrZH8pfkZhLgWDdLvXEH3yjPuRp2KI5Utm8Fld2axEiSOWIFXJ_hh0j7H1kVjMglWx2UkAYZpY/s1600/cave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcFE71E6Enr2atkBGagArRrOO-QfSH4ENwLc77yVWfFbT-i7ymoWPzEg15ahh4QeGwCPrZH8pfkZhLgWDdLvXEH3yjPuRp2KI5Utm8Fld2axEiSOWIFXJ_hh0j7H1kVjMglWx2UkAYZpY/s640/cave.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cave as seen from the water; Gaby and Anna climb in the cave; crystal clear water; Dave securing the dinghy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9n-EjgrNs5yB9hvlYVdz-5b7NiamHfHHnTiSgSPg5Ty5HMR1TyU97x-9TlOWTC-6-zEeYgly8iRRcB6s7JzED8RE8RSNQhopGBHV7MUC2gNpdlH6m0TkaOy8-wnLQGC30AvuAVizLLP15/s1600/Hawksbill+walk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9n-EjgrNs5yB9hvlYVdz-5b7NiamHfHHnTiSgSPg5Ty5HMR1TyU97x-9TlOWTC-6-zEeYgly8iRRcB6s7JzED8RE8RSNQhopGBHV7MUC2gNpdlH6m0TkaOy8-wnLQGC30AvuAVizLLP15/s640/Hawksbill+walk.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Contrast of 2 sides of an island: the sea on the ocean side with white caps and seaweed washed up on the beach, and the tranquility of the leeward, sheltered side, with calm seas and crystal clear, turquoise water as far as the eye can see!; On the walk we saw a landscape of trees that appeared magical, silver in color, probably the dust of the limestone rock on the island; Anna blows the sea foam; we discovered this seaweed on the beach in the shape of a heart; with Benedicte...friends forever!</td></tr>
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That evening, the Helies family came over to Cool Runnings, but it was Benedicte who fed the 2 families! We were treated to a dinner of Bretton crepes…a specialty of Brittany, the region in France that Loic and Benedicte are from. Back in St. Pierre, Martinique, we had managed to find just 1kg of the flour that Benedicte needed to make the crepes and had delivered it to her on our reunion a few days earlier! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSksPBAL846fDkwQQDkTZwmS10Ic8vJf2U8VgB39h9Blgq2H6oMPfLh0G5XV6zR45rCEb_0FF84IfYxH1fyEcrjc6TAQ69sxqonYfXZbx4BrGTUGDEJP-AAAES19oIfD-7rDF9mVsjEhCk/s1600/crepes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSksPBAL846fDkwQQDkTZwmS10Ic8vJf2U8VgB39h9Blgq2H6oMPfLh0G5XV6zR45rCEb_0FF84IfYxH1fyEcrjc6TAQ69sxqonYfXZbx4BrGTUGDEJP-AAAES19oIfD-7rDF9mVsjEhCk/s640/crepes.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Benedicte slaving over a hot stove; Gaby declares the crepes "magnifique"; Gaby and Victor enjoying the dinner; Dave and Loic discuss anchorages in the Exuma Cays; one of Benedicte's magnifique crepes!</td></tr>
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The following morning saw us heading just a few miles north to Shroud Cay. We had been looking forward to exploring this Cay, as we had read about a river that runs through the mangroves, and comes out on the ocean side. Unfortunately, Mother Nature was not cooperating with us, and the day was heavy with dark clouds. We had hoped to do our little outing before the heavens opened up, but it didn’t work out that way, so in wind and rain we headed through the mangroves! We could only imagine how beautiful the colors would be in sunshine, but the expanse of the mangroves themselves was impressive nonetheless! On our return to the boat, we did a little more exploring, and later that afternoon, after everyone had snuggled up with a good book or movie, and there was a break in the rain, Loic, Benedicte, Dave and I went back to the beach and explored some more. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuXM48RKYSJxX7Ttd0A2wb0PxTbrEsyudo8qy-MJqeURc7bk1zRD0mHdez3eKmNmIDMf8LOHaxpkhRcsI4lK83LqdsIKzNFAll9c1v7uMr2xtVwP9uKBb6Gzr7N8pLNCDN_xKqTk5ndLQ/s1600/shroud.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuXM48RKYSJxX7Ttd0A2wb0PxTbrEsyudo8qy-MJqeURc7bk1zRD0mHdez3eKmNmIDMf8LOHaxpkhRcsI4lK83LqdsIKzNFAll9c1v7uMr2xtVwP9uKBb6Gzr7N8pLNCDN_xKqTk5ndLQ/s640/shroud.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moby dinghies past us on the river...we see the ocean!; A view of the maize of mangroves and creeks; Ben and Gaby shelter from the pouring rain...and then show themselves; Loic, Gudrun and Anna on Camp Driftwood on the ocean side at the end of our dinghy ride</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool Runnings' Footprints in the sand: Bahamas, May 2018</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKNKjEeDoph3tDMVjtNMKPakTDZYc2_eTEKY396rhaqCMXUtpPdzoqJoyxExMVeuVM1DlHPH5HHaU33c71Euf2bGYXAgOq1El3qFAlMrCEBh6V2SXdSnXt6Qy0gQ5wIKVpfKBfHPLdxEN/s1600/shroud+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKNKjEeDoph3tDMVjtNMKPakTDZYc2_eTEKY396rhaqCMXUtpPdzoqJoyxExMVeuVM1DlHPH5HHaU33c71Euf2bGYXAgOq1El3qFAlMrCEBh6V2SXdSnXt6Qy0gQ5wIKVpfKBfHPLdxEN/s640/shroud+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exploring Shroud Cay: Ours are the only footprints on the beach; a little beach amongst the jaggerd rocks, and the mangrove roots exposed at low tide </td></tr>
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Next on the agenda was Norman’s Cay, just a few miles further north. We were enjoying these little hops and stops! For many years, Norman’s Cay was under the control of drug lord Carlos Lehder, and boats did not stop here. Apparently armed guards patrolled the beaches, as planes flew drugs in and out of the country. A remnant of these days exists in the form of a sunken drug plane that crashed near the airstrip, and now rests on the sandy floor, in a few meters of water. It was quite a large plane, a DC3 according to my aviation expert Benjamin, and at low tide, part of the plane is exposed. We anchored near the plane, and set off to explore as a dark cloud ominously approached over the horizon. We were all in the water when the heavens opened up, and the raindrops were so large and heavy, that they stung like pellets! It was safer to be underwater, but even here, we could hear the pelting of the heavy rain!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJsMYQ64QMhXpWeySO9X5Jb0wQ1uDY39cM0P1MpSBQsAurCmNsDqxB_rJjtB05TUN4HrvSqqKPvBHmbKlxv2FlnBhQGl3nqr87gQFudksm6jzLqEf9zS6rgQf8XavdyYDmVzu0aHA6pysT/s1600/GOPR7827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJsMYQ64QMhXpWeySO9X5Jb0wQ1uDY39cM0P1MpSBQsAurCmNsDqxB_rJjtB05TUN4HrvSqqKPvBHmbKlxv2FlnBhQGl3nqr87gQFudksm6jzLqEf9zS6rgQf8XavdyYDmVzu0aHA6pysT/s640/GOPR7827.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben looks through a window, while Gaby snorkels above</td></tr>
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The plane itself was cool to snorkel on. You could still clearly see the wings, the propellers, the cockpit, the windows and the tail. Some beautiful coral had made the plane its home, and the fish darted in and out of the wreckage. They are not shy, probably used to being fed by other visitors, and would come so close that you had to “shoo” them away! One of the fish gave Dave a little nip, probably in protest of not being fed! They curiously looked at the GoPro and at your mask, so that you literally would be eyeball to eyeball with the fishies!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcl2V2WqFNsd2xzLcuY9ZqurcP717MXwuRm8LcXDFZcgHEQvJ9im8YPDrlp3biXSnVy81eGtbdSQdpIf7rDgjFNbiH9FWKgPc-su6Ki5DEqnWEimN4vbbs7ypb0tAJh-mkwc5L5aVmwz_0/s1600/plane.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcl2V2WqFNsd2xzLcuY9ZqurcP717MXwuRm8LcXDFZcgHEQvJ9im8YPDrlp3biXSnVy81eGtbdSQdpIf7rDgjFNbiH9FWKgPc-su6Ki5DEqnWEimN4vbbs7ypb0tAJh-mkwc5L5aVmwz_0/s640/plane.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the propellers; Gaby swims through the front of the plane; windows from the side; and the coral growth</td></tr>
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After our excursion, we moved the big boats to a slightly more secure anchorage and then went about exploring the land. It is strange how each island has its own unique landscape. Where Hawksbill Cay had a beautiful beach with soft, white sand, Norman’s had almost no beach at all, just lots of rock, and Shroud Cay was full of mangroves, which were not prevalent on either Hawksbill or Norman’s. With Loic being a pilot, we went and had a look at the runway, with which he was very impressed. We noticed small planes landing and taking off at quite a rapid pace, often with very little time between landings and take-offs.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiaqPFdI08XlfrWBDcsOnyGsakpDLAKfUYp1zBANHbqQkBKyH3rYhjqxUODrNjogy5krVSWLqEDVJrriNswq5gt43vnQFLth9jReUIW-oPCI7YE6QXHzlV_dNheZQJbku4p1TAVCMbo2-L/s1600/normans+runway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiaqPFdI08XlfrWBDcsOnyGsakpDLAKfUYp1zBANHbqQkBKyH3rYhjqxUODrNjogy5krVSWLqEDVJrriNswq5gt43vnQFLth9jReUIW-oPCI7YE6QXHzlV_dNheZQJbku4p1TAVCMbo2-L/s640/normans+runway.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The runway at Norman's Cay and the view of the landscape</td></tr>
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Later that afternoon, we took the dinghy around the island to look at a marina that is being built. It is most impressive, and no cost is being spared to build it. (We wondered if maybe some left over drug money was being used to finance it!! 😉). Although it was a Thursday afternoon, we did not see much activity, and the place seemed like a ghost town, although there did seem to be progress with the construction. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxsizdKqtSm9ugK03cHhBEDNt3_cABRvynNSQjRjhRZcdH3kd8scmJmOxpYP7GmtiEH-4fM9juOjffBVd_nTLcXzWDhEiAFSkuWhUaovOp9BGf1qwTRvhnc2Dx0z4GdIwlaIUXmX6O7me/s1600/marina.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxsizdKqtSm9ugK03cHhBEDNt3_cABRvynNSQjRjhRZcdH3kd8scmJmOxpYP7GmtiEH-4fM9juOjffBVd_nTLcXzWDhEiAFSkuWhUaovOp9BGf1qwTRvhnc2Dx0z4GdIwlaIUXmX6O7me/s640/marina.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marina construction: The pylons are in place, the limestone is just dug away to make a channel; the barge at the marina entrance</td></tr>
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We dinghied past the sunken plane, and to the flats behind it, and marveled at the landscape produced by the water that had now completely receded at low tide.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top: The shallows at low tide, a weird landscape of small pools and sand mounds; Bottom: The sunken plane at low tide, and in better weather; Anna inspects the mangrove roots on the shallow flats</td></tr>
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That evening, we decided on a potluck dinner. We had both checked the weather, and an opportunity had opened up the following day (Friday), and just for one day, that would allow us to sail back south to the start of the Exuma Cays. If we stayed with Moby any longer, it would be days before we had the direction we needed to get back south, and by which time they would have moved on to Eleuthera and possibly further to prepare for their Atlantic crossing, and we didn’t want to get too far north, as we would be coming back this way regardless. We agreed that this would be our last night together, and that we would leave early the next morning.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The kids tucking into the potluck dinner, and on Moby's trampoline, this is what it's all about!</td></tr>
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A dinner of grilled chicken, potatoes, Spanish rice and carrot salad was conjured up and quickly devoured by 5 kids and 4 adults! We lingered over a bottle of Rosé, and then it was time to say goodbye. With promises to meet again somewhere, sometime, we hugged and said our farewells. Our friendship has been cemented in the unique experiences we have shared: 2 families, 3 Ocean crossings, 1 very special bond! Au revoir, Moby. Merci pour les bons moments!<br />
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-87278501794538582762018-05-08T16:28:00.000-04:002018-05-08T16:28:19.003-04:00Chattin’ and Chillin’ in George TownElizabeth Harbour is a beautiful, sheltered basin with Great Exuma Island on one side, and Stocking Island on the other. George Town is located on the Great Exuma side. As we entered the south entrance to Elizabeth Harbour, I noticed Gaby deeply focused on our chartplotter. “I’ve found them!” she suddenly cried, and then added, “I’m adding them as an AIS buddy”, as she deftly pressed buttons on the chartplotter, as only a tween-ager can!<br />
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The “them” that she was referring to, was “SandStar”, a Lagoon 500 from our hometown in Florida, with the Sandlin family on board: Dan, Kathy, Emma (13), Jack (10) and Sam (7). Dan and Kathy had contacted us the day before, or perhaps even <i>on </i>the day, that we left our dock back in 2016! They had found our blog and made contact, but we had never had the opportunity to meet. For 2 years we have been trading emails, discussing homeschooling strategies and cruising life, and we were very excited to finally meet them!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlrlxgXInHVvmy9ZD92VLQXWqNQhYP8wKHhK-KDtKY4W1vu5f1N1QXzHNncew_BFhdhguynKZ7W8-XnXlYB2dkUO7flhbPIP91kiT-__JbItNrj7Pn11pkRqPWRhRSwmTOhQrTdUBjZQ1C/s1600/DSC_0062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlrlxgXInHVvmy9ZD92VLQXWqNQhYP8wKHhK-KDtKY4W1vu5f1N1QXzHNncew_BFhdhguynKZ7W8-XnXlYB2dkUO7flhbPIP91kiT-__JbItNrj7Pn11pkRqPWRhRSwmTOhQrTdUBjZQ1C/s640/DSC_0062.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SandStar anchored in George Town</td></tr>
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We rolled into the anchorage and found StandStar anchored off the beach. We found a little spot and dropped our anchor next to them. The wind was very light, and boats were swinging every which way! After initial introductions and “hello’s”, Dave and Dan went across the harbor to George Town, so we could check into the Bahamas. While they were gone, Kathy and I got caught up on our travels, and the kids got quickly acquainted, playing a game and chatting. Soon Dave was back, and announced we all had to appear at immigration, so we had to rush back, to make it before they closed. When all was said and done, we strolled around George Town for a bit and checked out the supermarket (always important!).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In George Town with SandStar: Jack and Emma, Ben, Gaby, Sam, Kathy and Dan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruising Kids: Ben and Gaby with Emma, Jack and Sam<br />
<i>(pics by Kathy)</i></td></tr>
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We had arrived just in time for the Island Family Regatta, where sailors from all over the Bahamas come together for an annual regatta, sailing their A, B and C Class wooden boats. There were lots of festivities, and an area had been set up with makeshift bars and little eateries. There was not much going on at the time, but later that evening, we could hear the music from the festivities from our boats. During the day, we could watch the regatta, as the boats with their big sails floated by, trying to make the most of the light winds.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful, hand crafted wooden boats with big, white sails: lovely to watch them sailing!</td></tr>
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There is a big cruising community in George Town, and with it, comes lots of activities: volleyball, kids activities, aqua aerobics in the mornings off the beach at Monument (another anchorage), and so on! Lots of activity, lots to do! Much of it revolves around a place called “Chat ‘n Chill”. That’s where the volleyball nets are located, and where the kids like to meet. That afternoon, we joined Kathy and Dan at Chat ‘n Chill, Dave joining in a few games of volleyball, the kids playing with all the other cruising kids, and I just wondered around and took it all in. It was so different to the isolation we’d been used to, that it took a while to let it all sink in!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtQZKyGqdFSYSsurr-eMcqwQhqpIY1T53UgI_l7teEorN2Zz_92-D8c5FPvP_1N6Edo2eYbhrS74-12G93fe_SZwthc3GhEaGiynzwM95E99ACnPJQLX3ZbBC5LCVbfUjvav65iK3rfh3-/s1600/chat+n+chill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtQZKyGqdFSYSsurr-eMcqwQhqpIY1T53UgI_l7teEorN2Zz_92-D8c5FPvP_1N6Edo2eYbhrS74-12G93fe_SZwthc3GhEaGiynzwM95E99ACnPJQLX3ZbBC5LCVbfUjvav65iK3rfh3-/s640/chat+n+chill.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beach at Chat 'n Chill</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUiE2PVsAdjjvl_frbhQi6urv4_R_n-IvIDVXk1eXoQa54mW8JqsTHKULLk-dFzGvvJ0r21q24nE7dFp4bZMFK6MONKuoOplmDkWYHKDGbGD3IJsE2GlOziZXODucX6OA1ZnhwLXrAUIs-/s1600/kids+on+volleyball.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUiE2PVsAdjjvl_frbhQi6urv4_R_n-IvIDVXk1eXoQa54mW8JqsTHKULLk-dFzGvvJ0r21q24nE7dFp4bZMFK6MONKuoOplmDkWYHKDGbGD3IJsE2GlOziZXODucX6OA1ZnhwLXrAUIs-/s640/kids+on+volleyball.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SandStar and Cool Runnings kids with other cruising kids having fun on the volleyball courts at Chat 'n Chill<br />
<i>(thanks to Kathy for the pics)</i></td></tr>
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Dan and Kathy also introduced us to Gideon and Brett aboard “Panache”, a Voyage 50 catamaran. Gideon and Brett happened to be South African, and also happened to have patented a fix for the slipping cone clutch problem, so prevalent in the Yanmar SD50 Sail drives, the sail drives that we have on our boat. It was the slipping cone clutch that had us confined to a marina for 2 weeks in the Seychelles, and when Dave had checked the engines before leaving the Turks and Caicos, he noticed a very small oil leak in the port sail drives. This modification that Gideon would do, could possibly also fix the oil drip. After meeting with them, Dave decided it was probably worth getting both sail drives worked on, and hopefully the cone clutch problem, along with the oil leak could be fixed, once and for all.<br />
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We had arrived on Wednesday afternoon, and while Thursday was spent playing (the kids took the dinghy to Chat ‘n Chill), Friday was spent working! Gideon and Brett came over in the morning, and spent a full day working, taking out the sail drives and making the modifications to them. While Gideon worked, Brett kept us entertained with stories! We were very impressed with how thorough they were and what a great job they did! Since doing the modifications on their own boat, they have over 2000 hours on their saildrives, with no sign of slippage, so here is hoping our result will be similar!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wnTGNuNXEthexU_1E6N3XahFoW71xcG29Dk4FbWZh7cQEgBOqMjA7X8ZO8ngXUrNIYtXBZZj8SjAlyihtkDQHec3RV7Eg3VlOz5C4wYok32uPuZlrjMT_gACDPwW8qs-J2wAuGi2rD2T/s1600/cone+clutch+work.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wnTGNuNXEthexU_1E6N3XahFoW71xcG29Dk4FbWZh7cQEgBOqMjA7X8ZO8ngXUrNIYtXBZZj8SjAlyihtkDQHec3RV7Eg3VlOz5C4wYok32uPuZlrjMT_gACDPwW8qs-J2wAuGi2rD2T/s640/cone+clutch+work.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A foot pound is a unit of torque: Gideon uses a very accurate "foot pound" to tighten something :). Thanks, guys, for the great job on our sail drives!</td></tr>
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Throughout the day, activity on the beach at Chat ‘n Chill had increased exponentially, with motor boats roaring past us, back and forth, making big wakes, and partying on the beach, with very loud, very inappropriate music getting to a level where we decided we didn’t want to stay there any longer. Together with SandStar, we upped anchor around 5:00pm, and moved a mile or two up the coast to the “northern suburbs”, and re-anchored off Monument beach for a much quieter night!<br />
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The following morning, Gideon and Brett, who were also anchored there, came past in their dinghy, and convinced us to join them for a session of water aerobics! They told SandStar, whom we had planned to meet aboard for coffee, and soon all 11 of us joined the group already gathered for their morning exercise! It was a lot of fun, and great exercise too!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Emma, Kathy, Dan, Jack and Sam after our water aerobics class!</td></tr>
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Having looked at the weather, we knew that we should leave either that day (Saturday), or at the latest, the next day (Sunday), if we wanted to get north and have a chance of meeting up with Moby. We decided that, since the kids were having so much fun together, and since the following day was Benjamin’s birthday, we would stay Saturday, and have a small birthday celebration for him with SandStar. I baked some cupcakes, and SandStar came over in the afternoon. We had a great afternoon, picking Dan and Kathy’s brains on good places to go and anchor in the Exumas, while the kids had a ball playing with the paddleboards in the water.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzYqB525v4K9LLYqWqbIBJM2ARQy8Zv3mDFzxbCFb5-EqQFMdt30xnNdI6_nI1YmIUtFNwus_KhNzthno-pGQuX8jdl3RPMvBiE6OG8ilHN_tblRYc7U8AnJMrLC2tkHi-gIcxH_RIUASG/s1600/bday+with+ss.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzYqB525v4K9LLYqWqbIBJM2ARQy8Zv3mDFzxbCFb5-EqQFMdt30xnNdI6_nI1YmIUtFNwus_KhNzthno-pGQuX8jdl3RPMvBiE6OG8ilHN_tblRYc7U8AnJMrLC2tkHi-gIcxH_RIUASG/s640/bday+with+ss.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SandStar arrives for the "party"; what's a birthday without cupcakes?!; Emma, Jack and Sam had made Benjamin some birthday cards and presents, and then they had fun in the water!</td></tr>
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We ended the evening ashore with pizza at a small place that Dan and Kathy recommended, and the birthday celebration doubled as a good-bye get together, as we would be leaving the next day. SandStar will be going in the opposite direction, heading South, and plan to spend another 2 or 3 years sailing the Caribbean, while we are heading North, as our journey starts coming to an end. Dan, Kathy, Emma, Jack and Sam; it was wonderful to finally meet you!! Thank you for taking us under your wing and integrating us into the Bahamian cruising community, and for mapping out a good path home for us, making sure we don't miss any of the good stuff! <br />
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It was sad to say goodbye, but the good thing with this farewell, however, is that we know we’ll definitely see the Sandlin family again: when they return from their sailing adventures, we’ll be there to greet them and to welcome them home!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben, Sam, Gaby, Jack and Emma on Cool Runnings, anchored off Chat 'n Chill, George Town, Exumas, April 2018<br /><i>(photo by Kathy)</i></td></tr>
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-4581506547334688432018-04-27T18:28:00.001-04:002018-04-27T18:28:54.666-04:00Bahamas Bound<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After stating vehemently that we would never check out on a weekend again, we checked out of Turks and Caicos on a Sunday (April 22nd)….and paid the extra $30 overtime fees for the pleasure of doing so: $15 to immigration; $15 to customs!! On top of that, our $30 fee included waiting for them pretty much all of Sunday, and when they finally arrived at 3:30pm, a storm was brewing. We were checked out and ready to leave around 4:30pm, when we cast off the dock of South Side Marina, out into the Caicos Bank, nervously eyeing the increasingly darkening skies. It turns out that there are not too many anchorages in the Turks and Caicos, but we had checked the charts and motored just a little way to Saporilla Bay, a few miles north of the marina. We dropped anchor, in about 5 feet of water, together with 3 other boats anchored there, just as the storm came rolling through. Knowing we had a good hold on the anchor, we had an early night, and a good night’s sleep, ready for the next morning’s early departure.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZCRNWSo_tmqyZLRqU2ku7U3LOvsJpQG23kvCUoHKHOUIxqszgy9XvrBHUEQ5vzXlqnXQB8b2fOrzeJHGl4gkf_fB-tVEMUTMpnqyjTzWSa7Rk__HQc9JSFeOiwqIBvHe-7CWMEzHP0LMy/s1600/DSC_0007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZCRNWSo_tmqyZLRqU2ku7U3LOvsJpQG23kvCUoHKHOUIxqszgy9XvrBHUEQ5vzXlqnXQB8b2fOrzeJHGl4gkf_fB-tVEMUTMpnqyjTzWSa7Rk__HQc9JSFeOiwqIBvHe-7CWMEzHP0LMy/s640/DSC_0007.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storm Clouds at Sunset: Sapodilla Bay, Provodentiales, Turks and Caicos Islands</td></tr>
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It was still dark when we pulled up that anchor at about 5:30am that Monday morning, but having had a few early mornings in recent days, we knew it wouldn’t be long before the sun rose and it would be light enough to see. We followed our track out of the anchorage, and carefully watched the depth sounder as we made our way about 10 miles across the Caicos Bank. Soon it was light enough to see, and the depths, although still shallow, were nowhere near “danger level” and Dave and I hoisted the spinnaker and enjoyed the sail, while the kids slept in. As we crossed over the bank, there was a clear, distinguishing line where the depths went from the 10’s to the 100’s to the 1000’s of feet.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG5a7KmHX7dtZnsITk7feW1JIeFMzLfHbBRGkoXsi0BKNphoHvZQPT8S-33yefXuxUTInZD1KQ5tt8ek8RpePV0bAF_8XSx4wmzcSzKb1ClgHMdLAd8UGCtwMR1JPAbFJrHOA501CrVVCh/s1600/DSC_0011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG5a7KmHX7dtZnsITk7feW1JIeFMzLfHbBRGkoXsi0BKNphoHvZQPT8S-33yefXuxUTInZD1KQ5tt8ek8RpePV0bAF_8XSx4wmzcSzKb1ClgHMdLAd8UGCtwMR1JPAbFJrHOA501CrVVCh/s640/DSC_0011.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hard to catch on camera, but there is a distinct line where the depths drop off</td></tr>
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We started on our course, heading towards Mayaguana, the closest of the Bahamian islands, and the Plana Cays, a few uninhabited islands further west than Mayaguana. We had decided on this route, giving ourselves the option of stopping at either of the two places if we wanted to, or continuing if so desired. However, the wind did not play along with our plans, and in order to keep the spinnaker up, and make some decent speeds, (and have a more comfortable ride), the better route to take was a more southerly course, taking us south of Acklins and Crooked Islands (instead of north of them), and then on the lee of Long Island to Georgetown. Committing to this course, meant committing to an overnight sail, but both Dave and I agreed that we just wanted to get to Georgetown in the Exhumas. So we changed course, and immediately you could feel the difference. It was smooth sailing, with the wind behind us, and the waves a little less from the side.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD1aWDTLXWdjTKZdmQjnKI942kESVJZxychj7ksHGrvFiXG5AgFH95Ry_42tuKQ4IGl1HBv0fxQohPK_ZxhIbmcUo_kfG7AbWtX7RPPC0hvko7spt2vUCM4BbBd-GgFw7PJZeluWaSyQYD/s1600/bahama+flag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD1aWDTLXWdjTKZdmQjnKI942kESVJZxychj7ksHGrvFiXG5AgFH95Ry_42tuKQ4IGl1HBv0fxQohPK_ZxhIbmcUo_kfG7AbWtX7RPPC0hvko7spt2vUCM4BbBd-GgFw7PJZeluWaSyQYD/s640/bahama+flag.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way, we raised the Bahamian courtesy flag, and raised our yellow Q flag</td></tr>
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Sadly though, the wind died throughout the day, and we realized that at the speeds we were doing, we would not make Georgetown in daylight hours the following day. We continued anyway, waiting to see what the next day, Tuesday, would bring. At about 1:30am, we reached the turn at the southern point of Acklins, and needed to change course. The wind was still out of the east, (we had hoped that it would switch to a more of a south east direction as we made the turn, as it had been predicted to, but didn’t). We were at too much of a tight reach for the spinnaker, and had to take it down. Out came the troops at 1:30am, Ben at the helm and tasked with letting out the spinnaker sheet, Gaby at the winch, winching in the spinnaker guy rope, and Dave and I pulling the sock down over the massive sail. It was a first for us, taking down big blue in the middle of the night, but it all went smoothly. We raised the mainsail and let out the jib, and continued on our course.<br />
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When Dave took over the shift at around 6:00am, we waited another 30 or so minutes, and then made another sail change. Main came down, jib was rolled up, and the spinnaker raised once again. About 2 and a half hours later, it was time for a change again…<br />
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I had gone for a nap, when Dave woke me, and said, “We need to drop the spinnaker”. I got up, a little disorientated, having just fallen fast asleep! Our original plan had been to go through the shallow, leeward side of Long Island, and then through a cut called Hogs Cay, and then on to Georgetown. He said he’d been reading the cruising guide and studying the charts, and read that the cut that we had planned to take was “hard bottom”. We knew it was going to be shallow, but the theory had always been if you run aground, it was sand, and you just wait for the tide to come up and float you out. Having the cut be hard bottom, meant you could run aground, and possibly do damage to the bottom of the boat. Plus the tides were not working too well in our favor, and the thought of having to maybe turn around if we couldn’t make it through the cut, was just too much to contemplate, so we made a last minute decision and changed course yet again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitryXrh15dUGJ1yNAzzcJXCKWspo8aC0Q4EHB7CJ01l2wOI7ayov82139UgLPX22kXeufnP4YDyPlfOGlEVp7yy4zm_nQwx-D-e89263yt4SvtCR2vOo0d9KFeqrA_Cns9LVy0OfkzYh56/s1600/Course+Change.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="975" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitryXrh15dUGJ1yNAzzcJXCKWspo8aC0Q4EHB7CJ01l2wOI7ayov82139UgLPX22kXeufnP4YDyPlfOGlEVp7yy4zm_nQwx-D-e89263yt4SvtCR2vOo0d9KFeqrA_Cns9LVy0OfkzYh56/s640/Course+Change.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our tracker shows our two course changes</td></tr>
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We doused the spinnaker and began motoring, thinking we could raise it again as we came around the corner of Long Island. But the winds had other intentions, and as we made our way up Long Island, the wind just got lighter and lighter, at times as little as 3 or 4 knots. So we motored, making speeds of around 5.5 to 6 knots, just not quite fast enough to get us to the top of the island in time for sunset, at 7:30pm. We then still had to go a few miles around the corner, and negotiate a few reefs into an anchorage. At one stage, when the wind looked like it might come up a little, we put up “Puff” our trusty Code Zero/Gennaker, and that helped boost our speeds to the 7 knot range. Arrival time was looking to be around 7:00pm, which was all we needed. And then the wind died again. When this happened, we fired up the second engine, and although really loath to burn the extra diesel, we needed just that extra knot of speed that the second engine could bring, to get us there before sunset.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMsd2lATZLN1uq2CGCgTGXl5DqR0CDJlNtRvi5CRCaZU2W4JrzeMJzNIkSVTgVFtPzzuCozo9pjeLJL7bN4QyfnSObVzMJoAoiTe0H21D6j2iX2Kqca0g3pGV5mWXw6Ak9-uMTGFKjcMGt/s1600/DSC_0027-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMsd2lATZLN1uq2CGCgTGXl5DqR0CDJlNtRvi5CRCaZU2W4JrzeMJzNIkSVTgVFtPzzuCozo9pjeLJL7bN4QyfnSObVzMJoAoiTe0H21D6j2iX2Kqca0g3pGV5mWXw6Ak9-uMTGFKjcMGt/s640/DSC_0027-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White cliffs at Santa Maria at the top of Long Island, as we came around the corner before anchoring. There is a statue on top of the hill, that is hard to see in this picture, commemorating Christopher Columbus</td></tr>
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Just after 7:00pm, with one crew member at each bow (Ben and Gaby), and me on the roof spotting coral heads and shallow patches, we rounded the top of Long Island and carefully picked our way into the anchorage, which didn’t have a name on our charts! There were 3 other boats anchored there, so we figured it should be OK. We dropped our anchor in about 6 feet of crystal clear water: there was no need to dive on the anchor to check it, we could see it well dug in from the boat! 30 minutes later, just before 8:00pm, we were sitting on the deck in our bean bags, enjoying the last of the sun’s rays…safe at anchor, safe in the Bahamas!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKQ426eUAV7rVvJrn3Mt9cUA1tK5ct9XXgPxMGLXGXWANotaNSxb0sPbY-0DS0bat_o1DJFUGAKBMJ7xoJD6nZhCItZROCOXj-UDSYYujwQWy1OtAxigmNlPKAmTw7S03iNyuEm207I0lL/s1600/IMG20180424190551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKQ426eUAV7rVvJrn3Mt9cUA1tK5ct9XXgPxMGLXGXWANotaNSxb0sPbY-0DS0bat_o1DJFUGAKBMJ7xoJD6nZhCItZROCOXj-UDSYYujwQWy1OtAxigmNlPKAmTw7S03iNyuEm207I0lL/s400/IMG20180424190551.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bahama arrival: Gaby catches the sunset<br />(<i>photo by Gaby</i>)</td></tr>
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-69554809120445932542018-04-22T08:58:00.000-04:002018-04-22T08:58:14.394-04:00Antigua, Sint Maarten, BVIs and Beyond…<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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When you find yourself in Guadeloupe and are heading north, you look at a map and realize there are 2 ways you can go: you can either go to a little more west and visit Montserrat, St. Kitts & Nevis, St. Eustatius and Saba, or you can go north to Antigua and Barbuda. We would love to have visited them all, but time was running out, and the anchorages in Monteserrat, St. Kitts & Nevis and St. Eustatius seemed a little less appealing than Antigua, although the islands themselves sounded interesting (Monteserrat in particular, seems to be 2 islands in one, the southern part, barren and desolate, covered in volcanic ash, having had a catastrophic volcanic eruption in 1995 and another as recent as February 2010! And the northern part, green and lush). Antigua is a little more to windward than we’d like, but having read about Nelson’s Dockyard and having received some good reports from our friends on “Moby”, we decided to brave the headwinds and go for Antigua!<br />
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It took us a full day of bashing into the wind to get to Antigua, having left Deshaies in Guadeloupe, just before sunrise on April 10th. We had 2 superyachts pass us, just gliding through the water with no problem at all! We would later see one of those boats moored in Nelson’s Dockyard along with many other “big boats”! Antigua is, of course, home to the mega yacht, and Antigua Race Week was coming up at the end of the month. <br />
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As we entered English Bay we realized what a find this natural harbor must have been for the Royal Navy at the end of the 17th century! The entrance to this natural, protected harbor could hardly be seen from the ocean, and it was no surprise that the British kept their fleet in here. The first naval defences were built in 1704, and English Harbour became a Royal Navy dockyard in 1730. The dockyard was named Nelson’s Dockyard after the famous British Admiral, Horatio Nelson, of Battle of Trafalgar fame, who commanded the Royal Navy fleet at sea in the Caribbean from 1784 to 1787. After it was abandoned in 1889, the dockyard fell into disrepair.<br />
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The dockyard has now been beautifully restored, and the old buildings, originally stores and workshops, now house restaurants, shops, and small inns, as well as a lovely little museum that captured the history of that time, with special emphasis on Admiral Horatio Nelson. Benjamin was in his element, marveling at the model ships and the stories of the battles that took place. He is a bit of a history buff, and loves this stuff! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Through a room displaying old cannons and artifacts, Ben can be seen reading about the HMS Victory (bottom left). One of the original shutters from the dockyard buildings with "graffiti" engravings from the 1700's! Gaby wonders if she could be a ship's figurehead</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the beautiful old boats that were at Nelson's Dockyard, presumably for Classic Boat Race Week, that was starting on April 18th. We were fascinated by the detail on some of these old boats: look at that intricate rudder! And on the other scale, a sleek, modern superyacht, also at Nelson's Dockyard</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAl0dzOaiLMMUbVm6TM_8wXRSMEtFELJZnkVr726gyWDOauf6hGF_QUruhkyQf9lZggNuDTvUFMLh1VLSC27bqQfe9_8X1rzh0R-DSEEhs75AFku37CZV3fKnykMJjI2c3SPzjxTF2gGYz/s1600/DSC_0979_LI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="737" data-original-width="1600" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAl0dzOaiLMMUbVm6TM_8wXRSMEtFELJZnkVr726gyWDOauf6hGF_QUruhkyQf9lZggNuDTvUFMLh1VLSC27bqQfe9_8X1rzh0R-DSEEhs75AFku37CZV3fKnykMJjI2c3SPzjxTF2gGYz/s640/DSC_0979_LI.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An aerial picture of English Harbour (taken of a picture in the museum, so excuse the quality), but it gives a good overview. The red "X" shows where we were anchored</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwzv0ytVu4-0imWTewL8ag29f1hF96iWl7ezlwYRc8HzuiOw-GV95nIbk0Fsh7wXQZGkwVpZckkVVLW8cWYbkqnv5y6YWjC0PNae1r8JDZ7AtykEjYoFqfz4zu9ghXa5W-BRfmuIjrZXxE/s1600/dockyard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwzv0ytVu4-0imWTewL8ag29f1hF96iWl7ezlwYRc8HzuiOw-GV95nIbk0Fsh7wXQZGkwVpZckkVVLW8cWYbkqnv5y6YWjC0PNae1r8JDZ7AtykEjYoFqfz4zu9ghXa5W-BRfmuIjrZXxE/s640/dockyard.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some images of the restored buildings in the dockyard</td></tr>
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We also walked over to Fort Berkeley and enjoyed the view out onto the Atlantic. The guard hut and powder storage room from when they were built in the late 1700’s still stand today. The whole area, Nelson’s Dockyard National Park, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLxUrispg1TLyIewYY8fx-2aAWC5b8IGfqmK_-EUeAVgS-M2d9HIGssaN0WKA2ourIWSkR3muyIRMP-LNQD1pJfSQsaPRAeiQ8l-9VRQPdkPp-a61_GccXmflfF_7Mgiit42K-0-lxWk-E/s1600/Fort+berkeley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1200" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLxUrispg1TLyIewYY8fx-2aAWC5b8IGfqmK_-EUeAVgS-M2d9HIGssaN0WKA2ourIWSkR3muyIRMP-LNQD1pJfSQsaPRAeiQ8l-9VRQPdkPp-a61_GccXmflfF_7Mgiit42K-0-lxWk-E/s640/Fort+berkeley.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top: Fort Berkely seen from the water as we came in: the guard house on the left, the powder house in the middle; Middle: The old powder house; we had a very sad moment, when Dave's favourite flip flop broke!!! He bought them in Australia and LOVED them!! Bottom: the cannons guarding the entrance to English Harbour from Fort Berkeley</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWVXLKgn1cyNwAA6kJ7ySke07J2p-QRAFFWBflixZRtMaMTq4Em3wiJRm4oKFa1v_oURfoWccARD4OQAonDU7LEyJIX7xDJ2h46ImYHvdpeWXe9daufJKmXrK_AuFcGE2KtBtfC6PKRBI4/s1600/DSC_1061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWVXLKgn1cyNwAA6kJ7ySke07J2p-QRAFFWBflixZRtMaMTq4Em3wiJRm4oKFa1v_oURfoWccARD4OQAonDU7LEyJIX7xDJ2h46ImYHvdpeWXe9daufJKmXrK_AuFcGE2KtBtfC6PKRBI4/s640/DSC_1061.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool Runnings at anchor in English Harbour, Antigua at sunset</td></tr>
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After 2 days in English Harbor, we checked out, and made our way north to Deep Bay. The sail was nice, with the wind behind us, not like our trip over from Guadeloupe! It looked like there were many great anchorages on the whole island, especially on the windward side, that we didn’t get a chance to visit, and it looks like Antigua would definitely have been worthy of a longer stay. As we got closer to Deep Bay, we noticed an AIS signal on our chart plotter, belonging to a boat anchored in Deep Bay. We clicked on it, and immediately recognized the name: ALMA! Jonas (the skipper) on Alma (the boat) is our single-hander friend (meaning he is sailing by himself) from Sweden, who we first met in Durban, and then have met up with along the way, in PE, Cape Town, St. Helena, and most recently, Ascension Island. It is there that we had last seen him, so it was great to catch up and hear about his journey across the Atlantic, which took him close to 30 days! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggzqxi6H2NUwfhfRDF9tLQHDaG4GlUMEfdJou-h9H08GSKiuJ3lmW0DZ8R3XKyTSne9CRxmTubL32tCfv5pD3sg6-MkES19iU5LXLgtB8u5UR487a3JpIrsG8m9vNk0yXJQGPSiaiMv2j8/s1600/Deep+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1200" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggzqxi6H2NUwfhfRDF9tLQHDaG4GlUMEfdJou-h9H08GSKiuJ3lmW0DZ8R3XKyTSne9CRxmTubL32tCfv5pD3sg6-MkES19iU5LXLgtB8u5UR487a3JpIrsG8m9vNk0yXJQGPSiaiMv2j8/s640/Deep+Bay.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailing along the coast of Antigua, and anchored in Deep Bay</td></tr>
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There is a wreck of a ship called the “Andes” in Deep Bay, that lies in pretty shallow water, that we were able to snorkel on. Unfortunately the water was a little murky when we snorkeled. The story goes that the Andes, a three masted iron barque was on its way from Trinidad to Peru in 1905. When it got to Antigua, the crew noticed smoke rising from the hollow masts indicating a fire. They were denied entry into St. John’s as they were considered to be carrying a dangerous cargo, so they anchored in Deep Bay. When they opened the cargo hatches to check on the smoke, the infusion of fresh air caused the smoldering fire to burst into flame. The ship sank in an upright position, and its one mast still sticks out above the water.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3kSFdUXjvzfpl-iVgxq7duc2nxtKFgGy1uTaztqoc8c2lp_8kjYzC90CpXpVHn1A-Vu2ipxMCgazBtaWgnC6-x4YeOrlergfpuW57v9H7NM4eE4bwHJu8OyHLnNEi4Kt_zmjQkp8He65K/s1600/wreck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1200" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3kSFdUXjvzfpl-iVgxq7duc2nxtKFgGy1uTaztqoc8c2lp_8kjYzC90CpXpVHn1A-Vu2ipxMCgazBtaWgnC6-x4YeOrlergfpuW57v9H7NM4eE4bwHJu8OyHLnNEi4Kt_zmjQkp8He65K/s640/wreck.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby snorkeling on (through!) the wreck and some of the corals that have grown on it</td></tr>
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The following morning, we left the anchorage once again in the early hours of the morning. We had over 80 miles to get to our intended destination: Sint Maarten. If we were not able to make it in time, we were planning to anchor in St. Barts. However, the wind was strong, and we put the spinnaker up, and we flew to Sint Maarten! It was a fast passage, with Cool Runnings surfing down waves at 14 – 15 knots! It was also a little uncomfortable, as the swell came from the side, and the wind angle was a little too close to 120 degrees (for having the spinnaker up), so Dave hand steered most of the way. But at about 4:30pm, we made it to Simpson Bay on the Dutch side of the island. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9AeBGyvWPBvQidmc8eq_owrfvuEQ_w4hB2qXOPI3csSDC9CaMN4UED_uq68vgnp2HL7m5hrpsBtXf2uc0cmBQh4oksViw_ySrMSrp8jvwWPdVc7vKbpSilr3En_vS5nsEsrG39IVCjnXz/s1600/st+martin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1200" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9AeBGyvWPBvQidmc8eq_owrfvuEQ_w4hB2qXOPI3csSDC9CaMN4UED_uq68vgnp2HL7m5hrpsBtXf2uc0cmBQh4oksViw_ySrMSrp8jvwWPdVc7vKbpSilr3En_vS5nsEsrG39IVCjnXz/s640/st+martin.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flying the spinnaker on the way to Sint Maarten and congratulating Dave and Cool Runnings on becoming circumnavigators once we'd anchored in Simpson Bay</td></tr>
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Dutch Sint Maarten and French St. Martin occupy two halves of the same island, and while Christopher Columbus claimed it for Spain in 1493, they showed little interest in it, and the French settled in the north, while the salt ponds attracted Dutch settlers to the south. A treaty in 1648 divided the island between France and the Netherlands, and this contract of peaceful coexistence is one of the oldest active, undisputed treaties on the planet!<br />
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Sint Maarten was also significant to us, as this is where we bought Cool Runnings back in 2013. Dave and I flew here to look at her and finalize the paperwork, and Dave came back 2 months later with his friends Adrian and Garrick (who also sailed across the first part of the Pacific with us), to sail her back to Florida. This meant that this is where Dave and Cool Runings crossed their outgoing wake, and therefore officially became a circumnavigator on Friday, the 13th of April, 2018! Congratulations, Dave and our trusy Cool Runnings…Ben, Gaby and I are not far behind you! We celebrated with dinner at "Lagoonies", where Cool Runnings, (at that time called "Drift Away") had been moored when we first went to see her.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuiZqoBxtW91NPMAzJWStHyGb1Q6fVsz3GW5t0G-pHTBPQmK8_5ESi9Jmhcwq-4bdk9Wt1NtyLUbIucv_TTKHjVp6KYxJtFeZvV9laCOuAWgOZAGmYwt1e35Rp6q4EgIWL6AhNhLpNE5AC/s1600/Lagoonies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1200" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuiZqoBxtW91NPMAzJWStHyGb1Q6fVsz3GW5t0G-pHTBPQmK8_5ESi9Jmhcwq-4bdk9Wt1NtyLUbIucv_TTKHjVp6KYxJtFeZvV9laCOuAWgOZAGmYwt1e35Rp6q4EgIWL6AhNhLpNE5AC/s640/Lagoonies.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Full circle for Dave: Lagoonies(top), and toasting to a great accomplishment: circumnavigating!</td></tr>
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Sint Maarten was also badly hit by the 2017 hurricanes Irma and Maria, and we took the dinghy into Simpson’s Bay and the damage was still profound. While much has been done to repair the carnage, there were still sunken boats and boats washed up on the shore. It was so sad to see brand new, big boats, both power and sail, that Mother Nature just gobbled up and spat out. We continue to see the damage caused by that 2017 hurricane season in the Caribbean, in the Virgin Islands, and even here in the Turks and Caicos, where I am writing this blog from. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjH3RBg2QvbXQGDxckkFudHuqIn-hM-uxgAQJLfIqmQCF4M7e07YsTSEO-6v16eNZQOBIrlJgAagjvZAmugnyOQnaFOmoB8BUi5R5DjJnpfXptIWDq2wc6LdHFlJptaC_vIR1iDHYhXs0/s1600/damage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1200" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjH3RBg2QvbXQGDxckkFudHuqIn-hM-uxgAQJLfIqmQCF4M7e07YsTSEO-6v16eNZQOBIrlJgAagjvZAmugnyOQnaFOmoB8BUi5R5DjJnpfXptIWDq2wc6LdHFlJptaC_vIR1iDHYhXs0/s640/damage.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Super yacht partially sunk, "Dreams" up in smoke, a beautiful Lagoon 52 just completely destroyed and damage to a building</td></tr>
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The next morning, Saturday, April 14th, we did it all again, and left before dawn for the British Virgin Islands. The distance was slightly shorter, about 75 miles, and we had similar conditions. We put the spinnaker up, and started flying! The wind was slightly stronger, but the angle was better and we made great progress, doing constant speeds of around 10 knots, surfing up to 16 knots! We had a squally day, and one of those squalls brought us blinding rain and winds of up to 36 knots, 34 sustained! People marvel that we can sail with our spinnaker up in those conditions, but it works well, and it is fast, as long as you keep the boat surfing so as to keep the apparent wind in the sails to a minimum.....Dave always hand steers during these heavy winds so he can keep the boat surfing safely! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-6UW8iE1TcSi1YpEzKxO93VsivtzNATlrKpiq2IqBQevHzCbU-50SxerMxDsBRH4ihW4DfhNJEXl7XatoyEiJt2849B3IWZEf0jiB4dixEKiNf-IpwREnDkyhU6eUvQKoR_d-LDd1l1Qj/s1600/to+bvi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1200" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-6UW8iE1TcSi1YpEzKxO93VsivtzNATlrKpiq2IqBQevHzCbU-50SxerMxDsBRH4ihW4DfhNJEXl7XatoyEiJt2849B3IWZEf0jiB4dixEKiNf-IpwREnDkyhU6eUvQKoR_d-LDd1l1Qj/s640/to+bvi.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fast ride to the BVIs</td></tr>
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We arrived at the top of the BVIs in the afternoon, and headed past Necker Island (Richard Branson’s private island), the hurricane damage already clearly visible. The islands looked dry and desolate. While some greenery is coming back, you can see the trees have been stripped bare, or completely gone, and the damage to the buildings was devastating. Repairs on Necker Island are coming along nicely, and you could see a backhoe in Branson’s yard, but he has the money to repair, and repair quickly. The Bitter End Yacht club on the other hand, was a different story all together.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRwHvjHLEh7DoCQ6J_nshw7jDIte2jfWGLgFJFX7zSjpXjfz54_G5Y-5m1L0sd8983_tulJAA8sJ4QmBDwTJ4Wa0-sF4EECez7ZkZfaKv9xs3gv_OYsFPgA4FMEUhb4nzn-QZJ1MX1MyUt/s1600/bvi+damage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1200" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRwHvjHLEh7DoCQ6J_nshw7jDIte2jfWGLgFJFX7zSjpXjfz54_G5Y-5m1L0sd8983_tulJAA8sJ4QmBDwTJ4Wa0-sF4EECez7ZkZfaKv9xs3gv_OYsFPgA4FMEUhb4nzn-QZJ1MX1MyUt/s640/bvi+damage.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First images of the destruction: Necker Island on the bottom left</td></tr>
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We entered the reef between Prickly Pear Island and Virgin Gorda and sailed down towards where the Bitter End Yacht Club used to be. It was so eerie seeing this huge, empty mooring field, devoid of a single boat, when in times past it would have been jam packed. The Bitter End itself is pretty much gone, as is the resort on Saba Rock. It was a sobering moment to realize once again, the force of nature and how insignificant we are in the big scheme of things. We anchored behind Prickly Pear Island with a just a handful of other boats and listened to some goats bleating on the barren island. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzdUvtfRsgkk8Xtru6AJmTXMD7xtQXwRY8djk2JMbK-RI8C8JCEC4Y3SspJwumxLTW0BNhR8tOqlnXBciCgvH53yLZi0a5YuV-2PZEqtXTYlAkE0PYI5wBVt8zYd9HuHfq9zWwF3TAg0bN/s1600/Bitter+end.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1200" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzdUvtfRsgkk8Xtru6AJmTXMD7xtQXwRY8djk2JMbK-RI8C8JCEC4Y3SspJwumxLTW0BNhR8tOqlnXBciCgvH53yLZi0a5YuV-2PZEqtXTYlAkE0PYI5wBVt8zYd9HuHfq9zWwF3TAg0bN/s640/Bitter+end.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Bitter End Yacht Club: a terrible sight for anyone to see; heartbreaking for those who knew what it was like before. The sign "Out of Order" on the mooring buoy says it all. The Bitter End is "Closed for Renovations". 7 months after the storms, it still looks like a war zone</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegAATs6C4lgORrZdX6bktiXcQTAtUdlCp4sofr04MbaDf0qQto75ej5W5Kl_fLxLGN4LPX1jrDwsXuHZAuDJeMLSsjZI2syJfBnZbEGkvhsDe7WUqNPoMYJoAZ9fIaJDhS4M02JG6_1Ks/s1600/prickly+pear+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1200" height="593" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegAATs6C4lgORrZdX6bktiXcQTAtUdlCp4sofr04MbaDf0qQto75ej5W5Kl_fLxLGN4LPX1jrDwsXuHZAuDJeMLSsjZI2syJfBnZbEGkvhsDe7WUqNPoMYJoAZ9fIaJDhS4M02JG6_1Ks/s640/prickly+pear+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We joined the few boats anchored off the desolate Prickly Pear Island, but Gaby, our water baby, decided to swim off the back of the boat and wash all the sadness away. As the sun set, a boat came by with a little girl sitting in the sail bag: <i>that</i> is the cruising life!</td></tr>
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The following morning, we made our way down along Virgin Gorda to “The Baths”, and although the islands may be damaged, the sailing is still spectacular, and we could see why it is such a popular sailing destination. We saw very few boats, and when we got to the Baths, there were only 2 other boats there. The Baths is a collection of huge granite boulders that seem to have been haphazardly tossed there, forming sheltered pool (“baths”) along the beach. It reminded us a lot of the Seychelles, particularly La Digue, where we saw similar huge granite boulders. There is a trail you can walk along, going over and through the rocks until you get to a beautiful sheltered bay called Devil’s Bay. Those of you who have been to the BVIs know all about it. It is usually crowded, but we did the walk by ourselves, only encountering a couple of groups of people on our way back from Devil’s Bay.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrR3rMmGbMfjWHeNCVOAbJdO47Cxw_HJVL4UwMzduUOxKO4tlcCme_P6FmKHBHf1Ww62vUJAt2_e6NcgOQlR9crybk2EAOp3oXSNHy8OnduEz8SLjjYhgvNc8Mt86mhpGzG958KW_Yk1N/s1600/Baths.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1200" height="594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrR3rMmGbMfjWHeNCVOAbJdO47Cxw_HJVL4UwMzduUOxKO4tlcCme_P6FmKHBHf1Ww62vUJAt2_e6NcgOQlR9crybk2EAOp3oXSNHy8OnduEz8SLjjYhgvNc8Mt86mhpGzG958KW_Yk1N/s640/Baths.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool Runnings anchored off The Baths in Virgin Gorda, BVI. The photo on the bottom left shows the size of the rocks, when compared to the little people in the corner of the picture!</td></tr>
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After enjoying the morning at the Baths, we continued our sail through the BVI, and checked in on Foxy’s and the Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost van Dyke Island, both iconic BVI watering holes. Both have been repaired and both are open and operating again, but we could see no resemblance to the bay we remember anchoring in when we went to Foxy’s all those years ago when we chartered our first cat with Adrian and Garrick and their significant others. While much is being done to rebuild, you can still see debris strewn up on the hills behind the houses, bars and hotels, and the beautiful, thick, green vegetation is gone. But it will come back, as will the buildings and as will the boats.<br />
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We anchored that night off St. Thomas, and left very early the next morning, Monday, April 16th, on our first “passage” since our Atlantic crossing. We had 400 miles to go to get to the Turks and Caicos, and it would take us 4 days and 3 nights. The first day was magic, spinnaker up, 15 – 20 knots, doing good speeds and making good time. While we have flown the spinnaker at night on previous passages, we were a little nervous about the squalls we’d experienced just a few days before (remember the 36 knots!), so caution prevailed, and we took the spinnaker down and put up the mainsail and the jib. It was probably the wrong decision as the wind died and switched to almost directly behind us. Had we had our spinnaker up, we could have continued making decent speeds and possibly saved us an extra night at sea, but as it turned out, we battled along with 4 – 5 knots, the jib being almost useless as it was blanketed by the mainsail, and we slowly lost all the ground we’d gained during the day. The following day the spinnaker came back up, and although the wind was light, we had a decent sail that day, that night and the following day. By the third evening, we were coming up on Grand Turk, and while we’d originally planned to check in at South Caicos, we decided to go slowly through the night, and get to the entrance of the Caicos Bank by first light. We would then have the day to cross the bank, and reach Providenciales, the largest of the Turks and Caicos islands, by afternoon. We sailed on a sliver of a jib, and bobbed along at about 3 knots all night, making it to the entrance at about 7:00am. I believe this is the first time in the 2 years of cruising, that Dave purposely <i>slowed down</i>!!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This satellite image from our tracker showing the Turks and Caicos islands, and the shallow Caicos bank</td></tr>
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The Caicos Bank is an area of about 40 miles of shallow water, between 8 – 20 feet deep, with a sandy, limestone bottom, strewn with coral heads, stretching out south from the Caicos Islands. We could only navigate this by day. The water color is like none we have ever seen before (except for Dave, who had sailed across the bank when bringing Cool Runnings home!). It is spectacular, with turquoise water as far as the eye can see. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailing the Caicos Bank: the water is just spectacular!</td></tr>
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We had decided to follow Dave’s tracks and went to South Side Marina for a short “technical stop” as well as a Turks and Caicos sight-seeing stop. Dave had stopped here in 2013 when bringing the boat back. Being in a marina allowed us (or should I say Dave!) to fit the 2 parts we had picked up in Martinique, as well as allowing us to do laundry (all sheets and towels…something which takes about 5 loads in our small machine, but was able to be done in one in the big marina machine!), and a last shop at the big IGA Supermarket. We also filled up with diesel and had our 3 LPG gas bottles refilled, so we are ready for the Bahamas! All of this should last us until we get home.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is how you do it, baby!</td></tr>
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We had a lovely dinner at an outdoor restaurant, Las Brisas, overlooking Chalk Sound, and we toured the island in our rental car, “Jo Jo”. We continued to marvel at the water color…it even reflects in the clouds, making the puffy white clouds have a beautiful, turquoise tinge. Even here, though, the destruction from the hurricanes can be seen, with the majority of the damage seeming to be to roofs that have either been partly or completely ripped off. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner at Las Brisas; our faithful rental, Jo Jo; Dave and I at Chalk Sound; a view of the Caicos Bank from the south side; Cool Runnings at South Side Marina; and that blue, blue water!</td></tr>
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Our plan is leave here either today or Monday, and head toward the Bahamas. We are so close now, to our long awaited reunion with “Moby” whom we last saw in Capetown in December 2017! Loic’s 50th birthday is on April 28th, and Ben’s 14th birthday is on April 29th, so we’ve long been planning a joint birthday celebration. Hang on, Moby, we’re on our way! We are also looking forward to meeting s/v SandStar, a Lagoon 500 from our hometown, with 3 kids aboard, and a reunion with s/v Pandion, a Lagoon 440 who we met in the Dry Tortugas at the very start of our circumnavigation back in 2016.....both boats are within a few hundred miles of our current position in the Turks & Caicos, so we will meet everyone in the Bahamas in the coming days...we can't wait!!</div>
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-38833420017642766602018-04-12T09:07:00.000-04:002018-04-12T09:07:33.677-04:00Heading North: St. Lucia, Martinique and GuadeloupeWe keep heading in a Northerly direction. That is our only goal right now! After leaving Granny and Kayla in Bequia, (and checking out on Easter Sunday, and paying the overtime fees…😡!!!), we left Bequia at about 7:30am. We had a long day of sailing ahead of us, our goal was to get to Martinique, or at least to the top of St. Lucia. We decided to play it by ear.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our route north through the Windward Islands from St. Vincent and the Grenadines to Guadeloupe</td></tr>
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The hop from Bequia to St. Vincent is not a big one, and in no time at all, we were sailing on the leeward side of St. Vincent, sheltered by the big island, in calm, flat seas. St. Vincent is beautiful, with big, green mountains, but we kept sailing, having read too many stories of crime against cruisers on the island, and we also wanted to make as much distance as possible north.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailing past St. Vincent in clam, flat water. The island is mountainous and green</td></tr>
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We’d also read that the passage from St. Vincent to St. Lucia, about 30 miles, could be a tough one, but we had one of the best sails yet, and in no time at all, we saw the famous “Pitons” on the horizon. The “Pitons” are 2 mountain peaks rising out of the sea at the southerly end of St. Lucia, and the anchorage at their base is supposed to be lovely. However, having had a nice, early start, we wanted to keep going, so we admired them from a distance and kept on sailing. Like St. Vincent, St. Lucia is green and mountainous, and it looked gorgeous. By the end of the day, however, we decided to anchor in Rodney Bay, at the northern end of St. Lucia, for the night, so we could have a rest, and decided to tackle the crossing to Martinique the following morning.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Pitons were visible from at least 10 miles away, a distinct outline on the horizon. Ben and Gaby enjoy a rare treat: lollipops that Granny brought with her when visiting! Dave and I enjoy the scenery and one more shot of the Pitons</td></tr>
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On Tuesday, April 3rd, we awoke early as we do most mornings, and pulled up anchor. We had about 20 miles of open sea to cross before we could tuck into an anchorage in Martinique. We’ve discovered this sailing of the Caribbean is one of calm, sometimes windless sailing (or motoring) in the lee of the island, and then “hold on to your horses!” sailing as you have to cross the open stretches between the islands! This was no different, and a day after we arrived in Martinique, we heard the French Coast Guard broadcasting a “man over board” message after the sinking of a sailing vessel on the stretch of sea between St. Lucia and Martinique that we had just sailed!<br />
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We had a mission in Martinique: we had to pick up some spare parts that had been so kindly sent to us by David Farrington of Lagoon. During our Atlantic crossing, we had lost the protective cockpit drain cover that prevents waves splashing up into the cockpit drain, and the engine room air intake cover, due to rough seas. David (Farrington) had arranged to ship the parts to the Lagoon dealer in Martinique…thank you again, David…you and Lagoon have been absolutely amazing!!!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back in France! Dave hoists the French courtesy flag and as we entered, we had a taste of the old and the new: a French navy vessel and a tall ship with all sails hoisted</td></tr>
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We anchored in the very busy Le Marin anchorage, outside of the marina and mooring field. As we were setting the anchor, and testing that it was holding, “Shuti” came sailing past! They had dropped off their previous guests and picked up the next one, and were heading to another anchorage in Martinique. We said we’d hope to meet them there the following day, if all our chores went well in Le Marin. News that another boat, “Toomai” was there, spurred us on to get out of Le Marin! “Toomai” was the first boat we met with kids on board: Antoine (now 16) and Paul (now 11). We met them in Panama, and then saw them again in the Marquesas. Since then, we have missed each other, sometimes by days, as we have both sailed around the world!!! So, with this goal in mind, we quickly went ashore and tracked down the spare parts, which were ready and waiting for us! We also found a big grocery store, and did some provisioning, but we didn’t need all the much (just some beer and a few fresh goodies!).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back in France: fresh baguettes again!</td></tr>
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The next morning, we headed over to the fuel dock, figuring that here was as good a place as any to fill up with fuel, and so with fuel tanks topped up, water tanks full and galley provisions replenished, we were ready to head out to join Shuti and Toomai! We found them anchored in “Grande Anse D’Arlet”, about 15 miles away. On the way, we sailed past Diamond Rock, which, in 1804, was commissioned as a ship by the British Navy! During this time, the British had naval supremacy in the Caribbean, but ships were always scarce. Someone noticed Diamond Rock, and said that if the British had a spare ship, it would be a great place to put it! So the British commissioned the rock, putting cannons and a full crew of men on the snake infested pinnacle, and for 18 months, HMS Diamond Rock was a nasty surprise for any unsuspecting French or other enemy ship coming into Martinique!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkvICw5icRwh-A_BViTnuyJl9mPMQA0tfjR2BKgtCwu4_ac4GTUiIdxksitW-vHC7lr9Z38-RAPP34x-tPyf9DqUKtHxXa49WkDjy5xx_pIPZbwHb9Z4ADzJY_VFbPRUpJUdQpcui1dJcV/s1600/DSC_0803.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkvICw5icRwh-A_BViTnuyJl9mPMQA0tfjR2BKgtCwu4_ac4GTUiIdxksitW-vHC7lr9Z38-RAPP34x-tPyf9DqUKtHxXa49WkDjy5xx_pIPZbwHb9Z4ADzJY_VFbPRUpJUdQpcui1dJcV/s640/DSC_0803.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HMS Diamond Rock: not really much to look at!</td></tr>
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Anchored in Grande Anse D’Arlet, we had a great reunion with both Shuti and Toomai, but especially Toomai, whom we had not seen in over 2 years!! The kids had so much fun reconnecting, that we decided to stay an extra day, so they could spend the day together. After a morning of laughter and card games, they disappeared to the beach after lunch, and we didn’t see them again, until sunset, when they returned sunburned and tired, and Fabienne and Kristophe, the parents came over for drinks and dinner, and we had a lovely evening reminiscing and catching up on their travels, and they on ours. It was a sad farewell that Thursday, April 5th, when we said goodbye, not knowing when we would see them again, but glad that we finally were able to see our first boat friends again…at the beginning of our journey and now at the end!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_eHYR9PZDQ9T2GO1oHOdkAYQJN41J47lMm5sar0jCvIBe-I-arWHRoBuf85_wAKhbD5vwBJ7DPzpEY5DNUV7j9a9SkqfDITTV1BKHRInC8SCDxU2uXj3HCqzXxPbGNHsmqxVv_rf9pvaP/s1600/DSC_0815.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_eHYR9PZDQ9T2GO1oHOdkAYQJN41J47lMm5sar0jCvIBe-I-arWHRoBuf85_wAKhbD5vwBJ7DPzpEY5DNUV7j9a9SkqfDITTV1BKHRInC8SCDxU2uXj3HCqzXxPbGNHsmqxVv_rf9pvaP/s640/DSC_0815.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Fabienne, Kristophe, Antoine and Paul </td></tr>
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The next day saw us heading up the coast of Martinique, another 15 miles or so, to the town of St. Pierre. This was a lovely stop, with the town having an amazing history, which those of you on Instagram may already have learned about from Benjamin and Gaby’s posts. St. Pierre lies at the foot of the volcano Mt. Pelée. At the turn of the century, St. Pierre was known as “Petite Paris”; it was the commercial, social and cultural center of Martinique, with a population of around 30,000. Despite some warnings in April of 1902, when the volcano started rumbling, and after 2 eruptions on May 2nd and May 5th, that actually resulted in some deaths, very few people left St. Pierre, choosing to believe that they were safe. This was partly due to wealthy plantation owners who did not want to endure the economic consequences of an evacuation, convincing the mayor, and the city folk that it was safe, and due to the mayor, who was up for re-election, choosing to believe the plantation owners, and not wanting to make the wrong call, which could have cost him his election. However, on the morning of May 8th, 1902, the side of the volcano facing St. Pierre glowed red, and erupted, releasing more energy than an atomic bomb, completely destroying the entire city of St. Pierre, and 30,000 of its inhabitants with it. Only 2 people survived: a cobbler and a prisoner, Cyparis, who was imprisoned for murder in a stone cell.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIdUxEkb8VxNnycdbStl2CHpGx59szwvBeapDw2MmDxxGJo9nC4wjNsFkphiCp55LwKz5w_o4MNZgjrcVW7-MA-VyAE4EuXGIl9-LrneQIzF3FlaLqwUV6m8JGBEMpSGICHVMjBEP3qbhK/s1600/DSC_0825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIdUxEkb8VxNnycdbStl2CHpGx59szwvBeapDw2MmDxxGJo9nC4wjNsFkphiCp55LwKz5w_o4MNZgjrcVW7-MA-VyAE4EuXGIl9-LrneQIzF3FlaLqwUV6m8JGBEMpSGICHVMjBEP3qbhK/s640/DSC_0825.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St. Pierre at the foot of Mt. Pelée</td></tr>
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The town was eventually rebuilt and many of the buildings have been built onto old structures, but many ruins remain. We spent an afternoon walking around the town, feeling like we were in Europe, and marveling at the old ruins and imagining what it must have been like before nature unleashed her wrath upon it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglk1CtUoukgNdK1CvTLJVaxxXQ4k4-lMAHYZg96TzYIl4UCs8YLCUyn5dVfB0Cds7X9mtsroXwAqnTJ1wARzDrCSDfcgxV5-1uRJn2jHxsItg6Xfs49QEC1a6ZMWsmQYRhlwZfYXeov__7/s1600/DSC_0831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglk1CtUoukgNdK1CvTLJVaxxXQ4k4-lMAHYZg96TzYIl4UCs8YLCUyn5dVfB0Cds7X9mtsroXwAqnTJ1wARzDrCSDfcgxV5-1uRJn2jHxsItg6Xfs49QEC1a6ZMWsmQYRhlwZfYXeov__7/s640/DSC_0831.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the main street that runs along the waterfront</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZjMOE0akzOVQurlzip38kicjtLPJQBJGSkBQKBgY8cYlKTcs7jjLBaWFbeOeDmaGCiciZTz-YcRv6BuRo_jDtDORjcOUdEFwHAZMSyoCdhkYfwLh7RXe2QQSzDqDVM0Ciett8tSd8LIaD/s1600/st+pierre1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZjMOE0akzOVQurlzip38kicjtLPJQBJGSkBQKBgY8cYlKTcs7jjLBaWFbeOeDmaGCiciZTz-YcRv6BuRo_jDtDORjcOUdEFwHAZMSyoCdhkYfwLh7RXe2QQSzDqDVM0Ciett8tSd8LIaD/s640/st+pierre1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some images of St. Pierre</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSSa3KY0HR4uZgt8UIE_RvFyXmv8J3GTC_SWwcNnCXFzgnW1-FLvnFLr0CpvgC3PlfH57t_Rx5l2FOrxGIy4WXr9bvQ557zNofGykCNu2Ce2Zit7vIvBWQJiy7FQscECJ3-c8q6CCrgYfY/s1600/ruins2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSSa3KY0HR4uZgt8UIE_RvFyXmv8J3GTC_SWwcNnCXFzgnW1-FLvnFLr0CpvgC3PlfH57t_Rx5l2FOrxGIy4WXr9bvQ557zNofGykCNu2Ce2Zit7vIvBWQJiy7FQscECJ3-c8q6CCrgYfY/s640/ruins2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cell in which Cyparis was imprisoned at the time of the eruption, the cell that saved his life! More ruins along a cobbled street and a view of the anchorage from the hill. Old cannons overlook the bay and more ruins are seen below. Cool Runnings is the 4th boat from the right</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbkmZpAzHXhGBC6fMZzqpqCivXN3Q1SpuaFQy74LnMt45WMvMcZN0qvN68FNO1bsyfJeRndgF7P5Q2m9vkPp8oteheLXyjvT3KQ51J11tYeghNdNIdnOZ3sVXlF37QQ7q3oTmce6NkgofS/s1600/ruins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbkmZpAzHXhGBC6fMZzqpqCivXN3Q1SpuaFQy74LnMt45WMvMcZN0qvN68FNO1bsyfJeRndgF7P5Q2m9vkPp8oteheLXyjvT3KQ51J11tYeghNdNIdnOZ3sVXlF37QQ7q3oTmce6NkgofS/s640/ruins.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ruins of St. Pierre: On the left are the theater ruins, on the right in the middle is a statue, depicting the suffering of the people of St Pierre, that was done by a student of the famous sculptor Rodin. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM_fL-LdcXpr1z6kzCN9oDmtJFe2Y23u1UvoWKKmDCw1cPeVRr35uhKQxvBA_8g4ACnaCnncjmt__Ldk25bCcl1fI_NFnb8kFw13iIBznWATOD3HHK-holtF_OYbobwRPxA9d5mWPUiOjT/s1600/st.+pierre+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM_fL-LdcXpr1z6kzCN9oDmtJFe2Y23u1UvoWKKmDCw1cPeVRr35uhKQxvBA_8g4ACnaCnncjmt__Ldk25bCcl1fI_NFnb8kFw13iIBznWATOD3HHK-holtF_OYbobwRPxA9d5mWPUiOjT/s640/st.+pierre+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset in St. Pierre; the town from the water, the beaches here are black from the volcanic sand</td></tr>
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Next on our northern agenda was Guadeloupe, also belonging to the French. In between Martinique and Guadeloupe lies the island of Dominica. Not wishing to check out of Martinique, check into Dominica, check out of Dominica and then back into France in Guadeloupe, we decided to skip Dominica and head straight for a small archipelago of islands to the south of Guadeloupe called The Saintes. Unfortunately Dominica was badly hit by one of the big hurricanes of 2017, and we could see the state of the trees as we sailed past. Dominica is known for its inland beauty; rivers and rainforests, but we could see the hills that had been stripped bare, with trees just sticking out like matchsticks. Shuti had visited Dominica in 2016 and were there again now, and they said they could definitely see the difference. The people are still shell-shocked, but are doing their best to rebuild.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrCxPpIfgdshD2NVnRZ_URpqz-XD0QhoukpqpNyX-uCuYKt4Lu7pKQlXHToAt-wIsnDWoZKYQJXKzr16czYi60obAO32ey8gnusbJNwLpijjPF6R272TGng57F5POr0w4pJSdu3TgY06AS/s1600/DSC_0893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrCxPpIfgdshD2NVnRZ_URpqz-XD0QhoukpqpNyX-uCuYKt4Lu7pKQlXHToAt-wIsnDWoZKYQJXKzr16czYi60obAO32ey8gnusbJNwLpijjPF6R272TGng57F5POr0w4pJSdu3TgY06AS/s640/DSC_0893.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interesting rock formation as we sail into the Saintes</td></tr>
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It was a long day, close to 80 miles. We were up at 4:30am and we were on our way around 5:00am, leaving St. Pierre asleep behind us. We enjoyed the now familiar romp between the islands, where the winds and seas come sweeping through from the Atlantic, with nothing to stop them, and then calm as the islands provide shelter from those same constant trade winds. About 12 hours later, we arrived in the Saintes, and found a spot to anchor off the small (and only) town of Bourg des Saintes on the island of Terre d’en Haut. There were lots of boats here, many on mooring buoys, and a few anchored, but we had expected this, as Moby had given us a “heads up” that it was crowded, but worth the visit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFC9nEZ4HtAsECnlcFQF4X_oDLlMku9uDwmUWoXEjyXIR5D2BvLJ-bZgjKH3xqJV-ZvH_8EGYSFQdrnrE2IaKSb0VAMQczN6XX9yl_js4kOW4yj6G4sAl_kLcvB_-DsJ3h6Tzdb6R5DrcR/s1600/DSC_0905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFC9nEZ4HtAsECnlcFQF4X_oDLlMku9uDwmUWoXEjyXIR5D2BvLJ-bZgjKH3xqJV-ZvH_8EGYSFQdrnrE2IaKSb0VAMQczN6XX9yl_js4kOW4yj6G4sAl_kLcvB_-DsJ3h6Tzdb6R5DrcR/s640/DSC_0905.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The picturesque town of Bourge des Saintes</td></tr>
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The town of Bourg des Saintes is picturesque with all the buildings having distinctive red roofs. The Saintes have been French since shortly after they were colonized, and there is a very strong link with France, and especially with Brittany (where, by the way, our friends on “Moby” are from!). Since there was never any agriculture on these dry islands, there were never any slaves, so the population is overwhelmingly French, and not Caribbean. In fact, as we stepped onto the dinghy dock, and walked into the little town, we were immediately transported to a small fishing village somewhere in France! Baguettes and pastries were displayed in the little cafés and you were greeted with “Bonjour!” wherever you went!<br />
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We walked the steep road up to Fort Napoleon, sitting on top of the hill overlooking all the islands of Isle de Saintes, and as far as the main island of Guadeloupe. The fort, originally named Fort Louis, was built in 1782, but was destroyed by the British in 1809. It was rebuilt in 1867 and named after Napoleon III. However, after that time, it never saw use in battle, and was used instead as a penitentiary. As we walked up the hill, and saw the outside walls, we all (rather arrogantly) thought the same thing: “another common-garden fort”! How many forts have we seen on our travels?! But this one turned out to be worth the walk up the hill! It has been beautifully restored, and we happily paid our €17 entrance fee to walk around and admire it, and enjoy the museum and exhibitions that we found inside. There were beautiful models of old ships and depictions of the battles they fought in these waters. We thought of the old fort in Grenada, Fort George, also built in the late 1700’s, that is just decaying, seemingly forgotten on top of the hill, and compared it to this beautiful old fort, so carefully looked after and able to be appreciated by so many visitors.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZdNgl5IS2aW0Poc2i-6m6-J6B8_PW1yUB-NkF8_khyEwyoxQ4EagMiEIxxqjS00FznMezcsNz9cJX0SN43gOqMdGDBlvf1mAnrD5ZcAU0bxRU0o_bXWu65w2ikl1dfghhJLV4ZmbDxmSk/s1600/fort2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZdNgl5IS2aW0Poc2i-6m6-J6B8_PW1yUB-NkF8_khyEwyoxQ4EagMiEIxxqjS00FznMezcsNz9cJX0SN43gOqMdGDBlvf1mAnrD5ZcAU0bxRU0o_bXWu65w2ikl1dfghhJLV4ZmbDxmSk/s640/fort2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fort Napoleon</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9M4EH9f7KwwGTfT8RuXwp_Fh233agiJIM92CDHctvPIpy2zByZy8yl2uA85jgQ-JrTBF1OMRRnLAx96VBPMU46_gQk-n9pOaYnD1wxWfnlhyphenhyphenGDFLxodtQTSLc9T8hwfiKNHfKE6lDOeBG/s1600/fort+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9M4EH9f7KwwGTfT8RuXwp_Fh233agiJIM92CDHctvPIpy2zByZy8yl2uA85jgQ-JrTBF1OMRRnLAx96VBPMU46_gQk-n9pOaYnD1wxWfnlhyphenhyphenGDFLxodtQTSLc9T8hwfiKNHfKE6lDOeBG/s640/fort+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More images of Fort Napoleon</td></tr>
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On our walk back down the hill and through the town, we admired the typical Saintes architecture, with the houses having the gingerbread lattice work trim and distinct shutters on the windows.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhTgT6WlO6C3JhDcf2Js5Y1kJZkuFWvp60Y3r8HOG8B2RUlVJQ1efKth_LxJwqqKeGutvMs7k7t8gtKj_EyeS5yyuqnwMzhXJZW1NL37R0IoqLiTTL4VJd_naa67htHJEPgc10if4GzWWP/s1600/Saints+architecture.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhTgT6WlO6C3JhDcf2Js5Y1kJZkuFWvp60Y3r8HOG8B2RUlVJQ1efKth_LxJwqqKeGutvMs7k7t8gtKj_EyeS5yyuqnwMzhXJZW1NL37R0IoqLiTTL4VJd_naa67htHJEPgc10if4GzWWP/s640/Saints+architecture.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saintes architecture</td></tr>
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We also saw “Shuti” arrive, and called to them from halfway up the hill, but they did not hear us! Instead, after we had bought our baguettes for lunch, we quickly stopped by on the dinghy and said “bonjour”! After lunch, the Shuti boys, Yoav, Eyal and Dror came to play, a bittersweet playdate, as this was to be the last. We knew were leaving the next day, and Shuti’s agenda, is keeping them in the Guadeloupe area a little longer as they drop off their friend and pick up Momi's father over the next couple of days. By the time they make it up to Antigua and the British Virgin Islands, we will already be in the Bahamas, so we will likely not see them again (in the near future). We will, undoubtedly see them again sometime, as this is a special friendship, formed over thousands of miles of ocean, with shared experiences that forged a unique and special bond. We shared a lovely evening with them aboard Shuti, with a bottle of Caribbean rum punch helping us to say farewell, but not goodbye!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAYtAvcKGKTlY386f_3-Sa2mSjWH4GeFhyphenhyphenxdynBKEeaEzL6qPGe4Ncq10KBKWXAdQJ5wzQTV3iQ_Enmd8Te6E3sa148zTpjieXdgExygG9D3-6WXvFdix5LY377F05F2AW_OABCrlDt98e/s1600/shuti.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAYtAvcKGKTlY386f_3-Sa2mSjWH4GeFhyphenhyphenxdynBKEeaEzL6qPGe4Ncq10KBKWXAdQJ5wzQTV3iQ_Enmd8Te6E3sa148zTpjieXdgExygG9D3-6WXvFdix5LY377F05F2AW_OABCrlDt98e/s640/shuti.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top: The kids have a last playdate: Gaby teaches them a card trick! And a last shot that evening after drinks</td></tr>
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And so, with two sad farewells behind us, we keep heading north, in our effort to catch up with our other special friends on “Moby”, so we can see them one more time before they head across the Atlantic back to France, and as all our adventures slowly start coming to an end. We sailed from the Saintes on Monday, April 9th to the top of Guadeloupe and anchored in Deshaies, where we checked out with the Gendamerie. We love the French islands: paperwork is kept to a minimum (you enter your own information into a computer and it prints a one page clearance document), and it is free. Services are great and people are friendly. What more could you ask for?! Next stop: Antigua!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGv-i_TXtesGwl4mb8ePkpb65arybFO2VnFFZmaUSjE5N_FsteZ85pVvypcLPKbxGbAxhFdgUlh3UHtIfWJgrdVABOqJc2OIQv4h65mlehfoi1JCqR6liMm-O_XaBsDRL-8RIQ113ziblj/s1600/DSC_0963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGv-i_TXtesGwl4mb8ePkpb65arybFO2VnFFZmaUSjE5N_FsteZ85pVvypcLPKbxGbAxhFdgUlh3UHtIfWJgrdVABOqJc2OIQv4h65mlehfoi1JCqR6liMm-O_XaBsDRL-8RIQ113ziblj/s640/DSC_0963.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby blows the conch as the sun sets at our anchorage in Deshais, Martinique</td></tr>
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PS: Since these are posted in quick succession, if you have not seen the post on St. Vincent and the Grenadines, click on "Older Posts" below!</div>
Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-80386246931981106262018-04-09T16:20:00.000-04:002018-04-09T16:20:42.725-04:00Sailing in St. Vincent and the GrenadinesPreviously on svcoolrunnings.blogspot.com: We had checked out of Grenada, getting ready to head to our next island destination, but before checking into St. Vincent and the Grenadines, we spent a night anchored off the small island of Petite St. Vincent, just a few miles from Union Island, where we needed to check in. However, all that is on the island is a private resort, and it seems acceptable that you can stop here without checking in, because if you check in first, you’d have to back-track to Petite St. Vincent, which no-one really wants to do! We were joined here by “Shuti” the following morning. Our reunion was not long, because we headed off to Union to officially check in, and “Shuti” stayed another 2 nights. We knew we would catch up with them in the Tobago Cays, so we waved “so long” and motored the 4 miles over to Union Island. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiKHJNbbMmXg3WQkiWkXDEYJMZmFdvgc8Bm7ULmS409UvOF7DtqkGhYXkoIOpvzceRaRKDXGfzvJ4g6tgMnZVEIlnFLfjy_tLMuaSszf-u4pWziEhKEkSi0GwCuq6ZoZAINwyF6gUVysw_/s1600/04-DSC_0512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiKHJNbbMmXg3WQkiWkXDEYJMZmFdvgc8Bm7ULmS409UvOF7DtqkGhYXkoIOpvzceRaRKDXGfzvJ4g6tgMnZVEIlnFLfjy_tLMuaSszf-u4pWziEhKEkSi0GwCuq6ZoZAINwyF6gUVysw_/s640/04-DSC_0512.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Union Island is easily recognisable with its distinctive peak called "The Pinnacle" (far right)</td></tr>
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Clifton, the capital of Union Island, was pretty, but the harbor was a nightmare to anchor in. Mooring buoys have been placed in all the best anchoring spots, and the price to use them is steep: 60 EC Dollars (Eastern Caribbean Dollars, a fixed rate of 2.67 to the US dollar). After our previous experience with mooring buoys, we wanted to steer clear of any mooring buoys, but there was precious little space left in which to drop an anchor! We have encountered the mooring buoys all over now, and the disappointment with them is that they have been placed purely as a money making racket. The only legitimate use for mooring buoys (in our opinion) are if it is too deep to anchor, or if there is coral that needs to be protected from anchors, in which case we are always happy to pay for a mooring. Here, the water is clear and about 5 – 10 feet deep in sand…perfect anchoring, and there is no need for mooring buoys. Their holding is also questionable, as you don’t know who is maintaining them, and to leave our expensive home tied to a ball without knowing what’s underneath is too much of a risk to say the least!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQVzVnwQeEYtjPGiomzK3EGfwy_yFCNfn3KKJbiJfnZwzEGr-FhPXxVTecDndGG04BNCrQlSx3N-mAqjtmQ8L2iNyLlABEJoNr2wf247GjJ1osADm-HRiCo3d776GasJsogYuJ-dWcyLC/s1600/02-IMG20180317080350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQVzVnwQeEYtjPGiomzK3EGfwy_yFCNfn3KKJbiJfnZwzEGr-FhPXxVTecDndGG04BNCrQlSx3N-mAqjtmQ8L2iNyLlABEJoNr2wf247GjJ1osADm-HRiCo3d776GasJsogYuJ-dWcyLC/s640/02-IMG20180317080350.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Clifton fruit and vegetable market has the typical Caribbean style colored stalls. </td></tr>
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We spent the shortest amount of time possible in Clifton, checked into SVG (St. Vincent and the Grenadines), and then headed over to Palm Island, where we spent a rather rolly night at anchor. The following day, we moved to Frigate Bay, where we spent a few days, waiting for Granny’s plane to arrive. It was a lovely anchorage, protected and calm, and we spent our days watching kite surfers whizz up and down! The kids did lots of school, so they could take some time off while our guests were with us. Soon it was time to head back to Clifton, so we could walk to the airport and collect Rosemary and Kayla from the airport. We stood on the side of the runway and waited for their small propeller plane to land. We were so awed by the small runway and how quickly the plane touched down and turned around, we forgot to video their dramatic arrival!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMQCS3o5WvAQIVndu41j-dhhqbWpZ1OpahpLUatOnCZzaLGvW0y-ve4qU90OnObisMPtvJ-BFGNmW3xPJyGiTkMC_rtMDFneNyd8HyRQjYaKFLEM1P6SQFSD7JNHqrY1dBsZu9Q2rxeVHc/s1600/03-IMG20180316174204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMQCS3o5WvAQIVndu41j-dhhqbWpZ1OpahpLUatOnCZzaLGvW0y-ve4qU90OnObisMPtvJ-BFGNmW3xPJyGiTkMC_rtMDFneNyd8HyRQjYaKFLEM1P6SQFSD7JNHqrY1dBsZu9Q2rxeVHc/s640/03-IMG20180316174204.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrival, Island Style! Dave and his mom, Rosemary (Granny) walk back along the airport road to the boat</td></tr>
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With our guests now safely on board, we did a short stock up of fresh fruits and veggies from the vendors at the Clifton market the following morning, and then headed north. The distances are so short, that it took us about an hour to head to the island of Mayreau, and into the popular anchorage of Salt Whistle Bay.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qKGI436k3AYIEwSeh-qAa4z3BtQfLipcjdGhTa0MTqtYD4wc9AruQarZ7ObIntH0k22_OF-fDONPZv3rW-rXMn7s34-kgbXQpi0qZzTEidZ0jkJIz7pyDMNcYTxfj7Gst3qmFZdSw0bg/s1600/05-DSC_0520.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qKGI436k3AYIEwSeh-qAa4z3BtQfLipcjdGhTa0MTqtYD4wc9AruQarZ7ObIntH0k22_OF-fDONPZv3rW-rXMn7s34-kgbXQpi0qZzTEidZ0jkJIz7pyDMNcYTxfj7Gst3qmFZdSw0bg/s640/05-DSC_0520.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our niece, Ben and Gaby's cousin, Kayla, on the paddle board in Salt Whistle Bay</td></tr>
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It is a beautiful bay, but very crowded with charter boats. We were extremely lucky in that, when we arrived, 2 big boats were just leaving, which opened up a coveted spot in the corner of the bay. We got a good hold on the anchor and settled in for a few days. We amused ourselves by watching the anchorage filling up with more and more boats. Just when we thought they couldn’t possibly pack in another boat, another one came and found a spot. Here too, in crystal clear water with good holding, they had laid mooring buoys, which you could have the pleasure of using for 60EC a night!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUiJb_CE8HyzintzeOz-bPuLoSliHW9s7pRhconBiHwnHnawrjAhvv80_L87C4f6KDWqJ2NIPMhQzqu62ibyXcyJ5C4UusTxxjTXgJKcDdE3cU3xb1PRiXBdGdYYB1GQ4UYWH9N2IljW3B/s1600/07-DSC_0549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUiJb_CE8HyzintzeOz-bPuLoSliHW9s7pRhconBiHwnHnawrjAhvv80_L87C4f6KDWqJ2NIPMhQzqu62ibyXcyJ5C4UusTxxjTXgJKcDdE3cU3xb1PRiXBdGdYYB1GQ4UYWH9N2IljW3B/s640/07-DSC_0549.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Packed with boats!</td></tr>
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There are a few vendors selling T-shirts and jewelry on the beach, and a few rustic beach bars and restaurants. The prices were outrageous. Where in Grenada we had paid 25EC for a full meal at the Little Dipper in Grenada, here a comparable meal was 60EC and up!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxja8091KgAaY6IsfVL67ECf86NcVxB8_WYCzJuBDCbpugh1uVIYcg3j-8vLmzDn5m2qbKJJu-qNdTcZqnANOB_fXui9LdhV4rfzvZf8eTAYbhf1nrhkzdfk8AC1fPpS3f9882lNa7JrKM/s1600/06-DSC_0548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxja8091KgAaY6IsfVL67ECf86NcVxB8_WYCzJuBDCbpugh1uVIYcg3j-8vLmzDn5m2qbKJJu-qNdTcZqnANOB_fXui9LdhV4rfzvZf8eTAYbhf1nrhkzdfk8AC1fPpS3f9882lNa7JrKM/s640/06-DSC_0548.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vendors selling T-shirts and sarongs on the beach</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJN6PHsf-GXIreKkuIPIeAE_JKjSQdCcJt65mzMxQFGqI56ZK-hD-ogV67xS_1iazM7fN9qWywqHHMWblq3D9kpMsbDauicgq2RVwuDGRVAkDBuG0ZywED5vAfZDk0Xk81hx7_8i90-4e3/s1600/08-DSC_0553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJN6PHsf-GXIreKkuIPIeAE_JKjSQdCcJt65mzMxQFGqI56ZK-hD-ogV67xS_1iazM7fN9qWywqHHMWblq3D9kpMsbDauicgq2RVwuDGRVAkDBuG0ZywED5vAfZDk0Xk81hx7_8i90-4e3/s400/08-DSC_0553.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby in her natural habitat: thrilled to be climbing palm trees again!</td></tr>
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After 2 nights in Salt Whistle Bay, we headed around the corner and over to the famous Tobago Cays. We had found our turquoise water at last!! The Tobago Cays are a group of small, deserted islands protected from the sea by a big reef called Horseshoe Reef. The water is shallow and crystal clear in the sand behind the reef, providing a good, safe anchorage, and turtles swim around eating the sea grass at the bottom. Here too, there were many boats, but the anchorage area is bigger, so it was easier to find a spot. We spotted “Shuti” and dropped anchor next to them.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWRROpewwoGBJJRG6s4GweVwKM58vX0Pken7x8WmyhjCVlKMHgkSNIyAbyK2-mDyUPHiIPB7a5vf3tBrxiOocVZoj3d7kOhDhYNOZ-TpRAtHfp1ECo9I_hiPlJRliAr5rbwwHam_sQRnPu/s1600/Tobago+Cays.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWRROpewwoGBJJRG6s4GweVwKM58vX0Pken7x8WmyhjCVlKMHgkSNIyAbyK2-mDyUPHiIPB7a5vf3tBrxiOocVZoj3d7kOhDhYNOZ-TpRAtHfp1ECo9I_hiPlJRliAr5rbwwHam_sQRnPu/s640/Tobago+Cays.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stunning Tobago Cays</td></tr>
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We spent a week here, swimming, snorkeling and meeting Shuti for sundowners on the small beaches in the late afternoon/evening. It was a lovely playground for the kids, and for us, it felt like a holiday, not having to move, not having to check the weather and just enjoying “chilling out” for a while! We were lucky enough to snorkel with turtles a couple of times during our stay there!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLEH-RDQiv6DrTZXMxk4oEqtah6dxP7XFkDySET6WV4W045cLCTOlzx_PPPeX4aOb30WJcH07kvmIAHJfdvYZ5XQP0rjv_mIIqXvWExzfgTEPz2j0nJ4KZXYdBq4kZkOu2_Xkkx_aKeFu1/s1600/11-GOPR7094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLEH-RDQiv6DrTZXMxk4oEqtah6dxP7XFkDySET6WV4W045cLCTOlzx_PPPeX4aOb30WJcH07kvmIAHJfdvYZ5XQP0rjv_mIIqXvWExzfgTEPz2j0nJ4KZXYdBq4kZkOu2_Xkkx_aKeFu1/s640/11-GOPR7094.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my favorite shots: Gaby checking out this friendly fellow!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying Turtle Time!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxJhRT4CZGXAeC83jQAXAV6b8mK_lr754gFTbaHXglflLh7RjO90AeUea4xKLk2KXFeK4dJ9Earm-3l5iQ3v8VvbQv4a2DB5jQhjdswsnaQlX780FzbzW2y0HZZo8Gp8iOyUToBxaSL61c/s1600/10a-DSC_0569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxJhRT4CZGXAeC83jQAXAV6b8mK_lr754gFTbaHXglflLh7RjO90AeUea4xKLk2KXFeK4dJ9Earm-3l5iQ3v8VvbQv4a2DB5jQhjdswsnaQlX780FzbzW2y0HZZo8Gp8iOyUToBxaSL61c/s640/10a-DSC_0569.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And, because you can't swim with turtles all day, every day... Yoav from Shuti, joins Kayla, Gaby, Granny and Ben for a game of Risk!</td></tr>
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One of the days we took Cool Runnings over to an island called “Petite Tabac”, on the outside of the big Horseshoe Reef. We enjoyed a day there, exploring the little island and snorkeling on the reef, but after lunch, we pulled up anchor and came back to the main anchorage for the night. We decided that it would not be safe to stay there, as the small island is surrounded by reef, and if anything were to go wrong, we’d be on the reef within seconds.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petite Tabac</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFm3you8YnLEiKCNPpk2oVj4aRD90t5GXBxzGHCgIEVr2ahqescu4IyZo1ss0-GhGGE9LhcjeWoZi-8zJtyaJJ3adodflF34v__-NkEcx2XxeOOeGVRjpX41cLPZRiji6ZKKr35v3TvrdP/s1600/Petite+Tabac.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFm3you8YnLEiKCNPpk2oVj4aRD90t5GXBxzGHCgIEVr2ahqescu4IyZo1ss0-GhGGE9LhcjeWoZi-8zJtyaJJ3adodflF34v__-NkEcx2XxeOOeGVRjpX41cLPZRiji6ZKKr35v3TvrdP/s640/Petite+Tabac.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fun times at Petite Tabac</td></tr>
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Shuti left to go back to Union Island to pick up guests of their own, and we spent one more night in the Tobago Cays without them. We moved to a different part of the reef, just for a change of scenery. Dave and I went for a long swim and snorkeled on the outside of the reef, where it drops away dramatically into the depths of the ocean. It was very pretty, but after we spotted a shark checking us out, and with the tide starting to go out as well, I decided it was time to go back into the safety of the inside of the reef!!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snorkeling on the reef</td></tr>
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Early on Sunday morning, Dave called me up onto the helm station and said, “I think there’s a cat (catamaran) on the reef”! We looked over to Petite Tabac, where we had been only two days before, and saw a boat at a very odd angle to the wind. A monohull was also anchored there, and they were facing into the wind, confirming our suspicion that the cat was on the reef. After looking through the binoculars, Dave said, “we should go and see if we can help them. If it was me, I would want someone to come and help us”. We got our spare anchor with 300ft of rode (rope), extra mooring lines, mask and fins, and topped up the dinghy gas/petrol tank. We decided that Ben and Gaby would go with Dave, and I would stay on Cool Runnings to monitor the radio. About 2 ½ hours later, Dave and the kids returned, having successfully helped get the boat off the reef! Dave said the damage was relatively minor, and most of it was on the keels. The boat was a new Lagoon 420, and luckily Lagoons are built to take the weight of the boat on their keels. Luckily Dave not only knew the boat and Lagoons, but he also knew our dinghy would be powerful enough to be able to push and pull if needed, as we have used it before as a “tug boat” on Cool Runnings in strong wind. In addition having been there a few days prior, Dave knew where the holding was good to put our spare anchor, and help winch the boat off the reef. The folks on the Lagoon were of course very grateful for his and the kids help, and called us later on VHF to say they had safely made it to Union island and to again say thanks!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Lagoon 420 on the reef, just after the grounding</td></tr>
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After this exciting morning, we still decided to leave as planned, and headed out in the afternoon towards the island of Canouan, which was just an overnight stop before heading to Mustique the following day. In a very short time, the scenery changed from shallow turquoise water and white sand, to deep bays and mountains. The sail the next day to Mustique was a little rough, as we had to point more to windward than we would like, and we had about 13 miles of “open water”, that is, the passage between the islands, where you don’t have the protection of the island to shield you. But it didn’t last too long, and soon we were in Britannia Bay, tied to a mooring buoy.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boats on moorings in Britannia Bay, Mustique. Cool Runnings is 3rd from left at the back</td></tr>
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Mustique is a private island and use of mooring buoys is mandatory. However, the buoys looked very strong and well-maintained, so we didn’t mind paying the somewhat high fee for their use. (The cost is 200EC (about $75) for 3 nights). Mustique is very pretty, and largely undeveloped. The water around Mustique is a conservation area, and we also found that on land, they were very environmentally conscious, which was a wonderful surprise. They desalinate water and much of the power comes from solar power, pretty much the same as Cool Runnings!! The tiny little town is pretty, and the island has about 90 homes on it, many of them owned by the rich and famous. In fact, when we went for a walk, we tried to get to the library (we’d read the internet was good!!), but we were prevented from going there, as the road was blocked off “for about 2 weeks” we were told, so we figured someone famous was on the island, and didn’t want to be disturbed!! (A few days later, we actually saw Mick Jagger on neighboring Bequia, and we were told he often came to Bequia, as he had a house “next door” on Mustique).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6merB_EXvFQcmXXsPuqnOa7S1SyhWz1I8pJOjIm62rjcSF3uepjvR64bAwouAzrUjd9JiDiO-5cxH92cLKOBV7xfYjO7cH91QT_5dIRyvY86urCiPrwMtdZvlmNywFAEd727s42YQfNj9/s1600/Mustique+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6merB_EXvFQcmXXsPuqnOa7S1SyhWz1I8pJOjIm62rjcSF3uepjvR64bAwouAzrUjd9JiDiO-5cxH92cLKOBV7xfYjO7cH91QT_5dIRyvY86urCiPrwMtdZvlmNywFAEd727s42YQfNj9/s640/Mustique+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful, colorful Mustique: Bougainvilla in all colors, tortoises roaming around freely, Stanley's vegetable stand where we stocked up on tomatoes and cucumber, and Granny, Kayla, Gaby, Ben and Dave enjoying an ice cream!</td></tr>
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We spent 3 days in Mustique, making full use of our payment for the mooring buoys (it’s 200EC, whether you stay for one night, two or three). On one day, there was a little craft market, with artists coming from St. Vincent to display their goods. Like everything else on the island, it was all too expensive for yachties such as us, but it was nice to just walk around and look. In fact, we bought our most expensive sausages in our lives in Mustique…12 Johnsonville Brats and 1 can of creamed sweetcorn cost us 80EC, about $36!!!<br />
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When it was time to head on, we sailed over to Bequia, a very pleasant sail, stopping at a small island called Petite Nevis for the day, before heading over to Friendship Bay, on the southeast coast of Bequia for the night. On Friday, 30th March, we took a slow sail along the coast to the other side to Bequia, to the main anchorage of Admiralty Bay, and the town of Port Elizabeth. It was very crowded in Admiralty Bay, and quite rolly, with large swells rolling into the bay. On a catamaran, we were somewhat more stable than monohulls, who were rocking quite badly from side to side! There were major parties happening on shore, and every night we had to go to sleep with the extremely loud reggae music rocking us to sleep! We also walked around the small town (where we saw Mick Jagger!), and on Easter Sunday, we went ashore and Granny treated us to lunch at the Gingerbread Hotel, where we sat under a tree, next to the water and enjoyed our Easter Lunch! (toasted sandwiches for Granny and Gaby, Rotis for Dave, Ben and myself and a burger and fries for Kayla).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby made our Easter decorations. The bunny even managed to hide a few eggs and the kids found them on Easter morning! On the dock outside the Gingerbread after our lunch</td></tr>
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Before we knew it, it was time for Granny and Kayla to head back home. Early on Monday morning, April 2nd, Dave, Ben and Gaby took them to shore and they waited at the Gingerbread hotel for a taxi to take them to the airport, where they would hop on another small propeller plane that would take them to Barbados, and then American Airlines would take them back to Miami and ultimately Tampa. Two weeks had flown by in a blur, but this time, when we said goodbye, we were able to say “see you soon!” We have about 10 weeks left before we will be back home, and just like Granny and Kayla’s 2 weeks flew by, our 2 years have flown by equally fast!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset in Bequia</td></tr>
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<br />Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-34021037629119686522018-04-05T15:16:00.000-04:002018-04-05T15:16:58.491-04:00Exploring GrenadaSurprisingly enough, we continue to find it difficult to find enough internet access to get our blog posts updated and uploaded! We are currently in Martinique, where we made a stop to get some spare parts that David Farrington of Lagoon so kindly sourced for us and sent to the local Lagoon dealership for us to pick up. Thank you again, David, for all your help along the way! Our rough plan is to leave here tomorrow, sail to Guadelope, with possibly a short stop in Dominica, and from there, make our way to the BVIs, via Antigua, and then on to the Turks and Cacios and ultimately on to the Bahamas to hopefully meet up with our friends on "Moby" before they make their final crossing over the Atlantic back to France. With that being said, let's step back a few weeks in time, with our arrival in Grenada:<br />
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Situated within large Clarke’s Court Bay, Grenada, is a very small marina called Whisper Cove. We typically try not to stay in marinas, especially now that our savings are dwindling, but as we approached Grenada, we hailed a few of the marinas on the radio, and Whisper Cove was the only one that responded. We knew that we had to fill up with diesel and re-provision, and that is always so much easier when attached to a dock, as opposed to having to dinghy heavy jerry cans of fuel to and from the shore to the boat, and likewise with precious bags of food!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A roadside establishment in Grenada with some good messages: "Thoughts become tings, Choose the good ones"</td></tr>
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So we made the decision to stay at Whisper Cove Marina for a few nights, to get ourselves reintegrated into society! Now, one might not think that Grenada is a buzzing metropolis, and it is not, but we had not seen so many boats and people congregated in one place since, well, probably since leaving Key West, Florida! The horizon was just a jungle of masts, and we were glad to be able to tie up at Whisper Cove, and not have to fight for a tiny spot of real estate, where we could safely drop our anchor! Whisper Cove is really just one dock, with space for maybe 10 boats, but it was perfect for what we needed, and it had free WiFi! (with payment of dockage fee, of course!). But it was cute, and beautifully landscaped, and had clean ablution facilities, in fact, their showers were pretty awesome: the water was cold, but you really didn’t need warm water in the hot, humid temperatures. The showers were large, wooden buildings, surrounded by foliage, with the slats missing at eye level, so it felt like you were showering outside! We typically shower on the boat, even when we are in marinas, because on the whole, our own showers are usually nicer than any marina showers, and it is so much more convenient, but these showers were just so great, we all took the opportunity to enjoy them as much as we could!! (can you tell…it’s the small things in life, like a good shower, that we, as cruisers, have come to appreciate?!).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whisper Cove Marina - the brown, wooden structure at the end of the dock are the showers!</td></tr>
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First order of business was, of course, to check in to Grenada. There is a Customs and Immigration office around the corner from Whisper Cove, at “True Blue” and Dave was able to take the dinghy over there to check in. Once again, although he arrived during office hours, Immigration was not there, and the customs officer held on to our passports, telling us to return on Monday at 11:00am to collect them! This was getting old… But having no option, he left them there, and we carried on with getting ourselves organized. Dave spoke to the marina manager, and was able to arrange car hire for 2 days, which would allow us to get to the supermarket and petrol/gas station and also to explore the island of Grenada. We set off on Sunday morning, and headed to St. George, the capital. On the way, we scoped out the gas station, and found a lovely, big IGA Supermarket, where we would later do all our provisioning. We went inside to have a look, and the look on the kids’ faces was precious! Every few seconds, they would stop and gasp, their mouths hanging open, or jump up and down in excitement, upon seeing a familiar food!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First sight of Oreos in 2 years!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old buildings in the historic waterfront part of St. George called The Carenage</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSoMk8FvNMsdSF_qrisCneOpyrmcJS9csyTeP_L6ZLyNY4y5k8RZUeYynpZxwyFmoZt03t1ESPZ4Z6yw_S1yzRjEvqMe-BZwlfwr4gH-1OaEiyDeq5KEVpr1ehreKBhSPzBD6qPPCeyOvj/s1600/DSC_0451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSoMk8FvNMsdSF_qrisCneOpyrmcJS9csyTeP_L6ZLyNY4y5k8RZUeYynpZxwyFmoZt03t1ESPZ4Z6yw_S1yzRjEvqMe-BZwlfwr4gH-1OaEiyDeq5KEVpr1ehreKBhSPzBD6qPPCeyOvj/s640/DSC_0451.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fort George, the 18th century fort situated on the hilltop above the town of St. George </td></tr>
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We spent the day exploring, and while we enjoyed driving around the island, we found that it wasn’t all that different from Tobago. It had the same, small, windy roads, leading from village to village, the beautiful, rainforest inland, and rugged coastline. We stopped for lunch at the north end of Grenada, at a small hotel called Petite Anse hotel, near the town of Sauteurs, and then made our way back along the east coast, briefly stopping at one of the famous plantations, Belmont Estate, that has turned into a tourist attraction.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqGMJEuBv49Cx7s0tIQVHi9keAOEwCSz5A9O3FkKAm3xSTiQRtmb2H1Jop87dWXYMHhnVFwVGZtMkOe72uTN8nteE4z96Pbf8CIhTrCtmX2X2JCtkfWBSwvGG9e7SfyABWaJDnvAUdUoX/s1600/IMG20180304135207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqGMJEuBv49Cx7s0tIQVHi9keAOEwCSz5A9O3FkKAm3xSTiQRtmb2H1Jop87dWXYMHhnVFwVGZtMkOe72uTN8nteE4z96Pbf8CIhTrCtmX2X2JCtkfWBSwvGG9e7SfyABWaJDnvAUdUoX/s640/IMG20180304135207.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from the top of Grenada across to the other islands. It was so exciting to be able to SEE the next destination with the naked eye!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRqX-LdfdkQkjbQA8ki5w_JzMdGKn7kKW1ddSF_r5sYsC6Wt4o_MkSs-sjwrIpnj60QhEqrlpfxUEHEIUWagF9xFs24DuFo9UWoCoXdMpMkrftYudvB63w1l_K44-6he-tlEr1RByRmpH/s640/DSC_0466.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old plantation road at Belmont estate. It was a little rainy at this point</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRqX-LdfdkQkjbQA8ki5w_JzMdGKn7kKW1ddSF_r5sYsC6Wt4o_MkSs-sjwrIpnj60QhEqrlpfxUEHEIUWagF9xFs24DuFo9UWoCoXdMpMkrftYudvB63w1l_K44-6he-tlEr1RByRmpH/s1600/DSC_0466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRqX-LdfdkQkjbQA8ki5w_JzMdGKn7kKW1ddSF_r5sYsC6Wt4o_MkSs-sjwrIpnj60QhEqrlpfxUEHEIUWagF9xFs24DuFo9UWoCoXdMpMkrftYudvB63w1l_K44-6he-tlEr1RByRmpH/s1600/DSC_0466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
Grenada is known as the “Spice Island” and there are numerous nutmeg processing plants on the island. We tried to stop at a less touristy one in in the village of Gouyave, and encountered the most hideous detour of our lives! We were SO close, but the road was closed and the detour took us on the scariest, narrowest, steepest roads we’ve ever encountered, and when we were spat out at the coast again, I insisted on going left, as I was sure we could get to the nutmeg facility, and Dave wanted to go right, to get away from the town. But being the good person he is, he humored me, and we ended up having to go on the detour AGAIN, so that was that for the Gouyave nutmeg processing plant!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjKXpDlole2fyWaTTZBVoX1vx7Wz6ITNJqu7dJX7x5B9mkeZEDCqeZP2_Cr-QAHV2pTNIl1mh-Id8X8LeGMN4vNsKjKss8bFJNy1utXuoxZF4pD-yZRjb5AYDGr2WF9FqwMQ5BTSfEJ4_1/s1600/DSC_0457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjKXpDlole2fyWaTTZBVoX1vx7Wz6ITNJqu7dJX7x5B9mkeZEDCqeZP2_Cr-QAHV2pTNIl1mh-Id8X8LeGMN4vNsKjKss8bFJNy1utXuoxZF4pD-yZRjb5AYDGr2WF9FqwMQ5BTSfEJ4_1/s640/DSC_0457.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This abandoned building was on an "off the beaten track" road, with paintings still for sale, but no-one to be found</td></tr>
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The reason for the road closure, which we also encountered (to a lesser degree) in other villages, was that there were general elections coming up, and this day had obviously been designated a day for rallies and party gatherings. We came to know the two parties as the “greens” and the “yellows”, as everywhere we went, the supporters donned either green or yellow T-shirts. Our road trip came to a grinding halt when we were caught up in a traffic jam of epic proportions, and it took us hours to make the last few miles home! We came to dislike the “Greens”, as they were the cause of the traffic jam. The “Yellows” seemed more organized, and we saw them gathered at fields on the side of the road, and they drove along in an orderly fashion. The “Greens” seemed to use the road as their rally points, and drove, in truck and car loads at a snail’s pace, cheering and waving, but not giving the opportunity for anyone to overtake (a difficult task on a good day, as the roads are pretty narrow as it is!). Poor Dave had to negotiate this mayhem on the roads, and we returned to the boat eventually, completely exhausted (and with no energy left to do our shopping, which we had planned to do, but did not dare to go out onto the roads again)!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuj093ENrTQBfx-eqFdE35-e2EwkMJ9mffGb_YXTfAUbs2pf0rdpXt3gOsmiZty5RFH4ubE2cDFCBJEA-GLpGjenyGrYIC7Ej_Kyj1lLcSL2YDzuhLxLaUdQIOtbVqdYgSFxJHw3rwkqQD/s1600/DSC_0462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuj093ENrTQBfx-eqFdE35-e2EwkMJ9mffGb_YXTfAUbs2pf0rdpXt3gOsmiZty5RFH4ubE2cDFCBJEA-GLpGjenyGrYIC7Ej_Kyj1lLcSL2YDzuhLxLaUdQIOtbVqdYgSFxJHw3rwkqQD/s640/DSC_0462.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A cool little place: the "Epic Bar and Lounge"...we did not go in, but it looked cool!</td></tr>
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On Monday morning, we heard on the cruiser’s net (a virtual meeting, of sorts, where a designated channel on the VHF radio is allocated at a certain time each morning, and you can tune in and listen to what’s going in the cruising world in Grenada), that a cruise ship was in port. This was not good news for us, as we had planned to head to one of the waterfalls, and I had read that if a cruise ship is in town, the waterfall becomes overrun with tourists, vendors set up stalls, and it is generally very crowded. Not our scene at all! So we quickly gathered the troops, and our stuff, and made our way to Annandale Waterfall, and arrived in the nick of time! When we got there, we had the place all to ourselves. Not another car, tour bus or person in sight! We enjoyed swimming in the cool pool and standing under the waterfall, letting our shoulders be massaged by the force of the falling water. As we got out, we saw the first people arrive, and by the time we got back to the car, it was mayhem! We barely managed to get out, and made a quick get-away, away from the madding crowd!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisdT5PIA_kwIVS8WiTosrm5OiDBWA9y59VbcgxwysuIiydHUfsrRCBleNNDhSiLlro6S22F57HqftMihNF4xRLLwWQBWwFGs6BwNDdg_3hgwgWeGvG0sEgXRTjDxCE61WbMoAr_Qz_Rdh4/s1600/G0026946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisdT5PIA_kwIVS8WiTosrm5OiDBWA9y59VbcgxwysuIiydHUfsrRCBleNNDhSiLlro6S22F57HqftMihNF4xRLLwWQBWwFGs6BwNDdg_3hgwgWeGvG0sEgXRTjDxCE61WbMoAr_Qz_Rdh4/s640/G0026946.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking a dip in the cool pool at Annandale Falls</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekNgFiGMYiYXXEPWiV6jysuH-HwSXKgQsG_HR9IWghf2lbFPe0i99WviSs0EgcSGYKuY0LwUnLLOw2xahZrRItaD0YEY2mz-ZmtRXdlNRNK-qB20w12zpYYSMY-oexE0E5mOPDZtyu-Xi/s1600/GOPR6980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekNgFiGMYiYXXEPWiV6jysuH-HwSXKgQsG_HR9IWghf2lbFPe0i99WviSs0EgcSGYKuY0LwUnLLOw2xahZrRItaD0YEY2mz-ZmtRXdlNRNK-qB20w12zpYYSMY-oexE0E5mOPDZtyu-Xi/s640/GOPR6980.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Selfie under the waterfall!</td></tr>
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We took one more drive to Etang Lake, a lake in the crater of an extinct volcano, but were once again disappointed when we arrived, to find tons of people there, and you had to pay an entrance fee to go and see the lake. Having come from places where we have just been able to enjoy nature in its most pure form, we were having a hard time with the commercialization of everything, and we decided to turn around. The drive in itself was pretty, so it wasn’t a complete waste of time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG7OIkFJOpDZDMU4yvYGHY5yR3pahgR7C0JrbABGxyK1TxxRz-KQq56xZwe7ABez-A42woiU6pBfzJEIQo9xOxpqlcQVvd8Qpky3BqEcBsREa-d7gjVKXZz_yXRuAsdPcl7f31uWouAI0K/s1600/DSC_0464.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG7OIkFJOpDZDMU4yvYGHY5yR3pahgR7C0JrbABGxyK1TxxRz-KQq56xZwe7ABez-A42woiU6pBfzJEIQo9xOxpqlcQVvd8Qpky3BqEcBsREa-d7gjVKXZz_yXRuAsdPcl7f31uWouAI0K/s640/DSC_0464.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road to and from Etang Lake was very green!</td></tr>
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After a quick stop to pick up our passports, we had lunch at a place called “The Little Dipper”. We had read about it in the cruising guide, and we were not disappointed. We were the only guests at this tiny place, and the food was delicious. We had “lambi”, which is conch, fresh veggies and rice, all freshly made.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilwySJdsOV_z34TWIWa2B-rEwugQh04Pp4J21W_Gdkxacm6iC2lyvVHquKdDe9OVBtbHzEF0HlBp_lqMIV6H7GN707k5LFQQkh8OXa7rDPaEwel1AevZTfTUK-bs8rZxtLVQ01fHNbX4f8/s1600/IMG20180305124241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilwySJdsOV_z34TWIWa2B-rEwugQh04Pp4J21W_Gdkxacm6iC2lyvVHquKdDe9OVBtbHzEF0HlBp_lqMIV6H7GN707k5LFQQkh8OXa7rDPaEwel1AevZTfTUK-bs8rZxtLVQ01fHNbX4f8/s640/IMG20180305124241.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little Dipper gets a thumbs up from Cool Runnings!</td></tr>
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After lunch, we dropped the kids off at the boat, and went to do our chores. We headed to the supermarket and started filling up our shopping cart. We were surprised at how much food we bought, having been convinced that I had bought enough in South Africa to last us all the way home! When we exited the supermarket, it was pouring with rain, and I mean absolutely pouring, and it didn’t show signs of stopping anytime soon! After getting thoroughly soaked after loading our groceries in the car, we headed to the gas station to fill up our 9 jerry cans with diesel. The roads were starting to flood and the water ran in rivers down the sidewalks. We navigated to the gas station and were able to fill our jerry cans with diesel. We started our drive back to the marina, which, on a normal day, would have taken us 10 minutes at the most. We expected a slow drive back, but we were once again crawling along at a snail’s pace, at times not moving at all. Within a stone’s throw of the turnoff to the marina, we started noticing cars doing U-turns. We recognized a guy from the marina who drove past us, so we quickly asked him what was happening. Turns out the road was completely flooded and no-one could get through!! We had to turn around and drive all the way back to St. George, and then back to the marina along another road. What should have taken 10 minutes, ended up taking more than 2 hours! Poor Benjamin and Gaby thought we had abandoned them, as we didn’t have any way of communicating our predicament to them. They, in turn, had troubles of their own. The rain was so strong that it started flooding our dinghy, and they had to bail out water in the pouring rain, in order to stop it from sinking!!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1GFn4Q3Mub3kt1-e-vJ1wLqF7KwHx5ebHvSBmeebWu_UvxzuEWiN21GbdlFuY4cva1kjH5X0Bq3VEp4gVxB-SK3kPPtQz4L-dZte10ztnoBeoFDdEGXC55q3ZDziVFSaNmsghy_fCE8Dw/s1600/DSC_0443.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1GFn4Q3Mub3kt1-e-vJ1wLqF7KwHx5ebHvSBmeebWu_UvxzuEWiN21GbdlFuY4cva1kjH5X0Bq3VEp4gVxB-SK3kPPtQz4L-dZte10ztnoBeoFDdEGXC55q3ZDziVFSaNmsghy_fCE8Dw/s640/DSC_0443.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of St. George and St. George's Bay from Quarantine Point </td></tr>
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We were glad to give the car back at the end of the 2 days, as our experience on Grenadian roads had not been a pleasant one! Looks like we were more comfortable on the water! We left Whisper Cove, but spent a few more days in Grenada at anchor, one day we went to the underwater sculpture park, which was a little disappointing, but interesting nonetheless. There are numerous sculptures placed underwater, and you can snorkel or dive to see them. We snorkeled, but they were quite deep and quite difficult to find. The visibility was also not very good that day, so that added to the disappointment. However, we came back to anchor outside the harbor in St. George, next to our friends on “Shuti”! We had last seen them in St. Helena, where we had gone our separate ways: they went to Brazil, and then from there on to Tobago and now Grenada, and we had gone to Ascension, Tobago and now Grenada. We celebrated that evening with them, as they had now “crossed their wake”, and were therefore officially circumnavigators!!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2UPmMqFRXxFp6cJZgusmvd3wXTu1oE44j9eOBTIcukfQk8gtbmfgXmj5A41PCwyaCKQArl4cDn4avbUAOJVqC0h-Sr7CSmN0DiipOsnjisfrRK1JZZUELUCTmXDTtBOuW0TgOifzRPEgq/s1600/GOPR7020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2UPmMqFRXxFp6cJZgusmvd3wXTu1oE44j9eOBTIcukfQk8gtbmfgXmj5A41PCwyaCKQArl4cDn4avbUAOJVqC0h-Sr7CSmN0DiipOsnjisfrRK1JZZUELUCTmXDTtBOuW0TgOifzRPEgq/s640/GOPR7020.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the underwater sculptures</td></tr>
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The following morning we pulled up anchor and sailed to Carriacou, the next island along, that also belongs to Grenada. It was only 30 miles, but one of the toughest day passages we have ever done! We had to beat into the strong wind, tacking multiple times, and it took us 8 hours to get to Tyrell Bay, where we had to find a spot amongst the many, many other boats in the bay. This Caribbean experience was something we were going to have to get used to!! Still disappointed at not having found our turquoise waters, and eager to escape the crowd in Tyrell Bay, we left early the next morning and headed just around the corner to Hamilton, stopping at a small islet along the way, aptly named “Sandy Island”! As it is a marine park area, we had to pick up a mooring buoy, as anchoring was not allowed. We did so, and tried to tighten our lines. We kept reversing, testing the hold on the mooring line, and trying to get our lines to tighten up. It never happened…we kept going further and further away from the island, further and further out to sea! The mooring was completely loose, not attached to anything, or else, its hold was so poor, that it couldn’t hold our weight, and dragged the whole way! We had to abandon that mooring buoy, and went to pick up another one. Understandably, we were a little nervous, so after tying up, Dave dove down to check the mooring. This one, he said, looked good!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPz1_FYcbBof8x8F2RSXGH2Esxhek5R0Vac1tqHbV5sy8yzEZtREkR89V2bVk16iIox4qw0THzQ5WrUQyEEfnf4FjkGLKrDy44wVHD7FafflNdvxnxcvMnJCMdhxo12xPjQWk1IQxsHBp/s1600/DSC_0501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPz1_FYcbBof8x8F2RSXGH2Esxhek5R0Vac1tqHbV5sy8yzEZtREkR89V2bVk16iIox4qw0THzQ5WrUQyEEfnf4FjkGLKrDy44wVHD7FafflNdvxnxcvMnJCMdhxo12xPjQWk1IQxsHBp/s640/DSC_0501.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sandy Island: turquoise water at last!</td></tr>
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We spent a few hours swimming and snorkeling and walking along the small beach, but when the wind started picking up, I was nervous of leaving Cool Runnings on the mooring buoy, so we headed back, and went to anchor in Hamilton Bay, where the holding was so poor, that it took us about 3 tries before we felt we had a good hold on the anchor! I didn’t sleep that well that night, with the memory of the broken mooring buoy and the poor holding in the bay, coupled with the wind coming in tremendous gusts down over the mountains and into the bay.<br />
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The next morning we went to Customs and Immigration to check out of Grenada. We were on the move north, in search of our turquoise water, and with a rendezvous in Union Island, which belongs to St. Vincent and the Grenadines with Dave’s mom Rosemary and niece Kayla, who were coming to visit and would be spending 2 weeks with us in the Grenadines. <br />
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-84364898297784584732018-03-26T22:26:00.001-04:002018-03-26T22:26:33.385-04:00Tantalizing TobagoWhile it's been just over a month since we made landfall in Tobago, and we are now enjoying the warm waters and Caribbean islands of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, (we are currently moored off the private island of Mystique, home to the rich and famous!), we have had quite a difficult time finding internet access strong enough to be able to get this blog update posted! In fact, it took me an entire day to upload one photo, and then we lost connection, and I lost the upload! But I persevered, and little by little, my photos were uploaded, and I hope to now have enough bandwidth to be able to post this update on our time in Tobago! <br />
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<b><u>Tantalizing Tobago</u></b><br />
We had only planned to stay in Tobago a few days, to catch up on sleep and feel dry land under our feet again, but 3 days turned into 4, 4 to 5, and so on, and we ended up staying a week! We had decided to skip its big sister, Trinidad, as it was a little too close to Venezuela for our liking. Venezuela unfortunately has a bad reputation with cruisers with regards to safety and piracy, and we had even read about 2 boats being boarded by pirates on their way from Trinidad to Grenada. Tobago was also described as being much more sedate, largely unspoilt and undeveloped. We found this description to be pretty accurate. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_DLkKv8Zzi_Au7oNp7yHLfOnrp4t0HkKhRZbdl06tSZxlvcQMi8Xxf-Dvhlok0vAsEncUI8mNqGCSgaElN0qIP30MryqsNRJBX6cI0A3e1V79Zfnn5fH8aEYmrB8P_QKxDiB1WYRG6iuF/s1600/DSC_0325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_DLkKv8Zzi_Au7oNp7yHLfOnrp4t0HkKhRZbdl06tSZxlvcQMi8Xxf-Dvhlok0vAsEncUI8mNqGCSgaElN0qIP30MryqsNRJBX6cI0A3e1V79Zfnn5fH8aEYmrB8P_QKxDiB1WYRG6iuF/s640/DSC_0325.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting ready to raise the Trinidad and Tobago courtesy flag</td></tr>
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There are only 3 real anchorages in Tobago: Scarborough, which is the capital, but is on the windward side (the side facing the Atlantic ocean, and therefore less protected); Store Bay, on the southern point, where the most tourism is located (and thus party boats in the anchorage), but no officials for clearing in; and Charlotteville in the north, a sleepy little fishing village. That sounded more like our cup of tea, and because we were also able to clear in with customs and immigration in Charlotteville, we decided on that as our landfall.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1zAPuXHz_KYsEmaocAsIQQtHj8XQV8WEatfcocoi9ZsK15ZwvZRWnB0V6LvwZ6PG5He2d7IeOwuQr6Mh2V6YnNhyphenhyphen91v1oPLg4pGw2TR-m3Hi5-iJB7ig517OUttfqz1kwEItefo1m3yk-/s1600/map.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="328" data-original-width="632" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1zAPuXHz_KYsEmaocAsIQQtHj8XQV8WEatfcocoi9ZsK15ZwvZRWnB0V6LvwZ6PG5He2d7IeOwuQr6Mh2V6YnNhyphenhyphen91v1oPLg4pGw2TR-m3Hi5-iJB7ig517OUttfqz1kwEItefo1m3yk-/s640/map.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Map of Tobago, courtesy of Google maps, to orientate yourself with regards to places mentioned in this blog. Charlotteville, where we were anchored is right at the top of the island.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The small village of Charlotteville in Tobago</td></tr>
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The anchorage proved to be pretty, but a bit rolly, which, after 19 days at sea, didn’t bother us one bit! We were able to sleep through the night for the first time in 3 weeks! We cleared in on Friday, 23rd February, 2018, and it took us a few days to recover. Luckily, it absolutely poured with rain the next two days, which gave us not only an excuse to stay on board and do exactly that (recover!), but also gave our boat a really nice wash down, washing away all the salt that had covered every conceivable surface over the last 19 days at sea!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr200q9F0TXxeT3jDaQ-XhjFDlkjoYIJDK7Bae2BWpm21Iw2zDZAfy2DsNCZioymuR4Hk0kJHZgbA4VMuUG3cMtkDC7OFzinqhcmT0R04-wfvO8QNgPfRSiGoNqQ1a45NwulmOZkV2F4j3/s1600/DSC_0367.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr200q9F0TXxeT3jDaQ-XhjFDlkjoYIJDK7Bae2BWpm21Iw2zDZAfy2DsNCZioymuR4Hk0kJHZgbA4VMuUG3cMtkDC7OFzinqhcmT0R04-wfvO8QNgPfRSiGoNqQ1a45NwulmOZkV2F4j3/s640/DSC_0367.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby enjoying a swim and a drink off the bow while anchored in Charlotteville</td></tr>
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When the sun finally emerged a few days later, we went about the task of exploring the island. Charlotteville is really a small fishing village, with not a lot of infrastructure (but with a GREAT library, which, after joining for 25 Trinidad and Tobago dollars (TT$), about 4 US$, allowed us not only to enjoy the air conditioned building, but also borrow books and magazines, and most importantly, gave us free internet access!!). We asked around about car hire, and eventually the lady at the little “supermarket” told us to go and talk to Popeye. She gave directions, (walk over the bridge, look for the white picket fence on the right…) and he would be able to assist us. We sent Dave out the following day to search for Popeye, whom he found, and through whom he was able to secure a car for the following day!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic8tak7BUF0OQpOUD9mEcBukavuqSK-yfx3MWuxV-uAqFN2fMUAvhf7nRmByxyr9A-029Hw4Bc8kE3MJDxCM7PzsObHUEKVwQDjRIzqV6IY0buKSEe38VmTWUmBfEt4NOPKYudScJBGrFi/s1600/IMG20180223165819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic8tak7BUF0OQpOUD9mEcBukavuqSK-yfx3MWuxV-uAqFN2fMUAvhf7nRmByxyr9A-029Hw4Bc8kE3MJDxCM7PzsObHUEKVwQDjRIzqV6IY0buKSEe38VmTWUmBfEt4NOPKYudScJBGrFi/s640/IMG20180223165819.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying our first cold "Carib" beer on the day we arrived! (for the record, the kids were not drinking beer!)</td></tr>
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The day dawned overcast and rainy, and after a mad dash to the dock in the dinghy between rain storms, we discovered that Dave had left his wallet on the boat! So he and Ben had to go back, while Gaby and I went in search of Popeye. Not too much later, all was sorted out, we got our car, and off we went. Tobago is not a large island, roughly 27 miles long and 5 miles wide, (300 square kilometers or 116 square miles in area), with one main road around the perimeter, and 3 or 4 roads cutting across the interior. The island is covered in rainforest, with much of it coming right down to the water’s edge. The Main Ridge Forest Reserve, is a hilly range of rainforest which covers 60% of the island. Amazingly enough, this 14,000 acre reserve has been protected since 1776, making it the oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG-uyBtrz_E_J2XctBAEn1TSigF6KYZfybY7cM0DznkewxGDb7JgiwwReziaF5v1X82MvbRjBn2tuvtDJ4OzDwUQ727qSu-3YV92lKgpqTkgdWU3iX8UxFpvbQ6DLCyGHX0gwZ1BEFcTFs/s1600/DSC_0377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG-uyBtrz_E_J2XctBAEn1TSigF6KYZfybY7cM0DznkewxGDb7JgiwwReziaF5v1X82MvbRjBn2tuvtDJ4OzDwUQ727qSu-3YV92lKgpqTkgdWU3iX8UxFpvbQ6DLCyGHX0gwZ1BEFcTFs/s400/DSC_0377.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The thick vegetation cascading down the mountain side to the road</td></tr>
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We drove through the windy roads, through the forest, every now and then emerging in a small village, marveling at how houses have been built on the cliff edges and onto the side of hills. We made our way across to Scarborough, the capital of Tobago. Here we visited Fort King George, an 18th century fort perched on the hill overlooking Scarborough, Bacolet Bay and the windward coast. It was a perfect location to keep a lookout for the many invaders who fought over this island in the past.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtstDWC-sl-cBEbptQsFC9izKgUuh347TC8vlP-vvk74iYJ_K8me1XcA2YvcsVdZQfTqLUHVwQr8O0FTwCYC4fcPKihyNhDnButBuplZD2tLa2AyOYw1PYOc2GfyJWaMhGOAMNXaEhk11-/s1600/DSC_0381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtstDWC-sl-cBEbptQsFC9izKgUuh347TC8vlP-vvk74iYJ_K8me1XcA2YvcsVdZQfTqLUHVwQr8O0FTwCYC4fcPKihyNhDnButBuplZD2tLa2AyOYw1PYOc2GfyJWaMhGOAMNXaEhk11-/s400/DSC_0381.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Driving through one village, this tree caught our eye. It's trunk was enormous!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwadryXMH8Cutp9TyB1frhHz791taCyYnL07-70MZU1DTRurwQZlG9x43nEJVY4lD7RBrPKTGCbMS3DIEOl6STQv4Khpq95Zwpa-uG-P79TVe7McBTT03g9uyu4nVj5OJUQxudBaSPvSoF/s1600/DSC_0386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwadryXMH8Cutp9TyB1frhHz791taCyYnL07-70MZU1DTRurwQZlG9x43nEJVY4lD7RBrPKTGCbMS3DIEOl6STQv4Khpq95Zwpa-uG-P79TVe7McBTT03g9uyu4nVj5OJUQxudBaSPvSoF/s640/DSC_0386.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben, Gaby and Dave walk along the palm-lined path to Fort King Georg</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONWZrlZspALm6cxPTZ2lzjYoaxmBgOgocBswTsnXu8hl2Ye7jyghlrgyfbMtYEdgeyKSU6Td7ytN9d4CrHd3UZLxpwxRlLPiBCnAvrz-NzdKCY_UPTm1chvTn_kvpoPhaVnytNh6CnoBM/s1600/DSC_0394.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONWZrlZspALm6cxPTZ2lzjYoaxmBgOgocBswTsnXu8hl2Ye7jyghlrgyfbMtYEdgeyKSU6Td7ytN9d4CrHd3UZLxpwxRlLPiBCnAvrz-NzdKCY_UPTm1chvTn_kvpoPhaVnytNh6CnoBM/s640/DSC_0394.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This building was once one of the men's barracks </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyLngsS4VIniUvWuo0uyl4YCcr48O0M08kLzT-8rkGvxPJj5bWtl2Xe4pDQzOtTSAJRVThQLN6dQTQ4Y46yIG_J1JJ_nWpaJRu9Im9qiJ01JuQveIbvSk6xuAf-TvUx9ore_obg_jcWVGo/s1600/GOPR6930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyLngsS4VIniUvWuo0uyl4YCcr48O0M08kLzT-8rkGvxPJj5bWtl2Xe4pDQzOtTSAJRVThQLN6dQTQ4Y46yIG_J1JJ_nWpaJRu9Im9qiJ01JuQveIbvSk6xuAf-TvUx9ore_obg_jcWVGo/s640/GOPR6930.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The powder magazine, where all the gun powder was stored</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ_MLzBK1619ymZUoTHHvCZcZKoke1PsWoR-Qe6VUvKiyZfy-kfyl95iL2FE8_MKadph3pVFdNcPT_doHuO_5ICm43kf0ViqgzhKkaweiIxSUl8pXCS5lK4aEjerUZ3hFFplnam-elbg9Q/s1600/DSC_0389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ_MLzBK1619ymZUoTHHvCZcZKoke1PsWoR-Qe6VUvKiyZfy-kfyl95iL2FE8_MKadph3pVFdNcPT_doHuO_5ICm43kf0ViqgzhKkaweiIxSUl8pXCS5lK4aEjerUZ3hFFplnam-elbg9Q/s400/DSC_0389.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful old, brick walls stand the test of time</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiiUJ1pmvNWtnbKGx6wbwmc9irm18ulm0MHL5-ssaiBwcH5AqkVey8HG5nEgl73vfr8T6WGoGIRpqZj5Z5oTuxvtD_pXI5fZi5nIwqosT6WtGGfgdVE5A423fsOkafcJYvcdnyxqrB8fQA/s1600/DSC_0392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiiUJ1pmvNWtnbKGx6wbwmc9irm18ulm0MHL5-ssaiBwcH5AqkVey8HG5nEgl73vfr8T6WGoGIRpqZj5Z5oTuxvtD_pXI5fZi5nIwqosT6WtGGfgdVE5A423fsOkafcJYvcdnyxqrB8fQA/s640/DSC_0392.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The vantage point of the cannons at the top of the hill. On a clear day, you can see Trinidad. We were able to make out its silhouette, but only just!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePi8hI06o8BvmQAYd5EpwYUKSn_LAMQhTCUekt3ffMjs2XipmBiEsvg_NVdgc91243KvyhoOPyVA77j4YLCB03LNH9Np5og4AeD4-9w2_44i_-ka1R7eSQiuBjfaAS6acWB7NmO4Q2U9z/s1600/DSC_0398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePi8hI06o8BvmQAYd5EpwYUKSn_LAMQhTCUekt3ffMjs2XipmBiEsvg_NVdgc91243KvyhoOPyVA77j4YLCB03LNH9Np5og4AeD4-9w2_44i_-ka1R7eSQiuBjfaAS6acWB7NmO4Q2U9z/s640/DSC_0398.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More cannons overlooking the east coast of Tobago</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNaxQO4C-eCiZcEF1VN4rJXmhLlvTKKLxZs3PhfL0v4Pg_0-hZq6kWT0he68O-Sj9El9zjQf7jrltXVWRmNG8zm_HgAv2_L11PSJPdGou9T1J5W0bWNSH0FF-lnBAZaW6Zl-NeOFORYdnl/s1600/GOPR6929.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNaxQO4C-eCiZcEF1VN4rJXmhLlvTKKLxZs3PhfL0v4Pg_0-hZq6kWT0he68O-Sj9El9zjQf7jrltXVWRmNG8zm_HgAv2_L11PSJPdGou9T1J5W0bWNSH0FF-lnBAZaW6Zl-NeOFORYdnl/s640/GOPR6929.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More old fort walls slowly being overgrown </td></tr>
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We also went to Speyside, where you can find the world’s largest brain coral. Unfortunately, it is too deep to snorkel, and you’d have to scuba dive to see it. Throughout the day, the rain came in spurts, and every now and then, the sun came out. Our stomachs started growling, and we started looking for a place to have some lunch. We were starting to lose hope, and planning to dig into our precious supply of granola bars and apples that we had packed in case, when Dave suddenly stopped and reversed. He had spotted a little place, perched on a hill overlooking King’s Bay. The menu was written on the chalk board outside. We didn’t know exactly what it meant, but we went inside anyway, and ordered 4 portions! We were very pleasantly surprised when we were each presented with a plate overflowing with potato, mango and pumpkin, and a type of wrap, but shredded. All mixed together, it was delicious!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtmXDbTqmW2MXuhb4eslNiPupkOB3AvY7tCyxTdkEMQTTp2zmjva8zbKn2XIYKkeg55HJ3DqF5OakV6y56Xib_S_WcSD4xRZzdNxqalc5cN381KBRls3vBOeQXPwAGqnWIcJfr5F1dQrm0/s1600/DSC_0424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtmXDbTqmW2MXuhb4eslNiPupkOB3AvY7tCyxTdkEMQTTp2zmjva8zbKn2XIYKkeg55HJ3DqF5OakV6y56Xib_S_WcSD4xRZzdNxqalc5cN381KBRls3vBOeQXPwAGqnWIcJfr5F1dQrm0/s640/DSC_0424.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King's Bay Cafe: our lunch stop</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-js7m-GVGRQgXtQHSpA4rcjoJh0Oa-uIQWqTQtF9_8TeNTuZS6UJZ6jSSdqOu5gdtJlzl8x2nKWQrybuJ0OvqTzIYRFXIsnhmY2yDEpvMjrN5wlFc5sH9vdHYLjRB4yhRr8HzCBca5WP/s1600/DSC_0423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-js7m-GVGRQgXtQHSpA4rcjoJh0Oa-uIQWqTQtF9_8TeNTuZS6UJZ6jSSdqOu5gdtJlzl8x2nKWQrybuJ0OvqTzIYRFXIsnhmY2yDEpvMjrN5wlFc5sH9vdHYLjRB4yhRr8HzCBca5WP/s640/DSC_0423.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We understood "Mango, Pumpkin, Potato and Chicken". We just didn't know what "Bussup Shot" was!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDbUQDtjTgsJ-oOXlZdH1Mnl3eZKVm6xOrkwPiCvNULPZaS6ctVZWrp9VezrRncmsUwoNKzEg0SeAtPg-5N4tGOeODM7oMtXU3GbloxxjaYxMAK1mAwsvORc28yot_vOnLy20_Ypu8Uxny/s1600/DSC_0419.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDbUQDtjTgsJ-oOXlZdH1Mnl3eZKVm6xOrkwPiCvNULPZaS6ctVZWrp9VezrRncmsUwoNKzEg0SeAtPg-5N4tGOeODM7oMtXU3GbloxxjaYxMAK1mAwsvORc28yot_vOnLy20_Ypu8Uxny/s640/DSC_0419.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby with her delicious "Bussop Shot"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtQ7shPCgjg0F91KsIbm8mC7Qq2cZoJuMTEe6s54qlGO_s6TJov_Qa5sUGHMkSvt_Axaxdp5OPz5x1c28gnNlRXdnDYxIKnpDtTdyNKB7ec9_EfMObRxMOYR-B49CChvuvApkjqwFtuC28/s1600/DSC_0417.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtQ7shPCgjg0F91KsIbm8mC7Qq2cZoJuMTEe6s54qlGO_s6TJov_Qa5sUGHMkSvt_Axaxdp5OPz5x1c28gnNlRXdnDYxIKnpDtTdyNKB7ec9_EfMObRxMOYR-B49CChvuvApkjqwFtuC28/s640/DSC_0417.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once again enjoying the Carib beer! You may have noticed both Ben and Dave had haircuts (done by yours truly on one of the rainy days...and long overdue!)</td></tr>
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Our day ended back in Charlotteville, where we returned the car and headed back to the boat, after purchasing some locally baked bread for lunch the next day. We (that is, Dave), did have some work to do on the boat as our water maker had started acting up during the passage. We were still able to make water by by-passing all the safety features and running it manually, but Dave took it apart to check the sensors that gauge whether or not the filters need replacing. Once he had removed and cleaned them (not an easy task, I might add), it shut off immediately once he turned it on again, and we deduced that it probably was the sensors, and he had further damaged them when he took them out and attempted to clean them. We made a plan to order new sensors in the States, and arranged for Dave’s mom to bring them to us as she was planning to visit us in the Caribbean.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaPUQvs7JqDkoSc-FAxVY3lvb70AQ4nkyINydcnRAXYhOAd78zpENHwyBt5Xzos0eljQdI1dhyphenhyphenGh9hdxnwxC_fsKSEhh5RXRyom52dCbtGnA4kA9hz_unetsYGwf1hrv8V0uWFNu-tGlsX/s1600/DSC_0430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaPUQvs7JqDkoSc-FAxVY3lvb70AQ4nkyINydcnRAXYhOAd78zpENHwyBt5Xzos0eljQdI1dhyphenhyphenGh9hdxnwxC_fsKSEhh5RXRyom52dCbtGnA4kA9hz_unetsYGwf1hrv8V0uWFNu-tGlsX/s640/DSC_0430.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave taking the water maker apart! We are so lucky he's such a handy guy!</td></tr>
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With one last exploration on the dinghy of the surrounding areas and a swim at the little beach in the anchorage, we were ready to depart for Grenada. The distance from Tobago to Grenada is about 80 miles, and in order to arrive in daylight hours, the most sensible thing to do is sail overnight, in order to arrive there in the morning. So, our plan was to leave around 5:30 or 6:00pm. Dave took the dinghy to the town and went to check out with customs and immigration at around 3:00pm because we knew they close at 4:00pm. Customs was there, and checked us out, but the lady from immigration had decided to go home, and Dave was instructed to go to Scarborough to check out with immigration there! We were outraged!! How on earth was Dave supposed to get to Scarborough, at the complete other end of the island, without a car, with no regular taxi or bus service, and at least an hour’s drive away?! We hadn’t come late, it wasn’t our fault that the immigration employee had just decided to abandon her post and go home. And honestly, if you’re going to do that, can’t you just give your stamp to the customs guy and have him stamp anyone who happened to come while you were playing hooky?!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmP-0Rr9TRtexj1Z7bnXKiM-zk5dfY1uLp16WPH8M0Biqdoy3qocCKV6_Jz17It6hLkE4B_fWBiqsZDmGw5Ikqnps929lY5xlpYnkj2QD5pw6Upr2C6MXWvszlHt7YfX7XzC1QbaB-Z2Su/s1600/DSC_0418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmP-0Rr9TRtexj1Z7bnXKiM-zk5dfY1uLp16WPH8M0Biqdoy3qocCKV6_Jz17It6hLkE4B_fWBiqsZDmGw5Ikqnps929lY5xlpYnkj2QD5pw6Upr2C6MXWvszlHt7YfX7XzC1QbaB-Z2Su/s640/DSC_0418.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A typical Tobagan road</td></tr>
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Poor Dave communicated his (our) predicament to me via the radio. We were sorely tempted to just leave, but since we had been checked in, and had an entry stamp in our passports, we really needed to get an exit stamp, otherwise the next country might give us problems. So Dave said he would see what he could do and get back to me. He went to find Popeye, to see if he could rent a car again, but he unfortunately couldn’t help. He recommended someone he knew who would drive Dave to Scarborough for $TT400, but that was an outrageous price, and we didn’t even have that many TT$’s. Twice the guy from customs seemed to “appear” where Dave was, Dave assumes he was checking to see if we were just making a run for it, or if Dave was trying to arrange a ride to Scarborough. Eventually the customs guy took pity on Dave and said he’d give him a lift to Roxborough, a slightly larger town on the other side of the island, and a little closer to Scarborough.<br />
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At the gas station in Roxborough, they found Nixon, who was on his way to Scarborough, and agreed to give Dave a lift. Once they got there, he took him to the immigration office and we got the stamps we needed. Now Dave needed to get back. Nixon wasn’t planning on driving all the way back to Charlotteville (and back), he had reached his destination! However, Dave managed to talk him into doing just that, and they agreed that Dave would pay for the gas/petrol, and along the way, bought him 2 beers! Dave was back at the boat at around 7:00pm, 4 hours after he’d left, with a 3 hour trip to get our stamps from immigration!<br />
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While Dave had been gone, we’d gotten the boat ready for the trip over to Grenada, so by 7:30pm, we’d pulled up the anchor and turned our backs on Charlotteville. The moon rose, a big, round, bright full moon, and the wind was light. It was the perfect combination for a mellow night sail to Grenada, and 13 hours later, we sailed into Clarke’s Court Bay. We were 80 miles closer to home!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW1TYCcu-G4l9G4QHpw4oGuNygrxpYDsGxffrbN0yehCc66sfB5F5lzu5K54oUMkXqlBlOzOHjK7IdXUiZR7l_M3-bD35fuFGjxY9JrPFYyOWsX34UkMz1I1NhVvpFPOHTUyXOJObGqCN8/s1600/IMG20180227150106_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW1TYCcu-G4l9G4QHpw4oGuNygrxpYDsGxffrbN0yehCc66sfB5F5lzu5K54oUMkXqlBlOzOHjK7IdXUiZR7l_M3-bD35fuFGjxY9JrPFYyOWsX34UkMz1I1NhVvpFPOHTUyXOJObGqCN8/s640/IMG20180227150106_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby celebrates life!</td></tr>
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-56992179658223837412018-03-12T06:01:00.000-04:002018-03-12T07:38:17.543-04:00Atlantic Passage: Ascension Island to Tobago<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Our journey across the Atlantic started when we left South Africa at the beginning of January, so by the time we left Ascension, we had already covered approximately 2,400 miles of the overall 5,400 mile journey. But we had had 2 stops along the way in St. Helena and Ascension Island. So this left just over 3,000 miles from Ascension to Tobago, which would be our longest single passage to date, and also our roughest.<br />
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So what did we do at sea for 19 days? Here's a little overview:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJupwCjoSK8ZRqjeaPRB7ArgVokph4ymVGBDdpLTCsfQu9d1W1agBHZZCee1uu_PPcLLrMaP3svSFOFt68Hjo-U0XeKnOTwnpIi0qPfOvm4Pj8yXTH_u3Xu8-2j9VVRmpHD2TCBoJ7MgiZ/s1600/GOPR6837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJupwCjoSK8ZRqjeaPRB7ArgVokph4ymVGBDdpLTCsfQu9d1W1agBHZZCee1uu_PPcLLrMaP3svSFOFt68Hjo-U0XeKnOTwnpIi0qPfOvm4Pj8yXTH_u3Xu8-2j9VVRmpHD2TCBoJ7MgiZ/s640/GOPR6837.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool Runnings crew on departing Ascension Island on the morning of February 4th, 2018</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKsllnOwbuVU-SYj5VvUYqjjwP9lNWcLSqjnYWZYMiK1Q-MGLVe9fkf19nVmJnEeQkvvAAEf_T_XErf7KrFD46uSAlLjT6mm7jg2H19JEIfNrMYNYkOp07oGMGSGs2r2CdYJ5oPuqnIjE0/s1600/DSC_0190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKsllnOwbuVU-SYj5VvUYqjjwP9lNWcLSqjnYWZYMiK1Q-MGLVe9fkf19nVmJnEeQkvvAAEf_T_XErf7KrFD46uSAlLjT6mm7jg2H19JEIfNrMYNYkOp07oGMGSGs2r2CdYJ5oPuqnIjE0/s640/DSC_0190.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We encountered a couple of ships along the way. A few we had chats with, others just passed us by. This one was probably one of the closest</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiva2BSg7nJfhibE4tmGaOPOEzttWXhxIIN5kUt_4iNX3OkT4BzKfYVqYWGLXH2-PB-shXa6f6nhB_z7akIxXjSRz3uhjrQSlpox_tonN5S0iPZNanlnzzB2Fj13Sd6vEiFZs6_XSsNIkWs/s1600/DSC_0025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiva2BSg7nJfhibE4tmGaOPOEzttWXhxIIN5kUt_4iNX3OkT4BzKfYVqYWGLXH2-PB-shXa6f6nhB_z7akIxXjSRz3uhjrQSlpox_tonN5S0iPZNanlnzzB2Fj13Sd6vEiFZs6_XSsNIkWs/s640/DSC_0025.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Every morning Dave would walk around the boat and have to throw a couple of flying fish overboard. These were the unfortunate fellows who were perhaps still learning how to fly, and didn't quite make it!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigvldRKv-4Lt0qRIIrPZMSOi-yPDC__HpEpgEl7IZny9YWIPBXuCsCNmOp9J7tvvYT6gzNvH85wChLyhRokFRsTOCtXmr0PYwl4RRcFCvjD8iE-SAu1DJrJ5DaYN1OfoXiz0pPzrgGweQQ/s1600/DSC_0196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigvldRKv-4Lt0qRIIrPZMSOi-yPDC__HpEpgEl7IZny9YWIPBXuCsCNmOp9J7tvvYT6gzNvH85wChLyhRokFRsTOCtXmr0PYwl4RRcFCvjD8iE-SAu1DJrJ5DaYN1OfoXiz0pPzrgGweQQ/s640/DSC_0196.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remember the story about the flying fish that came through the hatch and wedged itself between the bed and the sail bag? This is it....UGH!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ZGIKvDJ2bMhajOh1LeeFMUQ18L9SMCInxYM3_eS-tKjZxsN_hMJHBKUWhf87IXwiZkY0BKxNfY7fc60VAlcaTo5hdjfSXTeMydY0QAsvM5A0uisRrsfJJgj_JDbxvTwAzskynsBAqE_m/s1600/DSC_0210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ZGIKvDJ2bMhajOh1LeeFMUQ18L9SMCInxYM3_eS-tKjZxsN_hMJHBKUWhf87IXwiZkY0BKxNfY7fc60VAlcaTo5hdjfSXTeMydY0QAsvM5A0uisRrsfJJgj_JDbxvTwAzskynsBAqE_m/s640/DSC_0210.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave often took photos like these to check the rig while underway. He would zoom in on certain parts to check for chafe or anything that didn't look right</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTJ8KchVimEamAjK38yNztktZvR6HALaR6hTLWMN2QVb93kZu3N25F4pwO9McDkFX1clEwd3Voe7QPTErmlbVqIg4xK4WsjFppaP4v7Urbia6m9Gy6zio2xVDYM1vTYgcDv_dqcTQBVl4g/s640/DSC_0227.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another one: Those are our wind instruments at the top of the mast, and the main sail is at one reef</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTJ8KchVimEamAjK38yNztktZvR6HALaR6hTLWMN2QVb93kZu3N25F4pwO9McDkFX1clEwd3Voe7QPTErmlbVqIg4xK4WsjFppaP4v7Urbia6m9Gy6zio2xVDYM1vTYgcDv_dqcTQBVl4g/s1600/DSC_0227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNKtMqugkK7z2IndX1UyulBYaigL3FjC6rX4b7JAJ7ufABXPHlXYvGhro6ugMNNSHxatju_Fn90GUaWV3rFmpRnFfUcYWLUBx2DNTJma3DDIAkMY9jlFPKXreUIHOTpoqp4I8OKSnB8-c5/s1600/DSC_0235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNKtMqugkK7z2IndX1UyulBYaigL3FjC6rX4b7JAJ7ufABXPHlXYvGhro6ugMNNSHxatju_Fn90GUaWV3rFmpRnFfUcYWLUBx2DNTJma3DDIAkMY9jlFPKXreUIHOTpoqp4I8OKSnB8-c5/s400/DSC_0235.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On Valentine's Day (so 10 days into the journey), Gaby decided to write a message in a bottle (except we didn't have a bottle, only an empty pasta jar!)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUTmFNyXKJHCbNZ18nFZ6nm-eZARFpi7g3VSXycgiETdo12qOdobcyXuA6YnAIc16rVEBINfK1btvWIgYc2vXYFDqx8TzTffuo-mcTmD1J69xSB1LHo85jQA6Lbmzr91jMwgUtlGubdkwN/s1600/DSC_0237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUTmFNyXKJHCbNZ18nFZ6nm-eZARFpi7g3VSXycgiETdo12qOdobcyXuA6YnAIc16rVEBINfK1btvWIgYc2vXYFDqx8TzTffuo-mcTmD1J69xSB1LHo85jQA6Lbmzr91jMwgUtlGubdkwN/s640/DSC_0237.JPG" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the letter that she wrote</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFU5QiQE3IwGgZOmFDo7e6PqDADqB2lb-XSMFMjisXDik6TUpXeCPRk0ngkueFfd2bn1IncgNl6ax7Jw4fozWJD2UkloxTGuupwH5xHJnfaDrNQvKXg4L5Eisb-2liixLav9BOoeaLm4eS/s1600/DSC_0240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFU5QiQE3IwGgZOmFDo7e6PqDADqB2lb-XSMFMjisXDik6TUpXeCPRk0ngkueFfd2bn1IncgNl6ax7Jw4fozWJD2UkloxTGuupwH5xHJnfaDrNQvKXg4L5Eisb-2liixLav9BOoeaLm4eS/s400/DSC_0240.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We wrapped it in some construction paper, tied a string on it, and added some shells</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5uz3l4n3jdxyAmdpdV5F0kjoziDoJyiu1hzxfb5DBe48YKfiCmcwpLtw179udWOIW2_KR7mCOaqUmkxHBLaMHlQcW91UT2Ahc_EBadTn6zEyccXyg7y58KvXI1DlFfcRkW0igzSg08w7T/s1600/DSC_0243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5uz3l4n3jdxyAmdpdV5F0kjoziDoJyiu1hzxfb5DBe48YKfiCmcwpLtw179udWOIW2_KR7mCOaqUmkxHBLaMHlQcW91UT2Ahc_EBadTn6zEyccXyg7y58KvXI1DlFfcRkW0igzSg08w7T/s640/DSC_0243.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then Gaby got to throw it overboard! Let's see if we ever hear where it landed up!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuBlszwpUGn3j7L4Ga28a1smfvdQWgEwBB-nkQk1d-bg7RO7BLkqw2f-fDKOo9CP0MD0gzDV8P_GLkB3qZXv_aEpPheuOnt7nkD2s4dkTNDZjcp9PMZkmTbNxyjuo67fgu-khbGjXL3MPz/s1600/DSC_0019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuBlszwpUGn3j7L4Ga28a1smfvdQWgEwBB-nkQk1d-bg7RO7BLkqw2f-fDKOo9CP0MD0gzDV8P_GLkB3qZXv_aEpPheuOnt7nkD2s4dkTNDZjcp9PMZkmTbNxyjuo67fgu-khbGjXL3MPz/s640/DSC_0019.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We enjoyed a few pretty sunrises (and sunsets)...not many...we had very few sunny days, and even on overcast days, it just got gradually lighter, we seldom saw a sunrise</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1WbiaIfr6g4giwlldX9v67PQRPpbd-U4daMfY6AE8wcX73OtNU9wFb7aRsbyoyQu9HGFV0xLx8PRvjtyweTGaGrehvWCBNvJja3IcjANHHBQHsaC0dO5F5Xfhmf_xioE7VY3wOg27Ctk3/s1600/DSC_0246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1WbiaIfr6g4giwlldX9v67PQRPpbd-U4daMfY6AE8wcX73OtNU9wFb7aRsbyoyQu9HGFV0xLx8PRvjtyweTGaGrehvWCBNvJja3IcjANHHBQHsaC0dO5F5Xfhmf_xioE7VY3wOg27Ctk3/s640/DSC_0246.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We went through quite a few squalls, which we didn't mind, as the rain washed the salt off the boat</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-10pGVqVDS9VUaYZZjmaR76Lp8-HisxFnH0J8q-J0g2QZtz5AWDtnjQj-r6pv8L5q1fKR8Xc7nN9X8zctDfAr_U2YV6b3LLD-rUhXBfBkEZUxv4dfByOBECbHjoZGIkelEKzur22yxiq/s1600/DSC_0251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-10pGVqVDS9VUaYZZjmaR76Lp8-HisxFnH0J8q-J0g2QZtz5AWDtnjQj-r6pv8L5q1fKR8Xc7nN9X8zctDfAr_U2YV6b3LLD-rUhXBfBkEZUxv4dfByOBECbHjoZGIkelEKzur22yxiq/s640/DSC_0251.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But the seas were always pretty rough. Here you can see the size of the waves coming at us from the side</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggE305WYEIAKCl95BCI3-IQmr2CY00cfbRJmb2UgKNJlJBjtHvgKbDriRXtZmG7Yd_U8285Sq519-NKvhV0qzivlCkF9TZI272PZSZXanvHASNfUxdgMHBBVKhWsS6Za0BQ5o_zeEfhjaE/s1600/DSC_0252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggE305WYEIAKCl95BCI3-IQmr2CY00cfbRJmb2UgKNJlJBjtHvgKbDriRXtZmG7Yd_U8285Sq519-NKvhV0qzivlCkF9TZI272PZSZXanvHASNfUxdgMHBBVKhWsS6Za0BQ5o_zeEfhjaE/s640/DSC_0252.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When the rains comes...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy3tn06mhfigeBOLHmyztqwacnx8j8m12nuGXyF5kPM9vF77kOSSz97z5Yc7WkYeNxnEfXsvAiqYiVDmwczydHMT8fb26nQqSwwlefGx4o6TgRNt1Nzga6YvvD8tFWX2cNFFAPBpdKGAEi/s1600/DSC_0253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy3tn06mhfigeBOLHmyztqwacnx8j8m12nuGXyF5kPM9vF77kOSSz97z5Yc7WkYeNxnEfXsvAiqYiVDmwczydHMT8fb26nQqSwwlefGx4o6TgRNt1Nzga6YvvD8tFWX2cNFFAPBpdKGAEi/s640/DSC_0253.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby finds ways to amuse herself...earrings made from our clothes pegs!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvde-b1cM3zS-9XLwCjfYONDSn08mxTdld1RMFHa_jshvO7Duf57ZDFSvkpDbjGg2PyYfkpe0aOnnMaI-D0d76S07QPvEz-oUjcRAROWc2wmcZi368ZrXKdMdbOER-Q_z6x2WMpsasmYzH/s1600/DSC_0011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvde-b1cM3zS-9XLwCjfYONDSn08mxTdld1RMFHa_jshvO7Duf57ZDFSvkpDbjGg2PyYfkpe0aOnnMaI-D0d76S07QPvEz-oUjcRAROWc2wmcZi368ZrXKdMdbOER-Q_z6x2WMpsasmYzH/s640/DSC_0011.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I've always enjoyed baking (much more than cooking!), so we found reasons to celebrate and make cupcakes or brownies or have pancakes or scones. Milestones such as the halfway mark, or under 2,000 or 1,000 miles count!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDOz1wdUjN1Vjx3cGSpSJ3c-NVzBIinnLD6k0abKj22QHFRxawVPis8yKLIanzDM-8uLMGO1YG3JjlCOt5eXws7j5ztSriVttGcwFhS8aDoIYjipGwP847pqSfpOi8xRoVHQUidsfFvJhi/s640/GOPR6847.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pancakes on my birthday!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDOz1wdUjN1Vjx3cGSpSJ3c-NVzBIinnLD6k0abKj22QHFRxawVPis8yKLIanzDM-8uLMGO1YG3JjlCOt5eXws7j5ztSriVttGcwFhS8aDoIYjipGwP847pqSfpOi8xRoVHQUidsfFvJhi/s1600/GOPR6847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXeclbicO6K-fg7OaRhqZtCjZcHzd0opNYdxswbverGqRcMajbAMth4gSszNBtvE7YskD6agZqbXoam_-YGC5ADBEK1OIwVb-hco63nZHjcvdL1bio6Z90czNc0RGjgnBUxt8wYDfY0bK/s1600/DSC_0301.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXeclbicO6K-fg7OaRhqZtCjZcHzd0opNYdxswbverGqRcMajbAMth4gSszNBtvE7YskD6agZqbXoam_-YGC5ADBEK1OIwVb-hco63nZHjcvdL1bio6Z90czNc0RGjgnBUxt8wYDfY0bK/s640/DSC_0301.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying the simple things like a rainbow </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiYW-RPKkWO9QxWt-WfpEwKzEfQMa5N20CPak5mALu7Qynu9aRNWZlMRVA9vE77JzlR1XBsxTO-rK7BeNmK1cxA9JnIJvrRhoLvkIDo93d8Gy35OYoly6r92aqZ_18HUJ49ySReTjEdyYE/s1600/GOPR6844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiYW-RPKkWO9QxWt-WfpEwKzEfQMa5N20CPak5mALu7Qynu9aRNWZlMRVA9vE77JzlR1XBsxTO-rK7BeNmK1cxA9JnIJvrRhoLvkIDo93d8Gy35OYoly6r92aqZ_18HUJ49ySReTjEdyYE/s640/GOPR6844.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rare sunny day. It really lifted the mood of all aboard when the sun shone!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihV0nuWqSxqHR58nZ9bSrmyB_uk49DKLj_XdVBQ2gGizQrELE9lxG0W6ylOIzrN51yR47Yx8WyzT6RkOPFPozi0BEWdXvEar8g289AvYlucpGpddJsfH6Hc3ts347zk4pvn5FRjibt7P89/s1600/DSC_0264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihV0nuWqSxqHR58nZ9bSrmyB_uk49DKLj_XdVBQ2gGizQrELE9lxG0W6ylOIzrN51yR47Yx8WyzT6RkOPFPozi0BEWdXvEar8g289AvYlucpGpddJsfH6Hc3ts347zk4pvn5FRjibt7P89/s640/DSC_0264.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the 18th we celebrated my birthday. We decided the cake was a replica of Ascension Island, with the mountain in the middle! The boat was moving so much, that the batter was swishing around in the pan in the oven! Thank you to all the kind birthday wishes that I received on passage, and the ones I picked up when I connected to Facebook and email again!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqqdaOWbgiMuh8G6cZ4fftOGeWNH8FJKixyfhl6uP7er8Xmy3DLlXD_zhJhkMhl553nJL_Ag3dsGGjMFr1DWJZbHdqu96CjPXMbsItwd8r8PYVM8yURsshxgZw0oj4GyDXNSegZOkfs4Gu/s1600/DSC_0267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqqdaOWbgiMuh8G6cZ4fftOGeWNH8FJKixyfhl6uP7er8Xmy3DLlXD_zhJhkMhl553nJL_Ag3dsGGjMFr1DWJZbHdqu96CjPXMbsItwd8r8PYVM8yURsshxgZw0oj4GyDXNSegZOkfs4Gu/s640/DSC_0267.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Gaby</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0fxZv5y7Ra0A86AXIAtpT6Td9dRuaXm8W9vyYu8OcUlC2t9xzMQASH7ZeyVYSLiSJydG6V1VQxbD0KdMCU4BGiqg8UvQo6o6ib1-bo9ppR37FeOnThfz1Q4549SIx_WW_NJ4Oi8RTpV3H/s1600/DSC_0289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0fxZv5y7Ra0A86AXIAtpT6Td9dRuaXm8W9vyYu8OcUlC2t9xzMQASH7ZeyVYSLiSJydG6V1VQxbD0KdMCU4BGiqg8UvQo6o6ib1-bo9ppR37FeOnThfz1Q4549SIx_WW_NJ4Oi8RTpV3H/s640/DSC_0289.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying my card from Benjamin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiQ77fUUZhyczQkF2D5EriVcTFOLHMR4a8go3CjAkmtdXfvN_Y9ygVdTtDm_ovq7Uvw-ZD9R2Yl0FIQ12YBzKt7P44aBWA3OPBNPMygWX72SmiHGvXocWWROydId8BWn149OWTL_TxClO6/s1600/DSC_0295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiQ77fUUZhyczQkF2D5EriVcTFOLHMR4a8go3CjAkmtdXfvN_Y9ygVdTtDm_ovq7Uvw-ZD9R2Yl0FIQ12YBzKt7P44aBWA3OPBNPMygWX72SmiHGvXocWWROydId8BWn149OWTL_TxClO6/s640/DSC_0295.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I got this beautiful necklace from Gaby and Dave. We had collected the unusual blue coral in Chagos. Dave drilled the holes and Gaby made the necklaces! It is now one of my favorite and most treasured possesions!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-OQURNKeJNluxaKNCDW00AEzBcSwQfIUTtbe2Ygmv87RMGlwIJuAHB4hGCvoUhrjJhyPzkJqCLMbx74h-FlR7SLdC-ajAsYrMTfEZVBiepnBAwyzs6cNZ8IhCL1vu7s7oaIUEiCytE-m/s1600/DSC_0297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-OQURNKeJNluxaKNCDW00AEzBcSwQfIUTtbe2Ygmv87RMGlwIJuAHB4hGCvoUhrjJhyPzkJqCLMbx74h-FlR7SLdC-ajAsYrMTfEZVBiepnBAwyzs6cNZ8IhCL1vu7s7oaIUEiCytE-m/s640/DSC_0297.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave also had to clean fuel filters. He described this in one of the posts we did along the way. We run the generator at night for an hour or two, to charge the batteries, as they don't last the night, especially when it had been cloudy during the day. The generator was battling to start, and Dave suspected the fuel filters were so dirty, that the fuel was battling to get through to start. This is a new and an old filter...!!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja8eBoyOh6BouUHMJpbj6Cy6CAF9bb7oNSFFV-AwDFr3BYmy0ST5uprqe2S4MV3usoM-0NvzglJ7-KFBsjLjq9BMNeb8fIHxY0hjwNqtVG89foal_T1_uKSv8jnIpwltMV6nBCersgwo4R/s1600/DSC_0298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja8eBoyOh6BouUHMJpbj6Cy6CAF9bb7oNSFFV-AwDFr3BYmy0ST5uprqe2S4MV3usoM-0NvzglJ7-KFBsjLjq9BMNeb8fIHxY0hjwNqtVG89foal_T1_uKSv8jnIpwltMV6nBCersgwo4R/s640/DSC_0298.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dave working on changing the filter. We believe the motion of the boat was stirring up the dirt at the bottom of the fuel tanks and confounding the problem. We then also polished the fuel in our tanks by running it through the fuel polishing and transfer system that Dave and his dad built and installed before we left</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjtrIJwtdYM-Z9Y_avV7_uiabxBuPEHW1YBQddmhnaqUoF0mRk-ukpHBUGCkyJdxpkjyOtomJeY3kQfQFhitxljsg76Ly4MqLqtxVTqGTiZ5MxCPNqJAvbfJxXCXhikEz0vtRD6Bg00Kvw/s640/DSC_0313.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise on the morning of our arrival in Tobago. You can see the confused sea state that made it such a bouncy passage!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjtrIJwtdYM-Z9Y_avV7_uiabxBuPEHW1YBQddmhnaqUoF0mRk-ukpHBUGCkyJdxpkjyOtomJeY3kQfQFhitxljsg76Ly4MqLqtxVTqGTiZ5MxCPNqJAvbfJxXCXhikEz0vtRD6Bg00Kvw/s1600/DSC_0313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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Many people have asked us why we didn't stop in Brazil, which would have given us a break in the long journey. We did think about it, but there were several reasons. The main one was that as US citizens you need a visa to enter Brazil, and we would have had to get this while in South Africa. It required going to the consulate, applying in writing and in person, handing over passports (you know we don't like that!), and then waiting for their decision. We just ran out of time in Cape Town to do this. It was also a cost issue at around $200 per visa. Brazil was (apparently) switching to an easier, online system, however, it was only going live for US citizens on January 28th, when we didn't have access to the internet. In the end, it was also a time issue: we were eager to get to the Caribbean and have some time to enjoy it before heading home. So, ultimately, we made the decision to just make the journey from Ascension to Tobago in one go.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our track across the Atlantic Ocean</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Land ahoy!! Captain is very happy!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIGlrbUufQIlu_4xcxYNiAn0DrFXj4Va121qDN4zPqWYSCnWVN9q5fFjDhMzuOmciwYEPk_DXPyJCD2LGFPliSbKaZnYiRXnvUkiwWcxv5045HwY0aISImZREUI7ucVq66Oo8GyiIfes2K/s1600/GOPR6878.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIGlrbUufQIlu_4xcxYNiAn0DrFXj4Va121qDN4zPqWYSCnWVN9q5fFjDhMzuOmciwYEPk_DXPyJCD2LGFPliSbKaZnYiRXnvUkiwWcxv5045HwY0aISImZREUI7ucVq66Oo8GyiIfes2K/s640/GOPR6878.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering Man-of-War Bay in the small fishing village of Charlottesville, Tobago! After 19 days at sea, we were thrilled to see land again and have the long passage behind us! We were looking forward to a good night's sleep, and a cold, Carib beer!</td></tr>
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-91786618120398979472018-03-08T11:53:00.000-04:002018-03-08T11:53:14.996-04:00Looking Back: Ascension IslandWe thought St. Helena was an island of contrasts...well, we hadn't been to Ascension yet! We arrived here on Monday, January 29th, after a pleasant 5 day sail from St. Helena. We arrived at night, carefully making our way into Clarence Bay and dropping anchor. We had to be careful to avoid the floating pipeline, which floats on the water, waiting for a tanker to arrive, and then brings fuel to the island.<br />
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My previous post on Ascension <a href="http://svcoolrunnings.blogspot.com/2018/02/ascension-island-south-atlantic-ocean.html" target="_blank">(click here to read it)</a>, described most of our time there, so I'll try not to repeat too much, but as for St. Helena, it really is nice to have pictures to illustrate what I was describing.<br />
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Tuesday morning revealed the island to us...beautiful, blue water, a white, sandy beach, and stark, arid mountains! The exception to this, was the mountain in the middle, "Green Mountain", aptly named since it is completely covered in dense vegetation (more on that later)!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzi8V-Kg9xWqW-G0NvyQPlgjaeGEzGks1Gv7T6NZIWGQQxN8osYtnJXI2bnTDPnHxrRTfi3Sf6bFtFF-sLW6cLcTjnI5JV1sVaB2RC_X2LCQac_BJuE5Bwflst46jrsPkVF-gU96xDn7x/s1600/DSC_0001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzi8V-Kg9xWqW-G0NvyQPlgjaeGEzGks1Gv7T6NZIWGQQxN8osYtnJXI2bnTDPnHxrRTfi3Sf6bFtFF-sLW6cLcTjnI5JV1sVaB2RC_X2LCQac_BJuE5Bwflst46jrsPkVF-gU96xDn7x/s640/DSC_0001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our first view of Ascension Island from the anchorage in Clarence Bay</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjK7Cdnw5I7G_uxygiYYhbd__Wx9exxUrtT95dwtsQf1kOtp4LmVsH5xDo_B8tuAbAJLM9a_2H7SPGJZ4rc5PVPP_H61082KsSeuH8aaW2Exixb9SE0mvbhKG1v7YbdZJdGKd9EBjdoi2w/s1600/DSC_0122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjK7Cdnw5I7G_uxygiYYhbd__Wx9exxUrtT95dwtsQf1kOtp4LmVsH5xDo_B8tuAbAJLM9a_2H7SPGJZ4rc5PVPP_H61082KsSeuH8aaW2Exixb9SE0mvbhKG1v7YbdZJdGKd9EBjdoi2w/s640/DSC_0122.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The floating pipeline: a lifeline for the island.. a navigational hazard for yachties!!</td></tr>
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The first day, Tuesday, we were confined to the boat. The swell in the anchorage was so big, that we were unable to get ashore! There is no "dinghy dock" in Ascension, much like in St. Helena. You have to come up to a concrete pier and use big ropes to pull yourself onto the concrete stairs, and then anchor your dinghy off a little to allow it to ride the swells and not get bashed against the pier. It was always interesting getting on and off! When there is a swell, it is harder, or, in our case on the first day, impossible!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqG434DZZRrqtC8NqkyEbs7nXMevQ30oTkSGZUx2rjosGe0cmZMFL6-mfC87CGBdijkRKV0KXESqP4xtS00Ic9zKQTu3Rtj2eF4_L76mV_0K9D36FxOOy-FvAgvBkVfPT1qsKbKI2rAkCM/s1600/GOPR6782.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqG434DZZRrqtC8NqkyEbs7nXMevQ30oTkSGZUx2rjosGe0cmZMFL6-mfC87CGBdijkRKV0KXESqP4xtS00Ic9zKQTu3Rtj2eF4_L76mV_0K9D36FxOOy-FvAgvBkVfPT1qsKbKI2rAkCM/s640/GOPR6782.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben and Gaby went to explore the dinghy dock on day 1 and decided it was not a good idea to go ashore. Even port control radioed us and told us not to come!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiue8wD5ue1Y-b4xZ_iVdMsKLH5m1T-3LX_vNn9Zb7o8zCBwol6XfstiiH-zEYuKpqsVpcUujfyeECCTXrXH4J3fDU8HhJcgwVnR6PeVzh0yusGUKvMMFIOTYrZagao7AwaOJ6FHgZI8xpq/s1600/DSC_0009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiue8wD5ue1Y-b4xZ_iVdMsKLH5m1T-3LX_vNn9Zb7o8zCBwol6XfstiiH-zEYuKpqsVpcUujfyeECCTXrXH4J3fDU8HhJcgwVnR6PeVzh0yusGUKvMMFIOTYrZagao7AwaOJ6FHgZI8xpq/s640/DSC_0009.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Negotiating the dinghy dock on a good day!</td></tr>
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Having spent the day aboard on Tuesday, we were happy to get ashore on Wednesday! We cleared in together with "Tangled Up", who had arrived that morning, and whom we had met in St. Helena. Check in was easy and Kitty at Port Control was very friendly. The immigration officer came down to the port and checked us into the country. An FYI for any cruisers interested in going to Ascension: they do require that you carry health insurance, similar to what was required in Chagos. They are looking for general medical coverage, and in particular for medical evacuation coverage up to $500,000 per person. Our insurance did have this, so we were OK. Apparently, you can purchase health insurance if you don't have any or the appropriate coverage.<br />
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We then explored the tiny settlement of Georgetown. There are no permanent residents here, only contract workers or military personnell. It is a mix of ex-pats and Saints (St. Helena natives). Even if they are born here, they do not have citizenship, and if they finish school and can't get a job here, they need to leave. Georgetown was eerily deserted, there are no tourists here, and the small hotel that used to operate is closed. There are no restaurants like in St. Helena, just the grocery store where we managed to get the last 2 meat pies, and a drink, and then we walked the streets, baking in the heat thanks to the black, volcanic stones that make up the streets and sidewalks.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi9GDLmFg37SfoxpGrFeo7Ppu8HJc9wkvqxAQwdLop5f1EIkOdTmXo2QG9fJPGGCOAPJ4nmMByXPmA8k4yoYriIki3TMOfnTgIUkyB9IkGB-_FyeonCgDeBJPS04H03_SKjREvS-1mHPn7/s1600/IMG20180131130610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi9GDLmFg37SfoxpGrFeo7Ppu8HJc9wkvqxAQwdLop5f1EIkOdTmXo2QG9fJPGGCOAPJ4nmMByXPmA8k4yoYriIki3TMOfnTgIUkyB9IkGB-_FyeonCgDeBJPS04H03_SKjREvS-1mHPn7/s640/IMG20180131130610.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Georgetown, with St. Mary's church in the background</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2015 marked Ascension Island's 200 year anniversary. Organised settlement of Ascension Island began in 1815, when the British garrisoned it as a precaution against rescue attempts to free Napoleon after he was imprisoned on Saint Helena. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuZsu_2E4llo3_n2xNfC-VCEgAIv1jeZAoBVvChEmAU4ndHzg9kFhnM7IEbmjQnwuD5UzEAUvkeJXV4V5-MW2qXu9ymVdU_uRyBoSURNZr3fJhyphenhyphenPD9dyRzDy_TCoSYdWgj-jsWukj1Bnpr/s1600/IMG20180131130742.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuZsu_2E4llo3_n2xNfC-VCEgAIv1jeZAoBVvChEmAU4ndHzg9kFhnM7IEbmjQnwuD5UzEAUvkeJXV4V5-MW2qXu9ymVdU_uRyBoSURNZr3fJhyphenhyphenPD9dyRzDy_TCoSYdWgj-jsWukj1Bnpr/s640/IMG20180131130742.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I always love the contrast of color against stark, barren hills!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ6OoKB1PAfnrlQU7N9mpPskKN79FBUyKPA-luQQrrqigN1Vn3tLaabiotTxsXKl6WTCs2pkymEBytX8ZgyvHVTtD8PtHgrgdG_KA6A05HKGrOrAgt6HG52Lj4AfublpqRojZBExO1hTfP/s1600/IMG20180131135426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ6OoKB1PAfnrlQU7N9mpPskKN79FBUyKPA-luQQrrqigN1Vn3tLaabiotTxsXKl6WTCs2pkymEBytX8ZgyvHVTtD8PtHgrgdG_KA6A05HKGrOrAgt6HG52Lj4AfublpqRojZBExO1hTfP/s640/IMG20180131135426.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Donkeys in the streets! The donkeys here are ferel, as are the sheep. They used to use the donkeys to transport goods, but eventually they just left them to roam around when they were no longer needed.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggRZfbZCfswzX_F6NPLcxI8DB9uVITU6-znvwyXW1dPqWIXsFg12eW7nGG6x4TLH6ULCdsQPfwzUols3PI1pmN86LYb0XtOOs65oDQ0Nj1aLu8fdmnWRGg3pivq1Ma2YY7aXQOF186JH7u/s1600/IMG20180131135223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggRZfbZCfswzX_F6NPLcxI8DB9uVITU6-znvwyXW1dPqWIXsFg12eW7nGG6x4TLH6ULCdsQPfwzUols3PI1pmN86LYb0XtOOs65oDQ0Nj1aLu8fdmnWRGg3pivq1Ma2YY7aXQOF186JH7u/s640/IMG20180131135223.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They were very sweet and friendly</td></tr>
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We walked over to the fort, Fort Hayes, which was built on Goat Hill and constructed in the 1860's.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3RC5GqLa5tSaBNStZiD9aJ0cNsQsqBSACDMy44G_JFaH30cUFPLy0y27PFSawKL9n9xFpfofw5zkV__I9lPUpNKj_3aGZl8xERyxgL65skP74rzQQI8ULyF3KdfgL2YgvJGCgyj5Kb9Uh/s1600/IMG20180131142615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3RC5GqLa5tSaBNStZiD9aJ0cNsQsqBSACDMy44G_JFaH30cUFPLy0y27PFSawKL9n9xFpfofw5zkV__I9lPUpNKj_3aGZl8xERyxgL65skP74rzQQI8ULyF3KdfgL2YgvJGCgyj5Kb9Uh/s640/IMG20180131142615.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fort Hayes</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6B4nYfu_XsfZtPjGslTn2AL6HIuAqEsf8q7AWTi-lRksdoWqhMV6c3PVCKmdmd9ZxAnFfV3zxF9TbLDUFuWUOkcPhwvwdRvE10F-StGXqGtgbbYZscA8nSWpoFNYXSVjNZC-ia_wvHBVi/s1600/IMG20180131144605.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6B4nYfu_XsfZtPjGslTn2AL6HIuAqEsf8q7AWTi-lRksdoWqhMV6c3PVCKmdmd9ZxAnFfV3zxF9TbLDUFuWUOkcPhwvwdRvE10F-StGXqGtgbbYZscA8nSWpoFNYXSVjNZC-ia_wvHBVi/s640/IMG20180131144605.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The inside of the fort: very different to what we had been used to seeing when visiting old forts!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgHvOkkswx7kP0xrkyBYMtzqFWrGFY6oali8O224WCsYeDLUoGZiJinVUgP9BS-2oZxbG_rVtzwK00Czue55iYLViYYkHEdM4Q2EVeb0mdFjb0bG2LMgX9TYYycXru3hS3D9hRQ7Tz1qks/s1600/DSC_0041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgHvOkkswx7kP0xrkyBYMtzqFWrGFY6oali8O224WCsYeDLUoGZiJinVUgP9BS-2oZxbG_rVtzwK00Czue55iYLViYYkHEdM4Q2EVeb0mdFjb0bG2LMgX9TYYycXru3hS3D9hRQ7Tz1qks/s640/DSC_0041.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of Georgetown from the fort</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBm8YgmOeca-Ld4qtdr1cAlR-jyB8vn8UvsJXQ_4S6TDqokTAdkLaTzH9o9m-LGwmXuzPWiAxFFrIyZtVmqhzWKYCONTc8dvcte2kREfvH5qn-b6vyT4x7Ygc0rS8YVqRsHOLF73MDt1W_/s1600/IMG20180131144756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBm8YgmOeca-Ld4qtdr1cAlR-jyB8vn8UvsJXQ_4S6TDqokTAdkLaTzH9o9m-LGwmXuzPWiAxFFrIyZtVmqhzWKYCONTc8dvcte2kREfvH5qn-b6vyT4x7Ygc0rS8YVqRsHOLF73MDt1W_/s640/IMG20180131144756.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking towards the docks from the fort. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtbEZ94eI9V-pk8ujxYElQyhetdYsPTok7BYtLvtrQetem5qsdRSgDSIl3Y-h-tSc1deP6xP3WsjSC8Soeyt9uazttP9Lax24V1__tWlsH5YDSwVG2b0zG7yzC3jDLk30fPFgHNMzhevjg/s1600/IMG20180131145418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtbEZ94eI9V-pk8ujxYElQyhetdYsPTok7BYtLvtrQetem5qsdRSgDSIl3Y-h-tSc1deP6xP3WsjSC8Soeyt9uazttP9Lax24V1__tWlsH5YDSwVG2b0zG7yzC3jDLk30fPFgHNMzhevjg/s640/IMG20180131145418.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And one more...</td></tr>
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The following day, Thursday, we were lucky enough to meet up with Andy Hobson, who lives on Ascension, his wife Janet teaches at the school at a small settlement called "Two Boats". Hazel from the Consulate Hotel in St. Helena had put us in touch with Andy, and we brought some plant cuttings over from St. Helena for Andy and Janet. Andy was extremely kind and spent the entire day giving us a fantastic and fascinating tour of the island, even opening the small museum for us!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrOvoRnMb0MAjgspCj3LZigxh0aXI7EvZnOHc6YY7W-6mkTp784OVupOatfrBKAwmL3pqWisk6fLQ0nyYayr1GzXOyGImg08buEIDEPzIP7OWj0RMfgXjgVX3oTVIZejtv3CGSIkw0V2n/s1600/DSC_0012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrOvoRnMb0MAjgspCj3LZigxh0aXI7EvZnOHc6YY7W-6mkTp784OVupOatfrBKAwmL3pqWisk6fLQ0nyYayr1GzXOyGImg08buEIDEPzIP7OWj0RMfgXjgVX3oTVIZejtv3CGSIkw0V2n/s640/DSC_0012.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby in the museum: History lesson!</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-Vjdn59D24fJp30_KkMSDWTD8BzAU0NryIFt6vqJd-Ylk6XtbFcWee687Gm2DDA5cep42VEQLXg3gfArFKfjc8sozu9wxR5VdWrcSL9cbAqYM6W3HOHlVigWPsogPbaRrIh8QyZW_m67/s1600/DSC_0016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-Vjdn59D24fJp30_KkMSDWTD8BzAU0NryIFt6vqJd-Ylk6XtbFcWee687Gm2DDA5cep42VEQLXg3gfArFKfjc8sozu9wxR5VdWrcSL9cbAqYM6W3HOHlVigWPsogPbaRrIh8QyZW_m67/s640/DSC_0016.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ascension was a fairly important communications hub, with huge cables being laid on the floor of the Atlantic Ocean. This is a submarine cable test desk displayed in the museum</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYKfZjAalj8nLvaVZD4_r0CckGVmHFUaT_l9WV83hHYwTBJShIjZiWoywXkzuZT3XFAvepjckjxEB7YT_g02tvKd1QtY5TmPAjCkQ8MTAU4YDMTWSNqws2R2Pro0HqdsMO-vABFzwwHjM/s1600/DSC_0025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYKfZjAalj8nLvaVZD4_r0CckGVmHFUaT_l9WV83hHYwTBJShIjZiWoywXkzuZT3XFAvepjckjxEB7YT_g02tvKd1QtY5TmPAjCkQ8MTAU4YDMTWSNqws2R2Pro0HqdsMO-vABFzwwHjM/s640/DSC_0025.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A display on turtle capture in the museum. </td></tr>
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Turtle capture was a big industry in Ascension, until the 1930's when it was banned. Prior to that, however, as many as 50 turtles could be caught in one night. "Turtle Turners" would wait for the turtles to come ashore at night, usually to lay their eggs, then they would simply catch them and turn them on the backs. The turtles were then totally immobile. They were then transferred to turtle pens, where they were kept until they were either killed for local consumption, or, more likely, loaded onto ships for transport to England. Unfortunately, many of the turtles didn't survive the trip to England, making it a bit of a futile exercise. The turtle pens are still visible in Ascension today. More on the turtles later...the good news is that there is a big conservation effort to save and protect the green turtles of Ascension, and we saw many of them happily swimming around our boat! 😊💓🐢</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjphll671VWOUihhpE5BJG2zKhNY-0eR8up_DjZDYY066So3mwKR1ne2eiuAmwZAehjJrZdcx6liiK-Qn1jXQib-lxuBhm69fjUIFgtbsgMGZdOZL2aStK8PT6DQVfDNXkQxaFzmjD-_Nbb/s1600/DSC_0117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjphll671VWOUihhpE5BJG2zKhNY-0eR8up_DjZDYY066So3mwKR1ne2eiuAmwZAehjJrZdcx6liiK-Qn1jXQib-lxuBhm69fjUIFgtbsgMGZdOZL2aStK8PT6DQVfDNXkQxaFzmjD-_Nbb/s640/DSC_0117.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A turtle swimming around Cool Runnings, poking its little head up for a look and a gulp of air!</td></tr>
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With Andy, we also had access to the inside of the fort, where we saw many interesting and old artifacts on display. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZg5wtiXQEXLLsfF0KwP2gEyhAJ0_-_d-s61R9b9UfE8iIT-0zTgJkbDHe2bbD33rZUMI43IvGB1WRZWBHPOIpatbh0LZEt7pCKfhYHM4sFNqfbbwynbzUqM2SVXsXjDiihrDSaa7xkZVs/s1600/DSC_0035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZg5wtiXQEXLLsfF0KwP2gEyhAJ0_-_d-s61R9b9UfE8iIT-0zTgJkbDHe2bbD33rZUMI43IvGB1WRZWBHPOIpatbh0LZEt7pCKfhYHM4sFNqfbbwynbzUqM2SVXsXjDiihrDSaa7xkZVs/s640/DSC_0035.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hundreds, upon thousands of old bottles!! There were displays of old bottles everywhere! Because there was a shortage of water on the island, soldiers drank lots of beer and rum!!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl2ZLT_ogrc2jVIsWLEPOR5Xp8LBUlnozHN1gtxu8StqlX9m0rYsLr-B8wc90ir2Cx0ZFetXKArB1XHjHtIGNuagfTqQmROLLuo21cxQ3bao9FVgHYHBZsury4kOM-vXlipuu6FK3YWcyN/s1600/DSC_0026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl2ZLT_ogrc2jVIsWLEPOR5Xp8LBUlnozHN1gtxu8StqlX9m0rYsLr-B8wc90ir2Cx0ZFetXKArB1XHjHtIGNuagfTqQmROLLuo21cxQ3bao9FVgHYHBZsury4kOM-vXlipuu6FK3YWcyN/s640/DSC_0026.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful old stained glass windows from St. Mary's church</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvmKbhKp0OKygeKFRDt8bAWgP_UVSXekx-9d1mLh5KEUwxhhBJNduFf_v37XR4s_N79bmbotKiMo2d3er8n_iJKediizr_T53tsRW4oOZiH7LbU__5zUP_eDwmJ5QUYM7jUapqChnV4wwz/s1600/DSC_0042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvmKbhKp0OKygeKFRDt8bAWgP_UVSXekx-9d1mLh5KEUwxhhBJNduFf_v37XR4s_N79bmbotKiMo2d3er8n_iJKediizr_T53tsRW4oOZiH7LbU__5zUP_eDwmJ5QUYM7jUapqChnV4wwz/s640/DSC_0042.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking around the fort, this time with Andy as a guide</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheY8Bb4RKlEQoMV2wZ_DqQHO1RhSNfvVc_ePUe4Dzh66Wgu-T2YmeTR6HV77Vl6BMmYz3pouMeRwpPGXDf84iTqwxC-R4d7XXS-rftfZXM9GpiofQcOJZKTdnL6nBZmH0hhH6P8J4lolRF/s1600/DSC_0043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheY8Bb4RKlEQoMV2wZ_DqQHO1RhSNfvVc_ePUe4Dzh66Wgu-T2YmeTR6HV77Vl6BMmYz3pouMeRwpPGXDf84iTqwxC-R4d7XXS-rftfZXM9GpiofQcOJZKTdnL6nBZmH0hhH6P8J4lolRF/s640/DSC_0043.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This pictures shows the height and thickness of the fort walls in relation to Gaby and Ben</td></tr>
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Leaving the dry, arid landscape of Georgetown behind us, Andy drove us up to Green Mountain. Early visitors to Ascension at the beginning of the 19th century described the island as exceptionally barren. Only a handful of plant species (most of them endemic to Ascension), were found on Green Mountain. So we wondered how it became the lush, green landscape that we see today?!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2i9AyYp55Gs-kVH6YqcuUPRIdLnGLWckSIKHheRxDNApaBtQYjCGvc5IdIj3d7X-FNVkq116W_HfVdBbcvf5vKXziaKY-gnzygeoJu8ActjHC8pqn3JeplWKppkByevQaQ0t5zzIJcQlY/s1600/DSC_0050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2i9AyYp55Gs-kVH6YqcuUPRIdLnGLWckSIKHheRxDNApaBtQYjCGvc5IdIj3d7X-FNVkq116W_HfVdBbcvf5vKXziaKY-gnzygeoJu8ActjHC8pqn3JeplWKppkByevQaQ0t5zzIJcQlY/s640/DSC_0050.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Driving up Green Mountain</td></tr>
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In fact, it was really a big ecological experiment! (Some people will argue that it is a man-made biological invasion that has degraded a previously pristine environment). Charles Darwin visited the island in 1836 and commented on the lack of trees. Darwin's close friend, Sir Joseph Hooker, who was later Director of the Royal Botanical Gardens (Kew Gardens) proposed a plan to increase vegetation on the mountain, by planting trees to increase rainfall, and vegetation on the slopes of the mountain to prevent soil erosion. Over 220 species were introduced to the island in a mass planting, and as you'll see from the pictures, it was an overwhelming success! Ultimately the fittest of the introduced species survived, leaving a mix of plants from all over the world on this one mountain on an otherwise barren island. The only negative is that some of the endemic species are now in danger of becoming extinct, so work is being done to protect them.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8kV4RiFXQFNQ-SHF1oVrw7MmxJZm_6VTcSpb3M2a41GyY0yJ2crpygkmtvu13uHUofNg4qPnUbVrt9eUcnKinacG1uzccXvCxDPH-okY3lk4YyucbA8Yy4l4KSy2_H4bp1sQJe0bjlEXl/s1600/DSC_0064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8kV4RiFXQFNQ-SHF1oVrw7MmxJZm_6VTcSpb3M2a41GyY0yJ2crpygkmtvu13uHUofNg4qPnUbVrt9eUcnKinacG1uzccXvCxDPH-okY3lk4YyucbA8Yy4l4KSy2_H4bp1sQJe0bjlEXl/s640/DSC_0064.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view from Green Mountain down towards the ocean</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1JwSntIgbVpAl30NGGK0hJpY-tdXOOhV4DtCiVVKmwMLWWk0AMzRDzhq8kmsfRd4h2eSAg6SVwwsC8OiakSSZGkIqshhBizr79oqXYFX1dUcvu0G114NDZsmMr4lVvCS3LJccATbydtXl/s1600/DSC_0057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1JwSntIgbVpAl30NGGK0hJpY-tdXOOhV4DtCiVVKmwMLWWk0AMzRDzhq8kmsfRd4h2eSAg6SVwwsC8OiakSSZGkIqshhBizr79oqXYFX1dUcvu0G114NDZsmMr4lVvCS3LJccATbydtXl/s640/DSC_0057.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We came across a land crab. Once a year, from March to May, these crabs make the long journey down the mountain, across lava fields to the coast to lay their eggs. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP2bJXP2co1ezcH0MasBziKuJbPL-p_bVspCrFQfYoypNlpaOL9z5T10_TPxWyIOj_nPV56D6I0k889dOZqRD8JsBxRdi3TuQkOIuHpQ7MXL3Jm19Srg4xcqiMMkitI-3ppVsS42lrTFjE/s1600/DSC_0055.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP2bJXP2co1ezcH0MasBziKuJbPL-p_bVspCrFQfYoypNlpaOL9z5T10_TPxWyIOj_nPV56D6I0k889dOZqRD8JsBxRdi3TuQkOIuHpQ7MXL3Jm19Srg4xcqiMMkitI-3ppVsS42lrTFjE/s640/DSC_0055.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view of the island from Green Mountain</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4npgKDGOtPBcbrYwtL_cSAR1CsNqpJFHtkw4VcOAk2NGsTFYA0San-MJy2tY3uugxONXUasgdGs51Yqbgle-ZlQrhI0C31l2mllpE9o3_CC4JiBjqFHuTuCuftlc875SB9G9VD33NtbjP/s1600/DSC_0052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4npgKDGOtPBcbrYwtL_cSAR1CsNqpJFHtkw4VcOAk2NGsTFYA0San-MJy2tY3uugxONXUasgdGs51Yqbgle-ZlQrhI0C31l2mllpE9o3_CC4JiBjqFHuTuCuftlc875SB9G9VD33NtbjP/s640/DSC_0052.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Army barracks were built on Green Mountain. These old buildings are now deserted</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCuAWXuCEiaZy8VZ8wsAGFyICobBziZh7EgjrX1q-iCqfKoMOD5AKBtq7EUS3qz5X1Elm5mHQC_49z4qsJAYKESmElEW7unkxikQ0vpwxkfHKWbmxj4ssvbTGVL-YGyuJ5JaGohp0evAc/s1600/DSC_0068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCuAWXuCEiaZy8VZ8wsAGFyICobBziZh7EgjrX1q-iCqfKoMOD5AKBtq7EUS3qz5X1Elm5mHQC_49z4qsJAYKESmElEW7unkxikQ0vpwxkfHKWbmxj4ssvbTGVL-YGyuJ5JaGohp0evAc/s400/DSC_0068.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben hiking one of the Green Mountain trails</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPALHxyKNoXO1qaxwR9IkcE2auAhFKyzPnc6fwvDRJQYqf6JTMD9zYfBbCn1-RSvHFsUrXGSrHPge3t_iZ089ALU3r9WTSKk8HjegwvfLqzuPnCVfCFFKhXhMPkYAa4Mizun_c_-8-p9Ye/s1600/DSC_0071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPALHxyKNoXO1qaxwR9IkcE2auAhFKyzPnc6fwvDRJQYqf6JTMD9zYfBbCn1-RSvHFsUrXGSrHPge3t_iZ089ALU3r9WTSKk8HjegwvfLqzuPnCVfCFFKhXhMPkYAa4Mizun_c_-8-p9Ye/s400/DSC_0071.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was a lava tunnel that we came across!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwz82jwufw2NsGLbBDAyQh0NimWuaczaSzPxKltxteEahllUsiqUUP8egjb1KlGK-yhRG1tYiq9nRZ3RPS7rML3_guvI8mZVdbxhwuYFsyC48yLN47zMPiZ_aISQzkqxaU-ApC6-dNpX9i/s1600/DSC_0074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwz82jwufw2NsGLbBDAyQh0NimWuaczaSzPxKltxteEahllUsiqUUP8egjb1KlGK-yhRG1tYiq9nRZ3RPS7rML3_guvI8mZVdbxhwuYFsyC48yLN47zMPiZ_aISQzkqxaU-ApC6-dNpX9i/s640/DSC_0074.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These hillsides were covered in concrete to provide run-off of rainwater into a collection system below. This was done in the 1800's!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNFhll_xc1-vJRiR0ZXq-t4UqhjXcczejDSa6_n_thmCtbVqJHIqFDmVVgyU1kAJTS3WDZQZ5878UVyOshwVSFbIBlRnJZkBwwOTzIJkVHK_DKHlbKKXiXaMvs1hFYvnIhNI2_9iFyo8YA/s1600/DSC_0083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNFhll_xc1-vJRiR0ZXq-t4UqhjXcczejDSa6_n_thmCtbVqJHIqFDmVVgyU1kAJTS3WDZQZ5878UVyOshwVSFbIBlRnJZkBwwOTzIJkVHK_DKHlbKKXiXaMvs1hFYvnIhNI2_9iFyo8YA/s640/DSC_0083.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the runway on Wideawake airfield in the distance. This is the US Military base on the island. There is also a British Military base. </td></tr>
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In 1982 the British task force used Ascension Island as a staging post during the Falklands War. The Royal Air Force deployed a fleet of Vulcan bombers and Victor tankers at the airfield. The RAF also used the base to supply the task force.<br />
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Because of the increase in air traffic during the Falklands War, Wideawake airfield, the US military base, with up to 400 movements of all types each day, was one of the busiest airfields in the world for a short period! The Royal Navy's fleet stopped at Ascension for refuelling on the way. Following the war, the British retained an increased presence on the island, establishing RAF Ascension Island, and providing a refuelling stop for the regular airlink between RAF Brize Norton in Oxfordshire, and RAF Mount Pleasant in the Falkland Islands. (<i>info from Wikipedia</i>)<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv6vOp1A7TCDYC3jkt2lyIJoze0FrHUr0UBmhk-LN-zo4d9iEpKPyha2VAmeX8Sp2NXsCmEDVX-Tk7hAaKc5noiWFB7Gik7OL4S_qnBndqkoNkblZ2IvyMUUE32i48KmWkc8B6afsuTfUA/s1600/DSC_0086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv6vOp1A7TCDYC3jkt2lyIJoze0FrHUr0UBmhk-LN-zo4d9iEpKPyha2VAmeX8Sp2NXsCmEDVX-Tk7hAaKc5noiWFB7Gik7OL4S_qnBndqkoNkblZ2IvyMUUE32i48KmWkc8B6afsuTfUA/s640/DSC_0086.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One last view from Green Mountain. One would think, looking at this scene, that there are multiple volcanoes on Ascension, however, it is one volcano, with 47 vents! </td></tr>
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Descending the mountain, Andy took us over to the other side of the island, where we were able to see Boatswain Bird Island, breeding ground of the Ascension Frigate bird, and many other sea birds. The island used to have many ferel cats that attacked the birds and for a while the bird population was seriously endangered, but the cat problem was taken care of, and now the birds have come back to breed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqsgPYDT-v3muLIs7FCjTlMDZgIA4fVsmGkQFT3iLahf2Xn1_JtiFeJwrRuH_b4dzwYlX9uTCcjlkGOYSdw5k56fzv8yqIfvRZawIkfpx6X9M2GGG4wHt5xwrfuMHH33QzBaSrW-P1JhFU/s1600/DSC_0091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqsgPYDT-v3muLIs7FCjTlMDZgIA4fVsmGkQFT3iLahf2Xn1_JtiFeJwrRuH_b4dzwYlX9uTCcjlkGOYSdw5k56fzv8yqIfvRZawIkfpx6X9M2GGG4wHt5xwrfuMHH33QzBaSrW-P1JhFU/s640/DSC_0091.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boatswain Bird Island. a lava flow is clearly visible</td></tr>
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We also visited the site where NASA had a tracking station for the early space expeditions and moon landings. As I mentioned in my other blog post on Ascension, the island is full of the most weird and wonderful antennae and radar domes we have ever seen, with all sorts of tracking of all sorts of things going on here! Another great contrast...super advanced technical equipment amongst a very unique, natural environment!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2qb75jGO3MvMR3M7eHTUMfgjH7DMj7DHsgIqgdTiRzBKLzUbbCvy3uorqNk7wF7NOlZ8DwjrO5HWXo9Ohwrd-1b82rwIHcr2VUan0iuedeq7yPw7AWJnlt3Ql69drcUVYXiFdwj3sL3lJ/s1600/DSC_0096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2qb75jGO3MvMR3M7eHTUMfgjH7DMj7DHsgIqgdTiRzBKLzUbbCvy3uorqNk7wF7NOlZ8DwjrO5HWXo9Ohwrd-1b82rwIHcr2VUan0iuedeq7yPw7AWJnlt3Ql69drcUVYXiFdwj3sL3lJ/s640/DSC_0096.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maybe a little difficult to see, but there are many antennae on the left of the picture</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrpWHmbk61Elfdp4MIr4r_5vgEXavUbukAf6E8MWJtad1tEyt1ro-GJ9NEFcEtZiNo3z8iGzbrH7mXBVUnik7UB2GyVhQ29OcBVNLEoLVU6LoGrB_IZEcGik10ASdNA2b3wCFwjKK0u3j/s1600/DSC_0102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrpWHmbk61Elfdp4MIr4r_5vgEXavUbukAf6E8MWJtad1tEyt1ro-GJ9NEFcEtZiNo3z8iGzbrH7mXBVUnik7UB2GyVhQ29OcBVNLEoLVU6LoGrB_IZEcGik10ASdNA2b3wCFwjKK0u3j/s640/DSC_0102.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the "golf ball" radar domes contrasted against black, volcanic rock</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoxLQrtN4x_2LZzrjkcrKgGryfF4D1qJWCqdgM7SF-Ki1FltrBdmOyNXh_6go0MkyzXujsZF3080mxP4fOQHKus21o19UDKGsjjVkfYcZG9yNIbhcjF-2l2EGdip4wj4xNHfaEKlFu7MSn/s1600/DSC_0098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoxLQrtN4x_2LZzrjkcrKgGryfF4D1qJWCqdgM7SF-Ki1FltrBdmOyNXh_6go0MkyzXujsZF3080mxP4fOQHKus21o19UDKGsjjVkfYcZG9yNIbhcjF-2l2EGdip4wj4xNHfaEKlFu7MSn/s640/DSC_0098.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking down to English Bay</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq3We9awBeHNrNwiaDY1F9_PsHgeeAwch47rCd853oBNi-sMSHwADjeQ-ooAbrCoL3naNj47h0ji9B2H1CC55gdveKxSBiWXKhh534Ci-VuTtU437FqP4gJ86MkNYIq3Ouf8RGAm8ZHpG5/s1600/DSC_0100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq3We9awBeHNrNwiaDY1F9_PsHgeeAwch47rCd853oBNi-sMSHwADjeQ-ooAbrCoL3naNj47h0ji9B2H1CC55gdveKxSBiWXKhh534Ci-VuTtU437FqP4gJ86MkNYIq3Ouf8RGAm8ZHpG5/s640/DSC_0100.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful water of Comfortless Cove. Sadly all swimming was banned when we were there, due to 2 relatively recent shark attacks</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnYG8b2v5FnuxwsBAylHP4bNuNe9tx4Gov0trBKm2Ki7UI-1VK6Jb1T9GyJpZrKbunPHEtqQq4Dzx1_hyjkbaBN8lTIfhJLsH4Xw5xcVOWlPP3k8aUSbat6ib5-k8oW8I7hcPavVJPLXjV/s1600/DSC_0103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnYG8b2v5FnuxwsBAylHP4bNuNe9tx4Gov0trBKm2Ki7UI-1VK6Jb1T9GyJpZrKbunPHEtqQq4Dzx1_hyjkbaBN8lTIfhJLsH4Xw5xcVOWlPP3k8aUSbat6ib5-k8oW8I7hcPavVJPLXjV/s640/DSC_0103.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cemetary behind Comfortless Cove, so named because is is where they brought the poor souls that were dying of Yellow Fever (and left them to die). There is a small cemetary with some very old graves. </td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiS1MF-THTvbDJBe384JjRNWdkJQyKZdrC7Y-fBEqejT8hPuaeszTM1Y26cB4hfO1-2TXBnPRwyQvDf7XZzY0bHyFHXWCmOIpdAGmnMGHUP2yUC4vvz07VJXqHydQDkWoS23o7xDKhwBA6/s1600/DSC_0112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiS1MF-THTvbDJBe384JjRNWdkJQyKZdrC7Y-fBEqejT8hPuaeszTM1Y26cB4hfO1-2TXBnPRwyQvDf7XZzY0bHyFHXWCmOIpdAGmnMGHUP2yUC4vvz07VJXqHydQDkWoS23o7xDKhwBA6/s640/DSC_0112.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Andy Hobson, our most excellent tour guide! Thank you, Andy for taking the day to take us around your beautiful island!</td></tr>
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For us the day was not yet over as we had booked to go on a turtle tour that evening at 9pm. A huge conservation effort is going on and scientists studying the green turtles, seabirds, land crabs and working on saving endemic plant species exists on the island today. So at 8.30pm we launched the dingy again and made a night landing at this tough pier. We walked up to the conservation center to wait for our tour. We could not believe our eyes when in walks one of the guides for the night, no other than Simon, who was the official that checked us in on Chagos Island last year July! It turned out that Simon's wife works on Ascension Island and he was visiting and volunteering with the turtle conservation efforts! </div>
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So after a brief catch up with Simon, watching a video on the turtles, we headed down to the beach in the dark to see if we could spot some laying eggs. These particular green turtles are pretty big and actually live and feed off Brazil, but come just to Ascension Island to lay eggs.... Quite a distance just to nest! We could see at least 6 turtles at various stages of making their way up the beach to laying eggs and making their way back to the water. The whole cycle takes a few hours. We found a turtle in the midst of laying her eggs. With the guide's direction we positioned ourselves behind the turtle and with a red light (they can't see) watched as ping-pong sized egg after egg fell from her into a carefully dug nest. Apparently in this stage of laying eggs they go into a trance and are not even aware we were watching. It was truly spectacular to witness this miracle of nature and one we will always remember. We watched as she finished laying her eggs and then covered them up at a painfully slow speed, obviously exhausted from the nights efforts. She rested for a while and then began the long journey of about 100 meters back to the ocean. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitl32OKai8iTOdLBOEFhvmg_bW7b9A7-wLMgyfUVwdQmPj8DNxSKiqfHE27O1sOW8OUGENkw158MOocSHf4u_ON4_16zDFyy-XwX4fx6E37uDHc62SvNczg4PKOg_ouAL2g2TxlUHAQCVq/s1600/IMG20180201214606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitl32OKai8iTOdLBOEFhvmg_bW7b9A7-wLMgyfUVwdQmPj8DNxSKiqfHE27O1sOW8OUGENkw158MOocSHf4u_ON4_16zDFyy-XwX4fx6E37uDHc62SvNczg4PKOg_ouAL2g2TxlUHAQCVq/s640/IMG20180201214606.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the few pictures we got on our cell phone of the turtle laying her eggs</td></tr>
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After saying our goodbyes to Simon we headed back to the boat in awe of what a day we had just experienced. </div>
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The following day we decided to just chill, and the day after on Saturday marked the final voyage of the resupply ship RMS St Helena, that has brought supplies and passengers from Cape Town to St Helena and Ascension Island for many years. I believe it was built in the 1980's and has become obsolete now that an airport has opened on St. Helena and is also too costly to continue running. Ascension has a military airport and receives some items through that as it is primarily a military island and population. With this being a historic day for the RMS St Helena a big celebration was planned on the island which included guided tours of the ship on Saturday before its departure on Sunday. We were lucky enough to secure a tour, and along with the two other sailboats moored with us, Tangled Up and Alma, we enjoyed a trip out to the ship and a guided tour around.... Very cool to see and quite a historic event we were able to be part of. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The RMS St. Helena</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben, Dave and Gaby in the dining room of the RMS St. Helena</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pool on the deck </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby enjoying the deck</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben relaxing in the lounge</td></tr>
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After the tour we headed into the grocery store for one last stock up on some limited fresh produce, as well as topping up with diesel, before heading back to our boat for one last goodnight sleep. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A kind soul delivers our jerry cans of diesel to the stairs for easier loading onto the dinghy</td></tr>
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The following Sunday morning we upped anchor at around 9am, waved goodbye to the island and RMS St Helena, and headed off into the deep blue South Atlantic Ocean. Ahead of us lay a huge distance of over 3,000 miles, which now, thankfully, is behind us!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool Runnings at anchor in Ascension Island</td></tr>
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-39096558859409507242018-03-05T02:10:00.001-04:002018-03-05T02:10:57.505-04:00Looking Back: St. Helena<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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St. Helena...it seems like a lifetime ago that we were there! In fact, it was only about 6 weeks and almost 4,000 miles ago! Having arrived in Grenada yesterday, we now have some internet access, although it is slow!<br />
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I have so many pictures of this unique island (St. Helena) that I wanted to share, and I hope that you can recall the post where I described our time there. If not, I encourage you to read it, <a href="http://svcoolrunnings.blogspot.com/2018/02/st-helena.html" target="_blank">(<span style="color: red;">You can reach it by clicking here</span>)</a>, as there are many historic facts in there, that I have not repeated here. Either way, having read it or not, here is a picture story of our time in St. Helena, "Secret of the South Atlantic":<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9HV3wQXWEg3_Vkv_KzE5K-79tG67apkoQsoqOuMVDAMxgCnsO7GkFtI4g4pElyhHfJRkMhnwJZLPPtXIDkjrInQjGHYvV3PuZapEKIFXNS6SrOgIXZHLv6_VJG0aN2ZDXZPLTrTto4qMF/s1600/1-Jamestown-looking+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9HV3wQXWEg3_Vkv_KzE5K-79tG67apkoQsoqOuMVDAMxgCnsO7GkFtI4g4pElyhHfJRkMhnwJZLPPtXIDkjrInQjGHYvV3PuZapEKIFXNS6SrOgIXZHLv6_VJG0aN2ZDXZPLTrTto4qMF/s640/1-Jamestown-looking+back.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The capital of Jamestown is nestled between two barren mountains</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main Street: Jamestown</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main street has been described as "one of the best examples of unspoilt Georgian architecture anywhere in the world".</td></tr>
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We started our time in St. Helena with a long and arduous walk to find the "Heartshaped Waterfall":<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the long walk out of town...looking for the sign</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eventually we found it!! (it was very small!)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoh6n3TiL82gq1Bh7-3VOGJ7dFSUD7PCvb8demX5gJxNqZec6BJOxisRDnYx70VgLkMJQXYNzfcde1hCFtKsOMQ7zax5-SxL3srBSVoha2W9fOg9SX1eP2ga-XrKaj1O2H4bnz1zTVjzqY/s1600/5-waterfall-walk2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoh6n3TiL82gq1Bh7-3VOGJ7dFSUD7PCvb8demX5gJxNqZec6BJOxisRDnYx70VgLkMJQXYNzfcde1hCFtKsOMQ7zax5-SxL3srBSVoha2W9fOg9SX1eP2ga-XrKaj1O2H4bnz1zTVjzqY/s640/5-waterfall-walk2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There was quite some overgrowth we had to negotiate...this was a tunnel of branches!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTVXynZxBgO23lEUArAfSAEJ3CZKfOzXweIBkSbQlesNp41VKarv61KRYMPjUrMyo_0l37pho3HCXLuy19rqaUis3ocZycytBP2EaZuCLu3ajqabLPX7RKK1I76g4KgAkk6vuR-C6Kt3P6/s400/6-waterfall-walk3.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="266" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still walking...</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTVXynZxBgO23lEUArAfSAEJ3CZKfOzXweIBkSbQlesNp41VKarv61KRYMPjUrMyo_0l37pho3HCXLuy19rqaUis3ocZycytBP2EaZuCLu3ajqabLPX7RKK1I76g4KgAkk6vuR-C6Kt3P6/s1600/6-waterfall-walk3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTVXynZxBgO23lEUArAfSAEJ3CZKfOzXweIBkSbQlesNp41VKarv61KRYMPjUrMyo_0l37pho3HCXLuy19rqaUis3ocZycytBP2EaZuCLu3ajqabLPX7RKK1I76g4KgAkk6vuR-C6Kt3P6/s1600/6-waterfall-walk3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2LB2bnd_sL4Dn_6zvTKj6-YrzRqHV_BnEsIn6GE7yAaa2n3XW02pJrAy0MYadpu3omSD2kG6INSXX2Cn78qpt7QvE0GWLnSzD-SFw58FXSV_jZNz8X-3M1SMoJtKnwy1C6_G90YVHsIKN/s1600/7-waterfall+base.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2LB2bnd_sL4Dn_6zvTKj6-YrzRqHV_BnEsIn6GE7yAaa2n3XW02pJrAy0MYadpu3omSD2kG6INSXX2Cn78qpt7QvE0GWLnSzD-SFw58FXSV_jZNz8X-3M1SMoJtKnwy1C6_G90YVHsIKN/s640/7-waterfall+base.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The kids had gone ahead, and we came around a corner...and there it was! The base of the waterfall...no water flowing, and for the life of us, we couldn't see the heart shape...!!! (Ben and Gaby were using blades of grass to whistle, in case you were wondering...)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvsdPtyPoW8n3xpYRChm4yRXfl6kzgHnbynzF_cLrerLCXa4fenyK_1Ruq4OGxR1zolhlzN3G9-BhVoF8-S6fWrcTqP64tl2EMteiTlpQ0AzVS6-fSLTLOXOsp41m9kSTI54qVtPKR01yY/s1600/8-waterfall-family+pic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvsdPtyPoW8n3xpYRChm4yRXfl6kzgHnbynzF_cLrerLCXa4fenyK_1Ruq4OGxR1zolhlzN3G9-BhVoF8-S6fWrcTqP64tl2EMteiTlpQ0AzVS6-fSLTLOXOsp41m9kSTI54qVtPKR01yY/s640/8-waterfall-family+pic.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Selfie at the base...happy to have found it!!</td></tr>
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<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpFgHgS4lc9an3AbunjH8hF852-rNQgi4lQMpcCu_aKo6ClklybhxqbZCUr1hIr2Pal7OMa2GNBGsYEoQHO33KG3nlLhoPm_hmodWZK8j8uYkwT63nHpPiWs9fHiClK71dn6hYXMg3Jc6q/s1600/9-waterfall-walk+back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpFgHgS4lc9an3AbunjH8hF852-rNQgi4lQMpcCu_aKo6ClklybhxqbZCUr1hIr2Pal7OMa2GNBGsYEoQHO33KG3nlLhoPm_hmodWZK8j8uYkwT63nHpPiWs9fHiClK71dn6hYXMg3Jc6q/s640/9-waterfall-walk+back.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The long walk back</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6A82eBDBwRTMQadmPoSV9unJud6zAI8CnwBXMFQEzoCHIJGwSbj6w9VMZYb5fUNbkTW5bl4Ikwp14Tvhy8RUElq9zKzoB01q2slt8qVcTMIFuFtVvJLzo_G9333tRrte15-uDVA1wg8fa/s1600/10-waterfall-whole.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6A82eBDBwRTMQadmPoSV9unJud6zAI8CnwBXMFQEzoCHIJGwSbj6w9VMZYb5fUNbkTW5bl4Ikwp14Tvhy8RUElq9zKzoB01q2slt8qVcTMIFuFtVvJLzo_G9333tRrte15-uDVA1wg8fa/s640/10-waterfall-whole.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"The Falls are best viewed from the road", we found out later...!!! Can you see the heart shape now?! (no water flowing, however)</td></tr>
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<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinV7-zhOXEyVrB4iGXVXha0dwVRzPk4nbPVua4NL9aw3zarK7uzcGnIcNzhKtc6F2VOvILSCEta9gF3_eVOWgTuZ6epgU6ENg8x7QwSL73brDIlQv4xwHA5qgp6IGNaHrV3hCS0HnJAFYS/s1600/11-the+run.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinV7-zhOXEyVrB4iGXVXha0dwVRzPk4nbPVua4NL9aw3zarK7uzcGnIcNzhKtc6F2VOvILSCEta9gF3_eVOWgTuZ6epgU6ENg8x7QwSL73brDIlQv4xwHA5qgp6IGNaHrV3hCS0HnJAFYS/s640/11-the+run.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way back into town, we walked along "The Run", a waterway that runs from, believe it or not, the Heart Shaped waterfall, right down into the sea. It used to bring fresh water into the town of Jamestown. It still functions as a runoff, but now also just serves as an alternative route to getting into town, instead of walking along the road. St. Helena suffered a drought in 2016/17, so there was still not a lot of water flowing in The Run</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Z2TrXmUFOsFXRY0oOvnkxfms_ioBslwc97g_nc3DwCP4umzpEACcbd_kb2oqOpwlfw9ZDnExf2093W12FCOGMWme4T6KlDBC5HUn5KZCBWQgNVucPlcjMzqcrM4qH0Qw_sW4bM4ToQb5/s1600/12-run-flowers.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Z2TrXmUFOsFXRY0oOvnkxfms_ioBslwc97g_nc3DwCP4umzpEACcbd_kb2oqOpwlfw9ZDnExf2093W12FCOGMWme4T6KlDBC5HUn5KZCBWQgNVucPlcjMzqcrM4qH0Qw_sW4bM4ToQb5/s640/12-run-flowers.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby smelling the flowers along the Run</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLtOHvoaq4gjQntoz7f3IyU1uK9tkTe4lUNYwRauHs-vWBaAPeT3xleofU6uK9GVJ9B8ENNfc6lVlDJ6tytT2vDB5bAwjK5oPnAvlftmRL5efoZYY0KMzEpRruKx4aJbhwpOfEqe4BO45p/s1600/13-St+Helena-flowers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLtOHvoaq4gjQntoz7f3IyU1uK9tkTe4lUNYwRauHs-vWBaAPeT3xleofU6uK9GVJ9B8ENNfc6lVlDJ6tytT2vDB5bAwjK5oPnAvlftmRL5efoZYY0KMzEpRruKx4aJbhwpOfEqe4BO45p/s640/13-St+Helena-flowers.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another beautiful burst of color against a stark mountain side</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
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<div>
The following day, we did a short tour of the island with a tour guide, Robert Peters:</div>
<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggME9sMoJ52AwFKTQ4KfviRA-nvxA_AYmEzEyhEHZ3QH1uvyuMiEBKb4IlaZM03FLpr3DNR2KE2GznB6m0w4XaOwJ8J_r72P3zpCMFF-pNSz65u61Kwfcb4gsyCwpB0GePop0l-h2E_fl3/s1600/14-st+helena.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggME9sMoJ52AwFKTQ4KfviRA-nvxA_AYmEzEyhEHZ3QH1uvyuMiEBKb4IlaZM03FLpr3DNR2KE2GznB6m0w4XaOwJ8J_r72P3zpCMFF-pNSz65u61Kwfcb4gsyCwpB0GePop0l-h2E_fl3/s640/14-st+helena.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down onto Jamestown</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNufdwJmsfEGPrDnl8Kp6wst07SsDW4zsrHPtvkjgpU5od_9gD5YoVAYFYHk139DoAt-XyoIh1FlMVorChfWwPo7LcNv7vUEGRZ5KhHO5w_MGLi9B4M9RkASgDZECA_Ez1vh2NoN5qcBhX/s1600/15-Tour-st+mathews.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNufdwJmsfEGPrDnl8Kp6wst07SsDW4zsrHPtvkjgpU5od_9gD5YoVAYFYHk139DoAt-XyoIh1FlMVorChfWwPo7LcNv7vUEGRZ5KhHO5w_MGLi9B4M9RkASgDZECA_Ez1vh2NoN5qcBhX/s640/15-Tour-st+mathews.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We saw MANY churches on St. Helena! There were 4 or 5 in Jamestown alone. This beautiful, old church is St. Mathews, and was just at the turnoff to Longwood (where Napoleon lived).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKuDT27T-wVq9cOa5-y_bNiQrzaHTd2I_o_HZdoh-Uipxehiko-GWmAHPU2iDcLpt0geVrsl-i02Nxro0mLBR8b-eJkTVuDFv3lO8HIy_xIt3NEOCy_jlIOLmB99hCYR_siXbEMt9n-Cgo/s1600/16-Tour-boer+camp+sign.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKuDT27T-wVq9cOa5-y_bNiQrzaHTd2I_o_HZdoh-Uipxehiko-GWmAHPU2iDcLpt0geVrsl-i02Nxro0mLBR8b-eJkTVuDFv3lO8HIy_xIt3NEOCy_jlIOLmB99hCYR_siXbEMt9n-Cgo/s640/16-Tour-boer+camp+sign.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were many Boer prisoner of war sites: with 6,000 prisoners, there were 2 camp sites on the island and a cemetary</td></tr>
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<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6262sLEF97DieuWpVULobjmaypMuZrUNXfVgj16BpDELNu2Zjdlij2NHQ3Tbr2z4hyphenhyphenpd0RcK8S5Gz5MetzsbxkE6FW_uzBlLauwOkeHY1zqUzmyQYV08voA5YgQa6Nt-tda3m-tniECAg/s1600/17-tour-Boer+camp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6262sLEF97DieuWpVULobjmaypMuZrUNXfVgj16BpDELNu2Zjdlij2NHQ3Tbr2z4hyphenhyphenpd0RcK8S5Gz5MetzsbxkE6FW_uzBlLauwOkeHY1zqUzmyQYV08voA5YgQa6Nt-tda3m-tniECAg/s640/17-tour-Boer+camp.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The site of the Boer prisoner camp. The fields were covered with white tents, homes to thousands of prisoners. In their place now stand big, white wind generators</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVkn9ZtQI__XGV9JrEC02cyywbcR0FbtyRusKp5GefOhArEXynvIJwyHZlh4IdXeN7UzhrZx39MbTjzt2xpqT49-vYaKJts8Ousnmz0Fw_LthgSI7_Z_iUsJPZRMcmKrShzm4vDKwBzbeK/s1600/20-tour-2nd+boer+camp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVkn9ZtQI__XGV9JrEC02cyywbcR0FbtyRusKp5GefOhArEXynvIJwyHZlh4IdXeN7UzhrZx39MbTjzt2xpqT49-vYaKJts8Ousnmz0Fw_LthgSI7_Z_iUsJPZRMcmKrShzm4vDKwBzbeK/s640/20-tour-2nd+boer+camp.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The site of the second boer prisoner camp. Now beautiful green fields with grazing cows...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZAdu1gBBclWQsSaxAoG54Vw0iedmEB0TAz4c-C7iIS2zKerqNWlFw-gia2Q0dvsy0jr_dUkE9BcSSO-pFQ28WhTtqfY2Nr3HNGp-J_cNZgsVayiDqI0MMp5Yem529KrPTqpnZwGZdvYM/s1600/55-boer+cemetry.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZAdu1gBBclWQsSaxAoG54Vw0iedmEB0TAz4c-C7iIS2zKerqNWlFw-gia2Q0dvsy0jr_dUkE9BcSSO-pFQ28WhTtqfY2Nr3HNGp-J_cNZgsVayiDqI0MMp5Yem529KrPTqpnZwGZdvYM/s640/55-boer+cemetry.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Boer cemetary: hundreds of unmarked graves on a hillside. They just had numbers on them. The memorial in the foreground was erected at a later date in memory of those who died on the island during their imprisonment</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwAyqFx-lCcqcOueGQgsj185lreW_7HPVq70vwAEAM1761EEEJBmwgwIoCWpW0Sl3VJeIYTWFcmWC86rFypJRXLItec8IDeNu5jllPX5jqhVIvCYC4YOkII6mx5ELJgmpCZtiIEhpdnRPr/s1600/18-Tour-contrast.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwAyqFx-lCcqcOueGQgsj185lreW_7HPVq70vwAEAM1761EEEJBmwgwIoCWpW0Sl3VJeIYTWFcmWC86rFypJRXLItec8IDeNu5jllPX5jqhVIvCYC4YOkII6mx5ELJgmpCZtiIEhpdnRPr/s640/18-Tour-contrast.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An island of contrasts: The lush, green interior with the rugged, barren mountains in the background, and the vast Atlantic Ocean beyond</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs43rSb3GqXcK4XUJn2OkJ7lzx3kyGW9fq8KQA-BF0l9RyzQhhJkI5L6jTbtQAmnpncm-d2ameVIqqXeaZPDjb9-_Ydx2iTIsTIqMLrMsgvuHd01BX8q8LZ0U5sM0zEDRFqmWONFd7aA70/s1600/21-st+pauls+catherdral.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs43rSb3GqXcK4XUJn2OkJ7lzx3kyGW9fq8KQA-BF0l9RyzQhhJkI5L6jTbtQAmnpncm-d2ameVIqqXeaZPDjb9-_Ydx2iTIsTIqMLrMsgvuHd01BX8q8LZ0U5sM0zEDRFqmWONFd7aA70/s640/21-st+pauls+catherdral.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another old church: St. Paul's Cathedral, an Anglican church. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vbnVRRUXBRKS9YYoWXI2OWuG1apQsTEZgGS9DbjEqeWgO6jGw08m6UXwxrh50s0zsYhZ8gH8KQ-HmLgGkSNOJA03FCZRXavEKXL45M4xofuhECkWJQWISrrphpDBF08kmozXo_KPeheE/s1600/22-governors+house.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vbnVRRUXBRKS9YYoWXI2OWuG1apQsTEZgGS9DbjEqeWgO6jGw08m6UXwxrh50s0zsYhZ8gH8KQ-HmLgGkSNOJA03FCZRXavEKXL45M4xofuhECkWJQWISrrphpDBF08kmozXo_KPeheE/s640/22-governors+house.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Governor's House. This is also the home of Jonathan, a giant Seychelles Tortoise, who is believed to be one of the oldest in the world, at the age of around 182...! He was believed to have been brought to the island in 1882, and was already 50 years old at the time! We saw him in the garden, but he was quite far away (not a blog worthy picture!)<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0FI5bXV_GSKCv7bLCujoT_7IAm0SqVYv4WjWUYDn7L9JKFgaFKgjmdu7ykqKpBKJY1Mco7avKgBAwxhugs21uNaH19N6zdnpgjMuVztDbuHDovkmOXZIU1ZFUvYD7AO5eQ6UYF8hU_3-Z/s1600/23-high+knoll+fort.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0FI5bXV_GSKCv7bLCujoT_7IAm0SqVYv4WjWUYDn7L9JKFgaFKgjmdu7ykqKpBKJY1Mco7avKgBAwxhugs21uNaH19N6zdnpgjMuVztDbuHDovkmOXZIU1ZFUvYD7AO5eQ6UYF8hU_3-Z/s640/23-high+knoll+fort.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Next up was High Knoll Fort. It is perched some 584 meters / 1,916 ft above sea level on the edge of a cliff , overlooking Jamestown. The current fort was built by the Royal Engineers in 1874, but this structure incorporated an earlier fort on the site built in around 1790 </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiip_px4tSmgER_UkaI0JrKiWvQ2rU8eu73acsBchry9PvGpNWuYZ0TfOMWrD5kjdjpDZr9vyx3witKBoFu3EDPdrLvgeh9u9c6yunVzKhVPICJmrGyv0Q-7Qb9Lald7ExwRR1yOn2YyusP/s1600/24-high+knoll+fort.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiip_px4tSmgER_UkaI0JrKiWvQ2rU8eu73acsBchry9PvGpNWuYZ0TfOMWrD5kjdjpDZr9vyx3witKBoFu3EDPdrLvgeh9u9c6yunVzKhVPICJmrGyv0Q-7Qb9Lald7ExwRR1yOn2YyusP/s640/24-high+knoll+fort.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby with part of the fort in the background</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAdK7usP52cFiqSxNmgqi5Z7D-YU5w0hjGZ5BF726jlDrz2P0tRjtjXLnZAamHj3aJe6CSeLFpfDkdSeruUSdooBn2QvaTRhYva2wBZpaR6k21sz8WTX8lZx8kT_p-r5H0qqkgNKN-tjBt/s1600/25-High+knoll+fort.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAdK7usP52cFiqSxNmgqi5Z7D-YU5w0hjGZ5BF726jlDrz2P0tRjtjXLnZAamHj3aJe6CSeLFpfDkdSeruUSdooBn2QvaTRhYva2wBZpaR6k21sz8WTX8lZx8kT_p-r5H0qqkgNKN-tjBt/s640/25-High+knoll+fort.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down to the inside of the fort</td></tr>
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<br />Down the road from High Knoll Fort, is the settlement of Half-Tree Hollow. Half-Tree Hollow is situated at the top of the mountain. Jamestown is in the valley below. Connecting the two are 699 steps called "Jacob's Ladder", or, alternatively, a long windy road for the cars!<div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYieyzLG_ZFIyrmXgvmTCb6Wa1uASQI89kUwSMMFGMVBtsJt0yLsaAoAcBpl-0o2O-6BEQL6znJc_N3Aqq3e0Ph8xoFBdpH1wKAkD1hiG6FPOy12KU3F24jlnQ3h3Z6XCh3_LxkTAJdPJ/s1600/27a-Jamestown.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYieyzLG_ZFIyrmXgvmTCb6Wa1uASQI89kUwSMMFGMVBtsJt0yLsaAoAcBpl-0o2O-6BEQL6znJc_N3Aqq3e0Ph8xoFBdpH1wKAkD1hiG6FPOy12KU3F24jlnQ3h3Z6XCh3_LxkTAJdPJ/s640/27a-Jamestown.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down at Jamestown from Half-Tree Hollow. The road can be seen etched into the mountain side, snaking its way down</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaeAz2p0LTjW9F2uag7ttT0BxUNSunp8DhqAoq_aGiJirxMWYkSOuIiTwa1O9BxUiTEil964F1PUZsySTwIxTrEKwIyX60iWcbiusGHT7n37f386HO0CA0n4iNLkfqx5HuJavYuCoPXkZb/s1600/26-Jacobs+ladder-top.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaeAz2p0LTjW9F2uag7ttT0BxUNSunp8DhqAoq_aGiJirxMWYkSOuIiTwa1O9BxUiTEil964F1PUZsySTwIxTrEKwIyX60iWcbiusGHT7n37f386HO0CA0n4iNLkfqx5HuJavYuCoPXkZb/s640/26-Jacobs+ladder-top.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jacob's Ladder looking down into Jamestown...! The square, white structure is the castle, and the church, pictured below, can be seen on the right of the picture</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYdxVbB4VG41njm0ZEAEZ3NkjdI9xO0qIha864fqzyOWRM48BVrUnNZ1LuMe4RwIfouYSXme_eLqpSLMqCd9FSD5_kZsigxfkYPHJdYUSGtdHBPVyVT0HzRpDuRTxn8rgkAp540yF1o_li/s1600/27-church+Jamestown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYdxVbB4VG41njm0ZEAEZ3NkjdI9xO0qIha864fqzyOWRM48BVrUnNZ1LuMe4RwIfouYSXme_eLqpSLMqCd9FSD5_kZsigxfkYPHJdYUSGtdHBPVyVT0HzRpDuRTxn8rgkAp540yF1o_li/s640/27-church+Jamestown.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The church square at bottom of Jamestown. The castle is on the left of the picture, Jacob's Ladder (not pictured), on the right. Main street straight ahead!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr_1C3NJMia0Kt_5joK-HVyH6BeHIYZJqxTj94_RbaI5V96cKxJi_iod7PAHrANEJSRj4buCqyQavPvaNnDApOtMdOjbMiFt8YovyoFb4ff7Y8by0pm1xEsJJdmTUyu43Tf_qqkF6qAPFs/s1600/28-castle+gardens.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr_1C3NJMia0Kt_5joK-HVyH6BeHIYZJqxTj94_RbaI5V96cKxJi_iod7PAHrANEJSRj4buCqyQavPvaNnDApOtMdOjbMiFt8YovyoFb4ff7Y8by0pm1xEsJJdmTUyu43Tf_qqkF6qAPFs/s640/28-castle+gardens.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castle gardens, with "Anne's Place", a coffee shop/restaurant, a favorite of cruisers (possibly because it has a wifi hotspot?) in the building behind</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-iV4ZJjz4PvB73FofHsHzrulQiaX0S4A9YSrHvu0aLxm5Et2xuYqo6Bpc7QtAjbIo_IuamgY-OkGq81e0AgCP55J9XyigYViHwjWqI_OdoYH4d9OFnFlxx-i0Fy6jEaxRW84CdeSPzdB/s1600/29-castle+gardens2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-iV4ZJjz4PvB73FofHsHzrulQiaX0S4A9YSrHvu0aLxm5Et2xuYqo6Bpc7QtAjbIo_IuamgY-OkGq81e0AgCP55J9XyigYViHwjWqI_OdoYH4d9OFnFlxx-i0Fy6jEaxRW84CdeSPzdB/s640/29-castle+gardens2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old cannon in the Castle gardens</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo0zT1_oUfyrqgEGG9IPAjTxcRPICsKIPlfgUpEtOAot7a3IQIaj-PExzq5Po4gpAj_0tJ9RsxdrE71gHY7nKIp8NwdCLsDo8t1XVz0UW9Rvb7IxdmPb_JMHKPN4ao75ZfjhUcB7axw6To/s1600/30-castle+entrance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo0zT1_oUfyrqgEGG9IPAjTxcRPICsKIPlfgUpEtOAot7a3IQIaj-PExzq5Po4gpAj_0tJ9RsxdrE71gHY7nKIp8NwdCLsDo8t1XVz0UW9Rvb7IxdmPb_JMHKPN4ao75ZfjhUcB7axw6To/s640/30-castle+entrance.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castle entrance. Many of the government offices are now housed in the castle</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqgVVVBlmX40D2Z5Go2U80UKx2uNWe7HqBqQbTRMxMvtMIJ49kz6cIwRDYafsZmcfQ3bjqNm4FwVcl-lNfoVDWbUpWBuUeoStyNGf65lz_bdi2VDMKqiC6ShAdkE1iOSt_Fo1vcYxeYMPk/s1600/31-archway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqgVVVBlmX40D2Z5Go2U80UKx2uNWe7HqBqQbTRMxMvtMIJ49kz6cIwRDYafsZmcfQ3bjqNm4FwVcl-lNfoVDWbUpWBuUeoStyNGf65lz_bdi2VDMKqiC6ShAdkE1iOSt_Fo1vcYxeYMPk/s640/31-archway.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Arch is the entrance to Jamestown.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig5ezExT3C7W866BEN66Gu3pjjqesmBNL1hJON2EZ-UrMaDpSi2dcFYDJawSGlcKpWjfNn2QDdJ-k4sdUKHHFxCREldOxjAewXnjteRSWO2n5ZEXwOK_Y59IL-qsJUf2mKemGYS6RoFltF/s1600/32-archway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig5ezExT3C7W866BEN66Gu3pjjqesmBNL1hJON2EZ-UrMaDpSi2dcFYDJawSGlcKpWjfNn2QDdJ-k4sdUKHHFxCREldOxjAewXnjteRSWO2n5ZEXwOK_Y59IL-qsJUf2mKemGYS6RoFltF/s640/32-archway.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was build in 1832, and there is a flood mark showing the water level of a flood in 1878</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD66OV3vE2AwHu9Rhdj1B9ESjMnv4T42Xx6T-aDX_3se7nkWS_7XYW7q9FzfyPg8lT8NuKzjAUjw5264qB2dKv9SSj3Pr2pxtHc3CgPNGhWByoRsZfUjeigKvtW0b-aR7mm3P8U3I2gf6P/s1600/33-prison.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD66OV3vE2AwHu9Rhdj1B9ESjMnv4T42Xx6T-aDX_3se7nkWS_7XYW7q9FzfyPg8lT8NuKzjAUjw5264qB2dKv9SSj3Pr2pxtHc3CgPNGhWByoRsZfUjeigKvtW0b-aR7mm3P8U3I2gf6P/s640/33-prison.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jail cell...interestingly, the Immigration office is through the black door on the right. Convenient?! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOC5nrSVDCHSLJ2Nay-4VthkUOjJilEz3W3zEk5kTUJLnIDu68C0SLLvOGWzsPoMyPtFnHE-Bu6q5nw21E1-ZCMpI60tJii8AeSeJNFuxnpLIVrVelwJa9wtsEmIt5f0oVZo5LkWpVh1VB/s1600/42-jamestown+street.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOC5nrSVDCHSLJ2Nay-4VthkUOjJilEz3W3zEk5kTUJLnIDu68C0SLLvOGWzsPoMyPtFnHE-Bu6q5nw21E1-ZCMpI60tJii8AeSeJNFuxnpLIVrVelwJa9wtsEmIt5f0oVZo5LkWpVh1VB/s640/42-jamestown+street.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jamestown Main street. If you look carefully, you can see the Arch at the end of the road!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilY2TriCGy-F4I3n6jOIEl3asVO39D15UbRGJym9ZZzGL5rK_rL_aev3lgXDZZvwYeRC49Tn3WA408pYXXwXsNAYw4kUEd2nSn6mRhyphenhyphenwAX7ymupOC0Rh34RgzXSfhtUYRSZHK6h_7_CW3s/s1600/34-storefront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilY2TriCGy-F4I3n6jOIEl3asVO39D15UbRGJym9ZZzGL5rK_rL_aev3lgXDZZvwYeRC49Tn3WA408pYXXwXsNAYw4kUEd2nSn6mRhyphenhyphenwAX7ymupOC0Rh34RgzXSfhtUYRSZHK6h_7_CW3s/s640/34-storefront.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Main Street storefront</td></tr>
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Gaby and I went for a walk along "Munden's", on the opposite side cliff to Jacob's Ladder. It provided great views of Jamestown and of the anchorage.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgND7VObBpnFCGUOLhFfkEYmRtcNOZGlkvkdZ9HUx0xF10TV3luAOwMqKbMpVCHNJyjLkE1m64jdhn9nuOYsLYDlWH16cBtNhVi5Btf8zd-ubfk79Mn79vtHnofeoyMJjb4BHbmlI28OH_s/s1600/35-mundens.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgND7VObBpnFCGUOLhFfkEYmRtcNOZGlkvkdZ9HUx0xF10TV3luAOwMqKbMpVCHNJyjLkE1m64jdhn9nuOYsLYDlWH16cBtNhVi5Btf8zd-ubfk79Mn79vtHnofeoyMJjb4BHbmlI28OH_s/s640/35-mundens.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby on the Munden's path</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH-vfkQOkK23cQ2MPYSuKXK1Td4fbzOmamehWu4W6jyiowekQbtJNqR20bN1F_BcVSzaCO4jF8pFzjcatHSOVa1k48MpnaQO3rfoeCyj10Rdg5S4fd92_55ybQ76kO7Xa-qDpdqbJ-jRdn/s1600/36a-jamestown.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH-vfkQOkK23cQ2MPYSuKXK1Td4fbzOmamehWu4W6jyiowekQbtJNqR20bN1F_BcVSzaCO4jF8pFzjcatHSOVa1k48MpnaQO3rfoeCyj10Rdg5S4fd92_55ybQ76kO7Xa-qDpdqbJ-jRdn/s640/36a-jamestown.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A look back onto Jamestown from the opposite side. The straight line on the opposite cliff is Jacob's Ladder. The castle and the church are also clearly visible. You'll know Jamestown like the back of your hand by the time I'm finished with this post!!!<br /><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ70CAAy50EgKQNFgfkacHzE1JaOAU2SdQAwSiXTA6jlBaqdzDvVmB-Md6Y1qU0xObcaUtGAswPMnSQ-6V_XwBHtmROBPgqxmUN7_0ZQzw0IkHwE_3FIxikf7r-UVnTfhKBfuJkMkEPQIK/s1600/Inked36-Mundens+walk+view+of+anchorage_LI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ70CAAy50EgKQNFgfkacHzE1JaOAU2SdQAwSiXTA6jlBaqdzDvVmB-Md6Y1qU0xObcaUtGAswPMnSQ-6V_XwBHtmROBPgqxmUN7_0ZQzw0IkHwE_3FIxikf7r-UVnTfhKBfuJkMkEPQIK/s640/Inked36-Mundens+walk+view+of+anchorage_LI.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the anchorage. The local fishing boats are moored closer to town. The visiting yachts are on mooring balls a little further away. I've circled Cool Runnings in red!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Gabs and I then decided to also climb Jacob's Ladder. If you recall from the St. Helena post, Benjamin fell quite ill, and he was already not feeling well at this time. As Dave stayed with Benjamin, it was unfortunately just Gaby and I who climbed the 699 steps of Jacob's Ladder!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin7bDZmxXQK5FMkU57KjXcGUPMRs6qL8wtFkGBWroCvlq0rXC3zw-yv2fUkA0kE7y1pvd84r_n0DSzQbLhvbHGfgVU0nL6IA_HO7wr6iH7-BPvkOOfu9yuC53kEaDhCYFOXsVt3rjqdOtr/s1600/37-jacobs+ladder+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin7bDZmxXQK5FMkU57KjXcGUPMRs6qL8wtFkGBWroCvlq0rXC3zw-yv2fUkA0kE7y1pvd84r_n0DSzQbLhvbHGfgVU0nL6IA_HO7wr6iH7-BPvkOOfu9yuC53kEaDhCYFOXsVt3rjqdOtr/s400/37-jacobs+ladder+up.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A ladder into the sky...it was used in the 1800's as a pulley system to haul items to Half-Tree Hollow at the top</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijSudnEn_IyUruImgICgriwgDf4RXmiXjnstw2B4hiiINccvz8HNDlEKfnUpibDRjO0hPBQ0GUzNy9NgQ9kyMtwVHfd2LQzBmaTCXYvq_ht-6caTt_B3P3Ywn4PXVUl1kZ0gZwa3gWkHd7/s1600/38-Jacobs+Ladder+sign.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijSudnEn_IyUruImgICgriwgDf4RXmiXjnstw2B4hiiINccvz8HNDlEKfnUpibDRjO0hPBQ0GUzNy9NgQ9kyMtwVHfd2LQzBmaTCXYvq_ht-6caTt_B3P3Ywn4PXVUl1kZ0gZwa3gWkHd7/s640/38-Jacobs+Ladder+sign.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just so you know I'm not making it up!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgcmvy4y7sbal-t99dWFJEzR803wVxdtiLQhc_xnAZVvaPyFTqbthHyOV3MXpUQEVYsnuZQdM4PG0Qqz40ETYZmOXt0LoonAbIj6weFKzUBF5PszCaNa6ohSu2P3d11qNStF-_Q25j3h2o/s1600/39-Jacobs+ladder+-+mm+and+gab+at+top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgcmvy4y7sbal-t99dWFJEzR803wVxdtiLQhc_xnAZVvaPyFTqbthHyOV3MXpUQEVYsnuZQdM4PG0Qqz40ETYZmOXt0LoonAbIj6weFKzUBF5PszCaNa6ohSu2P3d11qNStF-_Q25j3h2o/s640/39-Jacobs+ladder+-+mm+and+gab+at+top.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Selfie at the top...comtemplating the thought of having to now go down</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-kTrOYqb-NV5XVV_CMLFvzxuxLnXLqSoCKWDEv3hoHyWOnVh0YIXWPgAUWK81Cikb2yQp6bgXRazDQGek0dgHu5GUPIP0Psxi1zxaldp8wDVjKFUHWd6TfD6TvDIV4Sf1SYMt2Y0PIvl/s1600/40-Jacobs+ladder+view+from+top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-kTrOYqb-NV5XVV_CMLFvzxuxLnXLqSoCKWDEv3hoHyWOnVh0YIXWPgAUWK81Cikb2yQp6bgXRazDQGek0dgHu5GUPIP0Psxi1zxaldp8wDVjKFUHWd6TfD6TvDIV4Sf1SYMt2Y0PIvl/s640/40-Jacobs+ladder+view+from+top.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the anchorage from the top</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWySnznTYZHzrTHHkFL_L97neJzPm9lHl0wRlt-wQjdjYKRe-jxooqcXWw6K8bLWegCnBQ_7UVZQGIL4gpde52IHU2OGIKuMciVtPtbuhuJ-bqM1vWcAO-5NMU37gToSvLzb-IAK6SYWS/s1600/41-Jacobs+ladder.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWySnznTYZHzrTHHkFL_L97neJzPm9lHl0wRlt-wQjdjYKRe-jxooqcXWw6K8bLWegCnBQ_7UVZQGIL4gpde52IHU2OGIKuMciVtPtbuhuJ-bqM1vWcAO-5NMU37gToSvLzb-IAK6SYWS/s640/41-Jacobs+ladder.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And then we had to go back down!</td></tr>
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On the Monday, Dave managed to rent a car, and we spent the day touring the island one more time, taking in the sights we didn't see the first time around, primarily the Napoleonic sights.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi92j5TmitwsAy4hP1vP6esbhQP1P6VWUB_QcOP0h27NuDo8qJlbe_2_Tdvk35ZJumNtGvcYvN7ThZH4zbyKPwmZ8IwGcz1W7YoP1wWbzyfPyl8iHNI7pCcxrNt_NmYx8JY9EOl3o3o5vyz/s1600/47-napoleon+tomb+sign1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi92j5TmitwsAy4hP1vP6esbhQP1P6VWUB_QcOP0h27NuDo8qJlbe_2_Tdvk35ZJumNtGvcYvN7ThZH4zbyKPwmZ8IwGcz1W7YoP1wWbzyfPyl8iHNI7pCcxrNt_NmYx8JY9EOl3o3o5vyz/s400/47-napoleon+tomb+sign1.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby at the sign post</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbLy0Ron3mLgDsvF2Bg8mDUjQZEY70_8AQkHb3Gb364EsKp3A9Du_NnOlKx7Pyw_KqPtbqJUn0MIhnMulcxryG2vxU2gjN5DeLWSrnstSqyryRtZQrUD2Yj-qG734VLUQ73O6ZUChULsWY/s1600/48-Napoleon+tomb+sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbLy0Ron3mLgDsvF2Bg8mDUjQZEY70_8AQkHb3Gb364EsKp3A9Du_NnOlKx7Pyw_KqPtbqJUn0MIhnMulcxryG2vxU2gjN5DeLWSrnstSqyryRtZQrUD2Yj-qG734VLUQ73O6ZUChULsWY/s640/48-Napoleon+tomb+sign.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was quite a walk into the Sane Valley to get to the Tomb</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkRo0osmsDRFt7n2MZd7O0eqp4fOn0SHox2TPGCAx4j_PBIzesTRmgoARjF3Qh-IIPuqaobeSbWQ7zpLxXE53NeYyx03jXmrvtbshQ74Wt0fpiK8bXYy75zPNhc2sJX_dZNVE3LjAHVPCR/s1600/49-Napoleon+tomb+sign2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkRo0osmsDRFt7n2MZd7O0eqp4fOn0SHox2TPGCAx4j_PBIzesTRmgoARjF3Qh-IIPuqaobeSbWQ7zpLxXE53NeYyx03jXmrvtbshQ74Wt0fpiK8bXYy75zPNhc2sJX_dZNVE3LjAHVPCR/s640/49-Napoleon+tomb+sign2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful flowers and trees lined the path to the viewing point</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDn7fB_ZXSUyPEwOfN1gldrmFvwNSrWWAFjD4ZvP-kAYm7BuugrFW9BKSdXaA6SBvx9ewlnqTptbwTqTfTt-BPvYJLyLyebp7KCgdfDqQvyb6uxcbAZk02QFdUgSAWYdmI5_L8x3ZmNHlV/s1600/49a-tomb.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDn7fB_ZXSUyPEwOfN1gldrmFvwNSrWWAFjD4ZvP-kAYm7BuugrFW9BKSdXaA6SBvx9ewlnqTptbwTqTfTt-BPvYJLyLyebp7KCgdfDqQvyb6uxcbAZk02QFdUgSAWYdmI5_L8x3ZmNHlV/s640/49a-tomb.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There it was: Napoleon's Tomb</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihvGzSJMoterQYdUyPK9C_OEiy1jtyrs-BX4QKm1rwxGc9mtMg4VnRt1i155MlwGd-t59mi4pE7JcJs30KwFOlrOZmzlBtImimFB3yyOr7HOqroFdhle2PDXFugxRdrfxj1d0ffZ_DFi-i/s1600/50-longwood.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihvGzSJMoterQYdUyPK9C_OEiy1jtyrs-BX4QKm1rwxGc9mtMg4VnRt1i155MlwGd-t59mi4pE7JcJs30KwFOlrOZmzlBtImimFB3yyOr7HOqroFdhle2PDXFugxRdrfxj1d0ffZ_DFi-i/s640/50-longwood.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We then drove to Longwood, and viewed Longwood House, where Napoleon lived while in exile on St. Helena</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPuLiV1baomjN-JITkIh95A5ZDwUO0N84CULpAV2SpF4M3JiuDenNIeNb8rX2xoqMmdlQUO-fOIuABF_a8YMGxUdltlP5u2pMwueWHrkt2qpKC8OSfOK3fOsWtnY5Jyhn73wwSYg3WpfQ/s1600/50-Napoleon-Longwood-flowers-garden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPuLiV1baomjN-JITkIh95A5ZDwUO0N84CULpAV2SpF4M3JiuDenNIeNb8rX2xoqMmdlQUO-fOIuABF_a8YMGxUdltlP5u2pMwueWHrkt2qpKC8OSfOK3fOsWtnY5Jyhn73wwSYg3WpfQ/s640/50-Napoleon-Longwood-flowers-garden.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The grounds had beautiful gardens!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnnSYtnw6WM4PZjS34NQGevLAfKIEQ6mlp9GyeorHrECbg0y_32GLFxhQ5vXms9jeeUork9MiXYAl_LlNQ1VmWdsWRD-J0X6wms8NN0Uda8kpOeIFLugIi6XDXc2UDkfGPG9S2VvJrKJM8/s1600/51-longwood.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnnSYtnw6WM4PZjS34NQGevLAfKIEQ6mlp9GyeorHrECbg0y_32GLFxhQ5vXms9jeeUork9MiXYAl_LlNQ1VmWdsWRD-J0X6wms8NN0Uda8kpOeIFLugIi6XDXc2UDkfGPG9S2VvJrKJM8/s640/51-longwood.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben and Gaby with Longwood in the background</td></tr>
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We also went to look at the controversial new airport:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEe8WFLDaFwbIXY0sOqatVB1mHUM7FVKgAzddNa4clBeb7X58vr0Mj_mdNjfGEjjOV55ac837fmhG3VJb6rbqrATfDJE7nbs01WQYYi-txetz3oyUD38TF7Qg5VJjjY-FlwxZOatlHyo2u/s1600/52a-runway.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEe8WFLDaFwbIXY0sOqatVB1mHUM7FVKgAzddNa4clBeb7X58vr0Mj_mdNjfGEjjOV55ac837fmhG3VJb6rbqrATfDJE7nbs01WQYYi-txetz3oyUD38TF7Qg5VJjjY-FlwxZOatlHyo2u/s640/52a-runway.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The runway on a cliff</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSP6zChurYcKO_PEYJP4GEDFhDjH1sClAKZqTw7kGFkD62zerWPPer_dg2tm66NZS0wjwbIVQqKytXHCgPV83ycznZhOegKHRMPfZsEQLsG_z5A2xk9QrNoJ94r8uqKk9kGwwPEz3sAKM/s1600/52-airport.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSP6zChurYcKO_PEYJP4GEDFhDjH1sClAKZqTw7kGFkD62zerWPPer_dg2tm66NZS0wjwbIVQqKytXHCgPV83ycznZhOegKHRMPfZsEQLsG_z5A2xk9QrNoJ94r8uqKk9kGwwPEz3sAKM/s640/52-airport.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A beautiful new airport building that currently opens only once a week</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIhVe4jzXhLgnzjbmSgxLFP56FDv02dv62a94QPBu4Gm1jxfK_YZFb70xaUXbBp0lPpkz6Mwf0O8Qao5TASnHAM_L7Kh13ZbHNWa1N5KrfxSeVI758_N-_985Uxq0Gg9c2GHN2ah-hoBLW/s1600/53-amazing+colors.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIhVe4jzXhLgnzjbmSgxLFP56FDv02dv62a94QPBu4Gm1jxfK_YZFb70xaUXbBp0lPpkz6Mwf0O8Qao5TASnHAM_L7Kh13ZbHNWa1N5KrfxSeVI758_N-_985Uxq0Gg9c2GHN2ah-hoBLW/s640/53-amazing+colors.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We were continually amazed by the geography of the island: seeing these amazing colors in the sand and at the next turn,... </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdvasUWsVuS37zmgga-kpPZ2KiHAzyBkZ1m3YV6GOsOq0OkDWEl2kgCpXJjyVp8L867Xbole3bTaWLPPQ0zXc1_zq2WgojO-9CDVg5zjgTW9y7wZgzc1eaCubmJSknLX-kOP9JrikMTvSE/s1600/54-interior+roads.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdvasUWsVuS37zmgga-kpPZ2KiHAzyBkZ1m3YV6GOsOq0OkDWEl2kgCpXJjyVp8L867Xbole3bTaWLPPQ0zXc1_zq2WgojO-9CDVg5zjgTW9y7wZgzc1eaCubmJSknLX-kOP9JrikMTvSE/s640/54-interior+roads.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...driving through greenery like this!</td></tr>
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You will also recall that we spent 3 wonderful nights at the Consulate Hotel, and were spoilt rotten by the owner, Hazel. If ever you find yourself in St. Helena, a visit to the Consulate is a must, even if it's just for a delicious slice of cake!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beautiful Georgian building that is the Consulate Hotel</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieN9b6hKh5LIT93_7bzE_JGe1-ZsosbDReRQLVnJuUTFCyrINw2iMrKoEof6ALcmHZLqBrvdZQs73zcSX96b1hRpUXPMtF92yEqbxdbdHT3RtfFsQ7N89cSBwKfhq0LUj4pR-PXRzIS9im/s1600/44-gaby+hotel.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieN9b6hKh5LIT93_7bzE_JGe1-ZsosbDReRQLVnJuUTFCyrINw2iMrKoEof6ALcmHZLqBrvdZQs73zcSX96b1hRpUXPMtF92yEqbxdbdHT3RtfFsQ7N89cSBwKfhq0LUj4pR-PXRzIS9im/s640/44-gaby+hotel.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaby was able to practice playing the piano in the reception area. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The courtyard/bar area</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEd9ggzbSGXHk1l8P41EEe8FgnjleceRvgNRepWRHOH7uzzSdO6bxgh1alJEbEq3C31K_zggNISYriuhdri-wniCBK0cVUeB2sgvHlRxCxeEf2_SBXyfl7WyOluMnuvcvx2emC5A7oFcRo/s1600/46-hotel+coffee+shop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEd9ggzbSGXHk1l8P41EEe8FgnjleceRvgNRepWRHOH7uzzSdO6bxgh1alJEbEq3C31K_zggNISYriuhdri-wniCBK0cVUeB2sgvHlRxCxeEf2_SBXyfl7WyOluMnuvcvx2emC5A7oFcRo/s640/46-hotel+coffee+shop.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cakes displayed along the countertop are very tempting! The whole hotel is filled with beautiful, old collectibles</td></tr>
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And just like that, it was time to say farewell to this incredible place, and head for (not-so-distant) shores once more. A 700 mile journey (about 5 days sail) to Ascension Island was next. We were slowly making our way across the vast Atlantic Ocean!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-7kTfrime2F6odSmmRZqRZNax4GZkKIF0hHsj1PkCDNGZ4kIcLDlA_aRDh_2WjUB1944IyloAX3RK2rZ02n3nHGsUgOgIT7rVB1U7X-vfl-8Y39uLhyphenhyphenWdpkJjOObaWiyLnVsIscdtL7l/s1600/56a-anchorage.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-7kTfrime2F6odSmmRZqRZNax4GZkKIF0hHsj1PkCDNGZ4kIcLDlA_aRDh_2WjUB1944IyloAX3RK2rZ02n3nHGsUgOgIT7rVB1U7X-vfl-8Y39uLhyphenhyphenWdpkJjOObaWiyLnVsIscdtL7l/s640/56a-anchorage.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sun reflects off the cliffs with "Shuti" (left), and "Tangled Up" swing happily on the mooring bouys. We met "Tangled Up" again in Ascension Island<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying the sunset before heading out once more</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVLv7J_-Ql6g-jMMqzpn9xsgnBSul1BGw9ldXrEjcwAJFM9Q7fm8eVnpy5n_jtrFcNw946cCeTRvbbKv6XhNaykZtprVKpfvpG87SjFjtaLHo85Z2AyHJFTG-F4_C5fn6PCljpAyYDd9ug/s1600/57-Sunset-leaving.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVLv7J_-Ql6g-jMMqzpn9xsgnBSul1BGw9ldXrEjcwAJFM9Q7fm8eVnpy5n_jtrFcNw946cCeTRvbbKv6XhNaykZtprVKpfvpG87SjFjtaLHo85Z2AyHJFTG-F4_C5fn6PCljpAyYDd9ug/s640/57-Sunset-leaving.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back at sea...on our way to Ascension Island (Photo credit to Gaby)</td></tr>
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Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-19644003737616993872018-02-25T11:07:00.000-04:002018-02-25T11:09:11.844-04:00Greetings from Tobago in the Caribbean Greetings from a little village called Charlottesville on the NW corner of beautiful Tobago island in the Caribbean!
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<br>We are soooooo happy to be here after a relatively gruelling passage that ended up taking us 19 days and covered just over 3,000 nautical miles. It's also the longest and most exhausting passage we have done since leaving Madeira Beach, Florida in 2016. But we are now safely anchored in a beautiful bay, and are so looking forward to enjoying the last few months of this epic journey around the world in the paradise that lies between here and home. The last leg of our journey will take us through the beautiful Caribbean and Bahamas before reaching Key West where our inbound wake will cross our outbound wake and we will then have completed our circumnavigation sometime in June 2018 :)
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<br>I think the last blog post I did was on day 17 of our passage so I thought I would do a quick update of the last 2 days at sea and our first two days in Tobago.
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<br>On day 18 we were finally able to hoist our mainsail again, after sailing on just our jib for at least 4 days straight. The wind had abated to between 15 to 20 knots, but the seas remained pretty confused. At this point we no longer cared that it was still rough seas as we knew we only had to endure the discomfort for two more days :) You could feel the mood on the boat pick up as we got closer and closer to Tobago.
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<br>On the final morning of the last day at sea, we had a beautiful sunrise just after 6am local time (GMT -4). It was such a fantastic and gratifying feeling as we sat at the helm station sipping our morning coffee and looked down at the chiropractor and noted we had less than 40 miles to go! The wind had died a bit further down to around 15 knots, so we shook out the last reef in the mainsail and now where sailing under full main and jib for the first time this entire passage :) You could feel Cool Runnings chomping at the bit almost sensing land was just ahead! To crown this off we saw a rainbow ahead of us after a passing squall went buy, and had a couple of small dolphins swim with us for about 30 minutes.
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<br>I think we sighted land at about 30 miles out, as the mountains here are fairly high. The frustrating thing was we where now only sailing at about 6 knots, so it took us a long 5 hours to actually reach our anchorage.
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<br>We eventually got closer and closer, seeing the lush greenery and hearing tropical birds, and smelling land and the wet rainforest for the first time in 19 days. At about 12.30pm we dropped anchor in the small "Man of War Bay" just off the small remote village of Charlottesville on the NW corner of Tobago. We all breathed a sigh of relief and congratulated and hugged each other....we had made it safely across the Atlantic Ocean and were now in the Caribbean Sea :)
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<br>Customs and Immigration were closed for lunch so we decided to give the exterior of Cool Runnings a quick freshwater rinse down as there was salt everywhere!!!!! At around 2pm we launched the dingy and headed to shore to check in. There was still a fairly big residual swell coming into the bay which made landing on the small pier fairly tricky, but we have dealt with worse. We secured the dingy with a stern anchor and walked on land for the first time in nearly 3 weeks.... What a cool feeling :)
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<br>We asked someone where Customs was and off we went. It was an easy enough check in procedure. Next up was finding the only ATM in the village to draw out some local TT $'S (Trinidad and Tobago $'S). The Customs guy had told us that the local library had internet (he must know what cruisers need), so after drawing cash we walked across the road and into a beautiful air-conditioned library. We signed up for membership at a cost of TT $25 (about US $5), and with that had access to internet, books and magazines :) We spent the next hour checking our respective email, instagram etc, after last having proper internet on January 6th when we departed Cape Town.
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<br>By now we were getting pretty tired and hungry, so left the library and walked down the road parrelel to the bay until we found a small local place to eat. Two Carib beers and drinks for the kids were ordered along with 4 plates of local fish, rice and veggies. Man oh man, that beer and meal went down well!!!!!
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<br>By now it was just before 6pm and we were exhausted, so we headed back to the boat. As we approached the back of Cool Runnings we noticed that the cover that conceals the port engine room air intake and air exhaust was cracked and half was completely missing, exposing the big 5 inch diameter engine room ventilation pipes! This explains why on about day 16 we started to have the port side bilge pump activate probably every hour. I am guessing that with all the big waves that were smashing into Cool Runnings, that one of those waves must have cracked this cover that basically shields these pipes from waves, but allows air in. I am guessing that once it cracked following waves eventually ripped it off. From then on waves crashing into that area, would have sent water into these pipes and would then spill into the engine room bilge. As the water likely came in slow enough, it then flowed from the engine room into the main bilge and activated the automatic pump roughly
<br> every
<br>hour. At least we now know what was causing the bilge pump to activate. This is a custom part I will see if I can get from Lagoon in France, or I can possibly try and get something custom made out of aluminum in Grenada.
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<br>Well next stop was bed..... I can tell you that Guds and I fell asleep within minutes of getting back aboard, and had such a solid sleep. The next day we awoke to pouring rain. It rained the entire day, which was fine by us.... We relaxed, read, slept and just chilled out. We had intended to clean and tidy the inside of the boat, but were just too exhausted. :) The boat got a wonderful natural washdown all day from the rain, from top to bottom which was great to get rid of residual salt. Last night we met some fellow cruisers anchored next to us, who came over for sundowners and to say hello.... a German couple, at the beginning part of their circumnavigation aboard a boat called Pico.
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<br>Today is another rainy day, which is OK with us.... We are still pretty tired, so the kids are doing school while I am updating the blog, and Guds is organizing the last months of school curriculum. Over the next few days we will explore this small island, only 27 miles long by 5 miles wide, likely by hired car. From the little we have seen it looks beautiful with lush vegetation.
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<br>With that I am off to do a few chores such as checking the engines, generator and rig while the kids complete school. All the best to you and thanks for all the well wishes we received along the way. I have said it many times, but thanks for the emails we receive.... it's nice to know people are enjoying following our journey. Drop us a line anytime you want at <a href="mailto:hibberd@myiridium.net">hibberd@myiridium.net</a>, but please remember we can't download any attachments or pictures over the Iridium Sattelite phone.
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<br>Cheers and all the best from Dave, Guds, Ben and Gaby
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<br>Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-17091787287707492682018-02-20T13:01:00.000-04:002018-02-20T13:02:53.932-04:00Day 17 of Atlantic passage from Ascension Island to Tobago Hi everyone Dave reporting and sorry about the long gap in updates. It's been a rough continuous probably 5 or 6 days and we are pretty exhausted so have not had the energy to write. I thought I would start off by copying and pasting the below email text Gaby sent to my folks and sisters this morning.... It's a great perspective of what the last few days have been like, but specifically last night.... Here goes from Gaby:
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<br>"Gaby Reports" was the the email title...
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<br>Hi there...
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<br>Well, we had a heck of a night. The wind came up to 35 knots, and the waves were huge and I'd say about every 30 minutes a big one would crash over us. And I mean everywhere. It came in the helm station and down the to the cockpit even with all the canvases shut! I bet there isn't a inch outside that isn't covered in salt!😂
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<br>Just to add to all the stress and horribleness, when we turned the generator on it shut off by itself... TWICE!! And so that scared me when I heard the steady rumble of the generator and heard it fading away. Daddy thinks it is the fuel filters that didn't allow enough fuel through to run, I think.
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<br>In light of all this, we did amazing speed with just the jib up and the current with us: 179 miles in 24 hours!!! So that probably saved us half a day of sailing. We think we will get there on the 23rd... ONLY 3 DAYS LEFT!!!!🎉 I still can't believe this but right now the wind is 22 knots (side-on), we have just the jib out, and we are doing 9.3 knots!!! Consistently!!!!!!!
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<br>Well, poor Cool Runnings is getting punched by all these mean waves from all directions, but we have to remember there are people who have gone through much much much worse.
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<br>Love and miss you all (and stable ground!😂)
<br>Gaby
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<br>Dave back now...
<br>So that's the unedited description to my folks from my brave little girl :)
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<br>Backing up about a week, we were doing OK on the rumline going directly to Tobago. The wind and seastate was OK and we got to celebrate Guds birthday at sea on a nice sunny day, after many days of grey skies. We had pancakes for breakfast, fresh baked bread for lunch and a birthday cake in the afternoon. Guds present was a necklace that Gaby made from a piece of blue coral we had only ever seen in Chagos. We had collected some of it off the beach and so I drilled a hole in a nice specimen and Gaby did the rest, creating a beautiful unique necklace.
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<br>That same day Gaby also wrote a lovely message and placed it in a bottle and cast it into the sea. Time will tell if anyone ever finds it and gets back to us :)
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<br>So a day later on the 19th, we started running into a progressively strong current against us. It was pretty frustrating sailing at 8 knots, but actually only doing 6 knots SOG as the current held us back. So we made the decision to change course and head more west towards Brazil to try and pick up the favorable NW flowing Guiana current. This would entail altering course quite radically and adding additional mileage to our trip, but we figured we had to get out of the counter current. A ship passing us that we had radioed, confirmed that if we continued on our then current course the opposing current would get even stronger and in his thick Russian accent told us in no uncertain terms "....and you vil suffer if you continue on zis course". Decision made.... We don't like to suffer !!!!!!!
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<br>So with that, we altered course and sailed west instead of north west for a few days. One of our blog readers and fellow Lagoon catamaran owner emailed us back and forth as he watched our online live tracker, and yesterday morning confirmed that we should be in the current according to the pilot charts he had. Sure enough early morning we hit the NW flowing current and made a course change back towards Tobago. Thanks for your help Gerald... very much appreciated!!!!
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<br>Sadly the wind and seas have not been kind these last few days and over the last 3 days in particular it's been extremely rough with strong winds of between 20 to 35 knots. Last night we had sustained winds of 36 knots with gusts of 38. The seas have been extremely confused and BIG. Last night and today we have had many waves breaking side on to us and the spray shooting up and over the helm station roof that sits about 12 feet above the sea.
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<br>To add insult to injury last night when starting the generator to charge our batteries, it ran for about a minute and faded out and stopped. It's the first time this entire trip around the world that it's given any trouble. It did this twice until eventually it ran. Gaby said a prayer, and just like that it worked. I discovered this morning the fuel filter that I put in brand new in Capetown just under 2 months ago was blocking. Unfortunately the diesel we got in Ascension Island looked really dirty, but we had no choice as we had a 3,000 mile passage ahead of us, so took it onboard and into the tanks. What has happened I bet, is with all the rough sea, the bad fuel and any other bad dirt in the tank is all stirred up instead of settled at the bottom, and has plugged up the fuel filters. Once I found that, this morning I changed the fuel filter, and have been running the " fuel polishing" system my dad and I constructed before we departed, so that basically
<br>continually circulates fuel from the tank, through a 30 micron filter, and back to the tank. Unfortunately it's too rough to open the engine room hatches and change those filters, but if we get a calm patch I will do it.
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<br>We have also had a watermaker issue for the first time ever since leaving home. I have not been able to solve the issue yet, but have been able to run it on manual bypass mode which makes water, but no "automated safety shut down protection". It's OK to do for a short while until I can get it fixed. I have emailed Spectra in the USA where I bought the unit so hopefully will hear something back today or tomorrow .... I think it's a faulty sensor that sensors water pressure differences and is thinking the filters are "clogged " based on a faulty reading, despite fitting brand new filters.... We will see :)
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<br>We have been sailing with only our jib and no mainsail for the last 48 hours. It's been so rough. Luckily with the current in our favor now we are making up lost time and hope to arrive in Tobago on the 23rd February. We now have only 535 miles remaining and likely another 3 or Max 4 days at sea..... Yay!!!!! I can taste that Carib beer already!!!!
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<br>So with that news I will end off and wish you all well. Thanks for the many emails from old and new friends we have received on this trip. It's great catching up with you all!
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<br>Cheers Dave and the very bouncy Cool Runners!
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<br>Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-80657806150487863922018-02-13T17:29:00.000-04:002018-02-13T17:40:09.420-04:00Day 10 of Atlantic passage to Tobago Hi everyone and thanks as always for your emails ..... So nice to hear from so many people, and is always a highlight of our day, so keep them coming if you have a spare few minutes to take the time to write :)
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<br>Well it's just after 7pm on day 10 as we head into night 10. We had a good night last night with stars and nice acceptably comfortable seas.
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<br>That all changed today :) At around 11am the wind came up to 20 knots and with that the sea state started changing rapidly. Ben and I put in one reef and that helped tame the boat a little.
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<br>Guds had been napping downstairs and as she came up a huge wave broke over the boat and soaked everything. Sadly our bedroom top hatch was slightly open and in came a sheet of salt water, leaving a pool on our bed. @$*?!!!!! Not good!!!
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<br>That set the work load for the remainder of the day. Poor Guds stripped the bedding and we ended up doing 2 loads of washing.... One for duvet and one for the duvet cover and sheets. Of course it's a down duvet so does not dry quickly! We are so happy I installed a washing machine on the boat!!!
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<br>It's not all bad as a few nights ago a flying fish dropped down our again open hatch. I smelt something fishy but upon inspection with a flashlight only found a few scales on deck so figured the guy had made it back into the sea after skidding over the deck. Two days later the smell got worse and after a closer inspection found the offending deceased flying fish wedged between our bed and our new mainsail stored in our cabin. That took me about an hour to clean, so at least the sheets got another wash today :)
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<br>By late this afternoon the wind was consistently over 20 knots and Cool Runnings was doing 8 to 9 knots through the water, but a 1.5 knot current against us slowed our VMG (velocity made good) to Tobago to 6.5 to 7 knots.... Very frustrating when we are actually sailing through the water at 8 to 9 knots! The wind continued to increase and with it the seastate, so Ben and I put in a second reef. That tamed things further and made the ride a bit more acceptable, although still pretty bouncy and rough.
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<br>The wind is now down to 18 to 20 knots as it gets dark, but we have decided to keep 2 reefs in tonight, just as a precaution in case it comes up again or a squall hits us. It will mean going at least 1 knot slower, but it's peace of mind at least!
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<br>We are nearing the halfway mark and now have 1,581 miles remaining before we arrive in Tobago..... Bring it on.... Blue skies and turquoise water.... We can't wait and keep that mental picture in our minds on days like today :)
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<br>The other big milestone for us was crossing the equator 2 nights ago. At around 10.30pm we crossed the equator back into the Northern Hemisphere ..... It was a low key cerebration aboard as we are already " trusty shellbacks", but we did ask Neptune to grant us safe passage :)
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<br>So with that back to another night watch for me.... Like Guds said in the last blog update, there is no real rest or stopping.... We just continue westward towards the beautiful Caribbean :)
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<br>Cheers from Dave
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<br>Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-8892479549089764712018-02-11T07:39:00.000-04:002018-02-11T07:41:26.122-04:00Night Shift on night 7 of Passage to Tobago When we write about our days at sea on passage, it probably sounds idyllic... sleeping, reading, eating pancakes... should I throw in a couple of children with halos balancing on their heads, willingly doing their school work...? Just a reminder though, that we do this day and night and day and night and day and night. There's no stopping at the end of the day and turning in for the night, so speaking of which, let me tell you about our night last night...
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<br>Dave took the first shift and I went to lie down from around 8:00pm. When I took over from Dave just after 10:00pm, all looked good. I did notice a ship that was heading towards us, and decided to keep an eye on it. By midnight, the ship was within about 7 miles of us, and, judging from the AIS info, our angle and the ship's angle, it should pass us within 2-3 miles in about 35 minutes. I decided to wake Dave, just so he was aware, because it was close, but no danger. I have no problem calling the ship on the radio, but ever since a bad experience in Indonesia, where I answered a call from a ship, and when the response was rude and we had to deal with cat calls on the radio for the following couple of hours, we decided to let that be Dave's job, after all, he is the Captain.
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<br>So he radioed the ship, asking if they had seen us. He responded that he could not see our AIS (Automatic Identification System), but would check radar. He came back and said he could see us on radar, and would pass behind us. Dave checked our AIS settings and realized we were traveling in "silent mode", which means we can see other AIS signals, but we can't be seen. He had put it in silent mode a few days ago when a suspicious, rusty looking Chinese fishing trawler snuck up on us, and since they didn't have AIS, Dave didn't want them, or if there were others in the fleet ("they travel in packs, you know"), to be able to see us!
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<br>So AIS back on normal mode, Dave checked with the ship to see if he could now see us, and he could. He was a very nice Indian gentleman who was intrigued with this little sailing vessel bobbing around the ocean, and he and Dave proceeded to have a long conversation, Dave answering all sorts of questions from how do we get fresh water (water maker), to how many countries have we visited (we didn't actually know, we thought around 20). He had come from Spain and was heading to Brazil. Our midnight rendezvous and conversation with the ship now complete, Dave said I should get some sleep and he would take over the watch. So I snoozed from around 12:30am to around 3:00am, when it was time to take over from Dave.
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<br>At around 4:00am, the wind suddenly died. The sails started flapping and I switched on one of the engines. This woke Dave, who had had about 1 hour of sleep. He came up in time to feel the wind suddenly go cold. We looked at each other and simultaneously said "squall! ". Dave turned on the radar, to see what we were dealing with, but it takes about a minute to warm up. During that time, we lowered our canvas enclosures to stay dry and the rain had started bucketing down! When the radar finally booted up, it showed us in the middle of a big, ugly red and yellow blob, a big storm. It was pitch black, and all we could see was the rain coming down in sheets where it reflected in the navigation lights. The wind had switched 180 degrees, now coming out of the South, when previously it had come out of the north! And it started building...15, 18, 20, 22, 24 knots... not the 30+ knots we've experienced before, but we had a full main sail up, and with the n
<br> ew
<br>angle of the wind, we had to be careful. The worst was the sea... it had been whipped up into a frenzy, with waves coming at us from every angle and poor Cool Runnings was like a bucking bronco trying to ride them!! With Dave trying to manage the wind angle and me lending support where I could, we rode out the storm for about and hour and a half.
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<br>In the grey, dull light of dawn, we decided to drop the main sail. The sea was so confused that the main was starting to flog, swinging violently from side to side. We did what we could from the cockpit, but eventually Dave went out in the pouring rain to get the final part of the sail down, only to notice that a pulley or shackle, some fitting that holds the sail up, had broken. We will have to have a closer look once daylight arrives.
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<br>We sailed for a while on the jib only, but eventually the storm died, and along with it, the wind. Exhausted, I went to sleep for a few hours, while Dave kept and eye on things outside. It's now his turn, he's catching a few hours of sleep before we face another day, our 8th of this passage, and do it all again... day and night and day and night and day and night...!!!
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<br>The good news is that we broke the 2,000 mile barrier, and have 1,884 miles to go! Even better is that the sea has calmed down somewhat and we are no longer a bucking bronco. We should also cross the equator today, and are hoping that we will get out of this unstable zone soon thereafter. I wonder what tonight will bring...??!!
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<br>Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-58065937394887829602018-02-09T15:09:00.000-04:002018-02-09T15:11:44.830-04:00Ascension Island, South Atlantic Ocean Hi everyone ....Dave here and hoping this blog post finds you all well!!!!
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<br>As I write this we are at sea on the longest individual leg of our journey thus far...sailing 3,012 miles from Ascension Island in the South Atlantic Ocean to Tobago Island in the Caribbean. We are on day 6 of this passage with 2,135 miles remaining! So far all has gone well, and we are currently motoring through the doldrums as we are now 2 degrees south of the equator with no wind. Based on the weather forecast we anticpate we will have to motor for about 3 to 4 days to get into the northern hemisphere and the NE trade winds.
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<br>We had a wonderful 5 days stay in Ascension island. It is even more remote and less visited than St Helena, but such an interesting place with so much history.
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<br>We arrived on a Monday night at around 9.30pm and found a safe place to anchor in Clarence Bay which is just off the small settlement of Georgetown. The island is owned by the British and has really remained a military outpost since early settlement. It was first discovered in the 15 hundreds, but only occupied in the 18 hundreds when the British established a garrison there to ward off any possible attempt to rescue Napoleon imprisoned on nearby St Helena.
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<br>Ascension island was surprisingly interesting. We didn't know what to expect. There's all sorts of interesting stuff going on there. There are 2 military bases (1 British and 1 US), a BBC relay station and some other equivalent British agency like the NSA, listening to "stuff" with tons of weird aerials, antennas and satellite dishes and golf ball like looking radar domes. Super secret spy stuff, we think!!!!! The place is practically deserted, it's quite eerie. No-one on the street of Georgetown, but there are about 800 people living here. All contract workers or military. No permanent residents. Because of the BBC relay station, we were able to get BBC World News and BFBS (British Forces Broadcasting Service) loud and clear, which made for a nice change!
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<br>On Tuesday morning we launched the dingy to try and go ashore to check in, but the swell was huge and breaking waves were crashing over the one and only landing spot, a small pier that juts out into the sea. After calling the authorities on VHF they advised not to attempt a landing as it was too rough :( So back to the boat we went and had a chill day which was a good thing as we were still not feeling 100 percent.
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<br>On Wednesday we were able to land and check in and walk around the small settlement. The landscape is like mars. Just red and black earth, dry, barren, lava flows, razor sharp rocks everywhere, and then one mountain called Green Mountain that is like a rainforest in the clouds! It was all a biological experiment dating back to the days of Darwin, to see if plants were planted on the mountain, if it would increase rainfall. It worked, but to think it's all man made is just unbelievable!!!! And of course the very few native plants are now endangered, 3 species already extinct! All fascinating stuff out here in the middle of nowhere!
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<br>On Thursday we met up with Andy Hobson, whom Hazel from St Helena had asked us to take some plants to, for his wife, Janet. So we met Andy on the pier in the morning and he was kind enough to give us a tour all around the island! As it turns out Andy was a former competitive Laser sailor in the UK....such a small world!
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<br>Our tour started with Andy opening up the museum and fort for us which was a great bonus as we had attempted to see it the day prior, but it only officially opens on a Saturday....lucky for us Andy had the keys :) We looked around at some fascinating artifacts, old photos and descriptions of life on Ascension Island over the past few hundred years. A quick walk through the fort reveled more of life back in the 18 hundreds.
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<br>Next up we drove through the American base and then the British base, and then to the small settlement called "Two Boats" town. It's called this as there were two old boats stood up right next to each other, and back in the day before cars, the boats were used as a stopping point to get some shade in the blistering heat.... Remember there are no trees or any shade on the lower part of the island!
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<br>We had some lunch at "Two Boats" and admired the view as it's situated up on a hill fairly high above sea level. After this Andy drove us up Green Mountain and the highest point on the island. What a contrast!!!!!! From a Mars like landscape on most of the island to just lush rainforest!!!!! It was spectacular!!!! We parked the car and proceeded to walk around the forest and to a collection point for the island's first fresh water supply. There was an old fort up high and now also some gardens that locals use to preserve some of the endangered species of plants.
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<br>After this we drove to the remote east part of the island where NASA had a tracking station for the early space expeditions and also the moon landings. Sadly the remote buildings are now closed off and abandoned, but it was amazing to see and think of the history just in this one location! In this same area we saw the area that the Ascension Island Frigate bird nest.... The only place in the world. These birds are HUGE, and coinsidently we had one circling our mast late yesterday looking like he wanted to attempt a landing, which would have been the end of our instruments at the top of the mast!
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<br>One final stop on our way back was Comfortless Bay where the poor folks that contracted Yellow fever back in the early days where abandoned and left as outcasts to die. There were a number of old graves from that time. Again the landscape is simply stunning, as baron and stark as you can imagine, with volcanic rock everywhere as though it was formed yesterday. Against this aridness was a spectacularly beautifully crystal clear turquoise blue water in this little bay. With that Andy dropped us back at the pier at around 5pm after a wonderful adventures day.
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<br>Andy thank you for taking the time to tour is around this beautiful island and explain so much of the fascinating history to us.... It was certainly the highlight of our stop and very much appreciated!
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<br>For us the day was not yet over as we had booked to go on a turtle tour that evening at 9pm. A huge conservation effort is going on and scientists studying green turtles, seabirds, land crabs and working on saving endemic plant species exists on the island today. So at 8.30pm we launched the dingy again and made a night landing at this tough pier. We walked up to the conservation center to wait for our tour. We could not believe our eyes when in walks one of the guides for the night, no other than Simon, who was the official that checked us in on Chagos Island last year July! It turned out that Simon's wife works on Ascension Island and he was visiting and volunteering with the turtle conservation efforts!
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<br>So after a brief catch up with Simon, watching a video on the turtles, we headed down to the beach in the dark to see if we could spot some laying eggs. These particular green turtles are pretty big and actually live and feed off Brazil, but come just to Ascension Island to lay eggs.... Quite a distance just to nest! We could see at least 6 turtles at various stages of making their way up the beach to laying eggs and making their way back to the water. The whole cycle takes a few hours. We found a turtle in the midst of laying her eggs. With the guides direction we positioned ourselves behind the turtle and with a red light (they can't see) watched as ping-pong sized egg after egg fell from her into a carefully dug nest. Apparently in this stage of laying eggs they go into a trance and are not even aware we were watching. It was truly spectacular to witness this miracle of nature and one we will always remember. We watched as she finished laying her eggs and then c
<br> overed
<br>them up at a painfully slow speed, obviously exhausted from the nights efforts. She rested for a while and then began the long journey of about 100 meters back to the ocean.
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<br>After saying our goodbyes to Simon we headed back to the boat in awe of what a day we had just experienced.
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<br>The following day we decided to just chill, and the day after on Saturday marked the final voyage of the resupply ship RMS St Helena, that has brought supplies and passengers from Cape Town to St Helena and Ascension Island for many years. I believe it was built in the 1980's and has become obsolete now that an airport has opened on St. Helena and is also too costly to continue running. Ascension has a military airport and receives some items through that as its primarily a military island and population. With this being a historic day for the RMS St Helena a big celebration was planned on the island which included guided tours of the ship on Saturday before its departure on Sunday. We were lucky enough to secure a tour, and along with the two other sailboats moored with us, Tangled Up and Alma, we enjoyed a trip out to the ship and a guided tour around.... Very cool to see and quite a historic event we were able to be part of. After the tour we headed into the groce
<br> ry
<br>store for one last stock up on some limited fresh produce, before saying our goodbyes to Jonas from Alma and then heading back to our boat for one last goodnight sleep.
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<br>The following Sunday morning we upped anchor at around 9am, waved goodbye to the island and RMS St Helena, and headed off into the deep blue South Atlantic Ocean. Ahead of us lay a huge distance of over 3,000 miles, probably about 20 days at sea, and 4 time zones to cross before we would see land again.... quite a daunting task, and one we have learnt to take one day at a time so as not to be overwhelmed by the task ahead. We've done lots of sleeping and reading and the kids have been doing some school work in the mornings. Yesterday we had pancakes for breakfast, always a treat on passage!
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<br>And so ends this blog update. We will hopefully write in the days ahead of how the passage is going and what we are up to. Please fee free to drop us a note on our satellite email address <a href="mailto:hibberd@myiridium.net">hibberd@myiridium.net</a> .....we love getting updates from everyone and hearing from friends and people that follow our blog.... It's always a highlight of our day :) just please remember we can only receive a simple email with no attachments or pictures.
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<br>Take care and wishing you all the very best.
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<br>Cheers Dave
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<br>Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4118960343660861231.post-83241239247548032742018-02-03T14:08:00.000-04:002018-02-03T14:32:19.496-04:00St. HelenaI had every intention of bringing you all a nice description of our experiences in St. Helena, that tiny island in the South Atlantic Ocean, along with great photos, and what happened? We left you hanging on Day 8!! (But we made it, obviously! And I write this now, as we prepare to leave Ascension Island on our 3,000 mile passage to Trinidad and Tobago).
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<br> There are two WiFi hotspots in Jamestown, Anne's Place (a snack bar/restaurant) and the Consulate Hotel. Shortly after we arrived, we bought a voucher at Anne's Place for £3.30, which got us 30 minutes of internet time. I had to send forms to Ascension Island (our next stop after St. Helena) to get an entry permit, and, when my email, with only a small attachment, was still sitting in my outbox at the end of my 30 minutes, I realized that I would never be able to upload any photos, or do a blog update via the internet! So I'll have to do the photos at a later date, which is a pity, because words cannot fully describe the vast differences in landscape, the old buildings and forts and friendly people that we encountered here!
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<br>We arrived in the early hours of the morning on Thursday, January 18th. The only indication (other than our chart plotter) that the island was there, were a few lights warning mariners of the dangers ahead. Slowly, as dawn broke, the mammoth rock that is St. Helena started to form, and we wondered again of the Portuguese explorers of the past, who discovered this island in 1502, and how on earth they possibly came upon it. It must have been by accident, because it is literally in the middle of nowhere. They must have been so excited to find a new land, but was their excitement short lived, when, on first sight, it seems that it is just a barren lump of rock sticking out of the ocean? How long did it take them to discover the lush, green interior and the beauty of St. Helena?
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<br>Our trusty spinnaker had pulled us for days and nights on end to our destination, and after 10 days, we finally lowered it and motored the last mile to the big mooring buoys that are made available to visiting yachts. Since we arrived early, we used the time to clean the boat and get everything back in order (if you haven't realized by now, Captain Dave runs a tight ship!). He and the kids washed the salt of the 10 day passage off the outside, and I scrubbed and cleaned and wiped and tidied the inside. Soon it was time to go ashore to clear in at customs. We'd heard different reports regarding check-in – some boats reported they had to go ashore to check in, while others said the authorities came to them. In our case, Port Control asked us to come ashore, so we hailed a water taxi and went on our way. There is no safe place to land your dinghy in St. Helena, so they run a water taxi, for a small fee, that ferries yachties to and from their boats to the wharf. The
<br> only
<br>painful thing with check-in here, were the fees: £35 harbor dues, £17 per person at immigration (£68), £2 per day mooring fee and then the taxi fee, which in the end was about £20. But we were here, and after our passports were stamped, and our fees paid, we were free to roam about the land!
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<br>Jamestown in nestled in a valley between 2 very steep, very barren mountains. There is one street, and you enter through an archway, part of the old castle, that has been there since 1832. On the one side, is Jacob's Ladder, 699 steps that go straight up, as if it's a ladder climbing up into the sky! It used to work on a pulley system, where they would bring supplies up to Ladder Hill Fort, strategically sitting on top of the mountain. On the other side, on Munden's Point you can see the remnants of more fortifications, a reminder that this island was a strategic port of call during the British Empire.
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<br>On Friday morning, we decided to take a walk to the "Heart Shaped Waterfall". We walked and walked, out of town, up windy roads, asking locals along the way, if we were on the right track. "Oh yes! It's just around the corner…just keep going", was the usual response. So we kept going. Eventually, we saw a tiny sign off the road, that said "Heart Shaped Waterfall". Yes! We were almost there! Well, not quite. That sign took us just to the start of the track to the waterfall! Another 45 minutes or so later, we finally stumbled on the waterfall, which turned out not to be a waterfall at all! No-one had told us that the waterfall only falls in winter, during the rainy season! As we sat at the base of the waterfall, all 4 of us strained to try and see this famous heart shape. We looked at it from every angle, trying very hard to imagine any type of heart shape. No-one could see it! It was only the following day, when we took a tour, and the tour guide s
<br> topped
<br>on the side of the road, and pointed it out to us, could we clearly see the heart shape! I then also read a small caveat at the bottom of the description "the waterfall is best viewed from the road". ARRGGHH! We had walked almost 3 hours to see it, when all we had to do, is view it from the side of the road! But never mind, it was good exercise, and the walk, once on the track, was lovely, as we walked through ever changing landscape, from dry, grassy land, to lush, green forest, and the base of the waterfall was gorgeous, even if there was no water falling, just a light rainy mist!
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<br>We also had another treat in St. Helena. Dave's sister, Kim, organized for us to stay 2 nights at "The Consulate Hotel", and then the owner, Hazel, threw in another night for free! The hotel was empty, and she said it made no difference if we stayed 2 or 3 nights. Hazel is possibly the kindest person we have ever met. She took us under her wing, and spoilt us rotten! The hotel itself was so full of history, it was amazing. In the dining room, one of the beams on the roof was the original wooden mast of a ship, called the "Darkdale" that caught fire and sank off the coast of St. Helena in the late 1800 or early 1900's. Also in the dining room was the steering wheel and other original artifacts from the ship. The hotel itself also had a long history, being built in the 1800's, and you could still see the walls that are about 2 feet thick! It was such a treat to stay there, and be off the boat and away from the rolly anchorage for 3 nights!
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<br>On Saturday morning, we were able to take a quick tour of the island, with one of the local tour guides, Robert Peters. Unfortunately, Robert had another tour in the afternoon, and had to be back at 1:30pm, so we felt our tour was a little rushed. Our friends on Shuti, who arrived on Saturday morning, took the same tour on Monday, and they were underway for the entire day, from 9:30am to about 4:30pm, whereas we only had 3 hours, which was unfortunate. But it was still great to do the tour, as it gave us a good general overview of the island, and we were able to get a car on Monday, and go back to the places we either had missed, (like the Napoleonic sites), or wanted to see again. And we were able to see the incredible differences in vegetation, from the dry, desolate, rocky landscape, to lush, green rolling hills with forests and meadows! It's quite bizarre and amazing to see! While Dave and Benjamin relaxed in the hotel on Saturday afternoon, Gaby and I went for a
<br> walk,
<br>and ended up climbing Jacob's Ladder! It took us about 20 – 25 minutes (we unfortunately didn't time ourselves), and took in some spectacular views at the top!
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<br>Absolutely everything closes on a Sunday in St. Helena, and it was a ghost town! Gaby and I went for another walk, this time exploring the 3 Sisters walk and up along Munden's. It provided some spectacular views of the anchorage and Jamestown. We had also planned to meet Shuti in the afternoon, to all climb Jacob's Ladder together, but by this time, Benjamin had come down with a nasty cough, fever and flu-like symptoms. He was not feeling well at all, so we thought it best not to do the climb, and had to give Shuti the bad news. They climbed it without us, and we watched as one by one, they reached the top: First Yoav, then Eyal, then Momi, then little Dror, who had been with Lilach the whole time, but suddenly got a burst of energy and left her behind!
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<br>First thing on Monday morning, Dave headed off to the tourist office, to see if we could get a rental car. We'd been told that there were no cars available, but Dave was determined! He came back with two thumbs up – he'd secured one! So on Monday, we packed up our stuff and quickly took it back to the boat, and then headed out to explore in our rental car. Poor Benjamin was not well at all, and slept for most of the drive. First stop was Napoleon's tomb. Napoleon was brought to St. Helena as a prisoner after his defeat in the battle of Waterloo in June 1815. It took 2 months for the HMS Northumberland to sail to St. Helena, and Napoleon landed at Jamestown on 17 October 1815. He spent the first night in Jamestown, and then spent 2 months in a house called "The Briars", which we saw from a distance. Soon after, he moved into "Longwood", a beautiful house in the hills, where he spent 5 and a half years before his death at the age of 52, in May 1821, aft
<br> er a
<br>prolonged illness. It is said that he was frustrated at being confined on the island, but he had free reign, and would ride his horse around, and explored pretty much the whole island. He loved the beauty and tranquility of the Sane Valley, which is where he was buried and where we visited his tomb. Almost 20 years after he was laid to rest, the French exhumed his body in 1840 and took his remains to France.
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<br>The island's remote location meant it was an ideal place for the exile of key prisoners, and along with its most famous prisoner, Napoleon, the island also housed some 6,000 Boer prisoners, brought here from South Africa, during the Anglo-Boer War of 1899-1902. We visited the sites where thousands of Boers were housed in rows upon rows of white tents. Also brought to the island in 1890 as a captive was Chief DiniZulu, the son of Zulu king Chetswayo. We drove all over the island, marveling in the sheer magnitude of the dry, barren rock faces, and then the lush, green hills and forests that could have convinced a soul you were in England. Many of the hillsides are covered in flax, which was imported from New Zealand, and was a thriving industry until the 1960's. The fibres from the leaf of the flax plant were used to make rope, and the flax was exported to many parts of the world. For a long time, donkeys were used to transport items around the island, and today, ther
<br> e is a
<br>donkey sanctuary for those poor little guys who are now living their last days out in peace!
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<br>We were also curious to check out the new, controversial airport that has been built on St. Helena. Up until the last quarter of last year, when the airport finally opened after many delays and problems, the only way on and off the island was by ship, the RMS (Royal Mail Ship) St. Helena. This ship is a combination of cargo and passenger ship, and has been serving the island for the last 27 years, and its predecessors for many years before that. Many "Saints" (the name given to local St. Helenians), were opposed to the airport, thinking that easier access to the island would destroy its unique character and completely change the dynamic of the island. The airport, however, has been fraught with its own problems, and we heard many different stories as to what those actually are, but we understand that because of St. Helena's sheer cliffs, the wind shear on the runway is so strong, that bigger planes cannot land, and while originally they had planned for 737's to be
<br> able
<br>to land, now, only a small Embraer plane, which can carry only 74 passengers can land. Now, each Saturday, a plane that flies between St. Helena and Cape Town brings a handful of tourists to the island. Supplies will still have to be shipped in by cargo ship, but the RMS St. Helena is being retired after many years of service, a sad ending to a way of life for so many Saints. (We will have the privilege of seeing, and boarding the RMS St. Helena as it makes it last stop in Ascension Island, before being decommissioned).
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<br>We returned our car and headed back to the boat. We spent the following day just relaxing on the boat. Benjamin spent the day in bed, and took a while to recover. We put him on antibiotics as it sounded like the cough had gotten into his chest. On Wednesday, Dave, Gaby and I went for a quick snorkel on the wreck of the "Papanui", a passenger ship that had been transporting 360-odd people to Australia in 1911, when it caught fire and sank in the harbor of St. Helena. No-one died, and the survivors were cared for by "Saints" until another ship could come and take them to their destination. Dave also spent 3 hours in the cold water, scrubbing the hulls, so we would have a clean bottom for our trip to Ascension!
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<br>We then went to shore to get our final provisions and say our farewells to Hazel and Kathy at the Consulate Hotel. Timing is everything in St. Helena with regards to shopping and/or eating. On Wednesdays, the shops close at 1:00pm, so we had to rush to make it before they closed, but I managed to get a few oranges, two loaves of bread, some frozen veggies and, very importantly, some chocolate, before the doors closed for the day! We then went to see Hazel, who loaded us up with her whole kitchen, it seemed! She gave us a case of long life yoghurts, carrots, tomatoes, cucumber and lettuce, all from her farm, and the most precious commodity on the island: eggs! Eggs are almost impossible to come by on St. Helena. Hazel has some chickens on her farm and had been saving eggs for us over the time period we were there! We felt so incredibly spoiled. She wouldn't accept payment for any of the food, and asked only to "pay it forward". So, as a start, we gave some egg
<br> s to
<br>"Shuti". Gaby declared that Hazel is possibly the kindest person she had ever met, and we certainly agreed with her!!
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<br>So early on Thursday morning, January 25th, while it was still dark, we let go our mooring lines and headed off in the direction of Ascension Island, some 700 miles to the NW. We had a good passage with relatively light winds, which was fine, because no sooner had we left than Gaby, and then Dave got sick with whatever Ben had had. Coughing, fevers and body aches, the virus we'd picked up was pretty nasty. Luckily, we have plenty of antibiotics on board, and a direct line to Dave's sister, Kim, who is a nurse, (and also has direct access to doctors!), and who told us what to take and what to do. We arrived 5 days later at Ascension Island, a volcanic outcrop even more remote and more stark than St. Helena, an island that we didn't have much information on, and didn't really know what to expect, but that has certainly exceeding any expectations we had!
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<br>Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.Gudrun Hibberdhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04200879238505367649noreply@blogger.com1