Thursday, September 8, 2016

Farewell to Beautiful Bora Bora



Aerial view of Bora Bora
As Dave mentioned in our previous post, we reluctantly left Bora Bora yesterday.  We had been in Bora Bora for just over 2 weeks, and could see why other cruisers have said they spend a whole month there.  It is absolutely beautiful!  We had read that Bora Bora had lost its charm, and was completely over developed, and some cruisers we had spoken to had said they were going to skip it all together.  Well, we certainly couldn't do that, and we are so glad we didn't!!  After having explored the whole island, both from the water and the land, both Dave and I agree that it was one the most beautiful of all the islands we've visited so far, (however, this may now slip into second place, now that we are in Maupiti!).  Yes, there are hotels and resorts, but there are also plenty of secluded anchorages where you can be by yourself and not even have another boat as a neighbour!  So to us, it was the best of both worlds:  development if and when we needed/wanted it; and seclusion and beauty when that was what we were looking for.  And the shades of turquoise water here in many different anchorages far superseded any we'd seen to date.

This picture of  one of our anchorages was taken by drone flown by Loic on Moby.  Cool Runnings is behind on the left, in front of us is Fata Morgana, Moby is the next catamaran along, and Excalibur is the monohull furthest away

We spent the first week anchored in various places along the north, east, and south east part of the island, usually in about 5 feet of crystal clear water, at times between the St. Regis and 4 Seasons over-the-water bungalow resort, another time off a beach, another time behind a motu at South East corner, snaking our way through a narrow channel in the coral, to get there.  From all of these places we had a magnificent view of Mt. Otemanu, the iconic peak that is synonymous with Bora Bora.

Another drone shot of Bora Bora - you can see some of the resorts with their bungalows on the right side of the picture

 Ben at our anchorage at the south east corner behind the Sofitel private island

Our days were spent doing school in the mornings, spending time researching our next destinations, swimming, snorkeling and simply relaxing.  One day we went to snorkel with the Manta Rays and were extremely lucky to see 5 of these magnificent, gentle giants!  (Dave has posted a short video on this as well).
One of the beautiful Mantas

A little harder to see, but this guy was coming towards us

Some of the beautiful scenery BELOW the water!

Ben and Gaby snorkeling

This is what they were looking at!

On Tuesday of our second week we headed over to the main town, Vaitape, to go and check it out.  The village itself is somewhat quaint, but not really what I would have expected with Bora Bora being such a jet-set destination.  On the other hand, it is nice that it has remained just that:  a simple little village.  On Wednesday we rented a car and toured the island, which is really quite small.  You can drive around it in about an hour if you don't stop.

Bora Bora was the first island created after Raiatea, and it is believed that it has been inhabited since the year 900.  There are many "marae" ruins (such as the ones we saw on Raiatea) which can be found on the island.  The inhabitants of Bora Bora were fierce warriors who often raided Maupiti (our next stop), Tahaa and Raiatea.

Captain James Cook visited Bora Bora in 1769 and 1777 and in 1896 the island was annexed by France.  In February of 1942, the Americans set a refueling and regrouping base on Bora Bora, and their influence can still be felt today.  It was the Americans that built the road around the island, as well as the airfield that is still present on Motu Mute today.  (The airport is on an island (motu), and the only way to get there is by boat - go figure...you're in Bora Bora!).  By June 1946 the base was closed and the American soldiers left the island.  There are still 8 huge naval guns on the island that were placed here to defend the island against a surprise Japanese attack that never happened.

One of the huge guns still on the island
This shows the whole gun and the bunker in the background
The view from where the guns were located

With our tour of the island under our belts, and another history lesson on the books, we retreated back to the boat.  We also checked out the anchorages on the west side of the island, behind the motu "Topua".  There we found good shelter from the strong winds that had been blowing the last week or so.  We also checked out, and received our international clearance papers from Papeete.

While we were waiting, we were anchored with 4 of our "kid boat friends":  Invictus, Excalibur, Moby (whom we had met in Rangiroa), and Fata Morgana - a new family that Invictus introduced us to.  They have a daughter, Maya, who is 12, so Benjamin and Gaby have a new friend, who speaks English (!!) and they get on famously!  The one night we had a bonfire on the beach:  5 boats:  12 adults (Invictus has friends with them), and 12 kids!  It was awesome, and if I had had an SD card in my camera, I would be able to post the photos I thought I was taking!! (Dave posted a short video of the bonfire in a previous post below).

Dave also got a chance to windsurf after all these years, borrowing a windsurfer from Nicolas from Excalibur.  Excalibur and Moby both had windsurfers and smaller sails for the kids, so one day we had a "kids windsurfing session", which started off great, but then the wind died, unfortunately.  However, it turned into another social event with the adults having drinks on the beach, while the kids just played in the water!  The kids have also been having fun being towed behind the dinghy in our "raft".
Dave windsurfing

It's been 20 years since he last windsurfed - apparently it's like riding a bike!!

More water fun - Dave and Gaby in the dinghy, pulling Ben and their new friend Maya from Fata Morgana

Ben and Maya having fun!

The next morning (yesterday) dawned with the good weather window we had been waiting for, and we took the chance and headed over here to beautiful Maupiti.  We plan to explore this island, and hopefully one more (Mopelia) before leaving the Society Islands behind us.  With fairly decent internet here, I should be able to post some pictures and report on our time here in Maupiti.  One more boat joined us this morning (Excalibur), so now we have 4 of the 5 boat friends that were together in Bora Bora here with us in Maupiti!

Lastly, thanks as always for all the blog comments and emails from everyone with news and good wishes on our journey. We love reading them all!!!! "Maruru"....Polynesian for "thank you"!


Sunset over Bora Bora - Farewell!

Hi from Maupiti

Hi all...just a quick note to say we finally reluctantly left Bora Bora today and sailed over to Maupiti. What an absolutely beautiful place BB was.....but the little we have seen of Maupiti this afternoon indicates this may be even better. It's supposed to be a small Bora Bora, but undeveloped and how Bora Bora was 60 years ago.

We had been waiting for a good weather window to sail over and get through its potentially dangerous pass and got a break today so headed out at 9am. We arrived here at around 2pm and seas and wind were nice....We flew just the spinnaker the whole way. Two of our new boat buddies with kids we had been hanging with (Moby and Fata Morgana) also decided to come today so  the kids have their friends. They both have catamarans (51ft and 38ft respectively). We are all about to go for drinks and pot luck dinner on Fata Morgana so this is just a quick update.

With the 3 of us coming in today, we effectively doubled the boat population here from 3 to 6!  A nice change from our last anchorage in Bora Bora, where we counted 20 boats yesterday!

Our plan is to stay here for a few days or week...or more and start watching for weather windows for the next few legs. We have roughly another 3,000 miles to cover to get to NZL by December so have much fun and adventures lying ahead of us :)

All the best to all following our progress and especially all our love to our families back home!!!!
Kind regards Dave, Guds, Ben and Gaby.

Entering the pass at Maupiti

Starboard side of the pass with lookout!

Saturday, August 27, 2016

Raiatea and Tahaa



After spending a few days in Avea Bay in Huahine, we made the short hop over to Raiatea on August 18th.  We entered the southern most pass and found a deep bay to anchor in.  Luckily, there were mooring buoys and we were able to pick one up, and spend the night there.  In many of the bays around the Society Islands, we have found free mooring buoys, because some of the anchorages are just too deep for a boat to use its own anchor.

Raiatea is home to the site of Marae Taputapuatea, one of the most important religious and historical sites in Polynesia.  Marae are open air temples (and, incidentally, this is what Dave and I stumbled upon in Huahine, when we went on the dinghy ride.  I had mentioned it in my previous post, but at the time, was not completely aware of what we were looking at!).  The marae and open air temples at Taputapuatea on Raiatea were a very short dinghy ride away from our anchorage, so we went there the next morning to explore.  The entire site is a candidate for inclusion on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and it was extremely interesting to learn about the ancient Polynesian culture, and of course, a great school field trip!

Marae at Taputaputea.  The trees you see are sacred trees, as the birds that sat in the trees were considered messengers to the god 'Oro (to whom the marae were dedicated), and they used the bark and wood of the trees to carve their tiki idols

Some of the slabs were over 3 meters (almost 10 feet) tall!

Another view of the marae

Stone Tiki at the marae

View from the Marae site - I couldn't resist...it was just so beautiful!

Gaby found this piece of coral here that looks like a cross.  Quite ironic given the pagan nature of the place! 

After our excursion to the Marae site, we upped anchor and headed to the next bay.  We had heard there was a nice river to explore, so we moved our home and relocated to Baaie Faaroa and picked up another mooring buoy to go and explore the Aoppomau River. As we were getting into the dinghy, we were met by "James", who was on a kayak, and offered to show us the river as his home was up there. We were a little skeptical at first, wondering how much this guided tour was going to cost us, but he never answered that question!  We couldn't really decline, so off we went, James on his kayak, and us following in the dinghy.  Well, what an educational day it turned out to be!  First the ancient temples, and then a lesson on flora and fauna of Polynesia! (primarily Flora...we didn't see too many animals, other than James' dog, whom the kids loved!).  Gaby completed a paper for school entitled "Plants I Learned About Today" after our trip up the river!  She included drawings of the plants, a description, and what the plant was used for (eg: medicinal, decoration etc).

 James never asked for a cent for his time, he was just happy to share his knowledge and show us the river!  This friendliness is what we've come to experience from the locals pretty much wherever we go.  We of course gave him a tip, and bought a big bunch of bananas from him for $5!

The entrance to the river

Up the river

James showed us to a vanilla plantation...here we are with the vanilla pods!

Row, row, row your boat (dinghy) gently down the stream...

The following day we headed over to Tahaa, the next island which shares a reef and lagoon with Raiatea.  We explored a couple of bays and then went to anchor on the reef in 5ft of beautiful, turquoise water.  We were pleasantly surprised to find our friends on Invictus and Excalibur already anchored there!  Invictus and Excalibur are the 2 boats we met in Huahine, and whose kids Ben and Gaby had played with while there (swinging off the side into the water).  Also anchored there was a boat we'd met in Rangiroa (in the Tuamotus), a Lagoon 500 with a Belgian family aboard!  It certainly is a small cruising community after all.  

Invictus ended up hosting a party with all the boats in the anchorage - we left the kids on Cool Runnings and had a great time with 6 other couples on Invictus!  Let me just add that Invictus is carrying about 300 litres of really good red wine, so you can imagine the most excellent party that was had!!!

The next day, Ben and Gaby completed a project that required them to design and build a sailing vessel.  They constructed the "SS Butter" (pronounced "Butar" according to Ben.  The reason for this name is that they used an empty tub of butter as the hull!).  The "SS Butter" was subjected to some sea trials in a pond created in the bean bag by all the rain we had overnight and then we attached a fishing line to it and let it sail off the back of Cool Runnings.  Dave has already posted the video of both of these events.  A great project and "SS Butter" is still alive and well!

Teamwork was required in the construction of the "SS Butter".  No adult help was allowed in the design and construction

The completed "SS Butter" complete with port and starboard lights.  Well done, Ben and Gaby!

Our anchorage in Tahaa.  Site of the launch of the "SS Butter"

She floats!  The "SS Butter" is dwarfed by "Wind Star", the 4 masted cruise ship that we saw in Tahit, Moorea, and now again in Tahaa!
Gabs and mom share a special moment :)  The next day we sailed to the north of the island to a place called "Coral Gardens".  We anchored the boat and then took the dinghy over to a coral reef.  We walked to the top of the motu, and then drifted down with the current over the coral.  Great snorkeling and we saw lots of beautiful fish!  

Our anchorage at the Coral Gardens in Tahaa looking over at Bora Bora

Benjamin enjoying sunset in Tahaa 

One more of the sunset in Tahaa:  next stop:  Bora Bora


Another great day and another beautiful anchorage.  Next stop, Bora Bora!